View at the summit of Haleakala at sunrise as taken on my iPhone.
Oahu, especially Honolulu, has a city feel. Maui is like the suburbs. It is the second largest of the Hawaiian islands and the second stop on my trip to Hawaii. The beauty of nature throughout the island is incredible. The west side of the island has the comforts of the modern world and lavish resorts. The summit of Haleakala is at the center of the island. The east side of the island, specifically Hana, is far from the resorts and preserves the timelessness of “old Hawaii”. Whether it is watching the breathtaking sunrise at Haleakala, hiking, swimming in the pristine Pacific Ocean, enjoying perfect beaches, going on a snorkeling adventure, etc.; there is some type of nature for everyone to enjoy.
Must Sees
Maui is absolutely beautiful. Nevertheless, two places stand above the rest:
Haleakala
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Haleakala (“house of the sun”) is a dormant volcano, over 10,000 feet above sea level. The Haleakala National Park costs $15 for a 3 day pass ($25 for an annual pass) and you can pay with credit card (they prefer it anyway). You can drive up to the Visitor Center and the summit, Puʻu ʻUlaʻula (Red Hill), right above the Center. Waking up early to see the sunrise at the top of Haleakala is a must do. It is one of the most spectacular and beautiful things you will ever see. I took a video of the minutes before and after the sun rises above the clouds: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NaZJs09u9qI. Honestly, no picture or video I took does the sunrise any justice. It is a million times more majestic with your own eyes. The event really begins 30-40 minutes before sunrise as the sky slowly lights up with an orange glow. As it gets closer to the sunrise, you can see the beauty of the bed of clouds below you. Of course, it climaxes with the giant yellow ball of the sun rising above the clouds.
Cloudy covered sunrise
Unfortunately, there is a chance for a major letdown too. The first time I time I went to Haleakala, the clouds completely blocked the sunrise. It was still beautiful to see the sky light up and rays of the sun reflect off the clouds. I only realized how disappointing it really was when I saw the sunrise on a clear day. During that first day, there had been a lot of rain that was being caused by a tropical storm in the nearby ocean. I went anyway because I was afraid it could be worse if the tropical storm directly hit the island in the subsequent days. I was hoping that the clouds would stay below the top of the volcano since I would technically be above the clouds. It did not work out.
A mountain or volcano has a climate of its own so it is very unpredictable. However, storms in the nearby area (Kula if you use internet weather services) will increase the chance for a disappointing sunrise. My advice is to schedule going to Haleakala on your first full day in Maui so you optimize the chances you have at a clear sunrise. It will never say sunny in the weather forecasts for Maui because it is a rainforest. If it says partly cloudy, it is the equivalent of sunny anywhere else. As a result, set your alarm for 2-3 AM and check the forecast first. If the forecast is not partly cloudy, you will have to use judgment and do a cost-benefit analysis that weighs going back to sleep. In addition, wear long pants and bring a jacket. The top of the mountain is significantly colder than where you are staying. I would also not book your flight out of Maui before 9 AM so you give yourself one last opportunity to see the sunrise if you do not see a great one before then. I changed my flight on my last day just to have one more shot at it but it was well worth it. However, I definitely would have booked a later flight if I knew better. I saw the sunrise, had time to fill up gas, and get back to the rental car location by the airport before 8 AM.
The road up to the top is winding. There are a lot of switchbacks since you cannot drive straight up a mountain. You need to concentrate but it is not really dangerous unless you are reckless and speed. If you want to see the sunrise at the summit which is a little further up than the Visitor Center, you need to get there earlier than you would have to for a spot at the Visitor Center parking lot. Get to the entrance by 4:30. It will take another 30 minutes to drive to the Visitor Center and summit. There is a right turn before the Visitor Center that heads up to the summit. There will also be a parking attendant there. I did not get there early enough the first time I went but I got there in plenty of time the second time. Honestly, the biggest thing is that it is a clear sky. You will have a great experience at the Visitor Center elevation too as long as it is clear. There is also a short path up a small cliff to the right of the Visitor Center, you can walk that gets you a little higher.
