What do we know about perfume? And why Angelina Jolie started a law suit - The history of perfume goes way back into history. There are several theories about the history of perfume, the majority assumes that it is originated in Egypt.Although there are indications that perfume may have been originated in Greece and Arabia. The oldest perfumes have been found in tombs in Egypt from the pre dynastic period (before 3100 BC.) The perfumes were made from resin of conifers trees and vegetable fats.With this knowledge, we discuss the history of perfume as if the origin is indeed Egypt. Scientific evidence is never delivered and it is likely that this will not happen in the near future.In Egypt, aromatic substances played a major and where used in two different ways: by combustion in the form of balms and ointments.The ingredients were dipped in oil or fat (effleurage) or were heated together (maceration). Sometimes it took over a year before some complex mixtures were ready. In many temples perfumes were made in special workshops. Hieroglyphs and recipes are found in Edfou and Philae. The preparations became more complex over time. A famous preparation is the Kyphi. This contains the main ingredients: myrrh – mastic – juniper – Fenugreek – pistachio – almond nature, these were first pulverized and then sieved. This powder was mixed with wine and boiled and later mixed with honey and pine resins. As distillation with pure alcohol was unknown, they used vegetable oil or animal fat to absorb the scent of plants or resin, then dyes and medicinal agents where added. The recipes of this are again found in temples of Edfu and Dendera, but anyone who tries to create or to make this recipe will fail. After searching the internet it has shown that with today’s technology some of today’s perfumes are very close to the origin. The fragrance is Shiloh by Hors La Monde. (Angelina Jolie had a lawsuit regarding the name Shiloh – name of her daughter – but has subsequently withdrawn because the name of the perfume existed two years before her daughter was born). In Egypt, perfumes and ointments where used in many rituals. The gods were considered as particularly fragrant beings, whose divine attributes were reflected in perfumes. Fragrances had also a protective function, sweet scents warded off evil and strong perfumes were used in funeral rites bringing the dead back to life. In the mummification fragrance ingredients were used to obscure dissolution, the ointment was kept in pots or vases made of alabaster, porcelain, and stone. Later glass bottles, jugs, jars and vases were used. In 1300 BC, perfume was recommended to the army’s chariots and soldiers they were anoint with perfumed oils, this was mostly prior to a visit to the pharaoh. In Sparta perfume was prohibited because of the extreme smell. In 361 BC The Spartan king Agesilaus left an Egyptian banquet because he felt that the excessive use of perfumes was decadent and effeminate. The Greeks started to use perfume on a daily base, for bath and as body lotion. In the 8th century BC, trading around the Mediterranean began to flourish. The Phoenicians were the great navigators. Greece cities where established along the coasts from the Black sea until France, and the exchange of products, ingredients, people and technologies began, the shapes of the bottles, for each country or culture came in different shapes and sizes. For Egypt – god Hapi, long eared hedgehog. For Greece – aryballoi, a helmeted head, head of Heracles and for Middle East – hybrid creatures. These objects were found on the islands of Rhodes, Samos, Naukratis Greco-Egyptian city of the Nile Delta. The distribution of these with or without content-filled bottles suggests that there was a flourishing trade in perfume. Rhodes has played an important role in the production of perfume. Perfume in the time of Alexander the Great. The Persian Empire was conquered by Alexander the Great, from 334 to 323 BC. It covers an area of Asia Minor (Anatolia), Egypt, the near and Middle East and North India. The new trade routes were one of the main reasons for the victories of Alexander the Great, and with this the flavors of the Greek and Western world. The raw materials from Asia and Africa are trade in very expensive bottles. New plants and herbs such as lemon grass, bergamot, ginger and many variations of cinnamon appear over whole Europe. The “Noses” In Roman times several terms for perfumers were used, they were called “the Community”. Unguentarius, perfume seller Seplasiarius (of Seplasia, perfume market town Capua), seller of drugs, drugstore; Thurarius, incense seller; Pigmentarius, trader in dyes . Some of those famous perfumers are: Deinias from Egypt, Megallos from Sicily, and Niceros Cosmus , fragrance consisting rosewater saffron, the developed what