Today I'm finally posting the Summer version of my routine, as a follow-up to my in-depth discussion of the Korean multi-step skincare approach post which includes all my Winter/Spring 2015 products ... all 30 of them.
Even though scorching, sticky summer has arrived, the guidelines of thinking in steps, not products, how to add in or remove additional products, and their order of use have not changed, but as always my skincare has shifted to match the season.
Even though there are quite a few products here, this is a far cry from the 30+ in my Winter/Spring routine here.
However, just as I mentioned in the Winter/Spring routine, I use only a few products per day, and tailor my selections to how my skin is feeling ... but let's be blunt here. I barely use anything these days, because it's TOO DAMN HOT.
As I mentioned in the post: Science Meets K-Beauty Wisdom: How Keeping Cool May Be Good for Your Skin, temperatures here are climbing rapidly and when it gets hot enough that I'm peeling off my office chair with the sound of duct tape being ripped off the roll, I don't want to do a full routine.
In this post:
It's too hot for layers
My AM & PM routines
Cleansers
Actives
Hydrators
Occlusives
Treatments/Sunscreen
So, here's the updated version of what my Summer 2015 routine is looking like these days!
It's too hot for layers
I don't even want to wash my face, I just want to sloth around on the couch and eat frozen fruit. Don't ask me to slather on a full routine, it's too hot for that.
It's hot. Real hot. Damn hot. Texas desert hot. Ugh.
If I give in to the temptation to skip my routine, though, I'm asking for clogged pores, breakouts, and a thick layer of dead skin and grime to build up on my skin.
As I mentioned in my 'Keeping Cool' post linked above, I was worried that come the summer months, my sheet mask usage would slow down as I needed less sustained hydration.
As it turns out, I actually use sheet masks more, not less, than I did when it was cooler, because I'm now too sticky and miserable to do my elaborate routine of toners and serums and ampoules and essences and creams and oils. So what sounds appealing enough to use? Chilled sheet masks.
Image from Science Meets K-Beauty Wisdom: How Keeping Cool May Be Good for Your Skin
I now rely on chilled sheet masks for the 'meat' of my routine, because their cool relief on my hot face is something I actually look forward to and feel motivated in doing.
My AM & PM routines
Are you ready for some realness? Because this is going to be very real. This has been my routine lately:
AM: Cleanse, chilled sheet mask, sunscreen. Mist during the day like a madwoman, try not to melt.
PM: 1st cleanse to remove sunscreen, 2nd cleanse to wash off grime. Chilled sheet mask for blissful relief from the day. Possibly 2nd chilled sheet mask if face heats back up to unbearable levels before bed. Bring mist to bed to periodically spray self down until unconsciousness occurs.
If I do manage to do a more in-depth routine, it's still much shorter than my Winter/Spring version, because that's all my skin needs.
As a quick reminder, I have Dehydrated Combination-Oily skin, so my focus is on re-balancing my skin by adding water, not oil. Last week I posted a Beginner's Korean Skincare Routine for a Dehydrated Combination-Oily skin type, where I almost entirely eschewed traditional rich moisturizers in favour of multiple layers of hydrating products. (Blasphemy!)
But! I am still following the basic approach that I explained in detail in the Korean multi-step skincare approach post, namely:
Cleansers
Actives
Hydrators
Top 3 Summer Sheet Masks
Occlusives
Treatments/Sunscreen/Makeup
So let's jump in to the products I'm currently using and/or testing!
Cleansers
With my sebum production in overdrive during the summer, and the windows open allowing the strong breeze to waft grime into my apartment, proper cleansing is both a necessity and a chore.
A roundup of my first and second cleansers for the summer. L-R: Cremorlab oil cleanser, Bifesta cleansing water, decant of LJH oil cleanser, Su:m37 powder wash, Su:m37 rose stick, and Mizon toner
Cremorlab T.E.N. Cremor Cleansing Gel Oil: Korean, oil cleanser
PM routine: Used as the first cleanser in a PM double cleanse, when I have worn makeup or sunscreen, and I need to remove them before washing my face.
