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This is the most comprehensive information I’ve seen for finding a lost dog.
It was posted on Facebook and the author chose not to identify himself/herself and said it is “copyright-free” so feel free to share it. I added the illustrations.
The Missing Pet Partnership in Kent has additional information like how to make a lost dog poster and how lost dogs behave.
You can also check out the Seattle DogSpot website for the First Five Things to Do When You Realize You Dog is Lost.
Here’s the information. FYI, some of the writing is tongue-in-cheek and may not be your taste although it does adds a little humor to a stressful topic.
Image from Missing Pet Partnership.
TIPS for FINDING a LOST DOG
CHECK HOME FIRST, all around and under your house, all outbuildings: tool sheds, garage, pump house, garden shed, closets, cupboards and rooms you don’t usually use. NEVER ASSUME! Ask your neighbors if you can check their sheds and garages. Use a flashlight for dark areas, its light can reflect from eyes (esp useful for hiding cats). Leave the gate open, turn off the Invisible Fence, he may come back after dark.
TAKE THE TIME TO WRITE A DECENT AD: “Lost male dog, Seattle” just doesn’t cut it; if you want the dog back, you actually have to spend more than 5 seconds on it. At this moment in time, Craigslist Lost & Found has 416 ads; 132 of them are in Seattle, 100 of them are for dogs, and 95 of them are male — some people may think if you can’t produce something better than a 4-word notice, you’re too dumb to own this nice animal, so they might as well keep it. Too bad, so sad.
BREED: Some people only know common breeds. If yours has more than one name, put down all of them. Borzoi + Russian Wolfhound. Give a description (Saluki: “tall, slim like a Greyhound, mostly a short coat, but longer hair on the ears, belly, tail and fringes on the backs of the legs”).
For uncommon breeds, perhaps reference a more common breed or mix. A Havanese looks like a cockapoo. A Belgian Tervuren looks like a Shepherd/Collie mix. People see Belgian Malinois and think they’re German Shepherds. There are three sizes of Schnauzers. Some breeds look like mutts and crosses, so you’d best say so.
SPELL IT RIGHT! Ask Google. Misspellings can cause the finder to skip over your ad.
MIXED BREEDS: Call it what it looks like, not silly “designer” breed names. It’s not a Pugon, it’s a Pug/Boston mix. Make it easy for the finder.
USE EXTRA KEY WORDS FOR THE SEARCH ENGINE TO GRAB: Just list them at the bottom of your ad, anything that you think someone might possibly do a search on that didn’t seem to fit in the body of your ad. Include possible misspellings: pit bull/pitbull; Lab/Labrador; Afghan/afgan Chihuahua/Chiwawa/Chewawa; Sheepdog/Shepherd/Shepard/Sheperd; Shih Tsu/Shitzoo/ Shitzu; Airedale/Airdale; Malamute/Siberian/sled dog/husky type/northern breed; Bichon/Bishon/ Bison; Bluetick/Blue tick/coonhound; Bullmastiff/Bull mastiff;Dachshund/Dachshound/Dashound/ Doxon; Chesapeake/Chesapeek etc. If yours is a pit breed like an AmStaff, is part pit, or just looks like it might be pit, include pit bull in your ad. If you’re doing a search, some sites will accept partial words like ‘Chi’ for the full word ‘Chihuahua’, others won’t – Craigslist won’t, so try both.
NO ACRONYMS!
NO TEXTING ABBREVIATIONS! Spell it out, use punctuation. People just won’t wade through a garbled, run-on 500-word acronym-filled sentence. Make it easy for the finder who is feeding your pet in his kitchen.
COLOR: Indicate color simply. Black, brown, tri-color (black, brown & white), gold, red, white, gray. No one but a breed fancier knows what blenheim, merle, harlequin, pied, wild boar, or roan mean.
