The annual San Francisco Rhône Rangers grand tasting, which was held March 25, got me reflecting on the state of Rhône varieties in California. I’ve been to this and other Rhône-themed tastings for many years, and there are clear trends in what Rhône grapes do well here, and which have, to date, produced less impressive results.
The Rhône is one of the great wine regions of France, and of the world. Based on centuries of experience with grape growing and working with specific sites, a major division has developed there between grapes grown in the hilly, more rain-soaked north versus the warmer south.
In the Northern Rhône, the sole red grape is Syrah, which is sometimes blended with a small amount of the white grape, Viognier. The white grapes are floral Viognier, and the oily textured, often very ageworthy Marsanne and Roussanne (the latter two typically blended).
In the Southern Rhône, the dominant appellation is Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France’s first official AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée). There a multitude of grapes are permitted, but the primary red grape is Grenache, which came originally from Spain. Syrah is a fast-rising second, due to heavy plantings of this grape in recent years. Smoky, earthy Mourvèdre, also originally from Spain, is the third most important red grape.
vineyard in Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Few wines from the Southern Rhône are made from a single variety. Most are a blend of red grapes, sometimes with white grapes added to the mix. The dominant blend in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the surrounding appellations, like Côtes du Rhône, Vacqueyras and Gigondas, is Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. This blend is often referred to in the southern Rhône and elsewhere as GSM. There are also several blending grapes grown in small quantities, like Cinsault, Counoise, Muscardin, Vaccarèse and Terret Noir.
Ninety percent of the wine from Châteauneuf-du-Pape is red, but there are some delicious whites too, from that and other Southern Rhône appellations. The main white grapes are Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne and Marsanne, with small amounts of other blending grapes, like Bourboulenc and Picpoul.
Here in California, a few pioneers—like John Alban, Randall Graham of Bonny Doon, Josh Jensen of Calera, and Napa’s Joseph Phelps –started planting Rhône varieties in the late 1980s. (Modern Syrah plantings go back to the 1970s, but didn’t really take off here until the mid-1990s.)
Rhône Ranger pioneer Randall Graham
Their wines gave a much needed shot of diversity to the California wine scene, which until then had been all about Chardonnay, Cabernet and Zinfandel. These pioneers helped start California’s Rhône Rangers movement, which produced last month’s weekend event.
So which of these Rhône grapes, or blends, do well in California?
The biggest Rhône grape success story in California in terms of quality of offerings and relative value is Syrah. I’ve written previously here about the different styles of Syrah. California produces a lot of great Syrah, including cooler climate Syrahs that have savory and peppery characteristics reminiscent of Northern Rhône Syrah.
California also excels with Viognier, the white grape that produces the very expensive, floral and peach flavored wines of Northern Rhône’s tiny Condrieu appellation. Our versions typically lack the minerally qualities of great Condrieu, but the best producers are capturing Viognier’s peach and floral flavors, with good underlying acidity.
California is also starting to do well with Rhône-grape Rosés, typically based on Grenache and/or Mourvèdre. I tasted several dry Rosés at this year’s Rhône Rangers event that were reminiscent of French Rosés from Provence and Bandol—world benchmarks for great Rosé.
California is also having some success with white and red blends. I wouldn’t say I’ve been very excited by any California GSM blends, but blends of Syrah and Mourvèdre, and or Syrah and Petite Sirah with other grapes, including non-Rhône grapes like Zinfandel, are often successful.
Where California does less well is with single variety offerings of grapes that are typically only used as blending grapes in the Rhône—grapes like Grenache Blanc, Cinsault and Counoise. California has a long tradition of focusing more on varietal wines than blends, but some of these grapes just do not work well in single varietal versions. They need blending partners to help provide some of the characteristics to the wine that an individual grape like Cinsault, for example, low in both tannin and acidity, lacks.
A particular variety that continually disappoints me when I taste California versions is Grenache. This grape is grown widely around the world, but is sharply down in acreage over the last two decades from its height as the world’s second most widely planted grape. I think that’s due in part to the fact that it rarely makes very distinguished or complex wines.
The grape reaches its true apogee in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, where old vine vineyards, on rocky soils, produce profound wines with a rich cherry core, minerality, and complex additional flavors, like anise and lavender. Here in California, on the other hand, most Grenaches are fairly insipid red wines with berry and cherry flavors, but little real character.
I previously listed here some of California’s best Syrah producers. The best Viogniers I’ve had to date have come from Alban, Calera, Cold Heaven, Jemrose and Nicholson.
I tasted 151 wines from over 40 producers at the March 25 Rhone Rangers event (out of a total of over 110 wineries). I focused on new producers and producers I hadn’t tasted for awhile, so had to pass on some old favorites like Core, Lagier Meredith, Ridge and Tablas Creek.
The producers responsible for one or more wines that I rated 92 points or higher were Big Basin, Donelan (formerly Pax), Jemrose, L’Aventure, Qualia/Pavo, Quivira, Qupé/No Limit, Sanglier, Skinner, Stopman and Two Shepherds. The three new finds for me that I was most excited about were Sanglier, Skinner and Two Shepherds. For more information on these producers, see below.