This product was a press sample from Peach & Lily, who contacted me asking if I was interested in trying any of their more unusual and/or Hanbang-y things, and I told them I was interested in Cremorlab, and cleansers. They sent me a Cremorlab cleanser. I see what you did there, P&L! I've already isolation tested it and am now long-term testing it; a full review will be coming in the future. Repurchase? I'm not sure yet, I'm still long-term testing.
Bifesta Cleansing Lotion Bright Up: Japanese, cleansing water
AM routine: Used in the mornings when I feel too lazy or sensitive to use a foaming cleanser; I just soak a cotton square, wipe down my face, and roll out/on to the next step.
I purchased this in a Sasa haul which I um, have not yet posted about. Someday I will, hopefully before this product is all gone, as I'm already at least a third, almost half, way through it. By the way, some people use cleansing waters to remove makeup and sunscreen instead of needing an oil cleanser, but I have yet to meet a cleansing water that is up to the job for me. Repurchase? Not sure, still long-term testing this too.
Leejiham (LJH) Dr's Care Cleansing Oil: Korean, oil cleanser (in a decant size)
PM routine: Used as the first cleanser to remove makeup/sunscreen, and occasional oil massage to loosen grit from my pores, before following up with a second cleanser.
This decant was a gift from Tracy at fanserviced-b, who sent it to me as a possible solution for my-skin-which-hates-all-oil-cleansers problem, and to my surprise, my skin loves it. I have a full size from Koreadepart that is somewhere between here and California right now. You can read Tracy's review of the Dr's Care Cleansing Oil here. Repurchase? Oh baby. Get in my cart, get in my mailbox, get on my face. Now.
Su:m37 White Award Enzyme Powder Wash: Korean, powder cleanser (reviewed)
Su:m37 Powder Wash: so many packets
AM/PM routine: Used as my AM cleanser if I feel I need the oomph of a foaming cleanser. Used in the PM as my sole cleanser if I did not wear makeup or sunscreen, or as the 2nd cleanser in a double cleanse.
Purchased from Korean shopping site 11st, and I've made a screenshot guide to using it here. It's actually all packets, and I decant a few packets at a time into a re-purposed container from another powder wash that was too high in pH, This one is pH 5.5, and smells ... well, check out the review to hear me gush about it. Mmmm. Repurchase? I already have; I tore through 15 uses of this in sample sizes and splurged for the full size.
Su:m37 Miracle Rose Cleansing Stick: Korean, foaming cleanser (reviewed)
I still love you, Su:m37 MRCS
AM/PM routine: Like the powder wash, this is my other AM/PM cleanser, used exactly the same way.
I purchased this from ... oh man. Uh, I have bought 4 of these to date and I cannot remember where I got this one from. But it's now available on Amazon prime!
I tend to easily be bored with products, so switching between the powder wash and the rose stick keeps the spark in our romance alive. Repurchase? Like clockwork. Like I said ... 4 tubes.
Mizon AHA/BHA Daily Clean Toner: Korean, cleansing toner (also pH-adjusting) (reviewed)
8 toners enter, 3.25 leave
AM/PM routine: Used in the AM on a cotton pad like a cleansing water, or to pH adjust my face before actives. In the PM, it's solely a pH-adjusting toner after cleansing.
As you can see from this image that has many, many empties and 3.25 bottles left, this stuff is my jam. It's back in production but with no release date, according to the message Peach & Lily left on fanserviced-b's Instagram. Thank goodness, because I have been scrounging this toner from anywhere I can find it; this image has 2 I purchased from Peach & Lily and 1.25 I purchased from Urban Outfitters, of all places. Repurchase? I think this photo speaks for itself!
I need my pH-adjusting toner, and the Cosrx AHA / BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner was a dud, because I have a lot of actives in my routine no matter the season. For more info, check out my post on Putting your products in order, including pH dependent acids.