Some people list Tabby cats as “gray with white feet”, which they aren’t. They are either brown with black stripes, or gray with black stripes, or light gray with dark gray stripes, with and without white trim. If you aren’t sure, ask someone else who knows your cat what color it is.
SEX: More people than you would expect have trouble telling if an animal is male or female. Keep this in mind when you’re searching the Lost & Found lists, esp with cats. If everything else sounds right, just assume the finder isn’t sure on sex and contact them.
AGE: keep it simple: 3 months, 5 years, gray on muzzle, arthritis, can barely walk. No one cares about exactness, close is good enough. And don’t confuse people by calling a big young dog a “puppy”, say “young Saint Bernard” (etc) instead, then give details.
Image from Missing Pet Partnership.
SIZE: “Large” means a medium Lab to some people, a Great Dane to others. “About 24″ at top of shoulder & weighs 75 lbs” says it all. NEVER include the head in the height. Height is always measured at the shoulder.
AVOID USELESS INFO like show status and most personality traits (“friendly” or “shy” is okay). Do you really want to advertise that your missing champion show dog is worth $40,000? That’s stupid.
ALWAYS HOLD SOMETHING BACK! The way to determine if someone really has your dog is to keep one or two special bits of information to yourself. Don’t advertise the microchip number, scars, the fact that the dog has a tattoo, is missing teeth, has a small growth, only has 3 toes on the back foot or is missing a toenail. YOU ask THEM if the dog they found has “anything different” with the back feet or ears (only in very general terms), and see what they say. (“His teeth? Oh, hey, he’s got a broken-off lower fang and it has a FILLING in it!” BINGO!)
WHEN YOU’RE CHECKING ONLINE ADS, there’s no quick way to do it right. And please don’t just post an ad and sit back and wait; you have to do YOUR part, too. And if all you do is a search for “Chihuahua”, you’re going to miss the “little brown dog” or “chewawa” ad from your wonderful finder. Other people don’t want the wrong person to claim the pet, so they’re coy about the description: “Found, large dog — describe”. And all you scanned for was “Pyrenees”? Whoops! And you can’t even eliminate all the lost cats, birds, donkeys and goats by doing a search for “dog”, because there’s always someone going to type “found little doggie” or “dawg” and the program will skip right over it.
FLYERS: Plaster the area right away. Have them printed with WATERPROOF (laser jet) ink. You need TWO kinds. Where traffic is moving fast, those flyers should be simple with very large print, no photo: “Lost Lab, M, black, (123) 346-6789”. Where people will be on foot or driving slowly, you can give more details and a photo: “Lost Lab, black w/some white, neutered male, 2 yrs old, Gresham area. Call any time: (123) 456-7890”.
NEWSPAPERS: Not everyone has a computer. Put ads in the local newspapers, and ask if you have to pay extra for
online classifieds. And if your area has those classified papers where people advertise yard sales, firewood, and car parts, put a couple of ads in there, too. Tip: If you’re paying for two or three ads, insist they spread them through the paper – I’ve seen them set the same ad side by side.
Call your local newspapers and ask if they would do an article about your lost pet. If there isn’t much going on, they may do it. Have all your info and a decent photo ready, and DON’T give them the microchip number. If your pet is something special, a SAR dog, a hospital kids therapy dog, or happens to be locally famous for something, etc, be sure to mention that.
WHERE TO LOOK: NEVER, EVER assume that your pet is still in your neighborhood, town or sometimes, even the state. Runners can be miles from home. Even a 12″ Beagle can be two miles away in an hour or two. Runners like Siberian Huskies can be in the next county in a day or two. Dogs get stolen and sold for drug money. They get picked up and given to a girlfriend who turns it loose, or they can be found as strays and re-homed. A well-intentioned person can pick it up and then lose it on the way home because they didn’t have the sense to close all the windows. They can be grabbed by a vindictive neighbor and dumped miles away. Cats climb into cars and moving vans. Stolen pets have been known to escape. I personally know a poodle that came home (beautifully groomed) two years after disappearing from a locked yard. It’s a sorry thing when the owners give up before the pet does!
