Looking for an amazing weekend or week-long travel experience filled with stunning art, delectable cuisine, convenient flight distance and delightful surprises? Pack your bags for Santa Fe, New Mexico.
Santa Fe is an eclectic fusion of Southwest history, iconic architecture, incredible museums (13 in all), contemporary and traditional art galleries (over 250), savory restaurants (250) and vibrant visual scenery. Indeed, with all there is to hear, see, smell, taste and feel, not a single sense will be left behind. I was fortunate that Portland Family was invited to experience a cultural slice of Santa Fe’s magnificence.
For starters, Santa Fe is one of those rare places where the past—as expressed in the architecture, art and traditions—seamlessly blends with the present. Discovered artifacts, from shells to hand-woven baskets, indicate that from as early as the 1200s (long before the Spanish arrived in the 16th century), Native Americans, including the Pueblo Indian tribes, called the Santa Fe region home. This diverse historical presence everywhere you go is part of what makes Santa Fe so charming, even among an abundance of contemporary culture and art.
Day 1
After flying 2.5 hours direct from Portland to Albuquerque, and then being transported by shuttle for about an hour, the adventure began when I arrived at the Hotel Santa Fe. This property claims to be the only local Native American–owned hotel. It’s a gorgeous adobe-style property, with over 160 beautifully furnished, well-appointed rooms located in historic downtown.
The lobby is adorned with giant wooden pillars, Native American rugs, vivacious Southwest art and a large, circular, traditional wood-burning fireplace for people to gather around. On site, there is even an authentic teepee, where two to six guests can have a private Amaya meal experience, with diners gathered on traditional hides and blankets to enjoy native cuisine.
One of the amenities I utilized at the Hotel Santa Fe was the spa. This was one of the prettiest, most feminine spas I’ve ever had the pleasure of visiting. I loved the giant decorative wall of white rocks, the sparkling crystal in the reception area, and the delicate pastel paintings of drifting clouds in the halls and treatment rooms. I received a 60-minute cielo massage, the therapist blending both firm and gentle handwork; the treatment left me feeling replenished, not sore.
Once relaxed and freshened up, I was transported along with the other travel writers to a cocktail reception at the 4-diamond Eldorado Hotel & Spa, featuring 219 guest rooms. Here we met key staff from the Santa Fe Convention and Visitors Bureau, and received an overview of all the art galleries and year-round events that make Santa Fe so distinctive.
As we sipped tasty adult beverages in this chic hotel’s Agave Lounge, we watched a local artist create a painting, then toured the hotel’s notable local and Native American art collection. I knew from our hosts’ hospitality and genuine passion for their city that the next few days—featuring a packed itinerary—would be fantastic. I look forward to staying at the Eldorado Hotel & Spa next time I visit.
Day 2
The next morning we all met at another iconic Santa Fe property, La Posada. This gorgeous hotel is draped in history. Known as “The Art Hotel of Santa Fe,” La Posada actively curates American paintings and sculptures. All displayed works are available for sale at the artists’ studio prices.
Over breakfast, we heard from delegates about Santa Fe’s Art Trifecta, an impressive collaboration of three established art organizations—the International Folk Art Market, ART Santa Fe and SITE Santa Fe—that connects three distinct art events during one week in July.
The International Folk Art Market, a colorful event held outdoors on Museum Hill that just celebrated its 11th year, is considered unparalleled. It brings to Santa Fe artisans from some of the most remote communities in the world to show and sell handmade works, such as baskets, metal and paper works, textiles and jewelry.
We learned that for some of the participating artists from poor, troubled countries such as Haiti, the International Folk Art Market provides individuals with income to help support them and their families for an entire year. It also ensures that indigenous art forms are kept alive. This festival is family-friendly and people from all over the world attend.
ART Santa Fe just celebrated its 14th year as an established international art fair. Over the course of a weekend, contemporary and modern art from Europe, Asia, North America and Latin America is showcased under a single roof of the convention center. Guests mingle with gallery owners, artists and luminaries about the art scene’s evolution and trends.
