view of Champagne’s Marne Valley from hill near the Abbey of Hautvillers
This is the RJ on Wine annual Holiday Champagne Buyer’s Guide. It’s bigger than ever—including ratings on 325 current releases–and packed with some amazing wines and many excellent values.
I publish the Guide at this time of year because this is when most American wine buyers do their Champagne purchasing and retailers are well stocked with a variety of options. The end-of the-year holidays, and Valentine’s Day that follows a month and a half later, are, of course, great times to enjoy the celebratory qualities of fine Champagne. So are birthdays, anniversaries and other special occasions.
Given the terrific quality level of today’s Champagnes and their tremendous food versatility, however, I submit this season is also a good time to lay down a number of bottles to enjoy throughout the year. I must also share with my readers what I learned from a fellow wine writer on my recent trip to Champagne about the virtues of this special product as a daily “reset button.”
My buddy John Foy—who writes about wine for The Star-Ledger in New Jersey–was a successful restaurateur in New Jersey for many years. After a long day in the kitchen, he found the only thing that would invariably clear up his palate and help “reboot” his energy to face several more hours of preparing meals and being a genial host was a glass of Champagne. He started this practice in June 1976 when he opened his first restaurant, The Tarragon Tree, and has continued for 37 years now to enjoy a glass of Champagne at 6 pm every evening for its singular revitalization qualities.
I have aimed to emulate John by having a glass of the stuff at least a couple times of week, especially after a trying day. I have to report that it works. It’s a mood lifter and a palate cleanser. It’s hard not to be reminded of all that’s wonderful about life after indulging in a single glass of Champagne as a start to the evening. And Champagne keeps beautifully once you’ve poured out a single glass, better than any other wine I can think of. An inexpensive Champagne stopper provides an airtight seal, and the carbon dioxide released by the bubbles keeps the wine fresh and sparkling so another glass can be enjoyed the following night, or even several nights later.
For this year’s Holiday Champagne Buyers’ Guide, I’ve tasted over 400 Champagnes, many of them multiple times. I spent a week in Champagne at the end of September where I tasted over 90 of these wines, and attended small tastings with distributors as well as the major annual trade tasting of grower Champagnes: the Terry Theise/WineWise tasting. I also took part in a few excellent public tastings: the annual Masters of Wine tasting at San Francisco’s Ferry Market Building, K&L’s tent event and Beltramo’s annual tasting. I’ve also received a number of Champagne samples this year. The 325 wines rated below are the currently available Champagnes I tasted. My tasting notes on earlier vintages, or earlier editions of regular non-vintage bottlings, can all be found on CellarTracker.
Masters of Wine Champagne tasting in San Francisco
Before turning to specific buying recommendations, based on styles and prices, here are a few general observations as a result of my tastings for this report.
The current releases of the non-vintage tastings I sample virtually every year from major producers, including important growers, are as good, or in many cases better, than the prior editions of those wines I’ve tasted in the past. I believe this is due both to the constant quality improvement efforts going on in Champagne, as detailed in my last blog post, as well as to a succession of generally good vintages over the past several years, yielding excellent base and reserve wines from which these non-vintage offerings have been assembled.
Rosé Champagne
Secondly, the quality of rosé Champagnes has never been greater in the decade or so that I’ve been seriously tasting Champagne. This is a particularly important category in the U.S. Many of the rosé Champagnes I taste pretty much every year stood out in 2013 as being superior to any of those I’ve tasted from the same producers in the past. If you’re a fan of rosé Champagne—and it’s a versatile wine, made in a few different styles—there’s never been a better time to buy it than now.
Finally, one producer stands out this year in both the quality and value columns: Serge Mathieu. I visited this producer on my CIVC organized trip in September, and the wines, by Michel Jacob, were truly a revelation—delicate, complex and truly artful wines from Champagne’s Cotes des Bar region that are selling at astonishingly low prices, at least for the moment. I will be profiling this producer in an upcoming post.
Serge Mathieu and Michel Jacob
As usual, it is important to remind ourselves why Champagne remains a costly product. Most Champagne available in the U.S. starts in the high $30s, and most of significant quality begins at $40-$50. At the high end, it’s a matter of marketing and scarcity, but some of the most expensive in this report go from $250 to $400 or more. There are, of course, no values at that level. Many of those high priced bottlings are very impressive, but the main focus in this report as a guide for consumers is on price to quality ratios.
The reasons for prices starting at about $40 has to do largely with the costs of production. As explained in my last report, the entire plantable acreage of the Champagne region is already covered with vines, thanks to the region’s growing financial success over the past 60-plus years. With the high demand for quality Champagne grapes, the raw materials themselves are expensive. Then there’s the elaborate process involved in making the wine, which includes the need for lots of specialized equipment as well as substantial space for aging the wines.
The lengthy period of time required to age the wines on their yeasts, which ties up inventory and adds greatly to the cost of production, is arguably the most significant aspect leading to the distinctive and seductive nature of Champagne. That’s because the second fermentation in bottle required for Champagne involves a yeast and sugar mixture added before bottling that ultimately yields a lot of dead yeast cells, also known as lees, once the secondary fermentation is completed.
bottles aging on their lees in Drappier’s cellars that date to the Middle Ages
The gradual death and decomposition of yeast cells, releasing molecules that slowly interact with the wine, is known as autolysis. It’s these dead cells remaining in contact with the wine until disgorgement—for a minimum of 15 months but more typically from four to ten years in the case of top Champagnes–that has a number of beneficial effects. Among other things, autolysis inhibits oxidation of the wine and increases the amino acids that lead to some of Champagne’s wonderful aroma and flavor characteristics, like bready and hazelnut flavors.