Actives
Actives have eclipsed all other skincare in my life; they're the heavy hitters with a scientific pedigree that do most of the actual work when it comes to skin concerns. The serums, essences, ampoules, etc, are just cheering the actives onward to new skin triumphs.
From L-R: Mizon toner, Uniapharm azelaic acid, Cosrx BHA, Mizon AHA, Cosrx A-Sol
Mizon AHA/BHA Daily Clean Toner: Korean, pH-adjusting toner (also cleansing) (reviewed)
AM/PM routine: I can't wait around in the dry desert for my face to naturally pH-adjust after cleansing, so if I do actives, I use this toner to rapidly readjust my skin and be ready to rumble.
Therefore, this product appears twice because I sometimes use it as a cleansing water, but mostly as a pH-adjusting toner. Repurchase? See above.
Uniapharm Acne-Derm: Polish, azelaic acid cream chemical exfoliant
PM routine: I use this 3 times a week, because it's like bringing my pores to a bar brawl ... after 10 shots of tequila.
I purchased this from a friend in the UK; she had an extra tube and offered to send it my way. This is my first azelaic acid product, and it's intense. So intense. Repurchase? I'll let you know in 6 months when it's finished beating my misbehaving skin into submission.
Cosrx BHA Blackhead Power Liquid: Korean, BHA chemical exfoliant
Four bottles, two empty.
AM/PM routine: I used to use this 2x a day, but since azelaic acid came roaring into my life and onto my epidermis, I have been using this more sparingly.
I purchased this particular bottle from Jolse (post is here), and as you can see from the photo, it's a staple product in my lineup. Repurchase? In sets of two at a time, no less.
Mizon AHA 8% Peeling Serum: Korean, AHA chemical exfoliant
PM routine: Before The Days of Azelaic Acid, I would use this 2-3x a week. Now it's once a week, and only if I feel like I'm getting a lot of dead skin build-up or I notice closed comedones that need to be brought to a head.
I purchased this bottle from ... nope, I forget. This is my 4th or 5th bottle, so I can't remember. Probably RoseRoseShop, since they have free shipping on Mizon with a $2.50 tracking number per order. Repurchase? Many, many times.
Cosrx Natural BHA Skin Returning A-Sol: Korean, Propolis spot treatment
Left: new bottle, right: old bottle
AM/PM routine: Before The Days of Azelaic Acid, used 2x a day. Now used when my skin staggers out from of the alleyway after being mugged by the azelaic acid, but still puts up its fists and doggedly insists that it's ready for more.
Also purchased from Jolse. Although this product does contain BHA and AHA, it's in such small quantities that it's not an exfoliant. There are still acne-fighting benefits, though, and I use it as a preventative treatment all over my 'trouble' areas. Repurchase? I already have, photo evidence above. ;)
Hydrators
Although I have two serums and an ampoule pictured here, don't be fooled; as I mentioned above, it's been all chilled sheet masks all the time lately, for the most part. As you can see in my stash spreadsheet, I have a lot of sheet masks.
From L-R: Cremorlab mist, Mizon mist, Sooryehan serum (top) LJH essence (bottom) LJH ampoule.
Sheet masks, from top, are: LJH Tea Tree, Lovemore Pearl Barley & Milk, Evercos 행인 (Prunus armeniaca)
Cremorlab Mineral Water Mist: Korean, facial mist
AM/PM/All Day: In the morning or evening after actives, or between steps. Before sheet masks. After sheet masks. On my cushion puff before applying makeup. Before, during, and after conference calls. In the afternoon. On a Tuesday. On a day of the week other than Tuesday. Like Ahjumma Daesung, anytime I feel physically or mentally heated.
I purchased this during a Peach & Lily sale, because I have a serious lust for Cremorlab in general, so I'm on a mission to determine if it lives up to the hype/mystique. Repurchase? Not this type, but I have my eye on some of the other Cremorlab mists.
