By Xavier Aubut
Sometimes getting down the summit is harder than reaching it. It turned out to be our case, with foggy conditions reached its climax as we were trying to locate the base camp. Luckily after a few hours of wet and cold search we managed to reach it, less than thirty minutes before sunset. We truly were a bunch a happy campers by then!
Morale was high – we were starting the final stretch of our journey, and after successfully reaching Madagascar’s highest summit, the west coast was still attainable. We were hoping for a smooth downhill to the beach, but inevitably dreams were crushed and epic arduous trekking prevailed! The last days were met with more ups and downs, river crossings, narrow ledge walking and hacking that we could have possibly imagined. But isn’t this what it is all about? A real physical and mental challenge from start to finish; an adventure you will never forget. There was more jungle to tackle, more river crossings, swamp marches and several long days camping wherever we could and barely having time to wash our socks, but on the final few days- just as we had given up our search for the elusive lemur we were finally treated to sightings of several groups- swinging through the trees and peering down on us- the spectacle below.
On the final day we were a full day behind schedule and decisions had to be made if we were to reach our ultimate goal of crossing the landmasson foot. Some chose to take up the opportunity of a rickety old car to make it to the coast in order to enjoy at least a bit of time relaxing on the beach, but 4 of the team decided to continue on foot all the way to the coast. It was to be one of the hardest things we ever did. After 17 days of solid walking- often for 12 hours a day we were to attempt 93 km in just one final push. Wearing only sandals (since we anticipated several river crossings and swollen feet) the team woke up at 2am and set off on the epic final push. It took 12 hours to reach the town of Ambanja- the first proper habitation we had seen in 3 weeks! Delighted we ate the most delicious lunch I can remember and filled ourselves up with fizzy drinks and sugar before continuing a further 25 km to the port of Ankify by 21:30- it had taken 18 and we were bruised and battered, but incredibly happy. It wasn’t quite the end we had anticipated- running into the beautiful sea across a sandy beach- since it was pitch black and we were at a rather grubby port but still we had made it- and better still we had enough time to enjoy a day on the beach with the rest of the group ion Nosy Be- the tourist capital of Madagascar.
The objectives had been reached: to reach Maromokotro’s summit – the highest peak in Madagascar and to cross the world’s fourth largest island from east to west entirely by foot.
One of the key takeaways of this unique adventure is your chance to meet incredible people you wouldn’t have come across otherwise; especially people from Madagascar. Max, 29-years old, was our local guide. He was our eyes, our voice and ears all along this great voyage. He never stopped; he worked while we rested and worked even more while we slept. In three weeks we only saw him tired once – after the 93km /16 hours walk! Max also became the first Malagasy on record to cross his island from east to west on foot. It wouldn’t have been possible without him. I raise my glass to Max – and cheers to the other eighteen courageous and brave guides and porters!
Madagascar is one of those countries where travelling is really different; the food, the smell, the customs, the disorganized organization, theconstant negotiations, the incredible resourcefulness of its people. Did you ever think of using an unripe banana to patch a leaking radiator? Why not use a 2-gallon cooking oil receptacle as your car’s new gas tank? That is why I became so fond of going to such places; you literally have no reference whatsoever. You know you are nowhere near home and you know you will take experiences home with you to treasure for life!.
I can’t wait to set off on another such adventure.
And for a final conclusion – A few tips for would-be trekkers in Madagascar:
When asking a Malagasy – everything is 5 minutes or a kilometer away – but it’s not, its way further. Malagasy have a different concept of time and distance.
Yes, there will be river crossings – so just get your boots wet and carry on!
Yes, there will ups and downs. Madagascar is not flat.
When you think tomorrow will be easier than the previous day – it will not.
No, French Army maps from the 1960s are not accurate.
You think you are physically fit – you are not. Porters are. They don’t need shoes, clothing, or sleep and yet they still will be faster than you.
ALEFA !
PS: Massive round of applause to the highly professional team at Secret Compass. Lev, Ali, Kate and Si. Thanks for being so good at what you do!