IF YOU’RE POSTING ON A MAJOR WEBSITE, be sure to say what direction you are from the nearest major city. On Craigslist, please don’t just post an intersection or a neighborhood, include the CITY — suppose the finder isn’t familiar with the area, or is just passing through? Some people subscribe to lists, and might make a connection between a pet lost on one list and one found on another. Make it easy for them.
MAIL, E-MAIL OR DELIVER FLYERS to all the vets in the area, including the emergency clinics, and as far away as you can. If your dog is one that gets grooming, like a poodle or schnauzer, mail them to all the groomers in the area. Calling the info in is less desirable, but fast. It has been said that a picture is worth a thousand words.
Here are some (not all) local pet emergency / trauma centers where injured pets might be taken in the Seattle-Tacoma area
Bellevue: After Hours Emergency Clinic 425-641-8414
Everett: Animal Emergency Clinic of Everett 425-258-4466
Issaquah: Alpine Animal Hospital 425-392-8888
Kirkland: Seattle Veterinary Specialists 425-823-9111 Lynnwood: Veterinary Specialty Center 425-697-6106 Poulsbo: Animal Emergency Trauma Center 360-697-7771 Seattle: ACCES 206-264-1660
Seattle: Emerald City ER 206-634-9000
Seattle: Five Corners Vet Hospital 206-243-2982 Shoreline: Animal Medical Center (206) 204-3366 Snohomish: Pilchuck Vet Hosptial 360-568-3111
Tacoma: The Animal Emergency Clinic 253-474-0791
Image from Missing Pet Partnership.
PUTTING FLYERS IN MAILBOXES IS ILLEGAL and will be removed by the carrier. But you CAN foldthem so the LOST DOG is facing outward and tuck them between the mailbox flag and the box. If you see your mail carrier, give a flyer to him/her — they see a lot of dogs; also give them to other people working in the area.
KIDS live “closer to the ground” than adults, and probably know every dog in the neighborhood. Half-page flyers could be useful here, with one photo and the basics and your phone number. Point out that there is a reward “for return or INFORMATION LEADING TO RETURN”. If they’re bored, they may cruise around on their bikes and look in people’s yards or wooded areas. You can’t buy that kind of coverage. Keep contact quick — you don’t want to be called in as a prospective kidnapper or molester. Or, pay a responsible neighbor kid to pass them around at school.
MICROCHIPS: You can advertise that your pet is chipped, but NEVER post the microchip number! A scammer can call and say they’ve found a dog with that chip number, but they’re just reading it off your ad. They don’t have your dog, they just want your money, and they usually have a good story. If they truly might have your dog, they can have the dog scanned free at most vets and shelters, and the shelter/vet can call the chip company, and they’ll call you. You could offer to meet them there (take your chip document and photos of your pet). Call the microchip company and ask them to FLAG the dog as missing or stolen.
If you got the chip inserted and forgot to register it, the chip company should contact the vet clinic where the pet was microchipped. So you must call that vet clinic (even if it’s not your current one) and tell them what what has happened, so they will be aware that your pet is missing; and be sure to give them all your current contact info.
If you got the pet chipped at one of those Chip-a-Thons in a parking lot and didn’t register it, I think you’re out of luck. The Database people can only track to the registered owner or the vet clinic that bought the chip. But call them and find out for sure. A vet or shelter can scan to ID the chip brand for contact.
If your dog came with a chip and you didn’t change the contact info, call the chip company and ask them to contact the registered owner and give them your phone number so they can contact you if someone calls them. If you have the previous owner’s contact info, let them know.
If your dog was chipped in another country, some scanners may not pick them up. UNIVERSAL scanners will pick up all of them, but common scanners won’t.
