Bangkok won’t charm you…at least not right away.
It’s massive, intimidating, busy, hot, humid and really kind of ugly. Chances are you may get ripped off by a tuk tuk or taxi driver and you’ll definitely get stuck in traffic some point. But, give it a little time, and you’ll start to notice how the different neighborhoods each have their own character, how small family dwellings and communities are still tucked in between major roads and skyscrapers, how there’s mouth-watering food everywhere, how the city offers a little something for everyone and how there’s always more to discover.
There’s an energy that’s inescapable – sometimes it’s exhilarating, other times it’s oppressive – but it’s always intense.
View from a longtail boat on the Chao Praya River
I was not a Bangkok fan the first time I visited. Or the second. Or probably the third. (Starting out being dropped off on a side road close to Khao San at 4:00 a.m. by myself without a hotel room probably had something to do with it.) I was certainly a little uneasy and uncomfortable. I spent two days wandering around in circles on my own and wasn’t really sure what to do in Bangkok. I couldn’t understand how the city was laid out, was paranoid about being scammed, and seemed to walk forever in the direction of a destination never actually reaching it.
I didn’t hate it, but I didn’t love it like I had other parts of the country and didn’t feel the need to spend much more time there - it was just a necessary passing through point for several trips.
Five years and ten visits later, I’ve come to enjoy and appreciate Bangkok much more than I ever expected and my to-do list for the city keeps growing. As I’ve become more comfortable in the capital, I’ve started to take advantage of what the city has to offer instead of being run over by it. I also have a standard set of suggestions, directions and and advice for friends and family visiting Bangkok for the first time.
The Basics
Simply put, Bangkok is very big, very busy and very hot. Most people that I know usually spend 2-3 days in Bangkok on their first visit. Usually they want to see a couple of the islands, head up north to Chiang Mai for 3-4 days and stay in Bangkok either at the beginning or end of their trip.
You won’t see much in one day but, for some, three to four days start to feel exhausting — 2-3 days will allow you time to see the major sites without getting too frustrated by the crowds, traffic or heat. You can always come back!
Transportation
It took me a while to figure out how to get around Bangkok but, though I’m still not exactly sure how everything fits together, it’s relatively easy – plus you can always just hop in a cab. There’s four main modes of transportation for people visiting:
Taxis: I avoided taxis my first couple times in Bangkok because I assumed they’d be similar to other major cities and capitals – expensive. In reality, they’re actually incredibly reasonable and, while more expensive than the Skytrain or subway, totally worth it, especially of you’re traveling with others. Look for the red ‘ว่าง’ light in the windshield indicating a cab is available and flag them down. All taxis are required to work off a meter, if for some reason the driver refuses to use the meter, don’t get in and find another car.
BTS (Skytrain): The city’s Skytrain is very useful and easy to use – unfortunately it only accesses a relatively small part of the central city. There are two lines – the Sukhumvit Line, running north-south, and the Silom Line, running east-west across the river – with an interchange station at Siam (it’s a busy one!).
MRT (subway): Bangkok also has a subway system that, from my experience, seems to be less used by the masses – I didn’t even realize it existed at first. It helps fill in some areas missed by the Skytrain and is usually less crowded.
Tuk tuks: They’re touristy, more expensive than taxis, bumpy and you may come across a driver who tries to convoke you to go to their friend’s silk shop, but tuk tuks are still a good options for going short distances….and they’re just fun. You’re paying for transportation and a ride! Negotiate a price before getting into the tuk tuk and try to have a good idea of where you want to go and how far away it is so the driver doesn’t completely overcharge you. Some will want to give you a deal, taking you longer distances or to several stops for cheap cheap, as long as you go to a silk/jewelry/tailor shop that they’re in cahoots with. Sometimes this can actually work out if you like the driver and they don’t pressure you into buying anything, but usually just avoid them.
The city also has a complex bus system and motorbike taxis line the streets. While the local buses are incredibly cheap, under a dollar, I have no idea how you’re supposed actually know where or when to get on a bus and where it’s going. Motorbike taxis are an option if you’re on your own and need to get somewhere fast(er) during heavy traffic. (If you’re squeamish about the traffic, you’ll probably hate riding on the back of a motorbike with a guy you don’t know as he tightly weaves in between cars and buses. Personally, I usually don’t have a problem with it. I know it looks crazy, but you also have to figure these guys know what they’re doing and have some impressive – and creative – driving skills.)
