Spring has finally sprung and it’s time to celebrate! In this week’s Throwback Thursday, we take a look back to the Spring shows that debuted last fall and break down the biggest beauty trends of the season. Did the fashion set get it right? Read on and decide for yourself.
Some see Fashion’s recent MINIMALIST trend as a call-to-arms against the rising number of social media outlets covering the shows. Fashion may be using MINIMALISM as a way of distinguishing the true style stars from the hoards of wannabes peacocking for blogger-cred in the streets. For S/S13 we saw many designers stray away from garish runway shows in lieu of more paired down, subtle turnouts; focusing on luxe fabrics, tailoring and design integrity.
Hairstylists opted for sleek and simple styles to compliment the understated clothes coming down the runway. Deep parts (re: very deep) and low ponytails were the technique of choice for taking these looks from mundane to chic. In the same vain, makeup artists went for a less-is-more approach; the makeup story at Valentino was rumored to be completely based off the natural flush of model Maud Welzen’s cheeks! Some shows even went as far as scrapping makeup altogether in favor of facial massages and other skincare treatments before the shows. Gasp!
HAIR
SEEN AT: Narciso Rodriguez (New York), Gucci (Milan), Jil Sander (Paris)
The minimal trend is great for Spring because it relies on a girl’s natural hair texture and, when done right, takes almost no prep time! But be warned: Minimal hair does not mean messy hair! When it comes to making this trend work it’s all about the details.
A polished ponytail only takes an extra 60 seconds to wrap extra hair around the tie and secure with bobby pins. Another key element is clean lines. I suggest using Dove Style+Care Strength & Shine Flexible Hold Hairspray and a natural bristle brush to create a crisp hairline in the front, sides and along the nape of the neck.
Starworks Artists hairstylist Mark Townsend.
MAKEUP
SEEN AT: Rag & Bone (New York), Marni (Milan), Valentino (Paris)
Makeup is a reflection of the times and, right now, women are putting the color into their wardrobe & less on their face. Women want to look healthy & fresh. For many years we have caked on the makeup and now it’s about a classic look w good features. Granted, we’ll still see a pop of color on the lips and the eyes, but natural beauty has never been more popular than right now.
If you want great skin (and you’re not 19) – it’s starts internally. Water is key to keeping your liver clean (which is where dark circles under the eye come from). Alcohol dehydrates and can make women break out. It even comes down to cleaning your sheets regularly because a dirty pillow case can cause blemishes. If you want perfect skin you need to treat your body well & take care of personal hygiene.
A girl can rock the minimal look easily & it’s fun. Try applying foundation to the skin like a moisturizer. I like to use CHANEL Vitalumiere Aqua, Neutrogena Healthy Skin and Dior Liquid Foundation. First, you take foundation in palm of hand and either mix w a lotion or apply after moisturizer and let it set. Second, take a bronzer and apply to contour of cheek bone, forehead and chin. Then, with a beautiful matte brush, apply small amount to apple of cheek. Nothing should overpower.
SWA makeup artist Nico Guilis
90′s grunge was alive and thriving on the S/S13 runways. Dries Van Noten‘s show was so overwrought with sheer flannel it was hard not to liken it to Marc Jacobs controversial debut (and finale) show for Perry Ellis in the early 90′s. Even though Kurt and Courtney seemed to be on everyone’s mood board this season, beauty pros made conscious efforts to modernize the oft-gritty look; using pomades and braiding/unbraiding hair to create the lived-in effect and swapping out Love’s signature red lipstick for an updated shade of fuchsia. Yes, grunge is back…and she’s all grown up!
HAIR
SEEN AT: Dries Van Noten (Paris), 3.1 Philip Lim (New York), Prada (Milan)
The 90′s grunge look has always been a favorite of mine. Nothing quite says cool like that style. The hair being so effortless, no fuss, allows us to embrace our more natural side, not being afraid of frizz and texture.
Using products like Fekkai Tousled Wave Hairspray, that enhance the hairs natural wave while taming some frizz is the perfect way to create a more polished natural grunge look. Also, loosely braiding the hair while it’s drying, then removing the hair from the braids before it totally dries is the perfect way to enhance the hairs texture and get the 90′s grunge wave.
I recently did a grunge look for Emma Stone on the cover of W Magazine. I love Juergen Teller’s raw aesthetic and knew Emma’s pale blonde color and natural texture would be perfectly complimented by the way he shoots. That real, effortless, raw feel is one of the sexiest looks in my book.
