When it comes to making ultimate travel dreams come true, a visit to the Republic of Fiji is most certainly an enchanted fairy tale. Spending time there left some of the most memorable, spiritual, healing impressions upon me out of anywhere I’ve ever visited. Perhaps it’s the dazzling, clear, electric-turquoise waters; the velvety soft white sand beneath your toes; the hypnotically sweet scent of vibrant tropical flowers or the ever-changing sky, filled by puffy transient clouds. Indeed, any of these would qualify as elements of a beautiful story.
Surprisingly though, the things that enchanted me the most were the raw sense of adventure there, the replenishment I felt being so far away from the stresses and responsibilities of daily life and above all, the authentic warmth and sweetness of the Fijian people. I was humbled, many times over, by how genuine Fijians are.
The Republic of Fiji is not a single place, but an archipelago of over 320 islands and 500 islets. Of these islands, 110 are permanently inhabited. Fiji covers 75,000 square miles, but only 10 percent of that is land. When people say they are “going to Fiji,” they could be going to experience an infinite number of island-type possibilities, from major condo communities to remote private houses, or even private-island resorts.
There are two main larger islands: Viti Levu and Vanua Levu. Nearly 860,000 people, or 90 percent of the population, live on these islands. The largest city is Suva, on Viti Levu. Due to very rugged land interior, about 75 percent of the residents live on Viti Levu’s coasts, either in Suva or in smaller urban communities like Nadi (pronounced “nan-dee”), where the primary international airport is located.
Fiji Airways, which recently celebrated its first anniversary, is the major airline carrier that takes you direct from Los Angeles to the islands in just over 10 hours. As the international airline of Fiji, they have been around since 1951 and are major contributors to the overall economic vitality of the region. With 1,009 employees all-inclusive, many of whom are Fijian, the airline takes great corporate pride in its cultural and historical roots.
Often partnering with and donating to many local, relevant causes such as environmental preservation and educational enhancement for Fijian children, Fiji Airways and its smaller inter-island subsidiary, Fiji LINK, are vital ties for keeping people connected throughout the many remote islands of the South Pacific and beyond.
Depending on where you go in Fiji, inter-island flights can be anywhere from 30 minutes to several hours from Nadi. Many destination resorts work with a private small aircraft and helicopter charter company, such as Island Hoppers. I visited three different island destinations in Fiji (Yasawa Island, Viti Levu and Vanua Levu), and I flew in a range of small aircraft, from tiny, to really tiny, to helicopter.
This transportation between islands is part of the adventure I mentioned earlier. I’m timid about flying, I don’t love it, and being in a smaller plane, over ocean, seemed like it might be stressful. But the scenery from above, of all the scattered islands and gorgeous coral reefs unique to this area of the South Pacific for hundreds of miles, is distractingly stunning. The contrasts in bright greens and deep blues and jagged edges of white sandy shoreline were like nothing I’d ever seen. I felt like a true jet setter, on top of the world. When you decide where in Fiji you want to go, have the resort or destination offer advice on inter-island travel coupled with ground transportation.
With the direct flight from Los Angeles, you will arrive in Nadi early in the morning, two days later than when you departed. For instance, I left Los Angeles at 11:30 p.m. on a Sunday night, and with the 19-hour time difference, I arrived around 6:30 a.m. on Tuesday. If you are going to another island and not staying somewhere on Viti Levu, it’s possible that connecting flights may not happen until later in the day. You could consider getting a day room, to freshen up, rest and orient yourself after a long journey.
I got a travel reprieve at the beautiful Fiji Orchid. It’s only 15 kilometers away from the airport and they offer free transportation. This relaxing resort was once the property of legendary actor Raymond Burr as well as his prized orchid collection. There are six private bures (huts), a pool, a fabulous restaurant and a massage service.
At the Fiji Orchid I had a fresh breakfast, showered, lounged in the garden pool and even took a catnap before catching the next flight to Yasawa Island Resort & Spa later that day. Having a dayroom was a nice way to catch my breath and get ready for the next adventure.
The 30-minute Island Hoppers flight to Yasawa Island Resort & Spa, Fiji was scheduled for the afternoon. There are 15 words in Fijian for the term “heaven” and Yasawa is the first. Yasawa Island Resort is certainly heaven; the most beautiful place I’ve ever been. The pictures I’ve wistfully admired over the years — of alabaster crescent beaches, lazy swaying palm trees, clear tropical waters — is nothing like being there, amongst those tropical icons.
Yasawa Island Resort is the only commercial development on the entire 22-kilometer-long island. It’s remote, untouched and luxurious. There are 18 stand-alone, secluded, spacious bures spread out along the beach, facing west. Each thatched-roof bure has a generous sun deck, large living spaces, high ceilings and private outdoor tree showers.