There were several very good rosés at the tasting, including:
2011 Quivira Rosé – 91+ points
2011 Verdad Grenache Rosé Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard – 91 points
2011 Sanglier Cellars Rosé du Tusque – 91+ points
2011 Unti Rosé – 91 points
The best Viogniers of the tasting, wines that I rated 91 points or higher, were:
2010 Anglim Viognier Bien Nacido – 91+ points
2010 Campovida Viognier – 91 points
2010 Chateau Ste. Michelle Viognier – 91 points
2009 Jemrose Viognier Egret Pond – 91 points
2010 Pomar Juction Viognier 91+ points
2010 Two Shepherds Viognier Saralee’s Vineyard – 91+ points
The best white blends were:
2008 Anglim Cameo (white blend) – 91 points
2009 Edward Sellers Le Passage (white blend) – 91 points
2010 Sheldon Vinolocity (white blend) – 91 points
2011 Unti Cuvée Blanc – 91+ points
The very best wines that I tasted, all red, and rated 92 points or higher were:
Syrahs
2008 Big Basin Syrah Rattlesnake Rock – 92 points
2008 Big Basin Syrah Coastview Vineyard – 93 points
2005 Big Basin Syrah Rattlesnake Rock – 92 points
2009 Donelan Syrah Cuvée Christine – 92+ points
2009 Donelan Syrah Walker Vine Hill – 93 points
2008 Jemrose Syrah Cardiac Hill – 92+ points
2009 Pavo Syrah – 92+ points
2009 Quivira Petite Sirah Wine Creek Ranch – 92 points
2009 Qupé Syrah Bien Nacido – 92 points
2009 Qupé Syrah Sawyer Lindquist – 93 points
2009 Qupé Syrah Sonnie’s Sawyer Lindquist – 93+ points
2008 No Limit Wines Syrah The Nuts Sawyer Lindquist – 93 points
2009 Sanglier Syrah Kemp Vineyards – 92+ points
2008 Skinner Syrah – 92 points
2010 Unti Syrah Benchland – 92 points
Other Reds and Red Blends:
2009 Big Basin Homestead – 92 points
2008 Jemrose Gloria’s Gem – 93 points
2009 L’Aventure Côte-à-Côte – 92 points
2009 L’Aventure Estate Cuvée – 93 points
2009 Sanglier Rouge du Tusque – 92+ points
2010 Skinner Mourvedre – 92 points
2009 Stolpman Angeli – 92+ points
2010 Two Shepherds Syrah/Mourvedre – 92 points
2010 Unti Grenache – 92+ points
A final note about the event: One major issue I have with the Rhône Rangers producers is their inclusion of Petite Sirah in this tasting, even though the grape is not grown in the Rhône, and even under the name Durif, is hardly to be found anywhere in France. Petite Sirah, a distinctly Californian grape phenomenon, already has its own association of producers–P.S. I Love You–and its own annual event–Dark & Delicious–which I’ve reported on here. So why tack it on to a “Rhône Wine” event when it’s not a Rhone grape? Simply because one of its parents, Syrah, is a Rhone grape? I don’t get it.
For more details about particular producers and my complete tasting notes, see below.
Adelaida
2010 Adelaida Version White – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Light yellow color; poached pear nose; ripe, baked pear palate; medium finish (63% Roussanne, 37% Grenache Blanc) (88 pts.)
2010 Adelaida Viognier Glenrose Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Light yellow color; light pepper, gardenia nose; light pepper, gardenia palate; medium-plus finish 90+ points (90 pts.)
2008 Adelaida Grenache – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Light medium red color; tart cherry, floral nose; tart cherry, floral palate; medium finish (89 pts.)
2009 Adelaida Version Red – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Dark ruby color; tart berry nose; tasty, tart berry, herbs palate; medium-plus finish (89 pts.)
2009 Adelaida Syrah Anna’s Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Opaque purple red violet color; baked plum, herbs nose; tart black fruit, herbs palate; medium-plus finish (89 pts.)
2008 Adelaida Syrah Reserve Viking Estate Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Opaque red violet color; reduction, tart ripe currant, tart black fruit nose; tart ripe currant, tart black fruit palate; medium-plus finish (90 pts.)
AmByth Estate
2010 AmByth Estate Priscus Mark’s Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Light yellow color; oxidized apple, honey nose; tart pear, honeyed, waxy palate; medium finish (57% Grenache Blanc, 20% Viognier, 14% Marsanne, 9% Roussanne) (89 pts.)
2010 AmByth Estate Decorus – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Light medium yellow color; poached pear, apple nose; oxidized apple, poached pear, light cinnamon palate; medium finish 87+ points (60% Viognier, 18% Roussanne, 18% Marsanne, 4% Grenache Blanc) (87 pts.)
2009 AmByth Estate Adamo – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Medium cherry red color; ripe red berry, honey nose; ripe red berry, floral, honey palate; medium-plus finish (59% Grenache, 17% Mourvedre, 13% Syrah, 11% Counoise) (88 pts.)