In my notes below I use the term “yeasty” and related flavor descriptors like almond, biscuit and light brioche to describe wines where the effects of this autolysis on aroma and flavors are noticeable. I employ the term “autolytic,” and related descriptors like hazelnut, toasty and croissant, to convey the smell and taste impressions of wines that are thoroughly autolytic in character. Many Champagne lovers covet these kinds of Champagne the most. And for the increasing numbers of us who are either allergic to gluten or who have for other health reasons greatly reduced bread products in our diet in recent years, these autolytic Champagnes can make a wonderfully aromatic, delicious and evocative bread substitute.
Top Ratings
Of the 325 wines listed below, I rated 15 at 95 points or higher, and another 25 at 94 points.
My top rated Champagnes currently on the market are both vintage Champagnes that I rated 97+ points: 2000 Krug and 1998 Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Rare. The latter was only produced in magnum, and it’s the most impressive of the several Cuvée Rare bottlings I’ve tasted over the years. The average U.S. price on the 2000 Krug per wine-searcher.com is $245, while a magnum of the ’98 Cuvee Rare will set you back $400.
As to the top wines of particular styles, my top Blanc de Blancs is the 1995 Charles Heidsieck Blanc de Millénaires, which I rated 96+ points. It’s still the current release of this wine, and averages $180. My top rosé Champagne, and one of the greatest rosé Champagnes I’ve ever sampled, is the 2005 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé Brut at 96+ points. It averages $221. Both the current Krug Rosé (96 points) and the Vilmart Cuvée Rubis (95+ points) are also wonderful, with the latter being my high end rosé value of the year at $82.
My favorite non-rosé, non-vintage offerings of the year are the Krug Grande Cuvee (95 points) and the Serge Mathieu Cuvee Prestige Brut (95 points). The latter also easily tops my list for best value non-vintage Champagne at only $42.
My top sweet style Champagne this year—the kind of wine that pairs beautifully with Asian and spicy foods much like Riesling and Gewurztraminer, as well as with desserts that aren’t super sweet–is the NV A. Margaine Demi-Sec Premier Cru at 92 points ($50).
And for those who like their Champagnes thoroughly autolytic, the 1998 Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Rare is as good as it gets. There are, however, many other wonderful, highly rated choices, such as the 1995 Charles Heidsieck Blanc de Millénaires (96+ points), 2000 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill (96 points, $237) and 2000 Charles Heidsieck Millésimé (94+ points, $89).
Top Value Recommendations
In terms of values, the least expensive Champagne at 95 points or higher—where the price spread runs from $42 to $509–is the NV Serge Mathieu Cuvee Prestige mentioned above, followed by the 2006 Serge Matthieu Brut Millésimé at $57. At 94 points—which includes wines ranging from $40 to $308–Serge Mathieu again is the best priced at $40 for the NV Brut Rosé, followed by their NV Cuvée Tradition Blanc de Noirs at $45 and the NV Chartogne-Taillet Brut Rosé at $55.
Among the more than 50 excellent Champagnes I rated at 93 points—including bottlings running from $40 to $279–the best priced are the NV Ariston Aspasie Brut Prestige (93+), NV Ariston Aspasie Brut Rosé and 2010 Franck Bonnville Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, all averaging $40. The first and third wines just mentioned are currently only available at K&L, one of the country’s great sources for Champagne, including some exclusive imports—thanks in no small part to the tireless efforts of Champagne buyer Gary Westby.
At 92 points, we finally break the $40 floor with the very tasty NV A. Lancelot-Pienne Blanc de Blancs at $37.
For all my ratings and tasting notes, organized by producer, including other highlighted value offerings, see below.
Alain Thienot
NV Alain Thienot Champagne Brut
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; lightly yeasty, almond nose; creamy textured, lightly yeasty, almond palate; medium-plus finish 91+ points
1999 Alain Thienot Champagne Cuvée Alain Thiénot
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, autolytic, hazelnut nose; tasty, creamy textured, autolytic, hazelnut, almond cream, pear palate with subtle cinnamon and spice notes on finish; medium-plus finish 93+ points
2005 Alain Thienot Champagne Cuvée Stanislas Blanc de Blancs Brut
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, almond, yeasty nose; tasty, almond, yeasty, tart pear, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 93 points
2006 Alain Thienot Champagne Cuvée Garance Blanc de Rouges
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; almond, yeasty nose; creamy textured, almond, yeasty, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 92 points
NV Alain Thienot Champagne Rosé
Light pink yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; savory, yeasty, sauteed onion nose; creamy textured, savory, sauteed onion, golden raspberry palate; medium-plus finish 92 points
Ariston Aspasie
These are terrific values at around the $40 level.
NV Ariston Aspasie Champagne Brut Prestige
From magnum – light pink-tinged yellow color; yeasty, almond, tart pear nose; elegant, yeasty, almond, tart pear, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (50% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir, 25% Pinot Meunier; 2007 base) 93+ points
NV Ariston Aspasie Champagne Brut Prestige
Light lemon yellow color with abundant mousse; appealing, pear cream, almond, yeasty nose; tasty, floaty, light-bodied, almond, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 91+ points
NV Ariston Aspasie Champagne Cepages d’Antan
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, focused, almond, yeasty nose; focused, creamy textured, yeasty, almond, marzipan, mineral, almond cream, tart pear palate; medium-plus finish (40% Meslier, 40% Arbanne, 20% Pinot Blanc) 93 points
2007 Ariston Aspasie Champagne Brut Millésimé
Light medium yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; yeasty, savory, sauteed onion nose; tasty, savory, yeasty, sauteed onion, tart apple, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (1/3 each Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir) 91+ points
NV Ariston Aspasie Champagne Brut Rosé
Light medium pink color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; yeasty, almond, tart raspberry nose; tasty, poised, mineral, almond, tart raspberry, light sauteed onion palate; medium-plus finish (50% Pinot Noir, 50% Pinot Meunier) 93 points
Armand de Brignac
These are very pricey Champagnes that have caught on with the hip hop and Hollywood crowd, perhaps because of their unusual and flashy packaging. Their quality, though, has also improved greatly from the first couple editions that I tried years back.