Many/most shelters will scan a pet for a microchip when it comes in and again before they rehome or euthanize it. Some will scan deceased animals and attempt to contact you to let you know. Again, if your pet is chipped and registered, check with the chip company to make sure they have your current contact info. This is a bad time for a typing error!
REMEMBER: Microchip companies usually CALL YOU THEMSELVES when someone calls them about a pet with a chip; they take the caller’s phone number and GIVE IT TO YOU, they don’t give your number to the finder unless it is a veterinary clinic, animal shelter, or law enforcement.
AVID: 800-336-AVID (800-336-2843) HomeAgain: 866-738-4324
ResQ: 877-PETLINK (877-738-5465)
PHOTOS: Try to find a clear photo taken from the pet’s head level, not aiming down at him from above. Odd photo angles distort the look of the animal. A full-body photo while standing and a close-up head shot are ideal. Photos of scars (or the injury that caused them) or peculiar defects are only used for identification purposes when you are face-to-face with the finder and the dog is in sight. Don’t give strangers excess information.
STOLEN DOGS ARE OFTEN SOLD: Check the “Dogs for Sale” ads in your area and up and down the towns along the nearest freeway corridor, especially. If you get a line on a dog that might be yours, ask the finder to email you a photo. A REGISTERED MICROCHIP IS POSITIVE I.D. TO THE LAW, but if you’re stupid about it, the dog will disappear before the law gets there. Use your head.
Keep an eye on the Craigslist PETS section, eBay Classifieds (formerly called Fijiji), and Oodle, where stolen pets can be “rehomed” for a fee. Don’t use the phone number or email address that you used in your lost-pet ads — they may not be that dumb. Ask them to send you a photo. You could even check PetFinder.com and do a search like you’re looking for that kind of pet (most of these are usually legitimate).
You can handle a stolen/for-sale pet situation yourself, but you’d better not be stupid. Ask questions like a real dog shopper: is it good with cats/dogs/kids, does it bite, is it housebroken. Many of them are sold for drug money. Don’t go alone, but don’t take an idiot or talkaholic. Morons will screw up everything. Leave the kids and other pets home, too. If it is your pet, don’t fall apart and start calling its name and bawling! Keep your cool. Your dog will probably run to you, wagging; just say something like, “Oh, he’s so friendly! I like that!” A little bargaining is okay, but don’t be a fool and play Mr. Blustering Macho or Ms. LawAbiding Self-Righteous. You DO realize that some of these people are armed, right? Just pay up (think of it as a “Reward”) and get out. This is NOT a social call! When the deal is made, shut up and LEAVE–you want to get your “new” pet home.
CONSIDER PUTTING A PET WANTED AD in local papers or on Craigslist PETS for your general type of pet. Don’t be too specific. Use an alternate phone number from what you used in the lost flyers and ads. If you get a response, ask for a photo via email, meet in a public place (preferably a vet clinic or shelter) if you can. Take a leash or carrier with you.
A REWARD OFFER may push someone who knows something over the edge into calling with information. Who cares if they’re lowlifes if they help you get your dog home? If their info about someone else checks out, honor your agreement in cash. But meet in a public place for safety.
THE LAW doesn’t give a fig about your pet, but a registered microchip is POSITIVE IDENTIFICATION
Image from Missing Pet Partnership.
of ownership, and theft is theft, pet or not. But if someone contacts you with a high ransom demand, that’s extortion, which is a felony. Tell them you have to gather the money, ask for a phone number, email address, etc (who knows–they might even give you one). Then call the police and ask how they want to handle it. If they try to brush you off, you might remind them that extortion IS a crime, no matter if it’s a painting, a diamond necklace, or a pet. And you’d better have some photos in your hand, and a registered microchip number (or at least one that can be verified by your vet). No chip or positive ID, they aren’t likely to help.
If you see your pet on someone else’s leash or in their yard or car and they’re dodging you, call the police. TELL them the animal you suspect is yours has a microchip registered to you (as long as it’s true). Many law enforcement agencies have their own microchip scanners.