Crater Trail and Sliding Sands
There are also a lot of hiking trails at Haleakala in the crater. The Crater Trail and Sliding Sands starts by the Visitor Center parking lot. However, I would not hike too much of it unless you just want a really good workout. I hiked an hour down and an hour back up. The hike back up is a legit workout due to the elevation gain and thinner air. The views as you descend are not worth it though. There is not much to see. I would walk 15-20 minutes down and then go back up.
The Road to Hana
Road to Hana
Hana is a small town isolated on the east side of Maui. The charm of the town is that it has isolated itself from the changes in the last twenty years that have occurred on the west side of the island (e.g. the resorts). Nevertheless, the scenic and difficult drive on the road to Hana is what everyone remembers. It is a very beautiful drive. The road runs along the northern coast line. There are many waterfalls of all sizes. The flora on the cliffs next to the ocean is a spectacular sight. On the other hand, you will definitely need to be focused when you drive. The roads are narrow and winding. There are also a lot of one way bridges. Nevertheless, I did not find it too scary. At first, I would get startled when cars drove by on the other side of the road, out of nowhere, on sharp turns. However, I realized that we were both going 15-20 miles per hour so the fear quickly subsided. It is scarier driving 55+ miles per hour on the winding roads of the Taconic Parkway in New York. In addition, there are yield signs that warn you before you get to the one way parts of the road. Again, you need to focus but it is not dangerous unless you are reckless or not paying attention because you are staring at the beauty on the road (which is possible). If you do get nervous, just let a car pass you and follow at a comfortable distance. Passengers in the car get to just soak in and see all the beauty. However, the driver gets to brag that he completed the drive.
There are GPS guides that will direct you at all the points to stop at on the road. My friend did something similar many years ago on his Honeymoon. He said the drive toward Hana is great because it is exciting to make all the stops to break up the long drive. However, he had a headache because of the winding roads on the way back after he already looked at everything so did not make any stops to break up the drive. If you do get the GPS guide, I think it makes you stop at a lot of small things too (e.g. it considers any small stream a waterfall). After getting this feedback, I decided on another strategy: driving straight to Hana on the way there while I have my optimal focus then making stops on the way back. I usually just stopped for big ticket items. You can usually tell if there is something good to see if you spot multiple cars parked at the side of the road. You can also notice things you want to stop for and see as you drive. In addition, I read about frustrations from travelers who get stuck behind cars that go really slow or stop to see the scenery on the road. I avoided it by leaving for Hana early in the morning (I got to the beginning of the road in the north close to the town of Paia by 7 AM). I did not encounter much traffic. In addition, I advise against driving to Hana from the south side of the island via the Pilani highway. The car rental agreement has an embedded footnote that states driving on parts of that road voids the agreement. They have that clause because parts of that highway are rough (e.g. dirt, narrow paths). If you do decide to go that route, definitely rent a 4X4. In my research, I also saw warnings to drive very slowly when you arrive or leave Hana. There is a school where the police apparently strictly enforce the speed limit for the school zone. As a result, I made sure that I was aware and super careful when I drove through that section of the road.
I also agree with the idea of picking a few stops on the road to Hana and focusing your time on them rather than trying to spend a few moments at everything. Accordingly, the following are places I stopped at:
Haleakala National Park – Kipahulu District
Pipiwai Trail
After I reached Hana, I drove another 30 minutes south to the back end of Haleakala National Park. The same park pass that gets you to the top of Haleakala also gives you access to this part of the park. Unlike the crater at the volcano, this part of the park is lush with vegetation, streams, and some waterfalls. The visitor center and parking lot will be on the left side of the road as you drive down from Hana. I hiked the Pipiwai Trail which is 4 miles round trip with moderate elevation gain. The trail gets really pretty once you hit the bamboo forest. There are also two waterfalls on the hike. Your view of the first waterfall is cutoff by trees and plants in the way so you will only see the top half. However, the beauty of the second waterfall against the backdrop of the valley is well worth the hike. There is also a small stream you can cross to get a closer view of that second waterfall where you will see the bottom of it. The view is still great even if you do not cross the stream. I did cross and got my socks and hiking boots soaked. They are waterproof but water will go above the top of your boot. You can also try to go across barefoot. While the path is very safe, it could be very muddy and have puddles.