NV Armand de Brignac Champagne Brut Gold Montagne de Reims
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, almond, autolytic, light butter nose; tasty, rich, creamy, lightly buttery, autolytic, mineral palate; long finish (40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier, from ’03, ’05 & ’06 vintages) 92+ points
NV Armand de Brignac Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Montagne de Reims
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; autolytic, almond cream, light toffee nose; rich, tasty, autolytic, almond cream, mineral, tart pear palate; medium-plus finish 92+ points
NV Armand de Brignac Champagne Ace of Spades Rosé Montagne de Reims
Light orange pink color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, light orange cream, ripe apricot cream, autolytic nose; creamy textured, poised, light orange cream, tart apricot cream, mineral, autolytic, almond palate; long finish (50% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier, 10% Chardonnay) 92 points
L. Aubry
A small grower producer run by two brothers. They own 17 hectares in 60 different locations. They have gone back to the historical roots of Champagne to include three long forgotten Champagne grapes: Fromenteau (also known as Beurot, probably an ancestor of Pinot Gris), Arbanne and Petit Meslier. A lot of their vines are also planted “en foule,” i.e., the generation of new vines by laying out a branch from a “mother” plant and covering it with soil and manure, as was the common practice prior to phylloxera, especially throughout Burgundy. Two cuvees they make from the old varieties are designated Campanae Veteres Vites, meaning “old vines of the countryside.”
NV L. Aubry Fils Champagne Brut
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; yeasty, tart pear, chalk nose; tasty, poised, solid, tart pear, chalk, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (45% Pinot Meunier, 25% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, 5% “other”; 50/50 2010 & 2009; disgorged Jan. 2013) 92 points
2008 L. Aubry Fils Champagne Le Nombre d’Or Campanae Veteres Vites Brut
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, yeasty, tart pear, pear cream nose; tasty, poised, very tart pear, lemon, yeasty, mineral palate with medium acidity; could use 1-2 years; medium-plus finish (25% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, 20% Petit Meslier, 15% Arbanne, 15% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Meunier; Chard sees large oak, 205-liter, mainly neutral; 3 grams dosage; disgorged Feb. 2013) 93 points
2008,L. Aubry Fils Champagne Le Nombre d’Or Sablé Blanc des Blancs Brut Campanae Veteres Vites
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, yeasty, tart pear cream nose; intriguing, sharp, tangy, tart lemon, lemon cream, mineral palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish 90+ points
2006 L. Aubry Fils Champagne Aubry de Humbert 1er Cru
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; brioche, lemon, citrus nose; creamy textured, rich, lemon cream, yeasty, brioche palate; medium-plus finish (50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir/Pinot Meunier; disgorged Feb. 2013; very good for the style) 92+ points
2008 L. Aubry Fils Champagne Ivoire et Ebene
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, pear cream, light white chocolate, lemon cream nose; tasty, lemon cream, mineral, solid, very tart pear palate; medium-plus finish 92+ points
NV L. Aubry Fils Champagne Rosé Brut
Light orange pink color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; yeasty, tart golden raspberry nose; tasty, poised, tart golden raspberry, mineral, tart lemon palate; medium-plus finish (40% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, 12% Pinot Meunier, 13% still red wine; Chard sees neutral oak; 2010 fruit except for the still red; disgorged Dec. 2012) 92+ points
Ayala
This producer, a source of very good values, was founded in 1860. Since 2005, it has been owned by the Bollinger family.
NV Ayala Champagne Brut Majeur
Light yellow color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; tart apple, nectarine nose; ripe nectarine, ripe pear palate; medium-plus finish 90 points
2005 Ayala Champagne Blanc de Blancs
Light yellow color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; yeasty, lemon cream, almond nose; tasty, poised, almond, lemon cream palate; medium-plus finish 92 points
2002 Ayala Champagne Blanc de Blancs
Light yellow color with lots of speedy, tiny bubbles; maturing, almond, marconi almond, saline, tart apple, cream nose; poised, tasty, creamy textured, almond, lightly saline, tart apple palate; medium-plus finish (8.5 grams dosage; 3.10 pH; 12.4% alcohol) 91+ points
NV Ayala Champagne Rosé Majeur
Pale salmon color with abundant, tiny, speedy bubbles; appealing, tart raspberry cream, almond nose; rich, tasty, raspberry cream, almond palate; medium-plus finish 91 points
Baron-Fuenté
NV Baron-Fuenté Champagne Galipettes Brut
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, yeasty, almond, almond brickle nose; tasty, yeasty, almond, almond brickle, mineral, saline palate; medium-plus finish (70% Pinot Meunier, 20% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir) 91+ points
2006 Baron-Fuenté Champagne Grand Millésime Brut
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; yeasty, almond, almond cream nose; mature, yeasty, almond, almond cream, nougat palate; medium-plus finish 91 points
Bernard Brémont
NV Bernard Brémont Champagne Grand Cru Brut Rosé Ambonnay
Light pink color with steady, tiny bubbles; cherry, tart strawberry, strawberry cream, almond nose; tasty, strawberry cream, light white pepper, almond, tart raspberry, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay; 12% alcohol) 90+ points
Besserat de Bellefon
NV Besserat de Bellefon Champagne Cuvée des Moines Brut
Light straw yellow color with steady, tiny bubbles; yeasty, almond, honeyed nose; lightly oxidized, yeasty, tart pear, tart apple, mineral palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (12.5% alcohol; typically 45% Pinot Meunier, 35% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir; 3 years on lees; disgorged March 2012) 90 points
Billecart-Salmon
This house dates back to 1818, is still family owned, and makes very consistent, high quality Champagnes in a lighter, delicate style. The lower end offerings tend to be good values. The winemaker since 1998 is François Domi. They buy about 95% of the grapes they need, and own some Pinot Noir vineyards.
NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Réserve
Very light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; yeasty, almond powder, baked pear nose; tasty, delicate, creamy textured, tart pear, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (40% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir; about 30% reserves from ’06, ’07 & ’08) 92+ points
NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Extra
Light pink-tinged yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; oxidative apple, yeasty nose; oxidative apple, mineral, yeasty palate; medium-plus finish 89 points
2002 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Cuvée Nicolas-François Billecart
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, yeasty, almond, brioche nose; tasty, creamy textured, autolytic, brioche, mineral, almond cream palate; medium-plus finish (60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay) 93 points
NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rosé
Light salmon pink color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, yeasty, almond, almond cream nose; tasty, delicate, almond, almond cream, ripe pear, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Meunier; 30-40% reserves from ’06, ’07 & ’08) 92 points
H. Billiot
Laetitia Billiot
NV H. Billiot Fils Champagne Grand Cru Brut Rosé Ambonnay
Light pink color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; yeasty, chalky, mineral, floral nose; tasty, poised, delicious, tart raspberry, orange, mineral, orange cream palate; medium-plus finish (Pinot Noir, 50% 2010, 50% 2009 & 2008; disgorged Jan. 2013) 93 points
NV H. Billiot Fils Champagne Grand Cru Brut Cuvée Julie Ambonnay
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, ripe pear, tart peach, pear cream nose; intense, tasty, tart pear, mineral, tart grilled peach, smoky cherry palate; medium-plus finish (disgorged Dec. 2012) 92+ points
NV H. Billiot Fils Champagne Grand Cru Brut Réserve Ambonnay
Very light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; oxidative, oxidative apple nose; tasty, oxidative apple, mineral, tart golden raspberry palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (50% 2010, 50% 2009-2008; disgorged Jan. 2013) 91 points
NV H. Billiot Fils Champagne Grand Cru Brut Cuvée Laetitia Ambonnay
Light yellow color with lots of tiny bubbles; oxidative, apple, Amontillado sherry nose; oxidative, oxidized apple, lightly nutty, Amontillado sherry, mineral palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish 88 points
Bollinger
This great house was founded in 1829 by a German, Joseph Bollinger. The vintage wines are fermented in small, aged oak barrels, and malolactic is not encouraged. These are typically very heavy, full bodied wines. The cuvée of the vintage La Grande Année varies from year to year, but is always dominated by Pinot Noir.
NV Bollinger Champagne Special Cuvée Brut
Light lemon yellow color; appealing, yeasty, almond, light hazelnut, praline nose; tasty, poised, creamy textured, light medium bodied, autolytic, almond, hazelnut, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier; 8 to 9 grams dosage) 92 points
NV Bollinger Champagne Special Cuvée
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; tart baked apple, golden raisin, toasted almond nose; rich, almond, toasted almond, tart baked apple, light honey palate; medium-plus finish (60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier; max 8 grams per liter dosage) 92 points
2004 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année
Light medium yellow color with several columns of very tiny bubbles; appealing, toasted almond, hazelnut, tart pear nose; rich, creamy textured, poised, tart apple, almond, roasted almond, baked apple, mineral, oxidized apple palate; medium-plus finish (66% Pinot Noir, 34% Chardonnay; 88% grand cru fruit, 12% premier cru; 8 grams dosage) 93 points
NV Bollinger Champagne Rosé Brut
Light pink orange color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; light strawberry, yeasty, almond nose; tasty, poised, almond, yeasty, mineral palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (62% Pinot Noir (6% finished PN wine), 24% Chardonnay, 14% Pinot Meunier; 5 to 15% comes from reserve wines aged 5-15 years in magnums) 91+ points
2004 Bollinger Champagne Grande Année Rosé
Light pink color with steady stream of very tiny bubbles; appealing, cherry cream, white chocolate, golden raspberry nose; honey, white chocolate, ripe cherry, cherry cream palate; medium-plus finish (68% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay; aged on lees at least 6 years) 93+ points
Bruno Paillard
NV Bruno Paillard Champagne Brut Premiere Cuvée Montagne de Reims
Light green-tinged yellow color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; elegant, tart pear, light brioche, almond, golden raspberry, Rainier cherry nose; appealing, elegant, tart golden raspberry, tart pear, mineral, almond, tart lemon, ripe grapefruit palate; with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (45% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay, 22% Pinot Meunier; disgorged 1/13) 93 points
NV Bruno Paillard Chardonnay Champagne Brut Réserve Privée
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, very tiny bubbles; very appealing, yeasty, saline, tart apple, fine pear, floral, chalk nose; tasty, poised, tart apple, tart pear, lightly saline, mineral palate with finesse and near medium acidity; medium-plus finish (5 grams dosage; disgorged 8/11) 92+ points
NV Bruno Paillard Champagne Rosé Brut Première Cuvée
Light salmon pink color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; tart strawberry, tart golden raspberry nose; tasty, very tart Rainier cherry, tart golden raspberry, tart citrus, mineral palate with some roundness and medium acidity; medium-plus finish (reminiscent of Bandol Rose, disgorged 1/13) 92+ points
Camille Savès
NV Camille Savès Champagne Brut Carte Blanche Bouzy
Very light yellow color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; yeasty, almond, tart pear nose; tangy, tart pear, tart apple, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 89 points
NV Camille Savès Champagne Brut Grand Cru Rosé
Light pink color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; light raspberry, tart strawberry nose; tasty, tart raspberry, very tart strawberry, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 91+ points
Cédric Bouchard
2008 Roses de Jeanne/Cédric Bouchard Champagne Blanc de Blancs La Haute-Lemblé
Light lemon yellow color with steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, floral, tart pear, spicy poached pear, yeasty, tart quince nose; tight, very tasty, tart lemon, tart quince, mi8neral palate with medium acidity; needs 3 years; medium-plus finish (12.5% alcohol; disgorged April 2012) 93 points
2010 Roses de Jeanne/Cédric Bouchard Champagne Inflorescence Blanc de Noirs Val Vilaine
Light yellow color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; reduction, tart pear, mineral, light apricot nose; tasty, tight, tart apricot, mineral, tart Rainier cherry palate; medium-plus finish (12.5% alcohol; disgorged April 2012) 93+ points
2008 Roses de Jeanne/Cédric Bouchard Champagne Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules
Light yellow color with lots of speedy, very tiny bubbles; appealing, light reduction, tart Rainier cherry, tart pear, lime nose; very tasty, rich but delicate and detailed, mineral, lime, tart apricot palate that is lightly honeyed; medium-plus finish (100% Pinot Noir; disgorged July 2010) 94 points
Charles Ellner
This house dates back to 1900 when the founder, then employed by Moët, began buying vineyards. His great grandson, Jacques Ellner, is now making the wines. They own 56 hectares of vineyards.