2009 AmByth Estate ReVera – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Medium cherry red color; tart red berry, tart cherry nose; tart red berry, tart cherry palate; medium finish (57% Mourvedre, 22% Grenache, 11% Syrah, 10% Counoise) (89 pts.)
2009 AmByth Estate Maiestas – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Medium dark cherry red color; tart red berry, red currant nose; tart red berry, red currant, herbs palate; medium-plus finish (45% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre, 20% Counoise, 15% Grenache) (89 pts.)
Andrew Murray
2010 Andrew Murray RGB Camp 4 Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
Light yellow color; tart citrus, apple nose; tart citrus, apple palate; medium finish (87 pts.)
2009 Andrew Murray Syrah Tous les Jours – USA, California, Central Coast
Dark ruby color; tart red berry, pepper nose; tart red berry, pepper palate; medium-plus finish 89+ points (decent value at $16) (89 pts.)
2009 Andrew Murray Espérance – USA, California, Central Coast
Medium dark ruby color; cinnamon, tart red fruit nose; cinnamon, tart red fruit palate; medium-plus finish (60% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre) (88 pts.)
2009 Andrew Murray Syrah Terra Bella Vineyard Paso Robles – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Dark ruby color; tart plum, herbs nose; tart plum, herbs, pepper palate; medium-plus finish 90+ points (90 pts.)
2010 Andrew Murray Syrah Watch Hill Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
Dark ruby color; tart currant, brett, olive nose; tart currant, brett, olive, pepper palate; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
2009 Andrew Murray Grenache Terra Bella Vineyard Paso Robles – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Medium dark ruby color; tart red berry, baked berry nose; tart red berry, baked berry palate; medium-plus finish (90 pts.)
Anglim
Anglim was responsible for some of the better whites of the tasting, and a good rosé. The reds were less impressive.
2010 Anglim Viognier Bien Nacido Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
Very light green-tinged yellow color; tart pear, floral nose; tasty, tart pear, floral palate; medium-plus finish 91+ points (very good Viognier) (91 pts.)
2008 Anglim Cameo – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Light green-tinged yellow color; intense, poached pear nose; poached pear, honey, slightly herbal, beeswax palate; medium-plus finish (78% Viognier, 15% Grenache Blanc, 7% Roussanne) (91 pts.)
2011 Anglim Rosé – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Light medium orange pink color; tart red berry, currant nose; tart currant palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (90 pts.)
2008 Anglim Syrah La Montanita Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, San Luis Obispo County
Medium dark ruby color; maturing, smoky tart red berry nose; maturing, smoky, tart red berry, red currant palate; medium-plus finish 87+ points (87 pts.)
2008 Anglim Grenache – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Light red color with pale meniscus; brett nose; brett, tart currant palate; medium finish (86 pts.)
2008 Anglim Mourvedre Hastings Ranch – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Light medium red color; tart currant nose; tart currant, tart red plum, cinnamon palate; medium-plus finish (87 pts.)
B Cellars
2008 B Cellars Blend 25 – USA, California, Napa Valley
Dark ruby color; cedar, tart cassis nose; tasty, tight, tart cassis, cedar palate; medium-plus finish (63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Syrah) (91 pts.)
2008 B Cellars Syrah Caldwell’s Kreuzer Canyon – USA, California, Napa Valley
Opaque ruby color; tart roasted plum, wild berry nose; tasty, baked plum, baked berry, baking spice palate; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
Baiocchi
2011 Baiocchi Rosé – USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Fair Play
Light medium pink color; nice, tart currant, red berry nose; tasty, tart currant, red berry palate; medium-plus finish 90+ points (70% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre) (90 pts.)
2009 Baiocchi Grenache Entre Nous – USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Fair Play
Medium cherry red color; herbal, tart red berry, pepper nose; tasty, ripe red berry, ripe currant palate; medium-plus finish 90+ points (90 pts.)
2009 Baiocchi Syrah Sprezzatura – USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Fair Play
Medium dark ruby color; tart berry, tart plum nose; tight, tart berry, tart plum, smoke palate; needs 3-plus years; medium-plus finish 91+ points (91 pts.)
Big Basin
Big Basin was founded in 1988 in Santa Cruz Mountains next to Big Basin Redwoods State Park on a site that had originally planted to grapes in the early 1900s but that had been abandoned as a vineyard since 1965. Bradley Brown is the owner and winemaker. I’ve been very impressed by his Pinot Noirs, intensely flavored Syrahs and red blends over the years. The estate vineyards include Rattlesnake Rock (planted to Syrah) and Homestead (planted in 2007 to Grenache, Roussanne and Syrah). They also source from other vineyards, like Monterey County’s Coastview. With their estate vineyards, they keep the yields low and pick in blocks as the grapes from those blocks become fully ripe. Fermentation is with indigenous yeasts in small, open-top fermenters. The wine then goes into French oak for two to three years of aging. These are very reliable Syrahs, with the ’08 Coastview showing particularly well at the tasting.
2008 Big Basin Vineyards Syrah Rattlesnake Rock – USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Dark ruby color; roasted red berry, roasted plum nose; roasted red berry, roasted plum palate; medium-plus finish (27 mos. in barrel) (92 pts.)