Another hike that starts at the visitor center is the Kuloa Point Trail. It is only .5 miles round trip. It is short so it is worth doing to see the ocean and pools of O’heo which are sacred. However, you only get a side view of the pool from this trail. The best view of them are on the bridge you cross driving right before you reach the visitor center.
In total, I spent about 2 hours here.
Braddah Hutts BBQ Grill (5305 Hana Hwy Hana, HI 96713)
I highly recommend this food truck off the side of the road. It is the second best place I ate in Maui. They will usually have huge lines as a lot of tours will also stop there. The barbecue is amazing and among the best I have had anywhere. The meat is barbecued fresh on the grill after you order. It is very tender and the sauce is incredible. I had the barbecue chicken. However, the lady at the register said that everything is great there and I believe her.
Hasegawa General Store (5165 Hana Hwy Hana, HI 96713)
As a store, it is nothing special. However, it is worth a quick stop since it is iconic. It serves a small town in the middle of nowhere so it has a little of everything and is overpriced. They also have shirts that say you survived the road to Hana. They are the only thing I would buy besides a drink if I forgot to bring enough.
Hana Beach Park
I came here by accident trying to find Kaihalulu beach, the red sand beach. Unfortunately, my data plan just ran out completely and I could not look up how to get there. The pictures of the beach are very beautiful. I wish I found my way there. I have looked up the directions subsequently. There is a trail that you hike to get to it. The trail begins at the end of Uakea road near the Hana Community Center. However, I also read warnings that the trail is dangerous and you could fall off the cliff if you are not careful. Moreover, a landslide washed away part of the trail. In regards to Hana Beach Park, it is a solid beach but nothing special. You get a good view of the ocean, the mountains, and a decent beach. The red sand beach is definitely better even though I have not seen it in person. If you do not want to risk going on the trail to that beach, you can always go to Waianapanapa State Park.
Waianapanapa State Park
Black sand beach
It is known as the black sand beach. It is a must stop. First, the view of the coast is spectacular. There are jagged rocks on the coast line due to black lava formations that meet the ocean. In addition, the plants are very pretty (e.g. bright green flowers, tropical trees, etc.). There is also a hiking trail, left of the beach, that you can hike for great coastal views. It apparently runs for 4.5 miles, which I did not know at the time. I was also hoping that the trail loops but it is one way so I walked 20 minutes out and then returned when I realized it is not a loop. As I noted before, the trail has jagged rocks. I would definitely wear appropriate footwear. I wore sandals and I could definitely feel the sharp rocks, especially when my feet accidentally came out of the sandals a few times. The beach is incredible. It is a cove with a couple of rock formations that visitors swim around. I saw at least one rock formation where it is hallow so you can go into it. I did not bring swimming trunks to go swim in Hana. Nevertheless, the black sand beach would be my first choice to go swim on the east side of Maui. I spent an hour just walking around this state park. If you want to swim, I would definitely allocate at least two hours here.
There is a parking lot for the park and there is no fee to enter.
Halfway to Hana (13710 Hana Hwy, Haiku, HI 96708)
Their hours are 8:30 AM – 4 PM. I drove past it in the morning before it opened. I tried to stop here on the way back but I got there 5 minutes before 4 PM and it had already closed. This place is known for its banana bread. As the sign for it says, it has the original banana bread. There are so many places to stop at that I would not schedule my day on making sure I am there when it is open.