WATCH OUT FOR SCAMMERS who don’t have your pet but just want to steal your money. Don’t pay anything unless the pet is right there in front of you. NO PET, NO MONEY, NO EXCUSES. Take a friend — the bigger and meaner looking, the better.
MAP & SCENT ARTICLES: Keep track of where your pet may have been seen, and when, as it may form a pattern. Keep a list and mark the sightings on a local map for searches and posting flyers. Single sightings far off from the main collection of sightings tend to be false ones. Leave some old recently-worn or sweaty t-shirts with your scent on them and some food to help keep the dog in the area. (These shirts should be clean to start — no scented laundry products.) If you have another dog, take it there to pee (or take son or hubby there for the same reason). If possible, do these things well off the road but in sight of the road, then make your rounds every day (or more often). If possible, go to a recent sighting location and park the car, wait and watch. One woman went to sleep in her car with the window open, and woke up when her dog tried to jump into the car. Dumb luck does figure into the equation sometimes, but usually it’s hard work that does it.
SHELTERS: Don’t just call or fill out a form at the local Animal Shelter. Most places have a 2- or 3-day limit, so GO THERE at least every other day. Don’t depend on phone calls. Some people who work at shelters are dumber than roadkill, and wouldn’t know a Sheltie if they fell over it, much less a Portuguese Water Dog. But they won’t admit that they don’t know, they just say, “No, we don’t have any of those in here right now”, while your dog has a “KILL TODAY” sign on his cage or they’re selling it to another person.
Many/most shelters will have a RECORDED MESSAGE LIST of found, dropped off and deceased animals. Check it daily.
ASK THE SHELTER if they keep notebooks of pets being held by finders. Some people don’t trust shelters, so they will care for a found pet at home, but leave a flyer in the book. If the shelter has a notebook, check the FOUND book, add your own flyer to the LOST book. (Thurston Co., WA Animal Services & PAWS have these books.) If you might need a trap, ask if they lend or rent them (yes, there are traps for large dogs). WARNING: The shelters often don’t check incoming pets against the info in these books, so don’t depend on that. You have to do your own work.
HUMANE TRAPS: Havahart-type (humane) traps can be very useful for trapping animals, IF they haven’t been caught in a trap before (cats are fast learners). Buy, borrow or rent one (ask shelters, rescue orgs). I’ve used traps that will hold a 70lb dog. Make sure you understand how to use it. Put it in the area where the pet has been seen, away from any kind of traffic (junkies sell the traps as scrap metal). Under shelter is good in bad weather (under a piece of plywood leaning against a wall), or you could cover with plastic and carefully lay branches over it (be sure not to let anything interfere with the release mechanism). Bait with something smelly, like canned cat food, tuna or sardines in oil. If the pet is likely to be suspicious (esp cats), cut a single sheet of newspaper to fit the bottom of the trap without folding it, and lay it on the floor over the trip-plate, with food at the far end. If you have a two-door trap, only open one door; only open both doors if the trap will be used as a pass-through to the food or the shelter they’re using. If you’re trapping a cat with kittens, line up the trap (both doors open) to the entrance of where the kittens are. When using traps, YOU MUST CHECK THE TRAPS AT LEAST ONCE DAILY! If you can’t do this, don’t use a trap, or close it when you’re not available.
So the trap doesn’t walk off, attach to a tree or post with a heavy cable and padlock. A 3/8″ multi-strand steel security cable 15 ft long costs about $12 at Harbor Freight. Anchor it to something immovable.
Some traps have a latch that allows the animal to push its way out. You NEVER want this latch fastened when you’re setting the trap. Only fasten it when you catch the wrong animal. You may have to lift up the BACK of the trap and let the unwanted animal slide out. You might have to shake an opossum a bit, they always try to climb upward. Opossums usually just amble away, raccoons and feral cats take off like rockets. DO NOT STAND IN THE PATH OF AN ESCAPING ANIMAL!