The third event in July runs through January 11, 2015, and is presented by SITE Santa Fe—known for its edgy, provocative exhibitions of contemporary art. Trendsetting guest lecturers and a collective of artists unite to transform 15,000 square feet of exhibition space. This year, SITE presented SITElines, a biennial exhibition set to a theme of “Unsettled Landscapes.” Participants included 45 artists and art collaborations from 16 countries across the Americas. SITE educates the public about contemporary art to engage dialogue about humanity, and remains accessible to diverse audiences.
After our morning meeting, we took a 30-minute drive just outside Santa Fe to the scenic outdoor Allan Houser compound. Allan Houser is one of the 20th century’s most notable Native American artists. He worked in all mediums, from paints to pencils, but is mostly known for his huge bronze and marble sculptures depicting Native American traditions and lore. The garden has 10 acres of trails, which display 85 stunning outdoor works from the family collection. Members of the family give public tours. When you come for a visit to Santa Fe, the Allan Houser sculpture garden is a must.
While you’re out this direction, head along the scenic turquoise trail to the little arts town of Madrid, and stop at the funky Mineshaft Tavern for lunch. The décor is fun, food is made from scratch and with local ingredients whenever possible. Mineshaft Tavern is famous for using fire-roasted green chiles on their burgers. Also on site is a “ghost town” museum, with interesting historical artifacts from the coal mining days. The quaint town of Madrid is worth the stop, with cute gift and accessory shops and lots of opportunities to take scenic pictures.
We ventured back to town and capped off the day at one of Santa Fe’s most prestigious restaurants, Compound. Once an escape where movie stars and socialites could relax and remain incognito, this former collection of adobe homes has been converted into a restaurant. It’s located on Canyon Road, a Santa Fe hub for exclusive galleries and residences. Since reopening the restaurant in 2000, celebrity chef/owner Mark Kiffin has become a nationally awarded leader in Southwest cuisine.
As expected with any fine dining venue, menus change seasonally. I started my meal with a signature blood orange margarita, followed by an organic salad with blue cheese, crispy pancetta and avocado dressing. The main course was Alaskan halibut with a deliciously light broth, fingerling potatoes and roasted leek. I capped the meal and the night with liquid chocolate cake, made with Mexican hot chocolate and Kahlua ice cream. Compound is elegant, yummy and a must-visit when in Santa Fe.
Day 3
The next morning we were delivered to the Railyard area, a commercial, residential and communal district occupying 50 downtown acres. There is an actual train station here for the New Mexico RAIL Runner Express, which provides commuter service between Santa Fe and Albuquerque. Santa Fe Farmers Market is here on weekends, accompanied by outdoor musical performances. The 13-acre Railyard Park at the south end includes a plaza, pedestrian promenade and children’s play areas. Surrounding the Railyard are dozens of contemporary art galleries perfect for strolling through and experiencing a mind-boggling world of diverse, thought-provoking art.
After touring over a dozen distinct art galleries, we traveled about 15 minutes outside of town to check into the superb Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort & Spa, where we stayed the next few nights. As close as it is to town, the resort feels a million miles away, fully immersed in the stunning Tesuque Valley of northern New Mexico. You’re surrounded by national forest and the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, beneath a turquoise sky.
Bishop’s Lodge is a secluded natural sanctuary ideal for family travel. Over 450 acres of scenic trails are ideal for horseback riding, hiking and mountain biking. In the summer season, guests can enjoy yoga and enrichment classes as well as cowboy cookouts. Kids can choose from sports programs including tennis, football, basketball and swimming.
There’s a spectrum of accommodations for singles, couples, families and groups, from traditional rooms to fully equipped suites and villas. Here, surrounded by forest, guests can experience the ambiance of the Southwest and the hospitality of Bishop Lodge’s exceptional service and extra on-site recreational amenities.