Mama’s Fish House (799 Poho Pl, Paia, HI 96779)
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Mama’s Fish House awaits you in Paia at the end of a long drive back from Hana. It is definitely the best food I had in Maui. They catch their mahi mahi and tuna fresh from the ocean daily so I would definitely recommend dishes that feature either fish. For an appetizer, I had the crispy mahimahi roll with Hamakua mushroom sauce and lillikoi-fennel jam. The crispy, outer layer tasted like the outside of a spring roll. For an entrée, I had the “Ahi” which is seared in a Hana ginger-panko crust with Kalua Pig fried rice. Both dishes were incredible and the presentation is impeccable. I ate better Kalua pig in Maui but I went to this place for fish and it truly delivered on the fish. They also bake their own bread and it is very good. Moreover, a server came and gave me a small cup of the soup of the day to sample.
The décor of the restaurant is excellent. It is right on the beach so it is definitely a nice place to dine at as the sun sets. I also really liked the inside of it. It is clean and looks very good. In addition, it has a great atmosphere. Their service is good. The restaurant also has free valet parking. Mama’s Fish House definitely gets nothing but praise from me. Since it is a nice restaurant, I would bring a change of clothes after a long day of sweating. Nevertheless, you do not need to dress up.
Other Good Sights to See
Iao Valley State Park
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This park is the beautiful backdrop for Wailuku. It is on the east side of the West Maui. It is close to the airport. You will see the majestic valley as you drive west from the airport. The fee is $5 per car. All the paths in the park are paved or has stairs. You can walk down to the stream and gardens or walk up to a lookout where you will see the Iao Valley Needle. The needle is a famous tourist attraction. It was used as a lookout during some of the historical battles on Maui. Of course, you also have great views into the valley and out towards the rest of Maui. At the lookout point for the needle, there are signs not to pass the rail. Behind that sign is a trail made by hikers that take you up closer to the needle. While you get a slightly better view of the needle, there is really nothing else up there to see. I recommend staying on the designated paths in the park. The hike up is a good exercise but it is not worth it. There are better things to do and see in Maui. It is a beautiful park but you can enjoy it in 30 minutes to an hour.
West Maui
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West Maui is the northwest part of the island that juts out. The drive on the west side is absolutely beautiful as you see the ocean and the nearby Hawaiian islands, including two of the other big ones: Lanai and Molokai. There are lookouts if you want to stop and admire the views. I also stopped at the town of Lahaina. There is a mall, restaurants, and shops. The main street and strip of shops and restaurants is right next to the ocean. You can see Lanai to the west. There is a free parking lot but I just went to a paid lot so I did not have to wait.
Local Food
I had lunch in Lahaina at a hole in the wall type place called “Local Food”( 222 Papalaua St # 202, Lahaina, HI 96761). It is very good. I had the kalua pig cabbage plate that includes macaroni and rice. I also ordered the spam musubi. It is basically spam sushi which is a popular item in Hawaii. At first, I scoffed at the recommendation from friends to try it. However, I really enjoyed it when I ate it. It tastes a lot better than any spam I have had before then. I would definitely recommend Local Food if you want something good, cheap, and quick for lunch.
Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice
I also tried Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice here. It has other locations around the island. I rank it as the best shave ice I had in Hawaii. I agree with its 5 star rating on Yelp. The syrup and texture are top notch. The macadamia nut ice cream that you can get with it is incredible. Definitely try Ululani’s if you are in Maui.
I drove up to Ka’anapali where the resorts are. The beaches are absolutely stunning. However, you need to either stay at the resorts or pay to get in so I did not stop to go on them. Although I did not go any further north, I read that there are great places to swim and snorkel in West Maui. If you go to the northwest corner, you will also be able to see Molokai. Due to the proximity to the other islands, you can also go on boat rides to them and snorkel there too. I did not do any of it but they are probably good experiences if you are interested in them.
Makena Beach
Top pictures is Makena Landing Park. Bottom pictures is Maluaka Beach.
