German designer Isabell de Hillerin hits the mark again with her AW14 collection called “opaque”. de Hillerin describes her inspiration for the collection as “the allure of the unapproachable; imparting subtle, isolated elegance through concealment.” To project a sense of being veiled and enshrouded, de Hillerin pairs transparent fabrics with heavier, more structured textiles. She oscillates between exposing and covering the skin, with deep v necklines and open backs presented next to generous necklines that reach the chin. Skin also peeks through carefully placed cut-outs at the waist and shoulders, some of which are covered in hand-crocheted lattice designs. de Hillerin builds volume through a structured draping technique that makes the garments look like they have been layered without adding bulk. As with the SS14 collection, some of the skirts and dresses feature asymmetric hemlines, while the trousers have a loose cut with a slight taper at the ankles. The color palette consists of neutral black and camel paired with muted plum, medium blue, and an artisan-woven tapestry fabric in blue and rust. This unique tapestry fabric and other folkloric details such as the crochet cutouts are handmade textiles that de Hillerin uses to highlight the unique art of weaving and embroidery in Romania and Moldova. These artisan textiles add a special touch to the garments, and the craftsmanship and color selections of these pieces represent the traditional values, national identity and regional traditions of the artisans. They pair well with the natural and eco-friendly fabrics used in the collections such as silk, wool and Tencel. This season the brand has introduced a small range of accessories, including a jet black bags with striking gold metal detailing and scarves in navy blue and the artisan-woven tapestry fabric. Isabell de Hillerin is a Berlin-based womenswear designer who graduated from the Superior School of Design and Fashion Felicidad Duce in Barcelona. She launched her first collection during the AW10 season, and has become known for her elegantly tailored pieces that feature structured cuts and classic shapes. You can purchase Isabell de Hillerin garments from her online boutique or from various US and European retailers.
Click here to visit the Isabell de Hillerin website.
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