was considered to be very fashionable in the 1st century AD. The development of the perfume Until about the 12th century there is little to no change in the perfume. Only when the perfume develops into as we know now, this is due to the Arabs, who developed the distillation technique. Incense and myrrh remained one of the most important ingredients. The hygienic aspect and the temptation of perfume became increasingly valued. Houses and wigs were sprinkled with perfume. Also a new perfume bottle is developed. The Pomander. This was a sphere, it consisted several boxes with holes. The boxes were filled with Amber, resin, musk and perfumed oils. Soon they thought the oils had therapeutic powers that could root out the plague and other epidemics, it would strengthen the female organs and increase the male potency. More spices where traded and discovered. Venice was of great importance and soon it became the perfume capital. Marco Polo brought herbs like pepper, nutmeg and cloves from China, Malaysia, India and Ceylon. In the second half of the 14th century perfume became liquid and was made from alcohol and essential oils and was named “cologne”. After the discovery of America, Venice was no longer the perfume capital. The spices were enhanced with vanilla, cocoa, tobacco and cinnamon, introduced in the perfume industry by Portugal, Spain and the Netherlands in the 15th century. They watched over the production sites and improved farming techniques. The 17th century was a highlight for perfume, everyone was obsessed with perfume. It was used to cover up odors because water was seen as a distributor of the plaque and other diseases. Around the 18th century, the development of Eau de Cologne brought the world of perfume in full speed. It was used in bath water, in wine, this refreshing water consisted mainly neroli (orange blossom) bergamot, rosemary and lemon. Soon it got the name “4711″ la véritable eau de Cologne. Today’s Perfume The function of perfume is not only the fragrance; it is an essential part of our self-consciousness. Perfume is a fashion accessory, it is hard to imagine a society without perfume. In Previous years it was normal that a new fragrance was launched once in a few years but recently all brands bring new products on the market almost every year. The competition is high and as an A-brand you don’t want to stay behind. The total collection of scents expands rapidly and because stores are limited in the amount of types of perfume that they can sell, you’ll see why more and more old scents disappear. Besides perfumes for adults you also see an increase in perfumes for specific targeted groups such as children and animals. A collection of the new fragrances to be launched in 2013 are; Adam Levine 222 by Adam Levine (May) Anna Sui La Vie de Bohème Balenciaga L’Eau Rose (March) Beyoncé Pulse NYC (January) Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta Eau Légère (February) Bruno Banani Dangerous Woman (?) Burberry Body Tender (early 2013) Calvin Klein Dark Obsession for men (?) Chloé See by Chloé (February) Chopard Happy Spirit Bouquet d’Amour (February) Christian Dior Hypnotic Poison Eau Secrète (January) Christian Siriano debut fragrance (Fall) Dolce & Gabbana The One Desire (January) Donna Karan DKNY City for Women & DKNY City for Men (January) Elizabeth & James (Olsen twins) debut fragrance (March) Ermenegildo Zegna Zegna Uomo (Spring) Esprit Your Life (?) Ghost Moonlight (February) Giorgio Armani Eau Pour Homme & Eau de Nuit Givenchy fragrance for men fronted Simon Baker (Spring) Gucci Gucci Museo Forever Now (early 2013) Gucci Guilty Black & Guilty Black Pour Homme (February) Hanae Mori new women’s pillar (Fall) Heidi Klum Surprise (February) Jean Paul Gaultier Le Beau Male (February) Jo Malone Sugar & Spice collection (March) Lalique Satine (?) Lanvin Marry Me à la Folie (February) L’Artisan Parfumeur Caligna (Spring) L’Occitane Spring Cherry (February) Maison Francis Kurkdjian flanker (May) Maison Francis Kurkdjian new fragrance (September) Marc Jacobs Sunshine Editions (February) Molton Brown Mahina (February) Nina Ricci Nina L’Eau (January) Nine West Love Fury Kiss (early 2013) One Direction debut scent (Fall) Playboy Play It Pin Up (?) Pomellato debut fragrance (ICR-ITF Group, 2013) Repetto debut fragrance (with InterParfums, 2013) Roberto Cavalli Acqua (?) Roberto Cavalli Just Cavalli (February 2013) Salvatore Ferragamo Acqua Essenziale (February 2013) Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin (February 2013) Six Scents Series 4 (?) Tommy Bahama scent for men (early 2013) Tory Burch debut fragrance (2013) Valentino Valentina Acqua Floreale (January) Yardley Polaire (March) Yves Rocher Ambre Noir (January) Yves Rocher FlowerParty by Night (January)
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