Sometimes you just need to cool off before replying to a work email, you know?
Mizon Snail Repair Hydro Mist: Korean, facial mist
All the snails. All of them.
AM/PM/All Day: See above Ode to Facial Mists.
Purchased from, possibly, Urban Outfitters because I was frantically buying the Mizon AHA BHA toners during their sale and I needed another product for free shipping?
I'd been trying to buy it for ages, but it kept getting refunded/sold out. Repurchase? Yep. Just not from Urban Outfitters, unless they have a toner windfall and I need to shovel something into my cart.
Leejiham (LJH) Tea Tree 90 Essence: Korean, essence/serum
AM/PM routine: If I can bear to put on only one serum, this one is it, up to 2x a day.
Going to quote my Winter/Spring snippet for this: This is called an 'essence' but it's really more of a serum consistency, and it's glorious. I grabbed this after reading fanserviced's review, and even though she's broken up with Memebox, it's readily available in a few places online and I've bought 3 4 bottles of it so far. It's nothing like the harsh 'tea tree' products of my youth; this is a light, refreshing, gentle serum that makes my skin happy. Repurchase? Oh yes, several times.
Sooryehan Hyo Biyeon Concentrated Brightening Essence: Korean, essence/serum
My old camera saw the world through
rose-coloured glasses; bottle is blue
AM/PM routine: If I feel up to putting on a second serum or I'm trying to water bomb my face before putting on a sheet mask, up to 2x a day.
I purchased this from Avecko (post is here) and it seems to be lasting forever. It's supposedly only 30ml but must have some sort of bottomless hex on it because I've been using it for months and it's still not empty. Repurchase? No, I have another serum I'm waiting to start once I finally finish this one.
Leejiham (LJH) Vita Propolis Ampoule: Korean, ampoule
AM/PM routine: I put a drop or two (or three) into one of my regular serums, if I use them
Purchased in Hong Kong via 'kind friend on vacation there' proxy. She snagged me some goodies from Japan as well, you can read the post here. Repurchase? I already have.
As you know, though, most of my hydration comes from chilled sheet masks. Now for my top 3 sheet mask picks for summer!
Top 3 Summer Sheet Masks
#3: Leejiham (LJH) Tea Tree Facial Mask Sheet: 4.5/5 Stars.
Mmm, delicious acne-soothing tea tree essence.
Tracy of Fanserviced-b tells me that the LJH tea tree essence that we both love actually has its roots in this sheet mask; K-Beauty legend has it that these sheet masks were so popular that a serum version was made.
Tea tree essence, as opposed to tea tree oil, is gentle, soothing, and great for calming down blemishes. I purchased these from Avecko, but they may be available elsewhere. Repurchase? Heck yes.
#2: Lovemore Pearl Barley & Milk Smoothing Mask Sheet: 4.5/5 Stars
I hate barley, but I love this mask.
Lovemore (Love More? LoveMore?) masks have been all the rage lately. These Taiwanese masks are made of silk, not cotton, so the mask sheet is incredibly thin, pliant, and effortlessly shapes to everyone's face.
In fact, if I hadn't already experienced this phenomenon with my #1 mask pick, I would have been no doubt blown away by the revolutionary weightless feeling and ultra-fitted revelation that is the Lovemore silk masks. All 4 (?) types of the Lovemore silk masks are great but this one smells so good that it's a clear winner; it smells like a cross between sweetened oatmeal and rice pudding. Mmm. Repurchase? Yes, please.
#1 Sheet Mask Pick: Evercos 행인 - Prunus armeniaca
These have now eclipsed my Winter/Spring HG mask, the Mediental Balhyo Jinjeong Troubled Skin Healing Mask, because my summer skin just doesn't need the same mega hydration bomb that my winter skin does.
Evercos masks are my summer favourites, because although they are slightly thicker than the Lovemore silk masks, they cling just as well and are just as comfortable, but with the added perk of much, much more hydration.
