2014-06-17



Just barely one year old, this Inman Park staple is still a baby. Yet despite its infancy, several of BoccaLupo’s dishes are already being recognized as among “The Best…” of Atlanta dining. In honor of these rock star dishes, BoccaLupo proudly offers all of its greatest hits in an exciting new “Favorites” menu where Chef Bruce Logue, aka the Prince of pasta, shrinks six of his signature items into a four course tour de force.

One tasting menu isn’t enough for a Prince, though. Logue also offers a purely seasonal pasta tasting. This prix fixe is known to combine unique pastas with the most high-end of foods like musty white truffles from Alba, wild Georgia ramps, and delicately poached duck eggs. Accented by inexpensive wine flights and cocktail pairings, there remains only one decision. Which one do we order? I say get both!

In fact, every couple should add this to their proverbial bucket list of places to dine. BoccaLupo’s two tasting options seamlessly combine into a convivial work of art that showcases timeless classics contrasted by seasonal masterpieces. If sharing is caring, then sharing this dynamic combination of food is, simply put, true love. My friend and avid photographer, Patricia Villafañe, and I decided to take these two tastings head on.

Course One

Corzetti pastas are laboriously hand stamped with intricate designs after being cut into small rounds. The name refers to the Genovino d’oro, an ancient gold coin covered in beautiful reliefs. Lightly sautéed Vidalias and morels sat in the middle. A dusting of grated parmesan and tiny parsley buds finished off this poignant farewell to spring.

The antipasti plate carried smaller versions of three favorites. The “Roman fried” cauliflower had a nutty/buttery aroma and was tossed with fresh mint and capers. No antipasti medley is complete without prosciutto, and this stuff from Iowa is just as good as the original. Piled high on grilled flatbread and topped with house made ricotta and Calabrian chilies, the prosciutto is pleasantly accented with a tangy pineapple mostarda.

By far, my favorite of the three was the grilled octopus, alternated on a skewer with pieces of mortadella. Lightly charred but never the least bit chewy, the octopus is served over a humble stew of shell beans and collards. It is one of Atlanta’s best appetizers, and is arguably the best octopus dish in the city.

Course Two (photo)

The city’s most notorious pasta dish has to be BoccaLupo’s black spaghetti, dyed with squid ink and tossed with hot calabrese sausage. It is bold and spicy whereas the bacon wrapped red shrimp from the other menu were buttery and juicy. They were rested atop two large gnocchi romani and were dotted with a black, squid ink butter sauce. The two different uses of squid ink tied these dishes together as if made for one another. Both went well with a dry, chalky rosé.

Course Three

The Crispy White Lasagna is the richest I have ever tried. Layered with creamy chicken and veal, each portion is pan seared before being dropped on a bed of melted fontina. It came out with the Riverview Farms pork “minute” steak. Pounded out and lightly grilled, the tender pork loin was smothered in jalapeño pesto gravy with pearl shaped fregola pasta and sweet summer squash. A full-bodied, earthy blend from Campania was chosen for these two powerful entrées.

Course Four (photo)

After a brief respite and a shot of espresso, we were ready for dessert. The velvety panna cotta sat in a pool of tart huckleberries, topped with squid ink cookie crumbs. Georgia peaches from Pearson’s Farm were baked with a white chocolate streusel, served hot with a large scoop of ricotta gelato. A drizzle of thyme infused honey surrounded this alamode treat.

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