Charlie Bond visits the Emilia Romagna region of Italy to sample their many famous foodie delights…
As I step off the plane and into the blazing afternoon sunshine of Bologna, food couldn’t be further from my mind. Yet, this region of Italy, Emilia Romagna, is known as the food valley and for the next few days I’ll be traveling along part of the Via Emilia – the roman road which runs from Rimini to Milan, discovering some of the 41 PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) and PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) products, exclusive to this region.
We begin our culinary discovery in Bologna, a city which boasts the oldest university in the world, and is dubbed the ‘foodie capital of Italy.’ Strolling along the ancient market streets, now adorned with deli shops at every turn, it’s easy to see why this is a foodie’s paradise.
“Bologna has three nicknames,” our guide Marcello, a Bologna native, tells us. “La dotta – the learned one because of the university, la rossa – the red one, referring the historical roof colours, and la grassa – the fat one because of the food.”
While we’re stood admiring the architecture – the Due Torri, – two leaning towers, we spot a popular gelateria.
“Bologna is famous for its gelato,” Marcello begins, although I’m not sure how that sentence ends because I’m already inside, ordering a large scoop of something chocolatey.
Suitably refreshed, we begin wInding our way to where we’ll be dining. It may only be 5pm but, as it turns out, we’ve got a lot to do before we can sit down to eat.
Il Salotto di Penelope is a cooking school, and the brainchild of Valeria and Barbara – two friends who shared a passion for food, and in 2012 decided to go into business together.
Now, they run cookery classes for those looking to learn how to make authentic Italian food.
We quickly discover that there are many misconceptions about Italian food, especially from this region. Valeria explains that garlic isn’t commonly used in sauces, and instead, a soffrito (chopped carrots, onions and celery) are used. She shows us how to chop onions without crying, before moving on to the Ragu – another misunderstood conception.
“We don’t have Bolognese in Bologna,” she says. “We only have Ragu.” The Ragu – made with pork and beef mince, tomato puree, red wine and olive oil is to be served on tagliatelli, because, you also won’t find spaghetti anywhere in Bologna. Valeria then breaks the news to us that this Ragu sauce must be left to cook for three hours. We look at each other hungrily, wishing we’d had a few more scoops of gelato earlier.
Our next few hours are spent making the other elements of our dinner – we’re shown by Valeria how to make Gnocchi with potatoes, then Barbara takes us under her wing and using flour, egg and water we attempt to make pasta in various forms. Despite rolling out my dough with the biggest rolling pin I’ve ever seen, I still need Barbara to help me enlarge it, and when it comes to twisting the tortelloni around my fi ngers I’m a lost cause. Finally though, it’s time for us to feast on the fruits of our labour, which are surprisingly delicious. We try to savour every mouthful, but we’re all so hungry that the three courses of pasta quickly disappear.
As we bid our farewells to Valeria and Barbara and begin the walk back to our hotel, we happen across another gelaterie, Cremeria Funivia, which has queues pouring through its doors and right down the street. You would think, having just consumed three courses of pasta and it being past 11pm we’d saunter past, but, when in Bologna…this time I have two scoops and I’m not even sorry.
Modena is our next stop on our tour of the Via Emilia. We begin in the city centre, climbing the cathederal tower and discovering the bustling food market, before making the short walk to the Museo Enzo Ferrari. Modena is known as the ‘city of engines’, and this museum, detailing the history of Enzo Ferrari and the cars manufactured in Italy makes for a fascinating visit (and a wishlist of future vehicles.)
In England, museum café offerings are usually a soggy sandwich at best, but here, as we sit in the Giallo restaurant, we’re treated to all manner of fine foods. I opt for a slow cooked chicken starter on a bed of spinach, a glass of local white wine and a cured meat salad as my main. Clearly, the waitress doesn’t think we’ve had enough to eat either – as soon as we’ve put down our knives and forks she appears with gelato. I initially refuse, but after about 10 seconds succumb and again, I’m not sorry.
After lunch we head a few miles out to the Casa Museo Pavarotti – Luciano Pavarotti’s last house before he passed away in his bedroom in 2007. Unlike UK museums, where visitors have to spectate from behind rope barriers, here guests are able to have a real insight into the Maestro’s life, opening up drawers to reveal drawings by his daughter and browsing his DVD collection as well as viewing his person correspondence between himself and Celeine Dion, Sting and even Princess Diana.