2008 Big Basin Vineyards Syrah Coastview Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Monterey County
Slightly cloudy medium dark red violet color; tart berry, black fruit nose; tasty, spicy, tart plum, tart berry palate; medium-plus finish (27 mos. in barrel) (93 pts.)
2009 Big Basin Vineyards Homestead – USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Dark ruby color; nice floral, black raspberry, black fruit nose; tasty, black fruit, tart black cherry, tar palate; medium-plus finish 92+ points (46% Grenache, 43% Syrah, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon) (92 pts.)
2005 Big Basin Vineyards Syrah Rattlesnake Rock – USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
From magnum – lightly cloudy medium dark ruby color; smoky, roasted meat, herbed sausage nose; smoky roasted meat, rosemary palate; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
Campovida
2010 Campovida Viognier Estate Grown – USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
Light yellow color; tart peach, floral nose; tart peach, floral, roses, light pepper palate; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
2008 Talmage Marsanne Alder Springs Vineyard – USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
Light yellow color; intriguing, herbal, baked lemon nose; tasty, tart baked lemon, leesy, nutty, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (89 pts.)
2007 Mendocino Farms Grenache Dark Horse Ranch – USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
Light red color with pale meniscus; floral, tart red berry nose; intense, floral, tart red berry palate; needs 2 years; medium-plus finish (85 pts.)
2006 Mendocino Farms Syrah Fairbairn Ranch – USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
Very dark red violet color; maturing, tart red berry, red currant nose; maturing, tart red berry, red currant palate; medium-plus finish (87 pts.)
Chateau Ste. Michelle
2010 Chateau Ste. Michelle Viognier – USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
Light yellow color; floral, tart peach nose; tasty, tart peach, floral palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (good value at $15) (91 pts.)
2009 Chateau Ste. Michelle Austral Limited Release – USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Wahluke Slope
Dark ruby color; ripe berry, roses nose; ripe berry, carbonic maceration, ripe black fruit palate; medium-plus finish (blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre) (87 pts.)
2007 Chateau Ste. Michelle Boréal – USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
Opaque red violet color; roasted plum, tart black fruit nose; roasted plum, sweet smoke, spice palate; medium-plus finish (88 pts.)
2009 Chateau Ste. Michelle Mourvedre – USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
Dark ruby color; tart black fruit, tart currant nose; tight, tart currant, tart red berry, light pepper palate; medium-plus finish 88+ points (88 pts.)
2008 Chateau Ste. Michelle Syrah Ethos Reserve – USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
Opaque purple red violet color; nice roasted plum, roasted berry nose; roasted plum, roasted berry, baked berry palate; needs 3-plus years; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
Clavo Cellars
2010 Clavo Cellars Amore Rose – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Light pink color; tart cherry, hibiscus nose; unusual, tart red currant, rosehips palate; medium finish (86 pts.)
2010 Clavo Cellars Grenache Blanc Oracle – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Lemon cream, apple nose; lemon cream, apple palate; medium finish (88 pts.)
2010 Clavo Cellars Viognier Apparition – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Very light yellow color; ripe apple, tart pear nose; tart pear, tart apple, light cinnamon palate; medium-plus finish (1/2 cement, 1/2 neutral puncheons) (89 pts.)
2009 Clavo Cellars Petite Sirah Dreamer – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Very dark red violet color; reticent, tart black fruit, fig nose; tart black fruit prune palate; medium-plus finish 88+ points (88 pts.)
2008 Clavo Cellars Syrah Reckless Moment – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Dark red violet color; red berry, cinnamon nose; red berry, cinnamon palate; medium-plus finish (87 pts.)
Clayhouse
2010 Clayhouse Vineyard Grenache Blanc Red Cedar Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Light yellow color; tart citrus, grapefruit nose; tasty, tart citrus, light grapefruit palate; medium finish (90 pts.)
2009 Clayhouse Vineyard Syrah – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Medium dark ruby color; tart plum, roasted red fruit nose; tart red plum, ripe currant palate; medium-plus finish 90+ points (90 pts.)
2009 Clayhouse Vineyard Petite Sirah Old Vines Red Cedar Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Very dark ruby color; reduction, tart black fruit nose; tight, tart black fruit, herbs palate with good acidity; medium-plus finish (15 mos. in oak; 40 yr old vines) (88 pts.)
2008 Clayhouse Vineyard Petite Sirah Estate Show Pony Red Cedar Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Very dark ruby color; intense, ripe plum, ripe currant, raisin nose; tasty, raisin, ripe black fruit, wild berry palate; medium-plus finish (20 mos. in oak; showed much better than at last month’s PS I Love You event) (90 pts.)
2006 Clayhouse Vineyard Petite Sirah Late Harvest – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
From 375 ml – opaque red violet color; port, anise, berry nose; tasty, port-like, anise, ripe berry, pepper palate; long finish (showed much better, with less obvious oak, than the bottle I sampled at PS I Love You the previous month) (91 pts.)
