This may sound odd on first impression Primpers, but my mama sits in a bottle on my dressing table. A sleek cobalt blue and metallic silver beauty that encapsulates her very essence: a spontaneous, energetic spirit (jasmine and citrus), a beguiling contrast of feminine beauty (rose and gardenia) and masculine strength (vetiver and oakmoss), and an all-enveloping warmth (musk and sandalwood) that comforts more than a triple chocolate mousse and espresso martini (preferably both taken at once!). My mum is YSL Rive Gauche to me; that heady French woody floral that lingers in the background of every single memory we’ve made together because never a day went by that she went without it. Such is the seductive power of scent: one whiff can take you to nostalgia-ville in a flash. It’s called retro-olfaction. And it’s magic.
I’m not alone in spritzing my way down memory lane with euphoric abandon – retro fragrances are back in vogue, Primpers, and experts predict our noses will be drawn towards anything that takes us back in time: gardenia, tuberose, rose and jasmine are riding a vintage fragrance boom. Chances are your mum and gran wore these gorgeous florals at some point in the past and, even when reinvented in a modern scent, they’ll still likely trigger a fond flashback to days gone by. Because one thing we do know – perfume and emotion go hand-in-hand. Handy really, as Mother’s Day looms and what better gift to give than a bottle of happy memories past?!
Perfumes are totally personal of course – what you desire or detest is intrinsically linked to the memory or experience a particular smell evokes – but here’s our pick of the prettiest vintage (or vintage-esque) scents that revive the high notes of each bygone decade. One (or more!) is sure to make mum swoon:
1940s: Nina Ricci L’Air Du Temps 30ml, $95, from department stores.
Emotion is always the best catalyst for creating a moving fragrance and L’Air Du Temps will forever be remembered as capturing the great post-war liberation high (complete with a lid of white doves to act as a symbol of lasting peace!). Its carnation heart, refined with notes of rose and jasmine, makes it a timeless spicy floral classic to this day. Spritz your heart out, Primpers – it’s unbridled joy in a bottle!
1950s: Miss Dior Cherie Eau de Parfum 50ml, $130, from department stores.
Exquisitely feminine, this modern take on the original green chypre with jasmine at its core is quite different to the first Miss Dior (notes of caramelised popcorn and strawberry sorbet add a modern gourmand twist!), yet its essence is much the same: It’s fun. It’s totally charming. It’s youth in a bottle. Who could resist!?
1960s: Estee Lauder Youth Dew 67ml, $85, from department stores.
After the prim and proper 50s came the decade of newfound freedom. On the scent scene this mini revolution was largely triggered by Estee Lauder’s launch of Youth Dew, the first ever American fragrance. In fact, it was a first in many ways – spicier and more intense than the light florals of the past, suddenly a whole post-war generation of women were actively encouraged to embrace their sensuality and indulge themselves. For no good reason. Other than to feel good! It still retains its sensual, indulgent allure today. If you’re looking for a modern alternative, the house of Lauder’s latest fragrance, Modern Muse 30ml, $85, from department stores, captures that same kind of confidence-inspiring duality that harks back to this era: pretty feminine accords (jasmine) with a masculine woody strength lingering at its base.
1970s: Rive Gauche Eau de Toilette Spray 50ml, $95, from department stores.
Yves Saint Laurent once said, “Chanel freed women, and I empowered them.” And sure enough he kinda did – alongside the jumpsuits and lace-up safari jackets was born a new era of worldliness. An attractiveness that didn’t demand cinched-in elegance, but allowed your spirit (and lungs for that matter!) the chance to catch its corset-free breath. It’s the floral aldehydes that give Rive Gauche a certain haunting seductiveness that you just can’t quite put your finger on. Although today’s version is slightly softer than the original, it’s easily recognisable – gardenia, jasmine, magnolia and rose with an aromatic woody kick that still has avant-garde chic written all over it.
1980s: Opium Eau de Parfum Spray 50ml, $135, from department stores
Some say Opium may well have been the great precursor to the mood of excess that was to define this decade. Although it is technically a late 70s scent, Opium paved the way for the essence of the 80s: BIG. Big hair! Big shoulder pads! Big fragrances that made grand entrances (before their wearer!). This powerful classic has just been inducted into the Fragrance Hall of Fame and, although today’s version is a lighter take on the original, it still has the same unmistakable sensual mix of bergamot, jasmine and deep amber. It’s (officially!) forever a classic.
1990s: Thierry Mugler Angel Shooting Star Eau de Parfum Non-refillable 50ml, $135, from department stores
All these powerful woody oriental notes blazed the trail for a new generation of fragrances to unfold in the 90s: gourmand (AKA ‘this smells good enough to eat’). Mr Mugler apparently called upon his childhood memories when creating Angel (that’d be the chocolate, caramel and vanilla notes!) but always intended those tasty accords to be both delicious and devilish at the same time. It’s a scentual oriental that those who love, love (love love!) forever.
Right now: L’Occitane En Provence La Collection De Grasse Jasmine & Bergamote 75ml, $82, from au.loccitane.com
This scent is like a step back into a simpler place in time: it’s light (mandarin), fresh (just a hint of lemon) and feminine (a strong jasmine accord) that all blend beautifully in a natural, almost organic kind of way – think of it like a balmy Summer’s evening in the French Riviera. It’s the perfect bridge between the past and the present – a safe fragrance gift if ever there was!
Eva-Maria x
So, tell me Primpers…
Which fragrance instantly reminds you of your mum? Does she still wear it?
Is there a perfume here you’d like to introduce her to?