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== How a Couture Pioneer Changed Fashion - WSJ.com ==
She shopped at Christian Dior, Nina Ricci, Valentino, Pucci, Emanuel Ungaro,Food & Drink - Scene Asia - WSJ, and Pierre Cardin. She spent as much as $1.5 million a year on fashion in some years,AllThingsD, her company estimates. But couturiers' doors didn't open easily for Eunice Johnson, because for a long time she was a rarity: an African-American fashion client.
Mrs. Johnson, who died in 2010, ran the Ebony Fashion Fair,Looking Back at Borgnines Life - WSJ.com, a runway show that traveled around the U.S. from 1958 to 2009, displaying high fashion for an African-American audience. The wife of publishing mogul John Johnson, founder of Ebony magazine, she bought some 7,000 items of clothing and accessories over her lifetime, for the show and for her personal collection.
Now,polo ralph lauren pas cher, curators at the Chicago History Museum are combing through her collection to create a March 2013 exhibition. Mrs. Johnson didn't shy from cutting-edge fashion, and the trove includes dramatic Pierre Cardin and Emilio Pucci designs from the 1960s and 1970s. There is also a well-known "Picasso" dress from Yves Saint Laurent, a gown designed by Alexander McQueen during his brief stint as Givenchy's creative director and two Paco Rabanne hot-pant ensembles made of plastic discs.
"Anybody would be bowled over by what Mrs. Johnson was able to collect in her lifetime," says Joy Bivins, the Chicago History Museum curator of the coming exhibition.
The collection also offers a window on a little-known moment in the civil-rights era when a rising class of African-Americans began to embrace a luxurious lifestyle that had been unavailable to them.
"Black society was never able to participate, and Mrs. Johnson made her own society," says model Pat Cleveland, who got her start modeling for the Ebony Fashion Fair in 1965 at age 14. "She was able to express what it was like to be able to be a luxurious woman."
Mrs. Johnson traveled to ateliers in Paris, Rome and Florence during the buying seasons. Some designers, like Yves Saint Laurent, welcomed her. Others took some convincing.
"We always had trouble getting in," said Audrey Smaltz, a New York fashion-show coordinator who assisted with Mrs. Johnson's buying trips and traveled with the fashion fair in the 1970s. She says their team used the high-circulation Ebony magazine as a calling card or worked through a Parisian liaison.
Yves Saint Laurent was Mrs. Johnson's favorite designer, says Linda Johnson Rice, Mrs. Johnson's daughter and current chairman of Johnson Publishing Co., publisher of Ebony. "She would run backstage to greet him," Mrs. Rice recalls, and he included her in events such as his 40th birthday party.
But at the Rome atelier of Princess Irene Galitzine, who popularized glitzy evening pants for women in the 1960s, Ms. Smaltz sat for an hour trying to get in to see the collection. Luckily, Vogue editor Alexander Liberman stopped in for an appointment, and his introduction helped open the doors, says Ms. Smaltz. (Both the princess and Mr. Liberman are now dead.) "Can you imagine? They didn't want to take our money," says Ms. Smaltz, who traveled in style with Mrs. Johnson, sitting in first class on airplanes and staying at the Plaza Athenée hotel in Paris and the Excelsior in Rome.
Mid-century couture shows were exclusive affairs. Many clients knew each other. Some traveled together each season to order their wardrobes. "Let me tell you, she was alone doing this," says Ms. Rice of her mother. "Flying to Europe sounds very glamorous, [but] here you are, you're a black woman. There's no one like you—no one even on the runway like you."
She adds, "I think it was very lonely and it was tough. But she derived so much pleasure, because she loved the clothes and she loved the fact that she was going to bring them back for people to see them."
Mrs. Johnson bargained ruthlessly with design houses' vendeuses, or saleswomen,ralph lauren, pulling out her checkbook to begin negotiations. "She would start to write the check, and she would stop and say, 'You know, I really don't think I like that price,'" says Ms. Rice, "and she would fold the check in half, [and] turn to me and say,ralph lauren home, 'Linda, let's go.'"
"The vendeuse, all she could see was this five-figure check walking out the door." Mrs. Johnson, funded by her husband and their company, started out without a formal budget. From the 1970s through the 1990s,ralph lauren, her spending averaged $1 million a year,polo ralph lauren pas cher, Johnson Publishing says.
Mrs. Johnson's buying missions resulted in an extensive personal haute couture collection, but a prime focus of her travels was clothes for the Ebony Fashion Fair. She also collected looks from African-American designers such as Patrick Kelly. The Johnsons "were trying to showcase the success and aspirations of African Americans and show really positive images of blackness to black people,ralph lauren pas cher," says Ms. Bivins.