Donelan
Donelan was founded by owner Joe Donelan, and originally named Pax after its first winemaker, Pax Mahle, who parted ways with Donelan in 2008 and set up his Wind Gap label. The new name, Donelan, was adopted at the end of 2009. The current winemaker is Tyler Thomas, pictured above. The concentrated, very flavorful style Mahle originated has been continued by Thomas, using most of the same fruit sources they started with under Mahle. The Syrah Walker Vine Hill was particularly impressive.
2010 Donelan Venus – USA, California, North Coast, Bennett Valley
Floral, peach, honeysuckle nose; tart peach, floral palate; medium-plus finish (pricey at $45) (89 pts.)
2009 Donelan Cuvée Moriah – USA, California, Sonoma County
Medium dark ruby color; tart red berry, red currant, pepper nose; tart red berry, red currant, pepper palate; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
2009 Donelan Syrah Cuvée Christine – USA, California, Sonoma County
Very dark purple red violet color; tart black fruit, roasted black fruit, smoke nose; tight, tart black fruit, smoke, tar palate; medium-plus finish 92+ points (92 pts.)
2009 Donelan Syrah Walker Vine Hill – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Opaque purple red violet color; violets, tart black fruit, roasted plum nose; violets, tart black fruit, roasted plum palate; needs 3 years; medium-plus finish (93 pts.)
Edward Sellers
2009 Edward Sellers Vineyards and Wines Le Passage Estate – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Light yellow color; vivid, ripe peach, pear nose; tasty, ripe pear, peach, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (43% Grenache Blanc, 36% Roussanne, 21% Marsanne) (91 pts.)
2008 Edward Sellers Vineyards and Wines Le Thief – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Medium dark ruby color; tart cherry, carbonic maceration, tart orange nose; tart orange, tart berry, tart black fruit palate; medium-plus finish (56% Syrah, 26% Mourvedre, 20% Grenache, 6% Cinsault) (89 pts.)
2007 Edward Sellers Vineyards and Wines Vertigo – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Medium dark cherry red color; brett, tart red berry nose; brett, tart berry palate; medium-plus finish (71% Grenache, 16% Mourvedre, 13% Syrah) (88 pts.)
2007 Edward Sellers Vineyards and Wines Syrah Sélectionné – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Opaque red violet color; roast plum, currant, ripe currant nose; roast plum, currant, tart black fruit, violets palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish 91+ points (91 pts.)
Folin Cellars
2011 Folin Cellars Viognier – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Rogue Valley
Light yellow color; tart apple, floral nose; floral, tart peach, tart apple palate; medium finish 88+ points (88 pts.)
2008 Folin Cellars Syrah – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Rogue Valley
Opaque red violet color; deep, tart black fruit, chocolate nose; tart black fruit, chocolate palate, a little hot; medium-plus finish (89 pts.)
2009 Folin Cellars Misceo – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Rogue Valley
Medium dark red color; tobacco, smoke nose; smoke, tobacco, tart red plum palate; medium-plus finish 88+ points (50% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre, 20% Grenache) (88 pts.)
2010 Folin Cellars Petite Sirah – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Rogue Valley
Opaque red violet color; smoke, tart black fruit, reduction nose; tight, tangy, tart black fruit palate with medium acidity; needs 3-4 years; medium-plus finish (88 pts.)
Halter Ranch
2011 Halter Ranch Cotes de Paso Blanc – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Light green-tinged yellow color; tart lime, tart green apple nose; tart green apple, citrus palate; medium finish (87 pts.)
2011 Halter Ranch Rosé – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Tart currant, light cinnamon nose; tart currant palate; medium finish 88+ points (88 pts.)
2009 Halter Ranch Cotes de Paso – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Medium dark ruby color; tart red berry, smoke nose; tart red berry, smoke palate with a sense of grape skins; medium-plus finish 87+ points (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Tannat and Counoise) (87 pts.)
2009 Halter Ranch Syrah – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Dark ruby color; tart black fruit, tar, charcoal nose; tart black fruit, tar, charcoal palate; medium-plus finish (89 pts.)
Jemrose
Jim Mack and Keith Jaffee are the proprietors of Jemrose. Michael Browne, of Kosta Browne, is the winemaker, and Greg Bjornstad is the viticulturalist. Their four vineyards are located in Sonoma County’s Bennett Valley AVA, largely on hillsides, with elevations from 500 to 1000 feet. I’ve been impressed with these wines from the beginning of this project, and they continue to show well. The unusual Syrah/Merlot blend, Gloria’s Gem, is particularly good, plush and delicious.
2009 Jemrose Viognier Egret Pond – USA, California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley
Light yellow color; floral, lifted, honeysuckle, tart peach nose; tasty, tart peach, baked peach, honeysuckle palate; medium finish (91 pts.)
2008 Jemrose Grenache Foggy Knoll – USA, California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley
Medium cherry red color; baked cherry, berry nose; oak, baked cherry, red berry palate; needs 2 years; medium-plus finish (w/5% Viognier; 10% new French oak) (90 pts.)
