Four days. That’s it. My entire world has been turned upside down – rather, I threw myself to the other side of the world – and I’ve accepted it in a way I would never have thought possible a few years ago. Though I consider myself a seasoned traveler, that experience has been largely limited to east Asia and modern nations, where order, cleanliness, and security are never far from one’s doorstep.
Although Peru is hardly a country of murderers and muggers, there are definitely downsides to being here in Arequipa, ones into which I hadn’t really put much thought because I was softened by life in Asia. I can honestly say if I had accepted a position in Lima, I might have already booked a flight home. Although the facts of being in a major metropolis – crowds, traffic, cost, lack of greenery – bother me, they aren’t deal breakers. But being in a dirty, polluted South American capital in the wintertime, guaranteed to be overcast and misty, is a recipe for disaster with me.
Although I had a nice hotel courtesy of my SPG points, the weather coupled with the proximity to those living in absolute poverty really deterred me from venturing too far. I had my pisco sour, explored a little of Miraflores, and practiced what little Spanish I knew, but a sudden illness on my day of departure didn’t help matters. All that work to provide a clean, seamless transition into Latin America came to nought, and my first two days were spent lying in bed waiting for the pain to subside.
Depressing? A bit. But being sick is probably inevitable for every traveler to Peru. Even if you avoid the tap water and street food (restaurants are usually ok), there’s always the chance contact with the air or the water absorbed during a shower could throw off your immune system. I was staying in a five-star hotel with clean food in sterile conditions, and it happened to me.
Now the good news. After I had downed three Immodium tablets and somehow was able to get through a taxi ride, check in, security, and a flight without exploding, Arequipa revived me. This city is everything I had hoped it would be:
1. The Andes mountains are right outside my window
2. The sun is always shining, even in winter
3. The Plaza de Armas is a laid back place to enjoy an outdoor lunch or time with friends
4. As a stop along the “tourist trail”, Arequipa is no stranger to gringos and gringas, and the foods they like.
So where does that leave me now? Looking for how best I can be comfortable. It’s only been four days. As I’m sure is the case with every traveler starting to make their home in a new country, I think back to my first days in others. I was very comfortable in Korea, but then I remember how disoriented and confused I was that first week. I ate frozen chicken nuggets for dinner because I wasn’t ready to brave a restaurant and try kimchi. My apartment was filthy and lacking my personal touch. I didn’t know where to go, what to do, who to see. Over the next few weeks, I found some friends. Learned of new places to eat. Studied the language and cultural sites. It just takes time.
Some of my most pressing concerns are finding decent restaurants, looking for a new place to live (wifi is fine, as you can see, but it’s a little run down), and first and foremost searching for a running trail. Peruvians are definitely a running people, but most of their efforts seem to be limited to the wee morning hours when the risk of death by taxi or bus is diminished… that, and the temperature is more ideal. However, I still can’t find a place outside of the major roads, where I’m sure to inhale way too much carbon monoxide for my taste.
What have I eaten so far?
Chifa
A combination of Peruvian and Asian dishes. Chaufa con pollo is fried rice with chicken, but there are plenty of options available.
Lunch courses
For between 5-30 soles (usually 5-10), one can find a restaurant offering 2-3 courses of great Peruvian food, including soup, salad, and the main dish of meat and rice.
Chicha Morada
The staple Peruvian drink, made from purple corn. This one tastes very sweet, but does make my stomach a little queasy.
Side notes: eating alone is acceptable (unlike in Korea). Leaving something on one’s plate is acceptable. Guinea pigs and alpaca can be eaten. Glass Coke bottles must be drunk on site, or returned so they can be reused. Providing enough change can be a bit of a hassle for smaller shops and restaurants.
As far as the language is concerned, I’m very much in the dark. Time and energy, that’s all it will take. I can’t learn like the students I teach, forced into a classroom and expecting to comprehend everything out of the target country. Rather, being surrounded by native speakers and foreign writing will allow information to seep into my subconscious and make me fluent enough to survive.
One of the reasons I chose Peru, in addition to finally seeing the Nazca lines and Macchu Picchu, was the short contract length. Even if I were to do something again in Asia, the minimum requirement would be a year’s service. In Arequipa, I’m liable for three months, perhaps more if I’d like. There’s little pressure. And already I’ve discovered some of the teachers who simply don’t qualify for positions in Asia: fluent English speakers who just happen to have citizenship to non-native English speaking countries. It’s going to be interesting to hear their stories, and how they found their way here.
As for me, Peru has already put things in perspective. I think I do eventually want a nice house in a foreign country as a base of operations. And, as it stands now (things could change), I think I belong in Asia.