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Retinol is hailed as this wonder ingredient for fighting signs of ageing, but it can be pretty confusing to work out when and how to use it. Add to this that it’s long been associated with skin irritation, and it’s easy to see why loads of people shy away from it altogether.
I was definitely one of those people. I wanted something to combat my fine lines, but every time I tried a product with retinol I wound up with itchy, dry skin, and eventually abandoned the product out of frustration. But the thing is, retinol isn’t actually a scary ingredient – it’s just misunderstood, as I learnt from Emma Hobson, Education Manager for the International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica.
“This has to be one of my favorite ingredients right now,” Emma said. “Retinol is considered to be one of the best performing ingredients to effectively address the signs of premature ageing and photo damaged skin.” Ok, I’m listening…
Paula’s Choice Clinical 1% Retinol Treatment, $78
How does it work?
“Retinol is part of the Vitamin A family, it’s known as the normalising vitamin as it’s fantastic at supporting the skin’s functions,” Emma explained. “Our clever skin has the ability to convert Retinol into another form of Vitamin A called Retinoic Acid. This triggers our cells to stimulate collagen and elastin, and normalise and repair the healthy functioning of our skin cells.”
Basically, this Retinoic Acid encourages the production of healthy, younger cells, so it’s speeding up the process of skin renewal. Sounds good, right? Younger looking skin over time? Sign. Me. Up. But it gets even better.
“Retinol also helps reduce the breakdown of healthy collagen from UV exposure, whilst in tandem it stimulates the production of new collagen,” Emma explained. Helloooo, plumper looking skin. “It also inhibits the production of the skin pigment melanin, which means it’s very effective on improving skin discolouration and lightening brown spots.”
Um, can you do any more good things, Retinol? Apparently, yes. “Retinol also works from the deeper layers of the skin upwards unlike Hydroxy Acid exfoliants. The result of the action of Retinol on the skin being a much denser, plumper, more hydrated skin with reduced wrinkle depth, improved skin tone and an overall healthier, luminous glow.”
Verso @ Mecca Super Facial Oil with Retinol 8, $286
I’m sold! Brb, buying all things involving Retinol…
Here’s where things get a bit trickier. If you don’t use Retinol correctly, you run the risk of irritating your skin. Not like, burning your whole face off. Just that kind of itchy, dry, uncomfortable sensation that makes you hurl a product across the Atlantic sea and vow to never touch it again, y’know?
“The key with Retinol is building tolerance. Your skin needs to get accustomed to the product, allowing it time to build the mechanisms within the skin which allow the Retinol to work, but without causing any associated skin redness, irritation or dryness,” explained Emma. That’s why if you go hard with the retinol, you might wind up hating it. It’s all about easing in.
Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair 0.5% with Buffer Cream, $135
So what do I buy, then?
Retinol products come in percentages. The strongest non-prescription available is 1%, but Emma advises not going that far first-go. “I’d suggest starting with a 0.5% cream that allows you to build your skin tolerance, and mixing it with a buffer cream initially.” A buffer cream is basically a moisturiser that doesn’t contain any active ingredients, so you can mix your Retinol treatment with your night time moisturiser if it’s a low-key one, or some Retinol products come with their own buffer cream.
If you’re wanting to use it around your eyes, go for an even lower percentage. “The skin is very delicate and fine in texture around the eyes, and easily prone to sensitisation. Therefore ensure you use products specifically designed for the eye area when looking for a Retinol treatment for them,” Emma explained.
Another important note? PACKAGING. “Retinol as an ingredient is extremely volatile in nature, it’s not easy to stabilise within a product,” explained Emma. “Great care needs to be taken to protect its integrity and keep it active. It’s for this reason Retinol needs to be housed within a protective carrier system, the more sophisticated the better.” Emma prefers a nozzle-nosed tube type of packaging for maximum protection of the Retinol.
Sunday Riley @ Mecca Luna Sleeping Night Oil, $158
Can I use it daily?
Emma advises to start slowly, so you can see what your skin tolerance for Retinol is. “If you introduce Retinol at a lower dosage, slowly and intermittently (not daily), with the correct product choice, even those with skin sensitivity can use Retinol,” Emma explained. “Once tolerance is built you can then start to increase the usage and strength on a week to week or day to day basis, according to what your skins happy with.”
The best time to apply Retinol is at night, for two reasons. One – Retinol is easily damaged by sunlight. And two – our skin is in repair and regeneration mode while we sleep, so it’s in a prime position to allow the Retinol to work it’s magic.
Dermalogica Age Reversal Eye Complex with 0.1% Retinol, $94.50
Are there any rules?
A couple. “Caution must be used if you are pregnant or breastfeeding, as it is advised to avoid the various forms of active Vitamin A, therefore consult with your physician,” Emma says. She also advises not to use Retinol based products for at least 72 hours if you have recently waxed, lasered or exfoliated the skin, and don’t apply on sunburnt skin either. Also, while there’s no real minimum age for Retinol, it’s best for fighting visible signs of ageing – although it can also be used for treatment of acne in younger skin, but that’s something you’re best consulting a skin specialist about before trying it.
Have you tried and loved a product with Retinol in it? Let us know in the comments! x