The Lovemore masks dry out quite quickly in comparison, but my Evercos Hanbang masks continue to bathe my face in cool hydration for 20-30 minutes, bringing me relief and the soothing scent of traditional Korean medicinal herbs.
The Prunus armeniaca are my favourite out of the 6 types, but all of them are excellent. I have purchased them from Avecko, and from the Korean shopping site 11st; the screenshot guide to using 11st is here. Repurchase? Every chance I get. I want my mask collection to be 80% Evercos and then the rest be a mix of Lovemore, LJH tea tree, and some wacky stuff for kicks.
Occlusives
Rarely and sparingly used, but if I do, these are it:
Left: Mizon Snail Gel. Right: Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream
Yep, just two.
Mizon Multi Function Formula Snail Recovery Gel Cream: Korean, gel moisturizer (reviewed)
AM/PM routine: Up to 2x a day, but in actuality more like 1-2x a week, if that.
Purchased from RoseRoseShop most likely, but I've bought 15+ tubes in my day so I'm a little fuzzy on where they're all from at this point.
I rarely feel the need for occlusives once my hydrating steps are done, but if I want to seal things in without I feel like I need to seal in my hydrating steps but my skin doesn't want anything heavy or rich. Repurchase? There will always be a tube in my stash, no matter the season.
Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream: Korean, cream (reviewed)
Since reviewing this (then) unknown
product, it's popping up everywhere
and I couldn't be happier about it!
AM/PM routine: I was afraid that I wouldn't be able to use this once the weather warmed up, but even when used sparingly, this cream wraps my skin in hydration.
Purchased from Avecko, although it's now available from two ebay sellers and either BeautyNetKorea or KoreaDepart. Repurchase? Already on my second jar.
Treatments/Sunscreen/Makeup
I'm eschewing treatments like clay masks while my skin is in the grip of terror azelaic acid, and it's too hot for things like sleeping packs. Instead, I've decided to include my current makeup obsession. Sunscreen is more important than ever, of course!
Left: Sulwhasoo cushion. Right: Shigaisen sunscreen.
Sulwhasoo Perfecting Cushion, Limited Edition Peony case, with Sulwhasoo Perfecting Brightening Cushion insert in #17: Korean, cushion foundation
AM routine: If I wear base makeup, this is it. So Hanbang-y. So ... actually, I'll save the torrid descriptions for the future review.
Purchased from 11st, as part of the haul I used to make the guide linked above. Sadly, this shade is a bit too dark for me, as long as I blend it down my neck and don't wear a top with a low neckline, it's not too obvious. Repurchase? I am going to try to see if I can get this in #13, but thankfully now that I have the case, I can just buy refill inserts and pop them in.
Shigaisen Yohou UV Cream SPF50+/PA++++: Japanese, sunscreen
Proudly labelled non-chemical
AM routine: If I have open windows, or go outside during the day, I wear sunscreen. If I lurk in my office with the blinds closed like a DIY batcave, I skip it.
Purchased from Rakuten (post is here), as physical-only sunscreens are hard to come by. Repurchase? Not unless I can't find anything better; the hunt for non-chemical sunscreens continues.
Not included: the various eye, brow, lip, and cheek products that I might wear, as often I will just pat on a light later of the cushion to even out my skin tone and then head out on errands, etc, without any additional makeup.
If anyone in the grocery store is traumatized by my naked makeup look, well, the wine and beer section is right nearby; I am sure they'll cope.
Final Thoughts
Even if the season has changed, and the temperament of your skin with it, the mantra of listen to your skin remains the same. Be prepared to adapt your routine to whatever skin is asking for in that moment, and consider taking another look at what your skin actually needs.
All the best,
-Cat
**Disclaimer: All products reviewed/mentioned, unless expressly stated to be press samples, which were provided for honest review, are 100% purchased with my own money; regardless of their origin, my opinions are entirely my own.