If your trap doesn’t have this latch and you catch an opossum, raccoon or wrong pet, stand beside/behind the trap and open the door carefully to let them out. DO NOT STAND IN THE PATH OF AN ESCAPING ANIMAL! If you catch a skunk, bobcat or bear cub in the trap, call your local Fish & Wildlife Dept. (see State listing and keep number with you) and ask for advice. Off hours, call 911: “I’ve caught a skunk/bobcat/bear cub in a humane trap and I don’t know what to do.” If you do catch a bear cub, GET TO THE CAR IMMEDIATELY! Mom Bear is nearby. Call 911 from the car. If you’re lucky, Mom Bear may just rip the trap apart and take off with the cub.
YOUR KIDS: Kids only have one job – taking flyers to school to post and pass out. Unless you have teenagers with functioning brains who can take accurate messages, don’t let your kids take phone calls about the lost pet. Keep in mind that the person calling may not really HAVE your pet, and tell your kids that. Make sure your kids understand the situation and what they can and cannot do. If your toddlers are in the habit of grabbing the phone, you’re S.O.L. NEVER ALLOW YOUR KIDS TO PHYSICALLY RESPOND TO AN AD, with or without you.
CONTACT YOUR BREED RESCUE AND CLUBS (state and national). Even if they don’t have a Lost/Found page, email them the basic info. You simply never know who knows what.
PROVING THE PET IS YOURS. If the finder is sensible, he/she will insist that you prove the pet is yours. Take photos with you. If it looks like yours but the finder hasn’t checked for the chip (and yours has one), ask them to meet you at a vet clinic or shelter where the pet can be scanned in front of both of you (take your chip info and your own photo ID). You will have a psychological edge if you can do it at your vet clinic and they know you; just call ahead and tell them what you’re doing, ask if they will call you by name to show you are a client. But the finders might want to take the pet to their own clinic, which is still okay, they’re being responsible. Responsible finders are jewels — appreciate them. NO, they aren’t doing what is easiest for YOU, they’re doing what is best for the animal.
If you don’t have photos and don’t have a chip, the finder should be pretty suspicious, and rightly so. Of course, your dog (if not cat) should react to its owner differently than to a stranger, but if they know any tricks, now is the time to run them through their routines. Cats, well. . .. . ..
Not sure if that friendly plain tabby or black cat is yours? Your other pets will know.
Image from Missing Pet Partnership.
ONLINE LOST & FOUND PET SITES
These sites come and go as the owner either loses interest or the site fails to make enough money.
Some of the sites below only cater to dogs or to cats, but many of them are for all pets. Some are National, some are local to western Washington State.
Don’t be too specific when you’re searching FOUND pages — many people don’t know dog breeds, and more have trouble with identifying sex than you might think. Start with your state if you can, and leave it at that. Few sites have a lot of recent posts for any particular area, but add yours just the same. You only need ONE good connection. Someone may know of K9Feline Amber Alert or Flealess, and not Craigslist. Keep track of where you post. If/when you find your pet, you will want to go back and remove the postings. You don’t want calls about stray pit bulls or tabby cats for the next 10 years. Does your local area have a blog with a Lost/Found section? West Seattle does — I wish more of them did.
ANONYMOUS ONLINE SITES ATTRACT A LOT OF BOTTOM-FEEDERS. Expect trash calls, cruel calls, and some real bozos. Just because a stranger on the phone makes a statement doesn’t mean it’s true. If they say they saw the pet dead, esp w/o details, they may get their kicks that way, or they have your pet and are trying to throw you off the trail, so check it out personally. If the body isn’t there, find who picks up deceased animals from that area and talk to them. Also, some people have good intentions, but can’t tell a red hound from a brown poodle, even up close.
This is not a complete list of sites.