NV Charles Ellner Champagne Brut Réserve
Light yellow color with abundant, tiny, speedy bubbles; yeasty, toasted almond nose; tasty, rich, poised, almond, croissant, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 92 points
Charles Heidsieck
One of my favorite houses, at all levels. Their lower end bottlings are always good and reliable values. Since 1985, it’s been owned by the Rémy-Cointreau Group. The house now owns 30 hectares in Ambonnay, Bouzy and Oger. I’ve had this 1995 Blanc des Millénaires several times, and it continues to impress. It was made by the great chef de caves, Daniel Thibault, before his death in 2002, and remains the current release. The current winemaker for both Charles Heidsieck and Piper Heidsieck is the great Régis Camus.
CEO Cecile Bonnefond and Régis Camus of Charles Heidsieck and Piper Heidsieck
NV Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; autolytic, hazelnut, almond, baked apple nose; delicious, rich, creamy textured, hazelnut, almond, baked apple, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (per back label, laid in chalk cellars in 2008, disgorged 2012; good value) 93 points
2000 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Millésimé
Light medium lemon yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; autolytic, savory, dried mushroom, coriander nose; tasty, poised, savory, autolytic, mushroom, coriander, cumin, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (really showing well now) 94+ points
1995 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Blanc des Millénaires
Light yellow color with abundant, tiny, speedy bubbles; toasty, autolytic, hazelnut nose; creamy textured, delicious, autolytic, hazelnut, almond, almond cream palate; long finish 96+ points
NV Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Rosé Reserve
Very light orange color with abundant, tiny, speedy bubbles; autolytic, savory, mushroom nose; tasty, autolytic, mushroom, savory, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 92+ points
Chartogne-Taillet
Alexandre Chartogne, whom I think of as the “gentle giant of Merfy,” is a brilliant winemaker. The Chartogne-Taillet wines are widely available, thanks to being favorites of Terry Theise, and they are value priced as well as minerally and terroir specific. Highly recommended.
Alexandre Chartogne
NV Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Cuvée St. Anne
Light straw yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; focused, ripe apple, tart pear nose; tasty, clean, fresh, crystalline, tart apple, very mineral, chalk, saline palate with mouthwatering medium acidity; medium-plus finish (60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir; 4 grams dosage; blend of family’s parcels throughout Merfy) 91+ points
2006 Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Brut Millésimé
Light golden yellow color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; appealing, mature, yeasty, honey, almond, white chocolate nose; creamy textured, delicate, almond, almond cream, mineral, pear cream, biscuity palate; medium-plus finish (60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay; disgorged 12/8/12) 93+ points
2008 Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Brut Millésimé Merfy
Light yellow color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; tart pear, tart green apple nose; delicious, delicate, focused, very minerally, saline, lime, tart pear, palate; good now but should go 10-15 years; long finish 93+ points
NV Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Les Barres Extra Brut Les Barres
Light yellow color with few, tiny bubbles; lemon chiffon, lemon bar, fresh green apple, chalk nose; fresh, delicious, characterful, tart green apple, lime, mineral, saline palate; long finish (2008 fruit) 93+ points
NV Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Brut Rosé
Light salmon pink color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, intriguing, lightly savory, light mushroom, golden raspberry nose; very tasty, delicate but flavorful, juicy, tart golden raspberry, Rainier cherry, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir; all 2010; disgorged Jan. 2013) 94+ points
Claude Cazals
NV Claude Cazals Champagne Blanc de Blancs extra Brut Cuvée Vive Clos Cazals Le Mesnil Sur Oger
Bright light yellow color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; appealing, yeasty, white chocolate, pear nose; rich, creamy textured, yeasty, mineral, tart pear, light white chocolate palate, nicely rounded for a very low dosage Champagne; medium-plus finish (2006 base; 3 grams dosage) 91+ points
Daniel Ginsburg
2004 Daniel Ginsburg Champagne Cuvée Rene Millesime
Light lemon yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; cream, yeasty, almond nose; tasty, creamy textured, savory, saline, tart lemon, almond, almond oil, ripe grapefruit palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish 91 points
De Sousa
NV De Sousa et Fils Champagne Blanc de Blancs Tradition Avize
Light yellow color with abundant, tiny, speedy bubbles; yeasty, almond nose; tasty, almond, tart apple, yeasty, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 90 points
Delamotte
NV Delamotte Champagne Brut Le Mesnil Sur Oger
Light yellow color with steady, tiny bubbles; chalk, almond, tart apple nose; tasty, mineral, tart apple, chalk palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish 91+ points
NV Delamotte Champagne Brut Côte des Blancs
Light lemon yellow color with lots of steady, tiny bubbles; autolytic, chalk, oxidative tart apple nose; tart apple, mineral, chalk, lightly oxidative palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (50% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier) 88+ points
2002 Delamotte Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Côte des Blancs
Light green-tinged yellow color with steady, tiny bubbles; focused, tart green apple, chalk, green pear nose; tasty, focused, creamy textured, tart green apple, chalk, green pear, mineral palate with lively acidity; long finish 93 points
Demière-Ansiot
NV Demière-Ansiot Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Le Mesnil Sur Oger
Light green-tinged yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; yeasty, oxidative apple nose; creamy textured yeasty, oxidative apple, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (mainly 2008 fruit, with ’06 & ’07 reserve) 90+ points
2006 Demière-Ansiot Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Le Mesnil Sur Oger