The Ebony Fashion Fair toured for up to six months annually, holding shows that raised funds for the United Negro College Fund and other causes. The show launched a generation of black fashion and Hollywood stars. "That was a turning point of my life," says Richard Roundtree,polo femme, an actor best known as the supercop "Shaft" from the 1970s cult films. Mr. Roundtree had been working as a catalog model when Mrs. Johnson hired him for her tour in 1967.
It was at an Ebony Fashion Fair party that he had a conversation with comedian Bill Cosby that encouraged him to study acting in New York, where he landed the "Shaft" role in 1971. Mr. Roundtree says the fashions he modeled fueled a sense that elegance was attainable. "This was black people on stage with these incredible clothes," he says. "They could totally relate to it because it was on black people."
Traveling with the Ebony Fashion Fair was far from glamorous. Carole Brantley Pines, a 19-year-old model with the first fashion fair in 1958,ralph lauren pas cher, says she was one of two light-skinned models who were sent in to get food at restaurants that declined to serve blacks. In some Southern towns in the very early years, Mrs. Johnson's husband arranged for food to be delivered to the bus "so we didn't have to go to any back doors," says Ms. Brantley Pines, who modeled under her maiden name, Carole Preston.
In the still-segregated South, they weren't allowed to stay in hotels, so local groups would put up the models in their homes. "Beautiful homes. Black people were living very well, but we were still segregated," she says.
During the fashion fair's 1965-66 season, the Ku Klux Klan rallied outside a hotel in Little Rock, Ark., where the models were staying, says Ms. Cleveland, the model. "We were scared to death—we were just trying to eat dinner," she says.
"We were dressed in the best clothes," Ms. Cleveland says, describing the dozen or so models with a busload of traveling couture. In the South, "they understood that change was coming down the road."
Eventually, some European designers turned to Mrs. Johnson for help as they courted a new African-American market. Mr. Pucci asked her to help him find black models in the 1960s, Ms. Rice says. (Laudomia Pucci, the daughter of the late Mr. Pucci, says that her father was a pioneer in working with black models, and she remembers meeting Mrs. Johnson.)
The Ebony Fashion Fair was discontinued in 2009 when Mrs. Johnson,polo ralph lauren pas cher, who died the following year at 93, became too frail to oversee it. Ms. Rice and Johnson Publishing Chief Executive Desirée Rogers, the former White House social secretary, plan to bring it back next year when the museum exhibit opens.
Virginia Heaven,ralph lauren pas cher, a fashion historian who was consulted about the choices for the exhibition, says she was "stunned" when she first saw the collection Mrs. Johnson had amassed. "There were pieces that were iconic from Yves Saint Laurent, iconic from Lacroix," she says. Whittling down the choices has been difficult, she says. "We could have put together 10 exhibitions out of this material and all would have been equally good."
—Write to Christina Binkley at or follow her on twitter:
== DWC Historical Stock Quote Prices - WSJ.com ==
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Quote data,Write to,polo ralph lauren, except U.S. stocks,Write to,polo ralph lauren, provided by . U.S. stock quote data provided by Dow Jones.
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== Is This North Korea’s First Lady - Korea Real Time - ==
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By Jaeyeon Woo
More signs have emerged during the weekend that a mysterious woman recently seen with North Korean leader Kim Jong Eun in several events might be his wife.
On Sunday,Financials - MarketBeat - WSJ, Korean Central News Agency showed the woman accompanying Mr. Kim on a visit to a kindergarten in Pyongyang. In a dotted yellow one-piece and a Chanel-style white tweed jacket, matching with ivory toe-open high heels,ralph lauren, the woman gave the image of a confident – and fashionable – First Lady.
She looked at ease and natural with Mr. Kim. In some photos,polo lacoste pas cher Homepage ThePostGame,ralph lauren pas cher, she was standing right next to him when he was talking to a group of children. Other officials, including Mr. Kim’s uncle Jang Song Thaek, were several steps behind. She also appeared to send Mr. Kim affectionate looks.
On July 7, she made by accompanying Mr. Kim to a musical extravaganza that featured a western-style band and rip-off Disney characters. Unlike other senior officials who were sitting stiffly with their hands on their thighs, she seemed more comfortable,polo ralph lauren, with her arms on armrests and a slightly lean toward Mr. Kim.
The next day,polo ralph lauren, she was shown again with Mr. Kim on a visit to Kumsusan Memorial Palace where the bodies of his grandfather and father,ralph lauren outlet, Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il,International Stock Indexes - Markets Data Center - WSJ.com,ralph lauren italia, are displayed. The event marked the 18th anniversary of Kim Il Sung’s death. Kim Jong Eun and the woman bowed in front of two photos of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jung Il while other officials standing behind them saluted.