2008 Jemrose Syrah Cardiac Hill Bennett Valley – USA, California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley
Dark ruby color; tart roasted plum, pie crust nose; tasty, rich, baked plum, roasted fruit, tar, tart black fruit palate; medium-plus finish 92+ points (5 clones of Syrah; 20 mos. in French oak, 80% new; 30% whole cluster) (92 pts.)
2008 Jemrose Gloria’s Gem – USA, California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley
Dark ruby color; nice baked berry, ripe plum, pie crust nose; tasty, rich, plush, ripe red plum, cherry, berry palate; medium-plus finish (55% Syrah, 45% Merlot; 20 mos. in French oak, 50% new) (93 pts.)
L’Aventure
Stephan Asseo’s L’Aventure is well known, and among the best producers in the Paso Robles AVA. Stephan started making wine in his native France in 1982, following his education at L’Ecole Oenologique de Macon in Burgundy. He first established Domaine Courteillac in Bordeaux, and he and his family later purchased Chateau Fleur Cardinal in Saint-Emilio and Chateau Robin in the Cotes de Castillion. After 15 years in Bordeaux, he felt constrained by the limitations of the AOC rules, and went searching around the world for a new location to make the wines he envisioned. That search led him to Paso Robles, whose terroir most impressed him. In planting his vineyards, he used a high density scheme of 2,100 plants per acre. The Côte à Côte is a Rhone blend, whereas the Estate Cuvée and another primary bottling, the Optimus, are blends of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, something Stephan couldn’t legally do in Bordeaux. These ’09s were a strong return to form after the somewhat disappointing ’08s.
2009 L’Aventure Côte-à-Côte Estate – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Opaque red violet color; tart black fruit nose with a sense of pepper; ripe berry, ripe black plum, light pepper palate; long finish (42% Grenache, 33% Syrah, 25% Mourvedre) (92 pts.)
2009 L’Aventure Estate Cuvée – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Opaque black red violet color; lifted, tart black fruit, herbs, tar nose; tight, tar, tart black fruit, roasted black fruit palate; needs 4-5 years; medium-plus finish (42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Syrah, 16% Petit Verdot) (93 pts.)
Martella
2010 Martella Grenache – USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Medium dark cherry red color; tart red berry, floral nose; juicy, tart red berry, floral palate; medium-plus finish (90 pts.)
2008 Martella Syrah Hammer – USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz County
Medium dark ruby color; pepper, tart plum, smoke nose; pepper, tart plum, smoke palate; medium-plus finish (88 pts.)
Martinelli
2006 Martinelli Syrah Hop Camp Vineyard – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Dark ruby color; appealing, roasted plum, roasted berry nose; roasted plum, roasted berry, tobacco palate; medium-plus finish 91+ points (91 pts.)
2008 Martinelli Syrah Lolita Ranch – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Dark ruby color; nice roasted berry, roast plum nose; tasty, roasted berry, roast plum palate; medium-plus finish 90+ points (90 pts.)
2008 Martinelli Syrah Vellutini Ranch – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Opaque ruby color; roasted berry, roast plum, smoke nose; roasted berry, roast plum, smoke, dark chocolate palate; medium-plus finish 90+ points (90 pts.)
Montemaggiore
2010 Montemaggiore 3 Divas Saralee’s Vineyard – USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
Light yellow color; tart citrus, tart pear nose; tart citrus, tart pear palate; medium finish (Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier) (90 pts.)
2009 Montemaggiore Syrah Syrafina – USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
Dark ruby color; tart plum, herbs nose; tart plum, herbs palate; needs 3 years; long finish 91+ points (91 pts.)
Mounts Family
2010 Mounts Family Winery Viognier – USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
Light yellow color; tart pear, mineral nose; tasty, tart pear, mineral, light pepper palate; medium finish (70% malolactic) (90 pts.)
2009 Mounts Family Winery Grenache The Terraces – USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
Dark ruby color; floral, tart berry nose; tart berry, floral palate; medium-plus finish (23 mos. in 50% new French oak) (90 pts.)
2009 Mounts Family Winery Syrah Estate Grown – USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
Dark ruby color; roasted plum, tart berry nose; roasted plum, tart berry palate; medium-plus finish 91+ points (w/4% Viognier) (91 pts.)
2007 Mounts Family Winery Petite Sirah Petasera – USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
Very dark ruby color; tart black fruit, mineral nose; tart berry, pepper, mineral palate; needs 5 years; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
Pear Valley
2009 Pear Valley Inspiration Pear Valley Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Medium dark red color; tart berry, pear nose; oak, red berry palate; medium finish (84 pts.)
2009 Pear Valley Grenache – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Light medium red color; tart red berry nose; simple, red berry palate; medium finish (86 pts.)
2007 Pear Valley Syrah Pear Valley Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Dark ruby color; oak, tart currant nose; oak, tart currant palate; medium finish (84 pts.)
Petrichor
2009 Petrichor Les Trois – USA, California, Sonoma County
Opaque red violet color; intriguing, tart red currant, reduction, red spice nose; tart red currant, roasted plum palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (1st vintage; 86% Syrah, 14% Grenache; 15% new oak, 50% whole cluster, 13.6% alcohol; very food friendly) (90 pts.)