Next on the agenda is an insight into Modena’s most famed foodstuff – traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena, so we visit the very charming Emilio at Antica Acetaia Villa Bianca, who gives us a tour and tasting at his farm. While balsamic vinegar is available across the world, traditional balsamic vinegar is only made in Modena, and is unique in the way it is made as it is obtained directly from grape juice and not from an alcoholic liquid. It also uses no caramel, unlike other balsamic vinegars.
Emilio takes us up to the top of the house where he stores his barrels, and explains that the vinegar produced is either at least 12 or 25 years old. He gives us the opportunity to taste some just a few years old, which tastes strongly of alchohol, and he also invites us to sample the finest finished product, which is unlike a vinegar and is almost similar to a fortified wine.
Wine, in particular lambrusco (a sweet, sparkling red wine) is also made in this region, and to finish the tour Emilio presents us with glasses of lambrusco he’s produced himself, and some homemade focaccia to accompany. Our trip to Modena may have been short, but definitely sweet.
Our hotel for the night is in Reggio Emilia, the next stop on our tour along the Via Emilia. We drop our bags and shower before heading into the city for the evening, where there’s a food festival with trucks lining the streets and locals sampling cheese, wine and meats. Our own food experience for the evening, however, comes in the form of something slightly more special, for tonight we’re dining at Cafè arti e mestieri, regarded as the best restaurant in the city. Here, we sit outside at an exclusive event with notable public figures, like the minister of agriculture and enjoy risotto, pork and of course, more gelato for dessert.
The next morning we’re faced with an early start to discover another local famous food – Parmigiano Reggiano, or, as we know it, parmesan. We’re on the timetable of the cows if we want to see the cheese being produced, so we make an early expedition to a local factory, where we meet Paulo the owner, whose family have been in parmesan production for many generations.
As we watch milk turn to cheese, Paulo tells us that each wheel is made from 600 litres of milk, produced by 25 cows. The process is quite long – the cheese has to rest for 25 days in salty water and up to two years in storage before it can be sold, but it also has to be tested for hollowness by an expert from the consortium – if it fails due to internal cracks, the famous ‘parmigiano reggiano’ imprint on the outer layers must be scratched off. Paulo is one of 350 parmigiano reggiano producers in the region, but this stuff is so sought after across the world that competition isn’t fierce.
Our next stop is Parma, famed for its ham, and also where Parma Violet sweets originated. We explore the city’s streets and boutiques, before stopping at Le Bistro on the Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi , for what has been dubbed a “light lunch”. This is the first time we’ve had bread, balsamic vinegar and olive oil on the same table so we begin drenching our baguette, only to be faced with an outraged waitress, who explains in broken English that she is angry because we are ruining the taste of our prosciutto. “It is impossible!” She says. “I am angry.” We try to explain that the oil and vinegar is for our bread only, but she doesn’t waver.
Despite causing outrage, the food is delicious – the starter of meat and bread is proceeded by a tomato tagliatelli for myself and a creamy pasta dish with gnocci for the rest of the group. This is not what I would call a light lunch, and when we’re presented with lemon tart and mini doughnuts afterwards I think I may explode.
Full from the heaviest light lunch of all time, we begin our journey into the hills for a visit to Parma ham producer Salumifi cio Ruliano, run by the Montali family. Here, we discover that the ham goes through a lengthy curing process, (the salt rub and massage sound like something you’d expect at a spa rather than a prosciutto producer.) 120,000 legs are stored here at any one time, and before they’re ready to be sold there are many stages of preparation, including being hung in a basement for six months and sealed, before being hung in an upstairs room for a further six months.
The family have prepared some meat for us to taste, but the light lunch is still weighing heavy, and with the heat I can only manage one slice, but that one slice confi rms that this is a good stock of ham.
“For prosciutto to be called Parma ham you must use sea salt,” Marcello explains. “The meat is naturally sweet too, because the pigs are fed whey from the milk.”
Winding back through the hills, full of food, we begin to long for our beds, but it’s not time yet – our next stop is Colli Piacentini for wine tasting at Luretta. Founded in 1988 by Felice Salamini, he and the family-run business has been located at Momeliano castle (Castello di Momeliano) since 2002.
After being greeted by Felice’s wife Carla Asti, we’re taken into the castle cellar to see how the wines are produced. Unlike other vineyards, this one has grape varieties not typically found in this region.
While we gaze out at the sun setting over the fields, Carla pours us wines to try. We begin with the Principessa – a traditional method sparkling white Chardonnay wine. This is followed by a Rose Brut, a sparkling Pinot Noir. Next is the still white – I Nani e le Ballerine, which translates to ‘the dwarf and the ballerina.’ This is a sauvignon and is delicious; light and fruity and perfect for the summer heat. Then we move on to the reds, first the Pantera- a blend of barbera, bonarda and cabernet sauvignon grapes, then the Carabas, which is 100% barbera.