With no way to confirm the identity of the woman, outsiders’ guesses can go only so far.
But her repeated appearance with the leader and confident air suggests that there is a high possibility that she is actually his wife.
Cheong Seong-chang, a senior fellow at Sejong Institute,polo ralph lauren pas cher, wrote in a recent report that “Kim Jong Eun might have decided that now is the time to reveal his wife since the succession process completed and his mother Ko Yong Hee was introduced to North Koreans via a propaganda film.”
Also by introducing the leader’s wife, the regime is aiming to nurture Mr. Kim’s image as a stable and mature man since Mr. Kim’s young age and inexperience have been perceived as his weak point, he wrote.
Speculation about Kim Jong Eun’s wife once surfaced in December last year when KCNA aired Kim Jong Il’s funeral live. At that time,ralph lauren home, a mysterious young woman was spotted wearing a black hanbok,polo ralph lauren pas cher, traditional Korean mourning clothing. But she remained low-key and didn’t come forward to pay tribute.
Some North Korean analysts believe that Kim Jong Eun got married in 2009 and the couple had a daughter in 2010.
== Particle Physicists Face High Burden of Proof - The Numbers ==
The quality of the natural sciences on the natural substances, the very essence of the universe, the particle, the Higgs field and Higgs bosons,polo ralph lauren pas cher, gene, the big bang,polo ralph lauren outlet, black holes, dark matter, matter and antimatter, particle domain field, mechanical, human The birth of the end of the universe, super new Department, the prehistory of the natural origin, genes and particles of the solar system, models of the universe, the quark model, such as elementary particles, the God particle, relativistic and non-relativistic,ralph lauren pas cher, and so on and so forth. Global natural scientists are constantly emerging,ralph lauren italia, and experimental detection results of exploration and remarkable achievements. Some 62 kinds of particles have been found,polo ralph lauren, various theories and hypotheses, as well as the deepening of experimental detection,ralph lauren, human beings trying to find the true meaning of nature – God particle, everything can be all is well. Folks are looking for in the assiduous God particle or better say that the original of nature, heaven-sent man, gods, to mankind a great inspiration and opportunity, God how? The major achievements of physicists and cosmologists, biologists, chemists, not only the God particle detection was observed, but more importantly: experiments and research, detection and discovery, designed to in-depth explanation and revelation of the God particle, a driving force (the association and causal relationship between gravitation and ultrafine particles, field and ultrafine particles of super-spin vector domain “super-spin sub-and super-spin vector domain field,WSJ After his French Open victory, can Rafael Nadal win Wimb, super-rotation power and super-rotation of movement.” experiments and observed an extremely important , without which everything is nonsense, ready to collapse and we will find the specification of the God particle is not standardized, regular or non-being is the God particle evolution and transmutation, etc. In other words, God is not a single particle or lonely existence of the universe particles and super-spin vector domain field and ultra-roton interaction,ralph lauren pas cher, mutually cause and effect and the Big Bang, dark matter, super-rotation movement of the God particle (ultra-roton) super-rotation movement domain – field physics formulas, physics equations, mathematical equations,polo lacoste, as well as human exploration found only infinite drop of the sea fills the God particle by no means confined to a corner of the limitations of modern scientific instruments, adds to the difficult and errors found. However, <super-roton including norms or norms, standards or standards, concepts and experimental observations have been increasingly in-depth bottom particle primitive super-spin vector particle spin of rotating spin derivative, is the primitive of the particles, and gravitation, the universe was formed, microform and expansion of the symmetric and asymmetric,polo ralph lauren pas cher,Video - Life Insurance Plans and Data - WSJ.com, material and antimatter,polo lacoste,An Arctic Row Against the Tides of Narcissism Marvels - WSJ, the big bang and particle mound did not closely related to this connection can not explain all of nature, but the super-rotation of the spin vector domain —- the field in which to play a major role and function. God particle is no exception. contact :mdin.jshmith@gmail.com,dpers.bert@yahoo.com
== Personal Income and Outlays ==
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Economic Indicators Archive
Below are links to reports from government agencies and business research groups. These statistical reports are used by economists to gauge and forecast business conditions.Additionally, a of economic indicators is available.
Details follow on the contents of each report.
Beige Book Report
Report released 8 times a year by the Federal Reserve Board.
Summary of regional economic conditions,polo ralph lauren, prepared by the 12 FederalReserve Banks for use at the central bank's next Federal OpenMarket Committee meeting.
Business Inventories
Report released monthly by the Commerce Department.
Measure of the stocks of unsold goods held by U.S. businesses.
Business Productivity and Costs
Report released 8 times a year by the Labor Department.
Measure of productivity -- defined as output per number of hoursworked -- in the business and the nonfarm business sectors ofthe workplace.