2010 Petrichor Les Trois – USA, California, Sonoma County
Pre-release (Fall ’12 release) – opaque purple red violet color; pepper, tart black fruit, charcoal nose; tart black fruit, savory, pepper, roasted plum palate; medium-plus finish (84% Syrah, 16% Grenache) (91 pts.)
Pomar Junction
2010 Pomar Junction Vineyard Viognier – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Light yellow color; tart peach, apple nose; rounded, flavorful, floral, tart peach, tart pear palate; medium-plus finish 91+ points (very good Viognier) (91 pts.)
2010 Pomar Junction Vineyard Brooster Red Blend – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Dark ruby color; intense, tart currant, roast plum nose; tart currant, roast plum palate; medium-plus finish 87+ points (42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Zinfandel, 29% Syrah) (87 pts.)
2009 Pomar Junction Vineyard Syrah – USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
Dark red violet color; tart black fruit, blue fruit nose; tart black fruit, sweet smoke, sweet spice palate; needs 2 years; medium-plus finish 88+ points (88 pts.)
2009 Pomar Junction Vineyard Train Wreck – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Medium dark red violet color; tart black fruit, smoke nose; tart black fruit, smoke, blueberry, ripe black fruit palate; medium-plus finish (25% each Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Syrah and Petite Sirah) (89 pts.)
Qualia/Pavo
2009 Qualia Wines Syrah Grenache – USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
Dark ruby color; hickory smoke, tart black fruit, charcoal nose; tasty, hickory smoke, tart black fruit, charcoal, tar palate; medium-plus finish (60% Syrah, 39% Grenache, 1% Zinfandel) (91 pts.)
2009 Pavo Syrah Estate – USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
Very dark ruby color; lifted, tart currant, tart black fruit, roasted plum nose; tart currant, tart black fruit, roasted plum, light pepper palate; medium-plus finish 92+ points (30% whole cluster; 25% new oak) (92 pts.)
Quivira
2011 Quivira Rosé North Coast – USA, California, North Coast
Light orange pink color; tart pink grapefruit, mineral nose; tasty, tart pink grapefruit, mineral palate with good acidity; medium-plus finish 91+ points (51% Mourvedre, 18% Carignane, 18% Counoise, 7% Grenache, 6% Syrah) (91 pts.)
2009 Quivira Grenache Wine Creek Ranch – USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
Light medium cherry red color; tart red fruit nose with a sense of pepper; light-bodied, tart red fruit, pepper, mineral palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (95% Grenache, 5% Mourvedre; aged in 500 liter oak puncheons and large foudres) (90 pts.)
2009 Quivira Elusive – USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
Medium cherry red color; smoke, tart red fruit nose; smoke, tart red fruit, mineral, light pepper palate; medium-plus finish 90+ (55% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre) (90 pts.)
2009 Quivira Mourvedre Wine Creek Ranch – USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
Medium cherry red color; tart red fruit, hibiscus, herbs nose; tart red fruit, hibiscus, herbs palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish 88+ points (w/12% Grenache) (88 pts.)
2009 Quivira Petite Sirah Wine Creek Ranch – USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
Opaque purple red violet color; nice, complex, roasted plum, tart black fruit, berry nose; tasty, tart black fruit, roasted plum, licorice palate with good acidity; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
Qupé/Verdad/No Limit
Qupé is the Chumash Indian word for the California poppy. Their label design sports an Arts and Crafts period design with a poppy in the center that also looks a lot like a glass of wine. The proprietor/winemaker is Bob Lindquist, one of California’s Rhone Ranger pioneers. Bob’s first job in the wine business was working the 1975 harvest at Fortino Winery near Gilroy. He moved to Ventura County to take a job managing a tasting room, and then to Santa Ynez to manage a retail wine shop. That led to working at Zaca Mesa, first as a wine tour director, and then in the cellar, under Zaca Mesa’s then assistant winemaker Jim Clendenen. Bob started Qupé in 1982 by buying grapes and barrels and making his wine at Zaca Mesa. In 1989 Bob joined with Clendenen (who had started Au Bon Climat in 1982) to build a winery facility of their own under a lease agreement with the Bien Nacido Vineyard. Bob’s two sons, Ethan and Luke, are now also winemakers, and Ethan’s ’08 No Limit Syrah was very good at this tasting in a rich, concentrated style. (Ethan’s pictured above next to Bob.) Bob is also a partner in Verdad, a winery dedicated to Spanish varieties produced by his wife, Louisa. Louisa was responsible for the lovely rosé I sampled at this tasting. In 2005, Bob and Louisa planted 40 acres at their 80-acre ranch in the Edna Valley near San Luis Obispo, which is now the Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard. Bob has long made terrific Syrahs as well as some of California’s best Chardonnays from the Central Coast.
2011 Qupé Marsanne – USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
Light yellow color; tart grapefruit, tart peach nose; tart peach, citrus palate; medium-plus finish (w/21% Roussanne) (89 pts.)