If you want to go to a beautiful beach on the west side of Maui and not pay, go south and go to Makena beach. There is a big Makena Beach but I found a couple of spots north of it that are good. I assume they have a lot less people than the big beach too if you want more privacy. The first spot is Makena Landing Park which is on Makena road. It is a small cove and beach. The parking lot is right next to it. If you go further south on the road, Maluaka Beach is bigger. There is a parking lot on your left that is across the street from a church on the right. You walk down to the beach from there. The beach is beautiful with great views of the islands. You can see the wind farms on the south side of Lanai. A couple of the resorts lead into the beach. However, they section off the parts for their guests and the rest of the beach is public. I definitely recommend Maluaka Beach if you want to swim.
Other Places to Eat (Kihei)
I stayed in Kihei and there were very good dining options. It is a good part of the island to stay in if you do not want to stay in a resort.
Horhitos Taqueria (1941 South Kihei Road, Kihei, HI 96753)
It is a food truck and my favorite spot to eat in Kihei. The Mahi Mahi fish tacos are amazing. Of course, it is also a cheap dining option.
Cafe O’Lei Restaurants (2439 S Kihei Rd #201A, Kihei, HI 96753)
This café has good food at reasonable prices. It is a good spot for lunch with their lunch special. I ordered a chicken lettuce wrap and the fish of the day lunch special. The fish special is $12-$13 which is a little more than the regular lunch special. On the day I went, the fish was mahi mahi. It was fresh and the sauce was really good. In general, both the dishes were good.
Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar (1881 S Kihei Rd, Kihei, HI 96753)
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Sansei is known for its creative dishes. It definitely gets an A for presentation but I had mixed feelings about taste. The Panko-Crusted Fresh Ahi Sashimi is one of their signature dishes. It is good but not great. Moreover, I did not really like the other two things I ate. The first is the Soy Ramen Noodles. It is very forgettable and I did not think it is very good. I did not like the noodles or the broth. I had the tempura macadamia ice cream for dessert. The ice cream is good but I did not care for the tempura batter. On the other hand, everything I ate was half off because I ate at the cocktail bar during Happy Hour. It is the reason there is a line at the door before it opens every night.
Kina’ole Grill Food (1, 7 Alanui Ke’ali’i, Kihei, HI 96753)
It is another good food truck in Kihei. I did not think it was as amazing as the hype suggests but I also did not try what they are known for, the coconut shrimp, since I am allergic to coconut and do not like shrimp. Instead, I had the panko crusted mahi mahi. I thought it was good but not amazing.
Shaved Ice
Surfing Monkey Hawiian Shave Ice (1881 S Kihei Rd, HI 96753)
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This stand is next to Foodland. It is a great spot to get some shave ice. Their syrup is made from local sugar cane. It is very sweet and arguably the best syrup I had in Hawaii. I ordered the Maui Tropical Heaven which includes passion fruit, guava, and mango flavors. It is awesome.
S & Q’s Coffee & Shave Ice Shack 2439 S Kihei Rd, Kihei, HI 96753)
This shack is at the entrance of the Rainbow Mall in front of Café O’Lei. It is another excellent spot for shave ice. The syrup and ice cream are very good. I ordered a half cherry and half watermelon shave ice with vanilla ice cream. It is on par with all the best shave ice spots I tried on the Hawaiian islands.
Coffee
From left to right: Wailuku Coffee Company, Java Café, and Belle Surf Café.
Oahu has the best coffee shops but Maui has a few good ones too. Wailuku Coffee Company (26 N Market St, Wailuku, HI 96793) served me the best latte I had on Maui but it also served me the worst. It is because of different baristas. The one on the weekend made a terrible drink and the one during the week made an amazing one. It looked and tasted like two completely different drinks. Java Café (1279 S Kihei Rd, Kihei, HI 96753) is very good and I like that I had a consistent experience both times I went. It is within a shopping plaza so just park in the plaza. Belle Surf Café (1794 S Kihei Rd, Kihei, HI 96753) is another good coffee shop in Kihei.
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