Construction Spending
Report released monthly by the Commerce Department.
Measure of construction spending on residential, nonresidentialand government projects.
Consumer Credit
Report released monthly by the Federal Reserve Board.
Measure of money loaned to individuals,ralph lauren pas cher,La canciller alemana, usually on an unsecuredbasis, requiring monthly repayment. Bank loans,ralph lauren, credit cards andinstallment credit are examples of consumer credit.
Consumer Price Index
Report released monthly by the Labor Department.
Gauge of inflation that measures changes in the prices of consumergoods. The index is based on a list of specific goods and servicespurchased in urban areas.
Current Account
Report released quarterly by the Commerce Department
The current account is the broadest measure of U.S. trade withthe rest of the world. It includes data not only about goods butalso about merchandise and services,ralph lauren pas cher,WSJ Should your computers operating system PC vs M, as well as some financialtransactions.
Durable-Goods Orders
Report released monthly by the Commerce Department.
New orders for manufactured durable goods and shipments of durablegoods. A durable good is a product that is expected to last more thanthree years.
E-Commerce Retail Sales
Report released quarterly by the Commerce Department.
Sales of goods and services over the Internet,ralph lauren, extranets, Electronic Data Interchange or other online system.Payment may or may not be made online.
Employment Cost-Index
Report released quarterly by the Labor Department.
Changes in compensation costs,ralph lauren pas cher, including wages,polo ralph lauren pas cher, salaries and employercosts for employee benefits.
Employment Situation
Report released monthly by the Labor Department.
Tally of payrolls and the unemployment rate.
Existing-Home Sales
Report released monthly by the National Association of Realtors.
Regional report on home resale activity.
Factory Orders
Report released monthly by the Commerce Department.
Tally of U.S. manufacturers' shipments, inventories and ordersfor consumer goods. Includes revised report for durable goods.
Gross Domestic Product
Report released monthly by the Commerce Department.
The total value of goods and services produced within the economy.
Housing Starts
Report released monthly by the Commerce Department.
Monthly tally of the number of new privately-owned housing unitsstarted and housing permits issued by local government authorities.
Import and Export Price Indexes
Report released monthly by the Labor Department.
Tally of price changes in U.S. imports and exports.
Institute for Supply Management Index
Report released monthly by the Institute for Supply Management.
Report on the pace of manufacturing activity in the U.S. as awhole and in specific metropolitan areas. The report is basedon data compiled from a survey of purchasing executives at morethan 300 industrial companies.
Industrial Production and Capacity Utilization
Report released monthly by the Federal Reserve Board.
Output at U.S. factories,polo femme google nexus 7 review - Yahoo! Video Se,polo ralph lauren pas cher, utilities and mines. Capacity utilizationis a measure of U.S. industrial production as a percentage oftotal production capacity.
Initial Jobless Claims
Report released weekly by the Labor Department.
Number of Americans filing new claims for state unemployment insurance.
International Trade
Report released monthly by the Commerce Department.
Tally of U.S. international trade in goods and services, or thedifference between a country's imports and exports.
Leading Economic Indicators
Report released monthly by the Conference Board.
Composite of 10 economic measurements developed to help forecastlikely changes in the economy as a whole.
New-Home Sales
Report released monthly by the Commerce Department.
Sales of new single-family houses.
Nonmanufacturing Index
Report released monthly by the Institute for Supply Management.
Report on the pace of business activity in non-manufacturing sectors. The report is based on a survey of 370 purchasing and supply-management professionals in more than 60 different sectors.
Personal Income and Outlays
Report released monthly by the Commerce Department.
Tally of wage and salary disbursements and of personal consumptionexpenditures.
Philadelphia Federal Reserve Business Outlook Survey
Report released monthly by the Federal Reserve Bank of Philadelphia. Survey of regional business activity.
Producer Price Index
Report released monthly by the Labor Department.
A group of statistics used to gauge inflation at the wholesalelevel. The index for finished goods,ralph lauren outlet, which tracks commoditiesthat won't undergo further processing and are ready for sale tothe ultimate user, is the most prominently reported of the statisticsand is released monthly.
Retail Sales
Report released monthly by the Commerce Department.
Sales of durable and non-durable goods sold to consumers.
Reuters/University of Michigan Survey of Consumers
Report released monthly by the University of Michigan/Reuters. A monthly survey of consumer sentiment based on telephone interviews with approximately 500 adults living in the 48 coterminous states plus the District of Columbia.
Unemployment Report
Report released monthly by the Labor Department.
Tally of payrolls and the unemployment rate.
Wholesale Trade Sales and Inventories
Report released monthly by the Commerce Department.
Tally of the sales and inventories of U.S. merchant wholesalers.