The grounds themselves are all-inclusive, with an open-air dining area and Manasa’s Bar, offering a 180-degree view of the ocean. A stay here includes all meals and beverages except alcohol. The food is centered around locally harvested fruits and fresh-caught fish, including lobster. I was up early one morning and by chance got to see the bounty the village fishermen had caught just as it arrived. The lobsters were the biggest I had ever seen, and rainbow colored. This encounter also gave me a glimpse into the ways Fijians in small villages subsist off the ocean.
The staff and owners of Yasawa have integrated the resort into the existing Fijian culture, rather than imposing the resort upon the villagers. The owners, James and Erin McCann have been part of Yasawa for 16 years, first as guests, then as staff, and eventually as owners. They fell in love with the pristine location and the lovely humility of the Fijian people. They now have two young children themselves (ages 2 and 8) who are being raised on Yasawa part-time, and in Nadi for the remainder.
The resort is staffed entirely by local Fijians, and was created as a non-exploitive goodwill gesture and labor of love to give the struggling villages a means of supporting themselves. Vital to the resort is Manasa Ragigia and his wife Wati, who are originally from the nearby Bukama village and have been with the property since it was being built in 1991. To this day, Manasa serves as the main liaison between the village chief and the resort. (For more on Manasa and the resort’s history, visit the travel website www.JetSetExtra.com and search “Fascinating History of Fiji’s Yasawa Island Resort.”)
As a guest, you experience authentic glimpses into the Fijian way of life and it’s difficult to define these glimpses’ ultimate, emotional, eye-opening impact. At the resort, there are weekly kava (a native drink) ceremonies, lovos (traditional Fijian meals/feasts) and meke (traditional dance) performances, where you’re welcomed into the singing, dancing, chanting and celebration.
There’s also a weekly visit to Bukama village that occurs through permission of the village chief. This is where you see how Fijian life is structured, without technology, without amenities and without the overwhelming influence of a modernized world. Aside from a humble church, there’s a small school where about 90 children attend, up to 8th grade. After that time, children go away to other nearby islands and stay with extended family until they complete their education.
I don’t want to say the Fijians are “simple,” because that’s not accurate. The people from surrounding villages have very little in the way of material comforts or even basic necessities. They would appear “poor” to most Western visitors, but this concept is perceived through our cultural lens. And yet, they are happy. They are warm. They are welcoming. Fijians are steeped in tradition and custom. They live off the land. Family and faith are the centers of their lives.
Yasawa Island Resort provides employment, and they also have a foundation called Manasa’s Foundation, which guests can contribute to in lieu of staff gratuities. Tipping is neither customary nor encouraged; instead it’s requested that at the end of your stay, you donate whatever you feel is appropriate to the foundation. Funds are used to buy school supplies for children, make repairs to the village and provide medical care, clean water and sanitation services.
Feeling like you’re part of the Fijian culture, if even for brief moments, is very different than being a typical tourist, and mearly observing it. This is what sets the stage for the sense of adventure, the soulful magic, so that when you’re on the glowing water in a boat, or watching the pinks, oranges and purples of a stunning setting sun from the other side of the world, you can feel an extraordinary sense of place come to life.
Aside from the Bukama village visit, there was another excursion I was lucky enough to experience, where this enchanted sense of place became evident. From the resort, guests can take a 30-minute boat trip to other secluded parts of the island, with dolphin pods swimming beside you. Umbrellas, woven mats and a delicious picnic lunch set up by staff await you at the destination. For half a day, you and your honey or family are the only ones present for miles. To sit in total solitude, as you soak in the velvety white sand, stunningly azure ocean, endless blue sky and drifting puffy clouds, is a South Pacific dream.
Yasawa ensures that when you arrive back at the resort after a sun-kissed day, the relaxing reverie continues, at their one-of-a-kind, open-air, beach-front spa. Treatments at Bavari Spa are accompanied by a sweet gentle breeze, and take place on a deck steps away from the ocean. Cathy, a sweet young Fijian woman, provided me with an unforgettable massage treatment. We shared a bit about each other’s lives and hopes and once again, through our conversation and connection, I was shown how genuine and sincere the Fijians truly are.
I could perceive visiting Yasawa as a romantic, couples-only rendezvous destination. Weddings and honeymoons often take place here because the isolated setting is straight out of a story book. It’s also not a stretch to envision what a life-changing experience — the unspoiled beauty, interaction with the village, immersion in culture — would be for kids. For families, children 12 and older are welcome year-round. If you’ve got kids 12 and under, Yawasa Island Resort has special family weeks and activities throughout the year. Their website lists these specific times.