Light yellow color with abundant, tiny, speedy bubbles; yeasty, lemon drop nose; tasty, yeasty, creamy textured, lemon drop, mineral palate with lift; medium-plus finish 92+ points
Deutz
NV Deutz Champagne Brut Classic
Light yellow color with lots of speedy, tiny bubbles; appealing, yeasty,, tart apple, almond nose; tasty, tart apple, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (12% alcohol) 90 points
Diebolt-Vallois
NV Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Cramant
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; almond, white chocolate, yeasty nose; creamy textured, yeasty, almond, mineral palate with tangy medium acidity; medium-plus finish 90 points
Drappier
NV Drappier Champagne Brut Nature Zero Dosage
Very light yellow color with steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, ripe pear, ripe lemon, light banana nose; fresh, delicious, light bodied, ripe pear, mineral palate with more of a sense of sweetness than the sans soufre bottling; medium-plus finish 92+ points
NV Drappier Champagne Brut Nature Non Dosé Sans Soufre
Light yellow color with lots of steady, tiny bubbles; very clean, ripe lemon, very ripe grapefruit nose with a light sense of peach; fresh, clean, tart grapefruit, lemon, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (100% Pinot Noir; no sugar, no added sulfur, no filtration) 93 points
2006 Drappier Champagne Millésimé Exception
Light yellow color with steady, tiny bubbles; very appealing, dried peach, blond fig, lifted, VA, honey nose; tasty, rich, round, opulent, honeyed, blond fig palate; long finish (40% in oak barrels; based on 2006 vintage; disgorged 7/13) 93+ points
NV Drappier Champagne Quattuor – Blanc de Quatre Blancs
Light yellow color with steady, tiny bubbles; honey, honeysuckle, peach nose; delicate, honeyed, tart apple, tart pear, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (uses the four permitted white grapes of Champagne: Chardonnay, Arbane, Petit Meslier and Blanc Vrais, i.e., Pinot Blanc; pH 3.05; dosage is with a liqueur made from Pinot Blanc aged for 25 years) 93 points
NV Drappier Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs
Light yellow color with steady column of tiny bubbles; chalk, light anise, light sesame seed, celery seed nose; delicate, tasty, tart lemon, mineral, tart pear palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish 93 points
NV Drappier Rosé Sans Soufre
Light orange pink color with few, tiny bubbles; savory, tart orange, pink grapefruit nose; tasty, delicate, tart pink lemon, mineral, chalk palate with near medium acidity; medium-plus finish 91+ points
Duval-Leroy
1996 Duval-Leroy Champagne Brut Millésimé
Light lemon yellow color with lots of tiny bubbles; very yeasty, light white chocolate, very tart apple nose; tasty, tangy, maturing, tart lemon, mineral, lightly savory palate with lively acidity and appealing texture; medium-plus finish 91+ points
Edmond Barnaut
NV Edmond Barnaut Champagne Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru
Light straw yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, chalk, lightly oxidized, tart apple nose; tasty, oxidative, tart apple, dried pear, chalk, mineral palate with refreshing acidity; medium-plus finish 90+ points
Egly-Ouriet
NV Egly-Ouriet Champagne Brut Tradition Grand Cru Ambonnay
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, yeasty, light white chocolate, almond nose; tasty, fresh, tart pear, mineral, tart apple, tart peach palate; medium-plus finish (75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay; 40 months on yeasts; disgorged July 2013) 92 points
NV Egly-Ouriet Champagne Brut “Les Vignes de Vrigny” 1er Cru Ambonnay
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, yeasty, tart peach, baked pear, almond nose; very tasty, poised, yeasty, creamy textured, almond, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (100% Pinot Meunier; 40 months on yeasts; disgorged November 2012) 93+ points
NV Egly-Ouriet Champagne Brut Rosé Grand Cru
Light salmon pink color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, yeasty, tart raspberry, golden raspberry, almond cream, floral nose; creamy textured, elegant, ripe raspberry, mineral, raspberry cream, tart cherry palate; medium-plus finish (60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay; 48 months on the yeasts; disgorged July 2013) 94 points
Elisabeth Goutorbe
2005 Elisabeth Goutorbe Champagne Millésimé Aÿ
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, yeasty, light sauteed onion nose; tasty, poised, creamy textured, almond, tart baked apple, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 92+ points
NV Elisabeth Goutorbe Champagne Cuvée Éclatante Aÿ
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; tart pear, lightly yeasty, floral, almond nose; delicate, floral, ripe pear, tart peach, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 91 points
Eric Rodez
NV Eric Rodez Champagne Cuvée des Crayères Ambonnay
Light yellow color with abundant, tiny, speedy bubbles; almond, yeasty nose; creamy textured, green apple, almond, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 91 points
Fleury
NV Fleury Pere & Fils Champagne Blanc de Noirs Brut Côte des Bars (Aube)
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; yeasty, almond, baked pear nose; tasty, creamy textured, yeasty, almond, baked pear, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 91 points
2004 Fleury Pere & Fils Champagne Cuvée Robert Fleury Brut Côte des Bars (Aube)
Light lemon yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; very appealing, autolytic, hazelnut, hazelnut cream nose; tasty, autolytic, hazelnut, hazelnut cream, oxidative, ripe pear, mineral palate with fine delineation; medium-plus finish 92+ points
NV Fleury Pere & Fils Champagne Brut Rosé de Saignée Côte des Bars (Aube)
Light peach yellow color with abundant, steady tiny bubbles; autolytic, almond, hazelnut, white chocolate nose; tasty, autolytic, almond, hazelnut, light white chocolate, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 91+ points
Forest-Marie
NV Forest-Marie Champagne Cuvée St. Crespin 1er Cru
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; savory, autolytic, mushroom nose; tasty, poised, creamy textured, very autolytic, mushroom, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (nice version of the style) 93+ points
NV Forest-Marie Champagne Blanc de Blancs
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; yeasty, tart pear nose; creamy textured, tart pear, baked pear, yeasty, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 91+ points