CL no longer allows websites to be listed here, so you’ll have to look them up yourself. Yes, some websites ARE short-sighted.
Amber Alert for Pets (you must set up a free account) America’s National Lost & Found Pet Database
Animal Aid — OR & SW Washington State — entries are in general order by date, but not EXACTLY.
The have a Dog Page, a Cat Page, and Other Animals/Birds.
Craigslist — KEEP CHECKING THE ADS, DON’T JUST SIT BACK & WAIT FOR PEOPLE TO RESPOND TO YOURS! And check all the ads or you might miss the important one. Post at least every few days, a photo is good. Many people don’t look past the first page. Check BOTH the LOST & FOUND and PETS sections under Community. Start fresh with each post. Never post a link to a previous post because they disappear. DON’T be coy with the title, like saying “please help” — go for the gold: “LOST Labrador — REWARD”. BEWARE: Scumbags abound here!
A famous online seller of new/used stuff that isn’t Amazon. (CL won’t allow me to name it), but everyone knows what it is, starts with ‘e’ and then ‘b’, but go for the classified section. Check out both the Lost/Found (under Pets), AND the list of your species for sale, in case your dog or cat was stolen or found and is being sold. BEWARE: Scumbags abound here!
Facebook, Twitter, etc Keep it open to all, not just members; if you can’t, don’t limit yourself to it. Many people don’t use these sites & won’t join just to see your notice.
Facebook: Lost Pet Found Pet — good intentions, poorly organized Missing Small Dog Alert — You can only post lost dogs, not found dogs.
Federal Way Lost Pets Federal Way Found Pets
FindFido (rather haphazd, but. . .)
Flealess Market Lost Pets International
Greyhound Amber Alert (Greyhounds only — all others will be deleted)
K9Feline Amber Alert (Yahoo Groups, join free) You can sign up to get notices via email as they come in.
Kitsap County Lost Pets
Little Nickel Classfieds (Tacoma & South Sound)
Lost & Found Pets WA State
Lost Dog Seattle (in and around)
Lost & Pound — This has changed to listings of possible info sources.
Missing Pet Network (USDA) — (Listings are by TOWN first, then by date — very awkward for a large area, so use your EDIT/FIND mode, using breed or year). Click on State Name, then Browse Listings to look at lists; Click on MPN State to post a notice.
Nickel Classifed Ads (SW WA & NW OR)
Oodle — This looks like a good place to find stolen pets, IMO. Click on photos to enlarge. They’re national.
PAWS takes stray dogs and cats from Bothell, Brier, Kenmore, Lake Forest Park, Mill Creek, Mountlake Terrace, Mukilteo, Shoreline & Woodinville.
Pet Amber Alert FEE, and they’re very coy about how much. Very annoying chat alert.
PetFinder — This site no longer has the classified for lost & found pets (a pity). But they do have lists of available pets offered, so act like you’re looking to acquire a new pet, just in case your pet was found and has been put up for sale. Most of the rescue groups are legitimate, but they do try to find homes for found and ownerless pets. The longer your pet has been gone, the higher the chance that it’s being rehomed.
Pet Key
Pet Lost Inc. Must register to post or look ($5 for 3 months), no free looking, which will limit access by
people who don’t want to pay.
The Pet Rescue — free classifieds & fee-based services. The classified is easy to search by state.
Pet Runaways
Pet Guardian Angels of America
Seattle ROMPS (Reuniting Owners w/Missing Pets System)
West Seattle Blog — Lost & Found Pets (I wish more areas had something like this!)
CATS
Animal Aid — Portland OR area, with some SW WA Feline Amber Alert (Yahoo Groups — must join, free) Tabby Tracker
BIRDS
911 Parrot Alert
Avian Welfare Coalition / Lost & Found Bird Hotline / Lost & Found
Cockatiel Rescue/Lost & Found
Parrot Alert
Parrots Now Lost & Found
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