Two airports are located north and west of the city center. Suvarnabhumi (pronounced su-wa-na-poom – I know, it makes no sense…) is the main international airport while Don Muang flies more domestic flights as well as international flights to nearby countries. (Note that the budget carriers Air Asia and Nok Air operate solely out of Don Muang).
You can use the Skytrain or MRT to connect to an airport rail link that goes to Suvarnabhumi. For Don Muang it’s easiest just to get a taxi.
Tuk tuks…fun but pricey
Accommodation
Bangkok doesn’t have one city center or ‘downtown’, which makes it a little difficult to get your bearings. Several areas have clusters of activities, sites and accommodation, so think about what style of accomodation and price range you want along with whether or not you want to be located close to a public transit system.
If you’re visiting for the first time, I recommend staying around Pathumwan and Sukhumvit, or Bangalamphu around Khao San Road. The Pathumwan/Siam Square/Sukhmuvit area allows you to be close to the main shopping and entertainment centers as well as both BTS lines and the MRT – it’s a great location for transportation options. It’s also very busy and smack in the middle of the big city.
Khao San Road is the (in)famous backpacker street in Bangalamphu. It is close to the river, Royal Palace complex and temples, and several well-known markets. Some people love Khao San…some people hate it. It just depends on the atmosphere you want and room budget. It also is a little more difficult to get around since the area isn’t serviced by one of the mass transit lines. That said, there’s a ton of accommodation – ranging from $6 prison cell-like rooms to 5 star hotels – and you’re certain to meet up with other travelers.
Recently, I’ve been turned onto Bangkok’s boutique hotel offerings that have a bit more style and character – and are more affordable than you’d expect! You can read more about my stays and suggestions here, here and here.
Loy La Long Hotel, Bangkok
Attractions
Like much of the rest of Thailand, many noteworthy sites center around temples.
The Grand Palace: If for some reason you’re debating whether or not to go to the grand Palace, just go. It’s pricey compared to other sites and attractions, it’s usually crowded, and – like everything else – it’s hot. It’s also well worth it and unbelievably beautiful.
Wat Pho: Next to the Grand Palace complex is Wat Pho, home the massive Reclining Buddha and the birthplace of Thai massage. Again, it’s crowded and there can be lines to see the Buddha. Again, it’s worth it. If you’ve already seen the Reclining Buddha, try coming back to the grounds at night – you can’t enter the temple buildings but you can walk around the temple complex that’s beautifully lit…and with no people.
Wat Arun: After visiting the Grand Palace and Wat Pho take the water taxi from Tha Tien pier across the river to Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn.
Chinatown: I’ve never really done much in Chinatown, just wandered around, which is why I’m considering it an attraction. Southeast of the Grand Palace area, Chinatown is one of the best places to soak up Bangkok’s character and get a sense of what the city was like years ago.
Khao San Road: If you’re not staying here, then it’s certainly an attraction. Again, people seem to have strong opinions about Khao San, but I actually think it’s kind of incredible. Turn down the street just right and you’ll come across the multi-colored, international, traveler melting pot dodging moving phad thai carts, people spilling out from the bars and plenty of vendors – and then, before you know it, you’ve turn down a different street and it has disappeared. I’m not saying you have to love it…but you should see it. (When I asked my Thai boyfriend, who’s from Bangkok, what advice he’d give to first-time visitors he just said, “Go to Khao San Road – you’ll learn anything you want to know”. Which is probably true…and several things you probably didn’t want to know…)
If you like temples and have more time, I’d also recommend visiting:
Wat Traimit: Home the world’s largest gold Buddha, Wat Traimit is certainly impressive.
Wat Saket & the Golden Mount: Climb to the top of the Golden Mount for a different view of the sprawling city.
Sri Maha Mariammam: Also known as Wat Khaek, this Hindu temple has you feeling like you’ve stepped into another world.
At the Grand Palace
Activities
You can do just about anything you can think of in Bangkok…and I’m not going to mention a lot of them here…
Wander through a market…or several: Bangkok is filled, filled, filled with markets. Some of my favorites are Talat Rod Fai, Chatuchak weekend market and Pak Khlong Talat (the largest flower and produce market) – but there are several more to choose from, like these.
Visit the Jim Thompson House: I know it doesn’t sound very exciting to come to Asia’s Sin City and then go visit an old house, but the Jim Thompson House and Museum is pretty dang impressive. And, with tickets just 100 baht ($3) for adults, it’s also one of the best deals around. Everyone I’ve sent there has loved it!
