I’ve always wanted to visit Buenos Aires, but until recently had never had the chance. I had heard so much about it: after all, it is famous for many things that captures the gay imagination – from Eva Peron, to the sensual Tango, to its billing as THE cosmopolis of South America. Pretty much everyone I knew who had visited had fallen in love with its somewhat Parisian charm, some even moving permanently to absorb even more of it. It was definitely top of my list for a romantic holiday.
Unexpectedly, Buenos Aires called me for an entirely different reason, albeit one that would show off its gay credentials beyond my wildest expectations. I was asked to speak on the topic of luxury gay travel at the city’s annual LGBT travel conference, GNetwork360. The brainchild of BA’s gay icons, entrepreneurs, activists and partners, Pablo De Luca and Gustavo Noguera – the conference in its 4th year has grown to become an important highlight, not only of the country’s gay calendar, but also of the continent’s mainstream travel agenda and that of the international LGBT community. I must admit that I didn’t really know what to expect, but what I found was a strong and forward-looking business community, both gay and straight, working together to advance the subject of gay travel and developing the community at large.
The three day conference was mind-blowing – speakers and delegates from around the world, converging to network, talk, discuss and learn about how important gay travel was in Latin America and how the pink peso was the key to unlocking further sustained success in the market. But what suprised me most pleasantly, was the support that the government gave to the cause – not just lip-service, oh no – but as avid sponsors and supporters. The Minister of Tourism has been a long-time champion and was in attendance throughout the conference. Pablo and Gustavo had an audience with the American ambassador to Argentina, who conveyed her well-wishes. And late last year, the pair had an audience with the President of Argentina herself, who lent her personal support to their great work – serious corridors of power stuff.
So it’s no wonder that a recent survey by Boutique Marketing shows that Buenos Aires is the no. 2 main-holiday travel destination for affluent, gay Europeans and North Americans – their hard work is seriously paying off.
But there’s no point having substance without style – and thankfully, this city has plenty of both and offers something for everyone. Here are my key highlights:
BARRIO HOP
Buenos Aires is made up of many different districts – nearly 50 in fact… make sure you take time to explore the core ones of Palermo, San Telmo, Recoleta, La Boca, Belgrano and Puerto Madero, each with its own charm. Taxi travel is relatively cheap in the city, so it’s easy to move from one district to another – but make sure you get into a “Radio Taxi” and nothing else but.
WHERE TO STAY
I fell in love with my amazing boutique hotel, the Legado Mitico at the heart of trendy Palermo Soho. With just 11 gorgeous rooms, set in a breathtakingly beautiful yet understated town-house and decorated with truly exquisite Argentine taste – it’s the perfect tonic to the multi-room chain hotels and really gives you a luxury home-from-home. In general Buenos Aires hotels can be quite ‘hit-or-miss’, especially when it comes to location. I would suggest to choose a hotel in a barrio that you’d want to spend time in.
SHOP TIL YOU DROP
BA is the shopping capital of Latin America – with literally something for everyone. From cutting edge off-the-peg menswear, to my favourite: handmade ‘bags and shoes’ (Argentina is great for leather goods), the boutiques of Palermo can definitely have that piece of leather in your pocket, your wallet, emptied out. For bargain hunters, check out the Mercado de las Pulgas on the far edge of Palermo Hollywood, especially if you love your 20th century antiques. Our tip – on Sunday, the shops round the outside are just as good and in some cases cheaper than the market traders themselves.
DO THE TOURIST THING
You can’t go to BA and miss La Boca. This colourful neighbourhood is a little touristy, but its natural charm makes up for the touting and irritating street-performers looking to make a quick buck. Most weekends are busy but interesting times to visit. Ask a local when the street carnivals are on, as I stumbled into one by accident and had the time of my life.
DON’T CRY FOR ME
I’m not big on guide-book sightseeing, but if you must, then don’t miss Eva Peron’s grave in the graveyard city in Recoleta, plus the crafts market outside on Saturdays. Recoleta is a good place to see on foot, but also check out Casa Rosada and the nearby Presidential museum is good for political history buffs. Also, there is the tango – almost ubiquitous across the city. I asked someone if there was a non-touristy tango show. Apparently no such thing, as all the shows are really geared towards tourists. For the real deal, get involved and attend a milonga.
CLUB IT UP
BA is not short of its gay clubs and bars, any online gay guide will give you a full listings that will take in all the must-go parties. For something a little more local and alternative check out the mixed “Club69″ at Niceto Club on Thursdays and rammed “Glam” on Saturdays – guaranteed good-times. Locals don’t get to clubs til about 2.30am at the earliest, so get yourself on local-time, there’s nothing worse than an empty nightclub.
UP AND COMING
Check out the less crowded and more bohemian Palermo Hollywood for an East Village, NY / Shoreditch, London bohemian vibe, with quaint cafes and bars and retro/vintage shops and boutiques. Also check out San Telmo, where the antiques market on a Sunday is a great place to mooch and people-watch, but on Saturdays the streets are great to wander so you can take in the architecture, without the hoards of tourists.
GETTING THERE
Delta and its partners will get you there fast, comfortable and for a reasonable cost. Check out their website for the latest offers and deals on flights from across the world.