SWA hairstylist Mara Roszak
MAKEUP
SEEN AT: 3.1 Philip Lim (New York), Giles (London), Dries Van Noten (Paris)
One thing that doesn’t get mentioned enough about the 90′s grunge scene is what a great time it was for women. Sonic Youth, The Breeders, PJ Harvey, L7, and even Courtney Love were all bad ass rockers that equaled their male counterparts. They actually played instruments, wrote their music and controlled their own image – quite different from the slickly packaged dance performances, pre-recorded audio tracks and stripper costumes that many of today’s female acts have adopted. The grunge look wasn’t about being overtly sexy, it was about a certain kind of cool that rejected the mainstream “Clueless” ideal.
Seeing grunge fashion come around again feels strange since in the back of my closet there is still a collection of plaid flannels, striped men’s sailor shirts, badly ripped Levi‘s and concert t-shirts worn to transparency. Perhaps it’s resurgence is a response to the overwhelming quest for homogenized perfection, idealized beauty and extreme commercialism that have become the trademarks of this decade? Or maybe it’s just because every generation wishes they had seen the bands of the decade prior to them? Regardless, seize this moment to embrace the grunge aesthetic. Here are some tips:
1: Skip the conditioner, blow dryer and straightening iron in favor of “mussed to the point of tangled” hair. Pair with clean skin, simple winged eye liner and a swipe of nude lipstick for an updated version of the classic 90′s party look.
2: Channel the ideal amount of 90′s angst with tinted moisturizer and a brick red lipstick. Resist the temptation to apply mascara and blush.
3: Consider bangs. The shorter, the better. Also, ditch your hand painted ombre and salon created blond highlights for a bad bleach job, raven black or deep cherry red.
4: Under-eye circles are chic. Embrace yours.
5: Apply a generous amount of black eyeliner BEFORE you go to bed. Wake up, splash water on your face and leave your house. This is the way that 90′s rockers and party animal models used to achieve that perfectly smudged smokey eye.
SWA makeup artist Robin Black
The same way GRUNGE and MINIMALISM represent dual style trends from the 90s, the 60′s revival that overtook the Spring runways can also be broken into two categories: POLISHED and FACTORY GIRL. Models either channelled Jackie or Twiggy. Audrey or Edie. Uptown or Downtown. And, sometimes, a little bit of both.
The POLISHED 60′s trend was most notable at Louis Vuitton, where models descended from escalators in pairs sporting matching headband-adorned bouffants. Vuitton creative director, Marc Jacobs, pioneered the trend three weeks earlier at his namesake runway show when he sent his girls strutting down the runway with platinum mod-inspired cuts. The 60′s FACTORY GIRL element could be seen in the makeup stories at big houses like Fendi, Chanel and Dior where makeup artists made model’s eyes POP! Pun intended.
HAIR
SEEN AT: Louis Vuitton (Paris), Marc Jacobs (New York), Dolce & Gabanna (Milan)
The 60′s represent one of the last eras where women embraced a very ”lady-like” aesthetic, and there was clearly a return to femininity in the Spring shows. I think Twiggy, Edie and Jackie O are definitely some of the strongest icons from this era. Although now, you have women like Lana del Rey and Michelle Williams (with her cropped haircut) who are adopting these styles.
A proper blowout is crucial to achieving the 60′s look. Even though you often tease afterwards, getting the root blown out and the volume in the hair first is essential. You can set the hair in Velcro rollers or heat up the hot rollers if you prefer, it really just depends on your hair type. Simple things like a deep side part with an ear-tuck, or some added volume in the crown will give a 60s feeling to your modern hairstyle without making it too strong of a look.
Personally, I’m a sucker for a modern texture combined with a retro shape. The right volumizer for your hair type is key. I like Leonor Greyl mousse for these looks (although it can sometimes be too heavy for certain hair textures). And a good strong hold hairspray, I use REDKEN 23 Super Strength Finishing Spray and Oribe Superfine Hairspray.
SWA hairstylist Luke Chamberlain
MAKEUP
SEEN AT: Michael Kors (New York), Fendi (Milan), Christian Dior (Paris)
For Spring we saw a lot of shift dresses and clothes with a boyish fit. I think makeup artists wanted to bring out the femininity in the clothes and models. The best way to do that is with a statement eye.
If you’re looking to try this trend at home I would encourage girls to do their homework: look at the runway shows and magazine editorials. Of course, these are going to be a little more stylized, but they’re a great start. Try picking a favorite aspect of a look; the blue eyeshadow, the dramatic cat-eye or the rhinestone appliques and make it your own. You can always tame down a dramatic look with by using eye liner to give it depth. Don’t be afraid of trying the brighter colors or even metallics. I’ve been using rust a lot lately and I think it’s totally having a comeback.
SWA makeup artist Mai Quynh
Check out our AskSWA and get your beauty and style questions answered by our pro team!
- See more at: http://www.starworksartists.com/news/post/name/throwback-thursday-spring-summer-beauty-trends#sthash.LpYZH982.dpuf