NV Forest-Marie Champagne Brut Tradition
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; yeasty, white chocolate nose tasty, round, yeasty, cream sauce, lemon cream, ripe pear palate; medium-plus finish 92 points
NV Forest-Marie Champagne Rosé Brut
Light orange pink color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; autolytic, golden raspberry, light orange nose; tart orange, mineral, very tart golden raspberry, pear palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish 92 points
Franck Bonville
NV Franck Bonville Champagne Cuvée Les Belles Voyes Brut Blanc de Blancs Avize
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; tart lemon, light hazelnut nose; creamy textured, tasty, delicate, lemon cream, mineral, chalk palate with baked pear finish; medium-plus finish (based on 2008; aged in oak) 93 points
NV Franck Bonville Champagne Brut Selection Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Avize
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, almond, almond cream nose; yeasty, almond, almond cream, tart pear, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 90+ points
2007 Franck Bonville Champagne Brut Selection Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Avize
From magnum – light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; yeasty, savory, chalk nose; creamy textured, poised, tart pear, chalk, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 92 points
2010 Franck Bonville Champagne Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Avize
Light green-tinged yellow color with lots of tiny bubbles; yeasty, tart lime, preserved lime, white chocolate nose; creamy textured, very dry, very tart lime, cottage cheese, yeasty, mineral palate; long finish 93 points
Gaston Chiquet
Nicolas Chiquet
This producer goes back eight generations, and currently controls over 22 hectares. The Blanc de Blancs bottling happens to be the only Blanc de Blancs made from the Pinot village of Aÿ.
NV Gaston Chiquet Champagne Tradition
Very light yellow color with abundant, tiny, speedy bubbles; almond, brioche nose; tasty, almond, tart apple, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 91 points
NV Gaston Chiquet Champagne Tradition Brut 1er Cru
Very light yellow color with steady, tiny bubbles; cream, light vanilla nose; creamy textured, light creme fraiche, tart apple cream, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (40% Pinot Meunier, 35% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir; 82% 2009 fruit; disgorged 7/12) 91 points
2005 Gaston Chiquet Champagne Brut Special Club
Very light yellow color with steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, focused, tart pear, lightly yeasty nose; tasty, poised, tart apple, tart pear, mineral palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (disgorged 6/12) 91+ points
2004 Gaston Chiquet Champagne Réserve Blanc de Blancs d’Aÿ
From magnum – light yellow color with steady, tiny bubbles; autolytic, tart pear, light mushroom nose; very tasty, poised, delicate, autolytic, tart pear, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (disgorged 6/12) 93+ points
2003 Gaston Chiquet Champagne Brut
Very light yellow color with steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, lifted, autolytic, lime cream nose; delicate, appealing, lime, lime cream, mineral, tart pear palate; medium-plus finish (additional time in bottle has really benefited this one) 93+ points
2004 Gaston Chiquet Champagne Brut
Light yellow color with steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, autolytic, floral, apple cream nose; tasty, rich but poised, apple cream, mineral, autolytic palate; medium-plus finish (60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay; disgorged 9/11) 92+ points
NV Gaston Chiquet Champagne Réserve Blanc de Blancs d’Aÿ
Very light yellow color with steady, tiny bubbles; lightly oxidative, mineral, lightly yeasty, tart apple nose; tart pear, mineral, lightly yeasty palate; medium-plus finish (disgorged 10/12) 92 points
NV Gaston Chiquet Champagne Brut Rosé Aÿ
Very light pink color with steady, tiny bubbles; yeasty, light toast, floral, raspberry, tart strawberry nose; tasty, elegant, delicate but flavorful, golden raspberry palate; medium-plus finish (all 2009; disgorged 8/12) 93 points
Gonet-Médeville
NV Gonet-Médeville Champagne Tradition Premier Cru Brut
Light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; autolytic, hazelnut, brioche nose; tasty, yeasty, autolytic, hazelnut, brioche palate; medium-plus finish (70% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir, 5% Pinot Meunier) 91+ points
Gosset
NV Gosset Champagne Brut Excellence
Light medium yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; yeasty, light sauteed mushroom nose; tasty, creamy textured, mature, light sauteed mushroom, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (27 months on lees, 30% reserve wines; good value) 92+ points
NV Gosset Champagne Brut Grande Réserve
Light yellow color with abundant, tiny, speedy bubbles; yeasty, tart apple nose; ripe and oxidized apple palate; medium finish 88+ points
NV Gosset Champagne Grand Blanc de Blancs
Light yellow color with abundant, tiny, speedy bubbles; appealing, almond brioche, almond cream nose; tasty, rich but poised, almond cream, almond brioche palate; medium-plus finish 91+ points
2004 Gosset Champagne Brut Grand Millésime
Light medium yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; yeasty, savory, light sauteed onion nose; creamy textured, tart pear, mineral, yeasty, lightly oxidative palate; medium-plus finish 92 points
2000 Gosset Champagne Brut Grand Millésime
Light yellow color with abundant, tiny, speedy bubbles; oxidative, tart apple, apple sauce, yeasty nose; tasty, creamy textured, rounded, tart apple, baked apple, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 92 points
Henri Giraud
NV Henri Giraud Champagne Hommage A François Hemart Brut Aÿ
Light yellow color with steady tiny bubbles; appealing, floral, light vanilla, almond nose; poised, creamy textured, elegant, light footed, mineral, tart apple, tart pear palate with integrated oak; medium-plus finish (50/50 Chardonnay/Pinot Noir; 12% alcohol) 93 points
Henri Goutorbe
Etienne Goutorbe
Henri Goutorbe owns nearly 22 hectares, and the Cuvée Prestige is typically Pinot Noir dominated (65 to 70%), with Chardonnay and sometimes a small amount of Pinot Meunier. The wines all go through malolactic.