2011 Qupé Roussanne Hillside Estate Bien Nacido Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
Light-medium green-tinged yellow color; tart green fruit, smoke nose; tart green fruit, baked white peach, lanolin palate; medium-plus finish 90+ points (90 pts.)
2010 Qupé Grenache Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
Medium ruby color; tart red fruit, cinnamon, light pepper nose; tart red fruit, currant, white pepper, hibiscus palate with medium acidity; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
2009 Qupé Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
Dark ruby color; roasted black fruit, smoke, savory nose; tasty, tart black fruit, roasted plum, mineral, light pepper palate; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
2009 Qupé Syrah Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
Medium ruby color; pepper, very savory, charcoal nose; tasty, savory, tart black fruit, tobacco, roasted meat palate; medium-plus finish (93 pts.)
2009 Qupé Syrah Sonnie’s Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
Medium cherry red color; hibiscus, tart red fruit, pepper nose; very peppery, cigar box, tobacco palate; medium-plus finish 93+ points (93 pts.)
2011 Verdad Grenache Rosé Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
Light medium pink color; tart pink grapefruit, tart orange nose; tasty, tart orange, tart citrus, mineral, chalk palate; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
2008 No Limit Wines Syrah The Nuts Sawyer Lindquist – USA, California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
Dark ruby color; intense, roasted plum, savory, roast meat nose; tasty, tart plum, roasted meat, bacon, savory palate; medium-plus finish (93 pts.)
2007 Qupé Syrah Bien Nacido Hillside Estate – USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
Medium dark ruby color; tart black fruit, clove nose; soft, tasty, maturing, tart black fruit, clove palate; medium-plus finish 91+ points (91 pts.)
Robert Hall
2010 Robert Hall Grenache Blanc – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Light yellow color; tart pear, tart citrus nose; tart citrus, tart pear palate medium finish (88 pts.)
2010 Robert Hall Viognier – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Light green-tinged yellow color; tart citrus, mineral nose; white pepper, tart citrus, lemon, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 90+ points (90 pts.)
2008 Robert Hall Rhone De Robles – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Dark red violet color; floral, tart cherry nose; tart cherry, red berry palate; medium-plus finish 88+ points (Grenache, Syrah & Cinsault; 12 mos. in oak) (88 pts.)
2009 Robert Hall Syrah – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Dark red violet color; roasted plum, red berry nose; tart red berry, tart plum palate; medium-plus finish (18 mos. oak) (89 pts.)
2008 Robert Hall Pape de Robles – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Dark ruby color; roasted berry, black fruit, pepper nose; tart black fruit, pepper, clove, herbs palate; medium-plus finish (51% Grenache, 22% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre, 12% Petite Sirah) (89 pts.)
Rosenblum
2009 Rosenblum Cellars Viognier Kathy’s Cuvée – USA, California
Light lemon yellow color; medium-plus bodied, ripe pineapple, peach nose; ripe pineapple, tart peach, apricot palate; medium finish (87 pts.)
2009 Rosenblum Cellars Grenache Rhodes Vineyard – USA, California, North Coast, Redwood Valley
Medium cherry red color; ripe berry, grenadine syrup nose; tart berry, grenadine syrup, orange palate; medium finish (86 pts.)
2008 Rosenblum Cellars Syrah England-Shaw – USA, California, North Coast, Solano County
Medium dark red color; roasted plum, black fruit, licorice nose; tart black fruit, tar, licorice palate; medium-plus finish (90 pts.)
Sanglier Cellars
“Sanglier” is the word for wild boar in French. Proprietors Glenn and Melissa Alexander purchased their old farmhouse and eight acres of 40 year old Zin vines in the east end of the Russian River Valley in 2001. Glenn then worked at Napa’s Chateau Montelena while completing the viticulture program at Santa Rosa College. He then interned with Preston Vineyards and spent a year working with a vineyard manager before starting his own vineyard management firm. His company, Bacchus Vineyard Management, now farms and manages over 400 acres of vineyards for wineries such as Copain, Kosta Browne and Paul Hobbs. In 2006 the Alexanders decided to make wine from one of the vineyards Glenn managed, Kemp Vineyards. They have since brought their two children in as owners and to help expand winemaking operations. The winemaker is Russell Bevan, who always does an extraordinary job with all of his projects. The results are very strong for a newish producer. I enjoyed all of the wines, from the rosé to the red blends and Syrah.
2011 Sanglier Cellars Rosé du Tusque – USA, California, Sonoma County
Medium dark onion skin color; nice tart orange, tart blood orange nose; tasty, tart orange, mineral palate with good acidity; medium-plus finish 91+ points (very good rosé; blend of Grenache, Mourvedre and Carignan) (91 pts.)
2009 Sanglier Cellars Syrah Kemp Vineyards – USA, California, Sonoma County
Very dark ruby color; lifted, tart berry, black fruit, black cherry nose; tasty, poised, tart black fruit, tart berry, ripe black fruit palate; medium-plus finish 92+ points (92 pts.)
2009 Sanglier Cellars Boar’s Camp – USA, California, Sonoma County
Dark ruby color; tart plum, savory nose; tart black fruit, tar palate with good acidity; medium-plus finish 91+ points (91 pts.)
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