There is no such thing as predictable in the world of Danish fashion, in fact the only thing you can say for certain is that where the clothes are concerned you are sure to return inspired with a wish list as long as your arm. We were treated to a mix of the expected Scandinavian design aesthetic with edgy upcoming labels, elegant evening-wear and plenty more in between. But more than this there was a real immersive feel to the week’s events. As fashion weeks proliferate around the world, Copenhagen has solved the problem of how to stand out from the crowd with a focus on green initiatives and in particular a Fashion Exchange. Companies such as A Question Of and Wonhundred along with well-known faces of Copenhagen donated clothes for a swap and grab fiesta – genius move really when you consider that fashion week is usually a focus on the newest of the new. Anyhow – back to the clothes. Here is my take on the best bits from the week.
Anne Sofie Madsen
A captivating universe of avant-garde sportswear with a bite was the order of the day at Anne Sofie Madsen’s offering at Copenhagen Fashion week. Pushing boundaries is what the designer has become known for and it was evident in the strong graphic designs, origami-esque structure of jackets juxtaposed with soft knitwear and almost orthopaedic shoes. The overall feel was one of strong female warriors clad in jackets so constructed that evoked the feeling of armoury, with sharp metal accents completing the look. However this was not simply a study in fortitude but rather the female warrior re-imagined for the modern woman with clean lines, an intelligent use of textures (leathers, soft knitwear, metals and sheer fabrics) and a softer take on the monochrome palette bringing a sporty expression to the collection. Pairing stunning silhouettes with sporty functional flats was genius – taking the looks into an insouciant realm of effortless cool that we all aspire to. Perhaps this is what makes Madsen so compelling; her ability to construct exquisitely tailored pieces that feel effortless and most importantly exactly what we want to be wearing right now.
Anne Sofie Madsen
Wood Wood
Another designer to make a nod to the on-going athletic aesthetic was Wood Wood in their ‘Utopia’ collection. Monogrammed jackets and caps, sporting striped accents on sleeves and waistlines and back to school accessories (see the knee high socks, badges and even cycling shorts) were coupled with a sophisticated colour palette, impeccable tailoring and an intelligent use of print took the varsity them into the realm of Scandinavian cool. A particular favourite was a wide legged blue trouser suit with oversized jacket.
Wood Wood
Baum und Pfedegarten
A twist on the recurrent sportswear theme came in the offering from Baum und Pfedegarten who delivered a collection of strong prints – from leopard sports to stripes – on wearable, feminine garments. Intensive pastel shades in nude and pistachio added a mellow element in a mix of all-over print seperates and sets. Athletic references could be seen in the drawstrings, quilted jerseys and stripe detailing Most covetable of the collection, for me, was a cocoon overcoat with striking orange stripe accents – elegant but playful, the perfect combination!
Baum und Pfedegarten
Henrik Vibskov
Always one to break the mould, Vibskov presented his take on the world of ‘The Bathtub observer’. Intriguing to say the least. Set in a warehouse on Papirøen Island, we entered a world of visual disorder where the set was an extension of the collection itself. A kaleidoscopic array of prints lined the walls and the garments alike, whilst loops of acid yellow hair was picked up in the eclectic prints on the oversized shirts. Amongst the collection itself Henrik demonstrated his ability to surprise with dresses and skirts created in stiffened, twisted fabric that reinvented the patterns in a three-dimensional arena. But more than the clothes themselves, what was so very evident was Vibskov’s talent for creating a vision so all encompassing it was almost surreal. The devil is the detail and no one knows this better than Vibskov, using spherical glass hoops mimicking soap bubbles and even a team clad in mad scientist esque white lab coats and black neoprene swimming hats completing the finishing touches to his very own rabbit hole. So what does the bathtub observer see? A euphoric universe that shimmers under a distorted lens perhaps – decide for yourself!
Henrik Vibskov
Freya Dalsjö
Colour block boxing silks, rust coloured slip dresses and accents of bright springbok fur dominated the runway at Freya Dalsjö’s SS14 show. For those eagerly awaiting more of the striking silhouettes in neoprene and leather that Dalsjo has previously been known for, this was a complete departure. Simple lines constructed in silk gave a relaxed feel to the deeply cut ankle length dresses, which were later paired with light jackets that retained Dalsjö distinctive sportswear inspiration. Eye-catching sandals accented with vibrant fur injected fun throughout. Safe to say that Dalsjö has delivered on her ‘one to watch’ status for this season.
Freya Dalsjö
Babara I Gongini
In a slightly departure from the sportswear undercurrent running through Copenhagen fashion week, Barbara I Gongini provided us with a master class in deconstruction, shape and texture. Delicate layers of sheer soft fabrics sat alongside beautifully constructed tulle dresses and headpieces and some stronger oversize outerwear pieces with accents of leather. A particular standout was a netted gauzy jumpsuit, reminiscent of a spider’s web, toughened by a restrictive leather headpiece and lethal shoes (only the extremely confident need apply). This master class came to a head at the end of the show when each model in turn dressed one of their number in a layer at a time – demonstrating how the collection pieced together as a whole. Whilst there were sporty references if you looked hard enough, strong zip details on an oversized woollen jacket here and some sports luxe leggings there, this collection was a direct challenge to the wearer; how will you construct yours?
Barbara I Gongini
Speaking of the harmonious union between collections and locations – the By Malene Birger show did exactly that, albeit on a more understated level than Vibskov’s dystopian warehouse. Instead the intrinsic elegance of this SS collection was perfectly mirrored in the graceful surroundings of the Hotel d’Angleterre. The collection was everything you would expect of Birger – laid-back elegance and impeccable tailoring was evident in floor length silk dresses, embellished evening wear and tailored seperates. Our attention was grabbed by a new focus on ethnic prints, given a fresh twist in a largely monochrome palette and classic silhouettes which felt like a departure from the bright neon’s and all over prints of last season. This collection epitomises those who ‘dress not to impress but to express’ and wish to do so with an air of casual elegance.
- Marlene Birger
Images courtesy of Style.com