Dine at a rooftop bar: Every Bangkok guide is going to stay go to a rooftop bar…and they’re right, pick one and go! My time at Red Sky rooftop bar at Centara Grand was fabulous.
Stroll through the shopping malls: Several of the biggest shopping centers like Siam Paragon and MBK are located close together making it easy to stay inside with some air conditioning for a while!
Eat street food: Whatever it is, just try it!
Take a tour: If the city feels overwhelming, look into some of the different tour offerings (there are a ton) to see what interests you and make seeing the city more manageable. I was surprised how much I enjoyed this nighttime tuk tuk tour.
Just explore: If you’re feeling up to it, grab a fruit shake and just start wandering. You’re not going to see Bangkok’s true character if you just stick to the main streets. Head down a smaller soi and you’ll start to recognize micro-communities thriving within the megalopolis.
Still not sure what to do in Bangkok? Ask your hotel or guest house for some recommendations of things located close by.
Red Sky Rooftop Bar
Day Trips
I used to envision Bangkok as a huge city surrounded by…nothing. Not true, it turns out.
Ayutthaya: About an hour outside of Bangkok is the ancient kingdom of Ayutthaya – the first major kingdom of Thailand – an easy, and interesting day trip.
Koh Kret: On the northern part of the city lies Koh Kret, an island in the center of the Chayo Praya River. The island is popular with Thai visitors on the weekends and known for its desserts and pottery.
Many people also take a day trip out to some popular floating markets…I haven’t been and have heard mixed reviews since the traditional markets have turned into complete tourists affairs. I’d say it’s still worth looking into though, you can’t see floating markets just anywhere!
Also, it’s not a day trip in the sense that you can’t go then head back to the city in the afternoon, but Sukhothai is a great stopping spot if you want to break up travel time between Bangkok and Chiang Mai. The ancient city and UNESCO site is about five hours away from both Bangkok and Chiang Mai and worth staying for a couple nights to check out the ruins. You can read more about Sukhothai here and here.
In Ayutthaya
Moving On
Traveling from Bangkok, you’ll often use one of the two airports listed above or one of the three major bus terminal.
Mo Chit Bus Terminal (also known as the northern Bus Terminal): This is the largest station and about ten minutes away from the Mo Chit BTS station and Chatuchak Park or Kampaeng Phet MRT stations. The terminal serves all busses heading north and north east (so this is the one you want for Chiang Mai), but it also has some services going south (like to the major hubs of Sura Thani and Krabi) and east (for example, I made it to Koh Chang from Mo Chit).
Ekkamai: This is the eastern terminal serving places like Pattaya and Rayong. It’s right next to the Ekamai BTS station.
Sai Mai Tai: This station serves all southern and western destinations and is located west of the river in Thonburi.
There are so many public and private companies running different levels of buses 24/7 that you don’t need to book ahead – except on major holidays, the day before New Year’s Eve is a nightmare, for example – just head to the station and then shop around for a trip that works for you.
Plan about an hour from central Bangkok to reach the bus stations and check with your accommodation about the best time to leave/how long it will take when heading to either of the airports.
Taking a tuk tuk ride in Bangkok
Random Tips
It’s hot: Air-conditioned axis, 7-11s and shopping malls are your friends. Also stayed hydrate.
Don’t take it personally: You’ll probably have a moment when you and whoever you’re traveling with start to get on each other nerves – chances are you’re all just hot. Take some time to cool down – literally and figuratively.
Take frequent snack breaks! Hangry + hot is not a good combination…it happens to the best of us.
Organize your plans by location: Take a look at where activities/attractions you’re interested in are located and try to group together trips. For example, Wat Arun, the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Khao San Road are all in the same area. Chatuchak Market is a separate trip on its own.
Splurge a little: The first couple of times I stayed in Bangkok I kept to a very strict budget…and didn’t enjoy it nearly as much as when I loosened up and started to pay for taxis across town just because I wanted to see something new or decided to check out one of the city’s boutique hotels.
Stay close to a Skytrain station: If you don’t want to be piecing together transportation the whole time, choose accommodation located close to a Skytrain station. It was save you time, hassle and, often, money.
What other tips would you give to people visiting Bangkok for the first time? Would you back me up on the Jim Thompson House recommendation?
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