We often have customers asking for help distinguishing between the different washes of jeans. There are plenty to choose from, and without knowing exactly what they are, purchasing jeans can be a confusing, often frustrating experience.
The production process behind every pair of jeans is extremely complicated, involving a variety of different operations depending on the desired look of the finished item. You’ve probably heard of ‘stonewash’, ‘acid wash’ or ‘raw’ denim, but you may not know the difference between them. Our guide to the most popular denim washes explains how they work and their unique characteristics.
Washes
Stonewash
Stonewashing is the process whereby denim is literally washed in a machine along with pumice stones in order to lighten the colour of the fabric and give it a softened, vintage feel. The length of time it is washed for dictates the lightness of the shade. Stonewashing was pioneered by Japanese label Edwin in the early 80s, and is still used almost universally by denim manufacturers around the globe. Stonewashing can be used in the production of other types of denim ‘wash’, such as authentic/classic wash, vintage/antique wash and dirty wash. At Zee & Co we use the terms ‘stonewash’ and ‘super-stonewash’ to refer to classic blue denim, with super-stonewash being at the lighter end of the scale.
Above: Armani Jeans J31 Super Stonewash Jean http://www.zeeandco.co.uk/mens/armani-jeans-j31-super-stonewash-basic-jean.html
Authentic/Classic Wash
This is a term which is often used for traditional blue denim, which has been given a worn-in, aged feel by stonewashing or other processes. The vast majority of denim jeans are produced in authentic wash, which covers a wide scale from fairly dark to light blue denim.
Above: Acne Roc Verakai Jean http://www.zeeandco.co.uk/mens/acne-roc-verakai-jean.html
Bleach Wash
Bleach wash describes very light, faded denim, in any colour.
Above: Nudie Jeans Bleached Slim John Jean http://www.zeeandco.co.uk/mens/nudie-jeans-bleached-john-slim-jean.html
Acid Wash
Acid wash is achieved by treating the denim with chemicals to create an uneven faded appearance. It was a huge hit in the 1980s, and is gradually making a comeback on the fashion scene. Acid wash is a very casual denim, which works best with retro canvas trainers and on-trend t-shirts.
Above: DSquared2 Bleached Cool Guy Jeans http://www.zeeandco.co.uk/mens/dsquared2-bleached-cool-guy-jeans.html
Raw Denim
Raw or indigo denim is created by simply dyeing the fabric, without treating it with any washing or blasting processes. This creates a very dark, solid finish.
Above: Hugo Boss Rinse Maine Jeans http://www.zeeandco.co.uk/mens/hugo-boss-rinse-maine-jeans.html
Rinse Denim
Rinse denim has a similar appearance to raw, except that it has been rinsed once by the manufacturer to remove excess dye and to pre-shrink the fabric.
Above: Armani Jeans J08 Rinse 3D Jean http://www.zeeandco.co.uk/mens/armani-jeans-j08-rinse-3d-jean.html
Vintage and Antique Wash
This refers to the level of ‘aging’ which has been applied to the jeans, with antique being more heavily faded and distressed than vintage. Vintage and antique wash are usually achieved using the stonewashing process.
Above: Edwin Vintage Selvedge Jean http://www.zeeandco.co.uk/mens/edwin-vintage-selvage-jean.html
Coloured Denim
Jeans don’t have to be blue; many brands also produce a wide range of coloured denim jeans, usually in solid colours which have been yarn-dyed (the threads of the fabric are dyed before they are woven, giving it a longer-lasting colour). Coloured jeans are a great choice for the summer, but avoid lighter shades during the autumn/winter season.
Above: Armani Jeans J23 Green Gabardine Jean http://www.zeeandco.co.uk/mens/armani-jeans-j23-green-gabardine-jean.html
Finishes
Many brands use a variety of different finishes to complete the look of their jeans. Labels such as True Religion are known for their hand-finishes, including using sandpaper to strategically soften and age the fabric. Scraping and abrasion are the most common ways in which jeans are hand-finished. Other finishes include paint splatter effects, ‘dirty’ washes using overdyeing techniques, and stitching and embellishments such as patches or studs. Distressed denim is also popular, with torn or thinning areas created using heavy abrasion or simply by slicing the denim.
With designers constantly striving to create new and interesting versions of the classic jean, you can expect the number of washes and finishes available to grow ever larger. At Zee & Co we buy the very best designer jeans from all the latest collections, ensuring that we are among the first on the scene with new denim innovations. For now though, why not take a look at the designer jeans we currently have in stock to find your favourite fit in the right fabric and finish.
Look out for part two of our denim guide, covering the wide range of cuts and fits on our blog page shortly.
By guest blogger Annalie Hopcroft