2015-09-22

The Clyde is of course the river that runs through Glasgow and thence into the Clyde estuary which in turn eventually broadens to become to the Firth of Clyde. The firth has a broad and uncomplicated main channel along which the heavy shipping traffic of days past plied to the teeming docks and warehouses on the river in the city and sailed outward bound to ports scattered all around the globe. This maritime trade and the industries that supported it and supplied it with goods for transport was what made Glasgow great and created huge wealth among the ship owners and the leading industrialists of the area. The city was one of the main centres of trade between Britain and a world-spanning empire that reached its peak in the 19th century. Today The Clyde is a term that by common usage refers to quite a large area of SW Scotland penetrated by a number of deep sea lochs and channels that branch from the firth proper. Among these are Loch Fyne, Loch Long, Loch Gareloch, Holy Loch and the Kyles of Bute. The iconic island of Ailsa Craig, and the Isles of Arran, Bute and Cumbrae are among the islands of the Firth. In most of this area there is little evidence that one is close to one of the largest cities in Europe. It is stunningly beautiful and peaceful, and a superb sailing area, protected as it is from the west by the Kintyre peninsula and from the east by the landmass of central and southern Scotland. Still today one sees ships of all kinds in these waters, and the maritime trade, though much reduced from what it was, continues. That said, it is notable that a significant percentage of the vessels one now sees are military, for the upper Clyde is an important naval hub and, among other things, home to Britains nuclear submarines. The infrastructure supporting this naval presence is a vital employer in the area. We sailed into the southern entrance to the Firth when we left Sanda Island off the Mull of Kintyre. From there we made our way, with an unplanned detour, to an anchorage in Lamlash Bay on the east side of Arran, between Arran and Holy Island. Continuing north yesterday we sailed up the east coast of Arran and into the western entrance to the Kyles of Bute to anchor last night off the village of Tighnabruaich. We did in fact have our eye on Caladh Harbour a little further up the Kyles but after cautiously taking Kiviuq in it soon became apparent that the tiny sheltered cove was too tight for us, not allowing adequate swinging room. We then tried a deserted anchorage just a mile or so further north but the anchor was loathe to bite. After two failed attempts to get a firm hold we decided enough was enough and it was time for a beer, so we backtracked the short distance to Tighnabruaich where we eventually found a spot off the village where the holding was acceptable. It was then definitely time for a beer, which was accompanied by Faroese dried cod and sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil with lashings of home-made sourdough bread and butter รข€?" more lashings of bread and butter for one of us and more carrots and artichoke for the other. A peaceful night followed.

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