Merry from our sampling, we head a few miles up winding roads through the hills to nearby Gazzola, until we find the place where we will be staying – an actual castle – Castello di Rezzanello. When we arrive there is a wedding in full swing, and the castle’s chatelaine Maddalena Girometta is quick to tell us we won’t be bothered by noise later as the guests aren’t staying – just as well, because the room I’ve been put in, with stunning views out on the scenery is the room often chosen by British brides. After a busy day I’m ready to rest my head on the four poster bed but this isn’t an option – we’re booked for dinner at Al Contesse, a nearby trattoria up on an adjacent hill with equally stunning views.
When we arrive the place is buzzing, with lots of young people sipping wine outside. We’re greeted by Eliza, who is due to get married in two days to the restaurant owner Andrea. His mum is the chef, so this is very much a family business. While pouring our Prosecco, Eliza explains that this is only their second summer, but that business is doing very well.
It’s hours since our ‘light lunch’ but we’re all still full, so we welcome Eliza’s suggestion of smaller and sharing plates.
To start we each have a plate of meat, bread and cheese as well as other small bites like omelette and an anchovy pastry. Then, for our main we’re presented with gnocci, ragu and a warm bean dish, as well as potatoes and rare beef. Spotting a Luretta wine on the list, we share a bottle as we contemplate dessert. While we’re all too full, we do think it only right to sample their delights, so we retire to the outside mezzanine as Eliza brings us a selection of their most popular desserts – tirimasu, chocolate torte and a cherry and almond frangipan.
To accompany Eliza also brings us a plum and a nut liquer. Despite getting bitten to death by mosquitos, we spend a few hours under the stars enjoying the sweet treats and drinks before Eliza offers to drive us back to the castle. For someone who has less than 48 hours before she walks down the aisle, she’s definitely too selfless.
The next morning, castle breakfast is down by the pool. I’m the first to arrive at the table, and I note that, in keeping with the majestic theme, Disney songs are playing. I’m offered prosciutto for breakfast, but politely decline and settle for fruit and pastry as I ponder whether I’m more Cinderella or Snow White.
Our last stop on the trip is a visit to Expo 2015. The event, which happens every five years is this time in Milan, and, to celebrate Italy’s rich food heritage, the theme is ‘feeding the planet, energy for life.’
140 countries are exhibiting along a 1.5km stretch of ground, and, over the five month period, 20million visitors are expected to come to the site and learn more about foods from around the world as well as sustainable living.
The scorching 34°c heat does make the long stretch of path before me seem daunting, but I set off to discover what’s on offer. As a lover of fiery food I head to the spice pavilion, which is filled with information on the origins of spice and how it’s grown. There are parades from different countries, showcasing dance and musical talents, so I stand and watch a marching band and some dancing vegetables(!) before making my way to the tree of live – the one exhibit everyone has advised me to see.
Luckily, as I arrive, a show is beginning, complete with fountains, music and the trunk of the tree becoming adorned with umbrellas and bright colours. Apparently this show is spectacular at night, but it’s just as effective in the daytime – for the second time in just a few hours I feel like I’m in a Disney film.
After a short stop for pizza (when in Italy) I visit the UK pavilion, which has a focus on the production of honey, then head to the supermarket of the future. This is fascinating – the concept is that in 30 years, we will be shopping much more virtually – robots will select frit for us, and we’ll point at products to obtain information from a screen, such as the origin of the wine or the calories in pasta. Partly because I’m fascinated, and partly because the air condition is on full blast, I while away the hours discovering the new ways we’ll be able to shop. I can’t help but wonder, if they’ve managed to create this technology now, will we really have to wait 30 years?
It’s soon time to leave Expo, and Italy, along with its foodie delights altogether. A quote from Luciano Pavarotti defi nitely rings true in the case of the past few days: “one of the very nicest things about life is the way we must regularly stop whatever it is we are doing and devote our attention to eating.” I couldn’t agree more. Happy, hot and full I wave goodbye to the sunshine and this wonderful region of Italy which I’m keen to return to soon. Although next time I’ll put my olive oil and balsamic vinegar on a separate plate…
This trip was hosted and organised by the Emilia Romagna Region Tourist Board – www.emiliaromagnaturismo.it and www.visitviaemilia.it
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