Located not far from Bishop Lodge is the newer 5-star Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado, an exclusive property with stunning valley views. We had the privilege of enjoying dinner at Terra, the on-site restaurant, presided over by acclaimed Four Seasons chef Andrew Cooper. The restaurant is elegant and thoughtfully decorated, with a combination of modern and classic elements to show off the wall of windows and beautiful views. The superlative setting is only rivaled by Terra’s mouth-watering cuisine.
I enjoyed one of the best meals I’ve had in recent memory, thanks to Chef Cooper pulling out all the creative stops. My meal included green chile–braised short ribs and smoked pumpkin purée; parsnip bisque with made-from-scratch apple butter; pan-seared scallops with celery root purée, poached pear and salsa verde. I was wowed by Cooper’s down-to-earth demeanor, his attention to culinary detail and insistence on using sustainable ingredients. The night, meal and setting were unforgettable.
Day 4
The following day was all about art and artifact, as we checked out Museum Hill, where four of Santa Fe’s most popular museums reside: The Museum of Spanish Colonial Art; Museum of Indian Arts & Culture; Museum of International Folk Art; and Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian. It’s exciting that these cultural beacons share collective acreage and walking proximity.
The Museum of Indian Arts & Culture is thought-provoking and comprehensive. Their mission is to inspire appreciation for, and knowledge of, the diverse native arts, histories, languages, and cultures of the greater Southwest. Over 75,000 objects are housed here, including some of the first artifacts collected from Southwest Native American communities.
The extensive pottery collection dates back to the mid-17th century, and features pieces from the Pueblo and other tribal communities of the Southwest. If you appreciate historical textiles and clothing, these collections are superb; in fact, the Navajo and Pueblo weavings are regarded as one of the finest American Southwest textile collections in the world. The Museum of Indian Arts & Culture is one of the most notable purveyors of cultural/historical contexts I’ve seen. The sheer volume of high-quality artifacts from early human communities is almost overwhelming. I loved it.
Right next door and not to be missed is the largest collection of folk art in the world, at the Museum of International Folk Art. This place is the most fun you’ll ever have getting educated about global cultures. Over 150,000 artifacts are spread across the various wings. There is a permanent core collection of 2,500 objects from 34 countries, donated by museum founder Florence Dibell Bartlett. Today, the total collection has grown to over 130,000 objects from over 100 countries.
In the Alexander Girard wing, you’ll spend hours gazing at one man’s dedication to folk art, as staged in a visual display of over 100,000 works, in the “Multiple Visions: A Common Bond” exhibit. All the items are fascinating, colorful, and fun; you’ll truly share a global kinship through the art.
No trip to Santa Fe would be complete without a trip to the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, opened in 1997 and the only museum in the United States dedicated to one of the world’s most renowned female artists. Many of O’Keeffe’s famous motifs of flowers, bones and landscapes were based on her visits to and time she lived in northern New Mexico. The museum has a collection of over 3,000 works, completed from 1901 to 1984, including 1,149 paintings, drawings and sculptures.
It’s fascinating to see O’Keeffe’s artistic progression from her very earliest days in New York to her later works, and seeing her range of skill up close is a real treat. There is a replication of her painting studio and kitchen that holds her actual tools and cookbooks, giving a rare window into how O’Keeffe liked to work and live. She was a fascinating, independent, trend-setting individual who changed the realm of women, art, and success. This museum is also a must-see.
To try and encapsulate all we saw and did in Santa Fe is tough, because the place is so much more than I ever imagined. It is an amalgam of striking landscapes, picturesque sunsets, defining architecture, exquisite cuisine, vast displays of traditional and modern art, an endless array of outdoor recreation, warm passionate people and deep connection to the human spirit.
If you crave adventure, vibrant experiences, delicious culinary delights and defining cultural moments, make Santa Fe your next stop for the art of inspiration.