Yawasa Island Resort is all about bringing forward the dreams of Fijian culture, hospitality, love, magnificence and magic. Everything you need is here, and the staff ensures that you feel the connection. Bula Vinaka (thank you) Yasawa Island Resort, and to all your staff, for the welcome and cherished memories. May people be inspired by these words and ultimately plan this Fijian trip of a lifetime for themselves. Until we meet again …
If You Go
Fiji Airways & Fiji Link: www.fijiairways.com
Island Hoppers: www.islandhoppersfiji.com
Fiji Orchid: www.fijiorchid.com
Yasawa Island Resort & Spa, Fiji: www.yasawa.com
Tourism Fiji: www.fiji.travel
Other Options in Fiji
There are two other family-friendly resorts to consider if you go to Fiji: Nanuku Resort & Spa Fiji, and Koro Sun Resort & Rainforest Spa.
Nanuku Resort & Spa
NANUKU RESORT & SPA is a brand new property located near Pacific Harbour, on Viti Levu, where Nadi airport is located. There are a couple of ways to get there, either by a 20-minute private charter flight from Nadi, or a two-hour drive from the airport. If you’re staying three or more nights, the resort will provide the ground transportation from the airport. Fiji’s newest resort to open boasts its own airport and two miles of private beach. The resort represents an investment of approximately $25 million.
Located on 55 acres, Nanuku Resort & Spa Fiji offers couples and families two-tiered choice of accommodations: the Vunikau residence, perched on a volcanic edge overlooking the lagoon, and striking beachfront residences. Nanuku is a high-end luxury resort, with well-equipped, state-of-the-art villa residences. These villas have private pools, garden areas and come with the use of a property golf buggy. Interiors are contemporary, with rock, glass and wood accents that let you know you’re someplace special. There are several upscale houses too, so that in the event you are traveling with a larger group or family you will be well accommodated. Also on-site is Kanavata bar and restaurant, which serves a fusion of Fijian and international flavors incorporating fresh seafood and garden-fresh produce. If you want spa services, the Lomana Spa & Wellness Centre delivers relaxation and beauty treatments with cultural emphasis and replenishing techniques.
What makes Nanuku unique is the menu of guest services they offer to families. If parents want quality alone time while on vacation, children under the age of six are allocated a nanny from 8 a.m. until 9 p.m. daily as part of the resort stay. The Lailai Children’s Club provides daily fun, with cultural activities including arts and crafts, water sports and games. Teens can also participate in surfing lessons, hiking, cooking, rugby and more. If you have a family member with special needs, whether it is an older adult or a child, Nanuku staff have a limited level of skilled support and are committed to caring attention, so a memorable vacation can be shared by all.
Pacific Harbour is considered the adventure capital of Fiji, with snorkeling, shark diving, whitewater rafting, golf, ziplines and more. Nanuku arranges these experiences, including some of their own, such as visits to local villages and marketplaces, hikes and rafting trips up the Navua River and Fijian crafts like cooking, coconut husking and meke dancing. These resort-specific adventures are all led by Nanuku’s staff, who are local Fijians and more than happy to share their pride and perspective on Fiji life. Their story-telling and guidance throughout the area and on-site are a bonus of being at Nanuku.
Visit www.nanukufiji.comfor a contemporary luxury stay.
Koro Sun Resort & Rainforest Spa
A 50-MINUTE FLIGHT from Nadi, Koro Sun Resort & Rainforest Spa is located at Savusavu on Vanua Levu, the other main Fijian island. Savusavu is a small town with a few shops, places to eat and a Saturday Market offering local vegetables, fruits and handmade crafts. The town is situated on a large bay, with international sailboats in port and a significant community of Americans, Australians, New Zealanders and Europeans, who make this area their extended-stay destination.
Koro Sun, about 15 minutes away, is a more budget-friendly resort, with a range of price and style accommodations throughout the 160-acre property, from single-room garden-view bures, to luxury on-the-water lagoon bures, to rainforest villas. Koro Sun’s latest additions are the ten new Edgewater bures (individually designed Fijian-style, thatched-roofed accommodations) and six new Edgewater villas. Edgewater bures and villas are the first of their kind in the Fiji Islands, allowing guests to enjoy a private beach, the beauty of the ocean with easy access to and from the lagoon, right at their doorstep. For families who want to travel to Fiji and find ways of keeping costs down, Koro Sun is an ideal choice. Here meals are also included with the stay.
Kind, hospitable Koro Sun staff lead an endless variety of complimentary activities, including guided snorkel trips, kayak treks, rainforest hikes, golf, herbal walks in the garden, bicycling, hand-line fishing, flower arranging and stand-up paddle boarding. The wide variety of free, family-friendly activities is one of the main reasons to stay at Koro Sun, in addition to the distinctive lagoon setting.
Not far from one of the main coral reefs along the rim of this side of the island, the lagoon rises and retreats with the tides and current. Thus the scenery is always changing, depending upon the clouds, where the sun is in the sky and how far out the tide is. The water is clear, and the lagoon is beautiful.
Visit www.korosunresort.com if you want a value-driven Fiji travel experience.