NV Henri Goutorbe Champagne Cuvée Prestige Aÿ
Light yellow color with steady, tiny bubbles; yeasty, tart pear nose; creamy textured, tart pear, mineral, almond palate; medium-plus finish (based on 2007 w/15-20% 2006 fruit; disgorged 7/12) 92 points
2004 Henri Goutorbe Champagne Special Club Aÿ
Light yellow color with steady, tiny bubbles; yeasty, autolytic, tart pear nose; autolytic, tart pear, almond, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (from Ay old vines; disgorged 1/13) 92 points
NV Henri Goutorbe Champagne Rosé Aÿ
Light salmon pink color with steady, tiny bubbles; light cherry cream nose; creamy textured, tart cherry, cream, raspberry, mineral palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (best version of this bottling I’ve ever tried; all 2009 fruit, 65% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay; disgorged 12/12) 92+ points
J. M. Gremillet
2009 J. M. Gremillet Champagne Brut Grande Réserve Blanc de Noirs
Light straw yellow color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; yeasty, almond, sesame seed nose; creamy textured, yeasty, tart apple, mineral, green apple, chalk palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (12% alcohol) 90+ points
Henriot
The Henriot family have been growers in Champagne since the mid 1600s, and started this house in 1808. They generally work with vines averaging 25 to 30 years old.
NV Henriot Champagne Blanc Souverain Brut
Light yellow color with abundant, tiny, speedy bubbles; yeasty, almond nose; tasty, almond, yeasty, brioche palate; medium-plus finish 91+ points
NV Henriot Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut
Light lemon yellow color with abundant, tiny, speedy bubbles; autolytic, hazelnut nose; tasty, poised, autolytic, hazelnut, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 92+ points
1998 Henriot Champagne Cuvée des Enchanteleurs Brut
Light yellow color with abundant, tiny, speedy bubbles; appealing, very yeasty, brioche, apple pastry, apple tart filling nose; creamy textured, light-medium bodied, yeasty, apple pastry, brioche, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 93+ points
2005 Henriot Champagne Brut Millésimé
Light yellow color with abundant, tiny, speedy bubbles; savory, autolytic, dried onion soup mix nose; autolytic, creamy textured, tart pear, baked pear, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 93+ points
NV Henriot Champagne Brut Rosé
Light orange pink color with abundant, speedy, tiny bubbles; yeasty, tart strawberry, light sauteed onion nose; tasty, delicate, ripe strawberry, yeasty, mineral, tart cherry palate; medium-plus finish (70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay) 92+ points
Jacques Chaput
NV Jacques Chaput Champagne Brut Rosé Côte des Bars (Aube)
Very light orange color with steady, tiny bubbles; autolytic, floral, tart orange nose; tasty, tart orange cream, mineral, autolytic palate; medium-plus finish 91 points
Jacques Selosse
Jacques Selosse
NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Brut Initiale
Light golden color with steady, tiny bubbles; oxidative, manzanilla, vaguely smoky nose; tasty, elegant, tart lemon, oxidative, mineral palate; long finish (based on ’06, ’05 & ’04 vintages) 93 points
NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Version Originale Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs
Light golden color with steady, tiny bubbles; almond, sherry, tart lemon nose; rich, creamy, ripe lemon,, mineral, almond palate; very long finish 94+ points
2003 Jacques Selosse Champagne Millésimé
Light medium golden yellow color with tiny bubbles; appealing, oxidative, almond, ghee, biscuit nose; creamy textured, mineral, melted butter, ghee, lightly oxidative palate; long finish 95 points
2002 Jacques Selosse Champagne Millésimé
Light golden color with steady, tiny bubbles; appealing, oxidative, melted butter, croissant, tarte tatin, almond nose; tasty, creamy textured, almond, mineral, sweet butter palate; very long finish (from 2 parcels planted in 1975 on average 12% gradient, up to 59%) 94+ points
Jacquesson
NV Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Cuvée No. 737
Pre-release (late Nov. 2013 release) – light yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; almond, toasted almond, light hazelnut, saline nose; tasty, almond, saline, golden raspberry palate with firm texture and medium acidity; needs 2 years; long finish (43% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Meunier, 27% Pinot Noir; 30% reserves; based on 2009 vintage; 3.5 grams dosage; disgorged March 2013) 94 points
NV Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Cuvée No. 736
Slightly hazy, light straw yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; reduction, light lemon, yeasty, almond nose; tight, tasty, tart apple, very tart pear, mineral, saline palate; needs 2 years; medium-plus finish (53% Chardonnay, 29% Pinot Noir, 18% Pinot Meunier; 34% reserves; based on 2008 vintage; 1.5 grams dosage; disgorged November 2012) 93+ points
2002 Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Millésimé
Light lemon yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; light reduction, almond, saffron nose; tasty, layered, coiled, ripe lemon, mineral palate with medium acidity; long finish 94+ points
2002 Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Brut Avize Grand Cru Champ Caïn
Light lemon yellow color with abundant, steady, tiny bubbles; very appealing, saline, yeasty, almond, sesame seed nose; intense, tasty, saline, almond, sesame seed palate; long finish 96+ points
2004 Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Vauzelle Terme Aÿ
Light peach yellow color; floral, pear, lightly yeasty, almond, tart peach, saline nose; tasty, fresh, elegant, very tart pear, tart apple, minerally, tart peach palate with fine delineation; medium-plus finish (100% Pinot Noir) 94 points
2004 Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Brut Avize Grand Cru Champ Caïn
Light yellow color with few, steady, tiny bubbles; very appealing, yeasty, almond, peanut nose; tasty, rich but poised, medium bodied, delicate, mineral, yeasty, tart pear, lemon, poached pear palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish 94+ points</stro