Put on my blue suede shoes and I boarded the plane. Well, not exactly, but armed with my iPod and Cher’s version of the Mark Cohn hit “Walking in Memphis,” I headed up to the land of the Delta Blues to see exactly what it felt like to walk with my feet ten feet off of Beale.
Unfortunately, I missed the ghost of Elvis but did catch the famous Peabody Hotel ducks. I wasn’t able to locate Justin Timberlake’s house but jammed to the street musicians and performers on Beale Street. Memphis also provided the chance to reflect on our nation’s history and the ongoing struggle for equality with the National Civil Rights Museum. And, of course, I chowed down on some Memphis BBQ.
You see from the outside looking in, one might think Memphis looks poor, but once you look beyond what meets the eye, you find that Memphis is rich in history, music and food.
Key Memphis Sites and Attractions
Both history and music buffs, rejoice. Memphis boasts a stellar lineup of sites and attractions to visit.
First, make sure you check out Graceland. Graceland has several different touring packages, including a $70 VIP tour for the biggest of Elvis fans. Advance ticket purchase is recommended and can be found at elvis.com
After Graceland, check out the legendary Sun Studio. Nicknamed the ‘Birthplace of Rock ‘n’ Roll,’ Sun Studio was the setting to the jam session between Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis and Carl Perkins on December 4, 1956. That day also serves as the story for the hit Broadway play, Million Dollar Quartet.
Other musical sites, tour and attractions include: the W.C. Handy Home and Museum, the Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum, the Stax Museum of American Soul Music and the St. Blues Guitar Workshop.
Memphis also hosts the country’s National Civil Rights Museum, which is a must-visit for any Memphis tourist. The Museum is built around the Lorraine Motel, where Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated in 1968. Currently the National Civil Rights Museum is undergoing renovations but several exhibits chronicling key events in the Civil Rights Movement as well as the assassination of Dr. King remain open. Admission is $10.
Quack, Quack. That’s right, if you’re going to Memphis, you have to check out the Peabody Hotel Ducks. Since the 1930’s, when weary owner and companion left their live decoy ducks in the fountain following a hunting trip, the Peabody Hotel Ducks have been a Peabody tradition. Stars in their own right, the Peabody Ducks have graced the small screen from Oprah to Bert and Ernie and hundreds flock daily at 11 a.m. and 5 p.m. to see the hallowed mallards march the red carpet from Duck Palace into the lobby fountain.
Memphis Neighborhoods
Flanked by the Mississippi River, downtown is by far the most bustling area of Memphis. It’s where you’ll find the Peabody Hotel and at its southern tip, you’ll find the National Civil Rights Museum. And from the Orpheum Theatre, where you can catch the best in Broadway and concerts, to the nightly celebrations of Blues and BBQ on Beale Street, downtown is the hub of Memphis nightlife.
Beale Street is calmer during the day so be sure to check out the “brass note” markers along Beale Street to fully appreciate the area’s rich blues’ history as well as influence. Day or night, B.B. King’s Blues Club and Rum Boogie Café are two hot spots to check out.
If you venture south down Main Street, you’ll arrive at the South Main Arts District, which has evolved over the years as the hushed cousin of Beale Street. You’ll find small boutiques, art galleries as well as lower-key restaurants and clubs.
Although downtown is easily navigable on foot, carry cash and take a ride on the Main Street Trolley that will take you from one end to the other for only $1.
Midtown Memphis plays host to several neighborhoods worth checking out. First, though Overton Park, much like Piedmont Park, is a 342-acre anchor to Midtown. The parks hosts concerts and movies and is also the home to the Memphis Zoo.
Arts fans will want to check out Overton Square, a thriving theatre district with several playhouses and boutique movie theater. And just a mile down Cooper from Overton Square, you’ll find Cooper-Young, the funky neighborhood that boasts the locally-owned Goner Records as well as Burke’s Book Store and several great dining options. On Saturdays, the area hosts the Cooper-Young Community Farmer’s Market.
Memphis LGBT Community
Memphis has a bold LGBT community. Situated in the Cooper Young area of Midtown, you’ll find the Memphis Gay and Lesbian Community Center (MGLCC). With extensive programming, the MGLCC is the center to Memphis LGBT life and the host of their annual OutFlix Festival, which last month celebrated 16 years of LGBT cinema.
Memphis has three area LGBT bars. For a karaoke crowd that is diverse, but mostly lesbian, check out Dru’s Place (1474 Madison Ave.). It’s important to note that Dru’s Place only serves beer but you can bring in your own liquor for a small bottle fee. Also, there is a two-drink minimum so remember that when planning your visit.
For the gay male crowd, head over to what is considered Memphis’ leather bar, The Pumping Station (1382 Poplar Ave.). With an industrial set-up, much like The Cock Pit, the bar is kind of cramped in the front (patrons and pool) but is much roomier than you would believe. Head towards the back with several tables or the outdoor deck complete with a secret space encompassing a tree for a good time.
Finally, if you’re in Memphis to shake it, then head over to Club Spectrum (616 Marshall Ave.). I didn’t get the chance to visit but was told the club hosts drag performances and boasts two dance floors. Expect a cover.
Memphis Food
BBQ—there’s nothing wrong with eating it for breakfast, lunch and dinner. After seeking out the opinion of many, we ended up at Central BBQ, which has many Memphis locations, including downtown and midtown. The line at the midtown location was out the door but the service was fast and the pork was perfectly smoked. Other BBQ recommendations (that we didn’t try) were Pig on Beale and The Bar-B-Q Shop.
Outside of BBQ, Memphis has plenty of diverse food options. In the South Main Arts District, check out the Arcade Restaurant and South of Beale (SOB). Arcade Restaurant serves classic breakfasts and Southern plate lunches that will surely hit the spot. While, SOB was featured on Food Network’s Diners, Drive-ins and Dives and worth dropping in for crafted cocktails and their Duck Fried Rice as well as their yummy Jack and Coke Bread Pudding. Also, make sure you seek out The Cheesecake Corner for some of the most delicious cheesecake I have ever tasted.
Over in Cooper-Young area of Midtown, you can try Sweet Grass for higher-end, low-country cuisine or for meat-free dining check out Imagine Vegan Café. And if you happen to catch a show over in Overton Square, make sure you check out Café 1912.
When to Visit
Memphis is more than likely not recommended during the blazing heat of a September Saturday, but the city boasts a near year-round calendar of festivals and events including its month long cultural celebration, Memphis in May.
Quite possibly the largest of Memphis’ festivals, the annual Memphis in May is a month-long international celebration in conjuncture with the Beale Street Music Festival and World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest. 2014 honors are bestowed upon Panama and Memphis will pay tribute to the cultures and traditions through many events in May. The Beale Street Music Festival was headlined by The Black Keys, Sheryl Crow, Big Boi and more in 2013 and is sure to have a 2014 lineup to rival. Plus, tickets were less than $100 for three days.
The 2014 event takes places May 2-4 and the Cooking Contest takes place May 15-17.
Other notable festivals include: four days of Rock ‘N’ Roll during Goner Fest, held Sept. 26-29, and RiverArtsFest, held Oct. 27-29.
Beyond Memphis
You can easily do Memphis in two and a half days, so you may want to carve out sometime for a half-day trip to Tunica, just 35 minutes or so south of Memphis, to get your gambling fix. With several casinos and concerts, the drive is worth the chance to hit the jackpot. Check upcoming concert listings at tunicatravel.com/entertainment as we missed Diana Ross performing.