Pearls are the symbol of purity and sophistication. Their hard-earned place as one of the most elegant pieces of jewelry is in part due to the efforts of fashion trendsetters such as Coco Chanel and Grace Kelly. But few of us actually know how pearls come to be or how to tell the many different types apart.
Pearl Formation and Natural vs. Cultured Pearls
Pearls are the beautiful organic creation of a living organism: the mollusk. The process begins when a minuscule intruder (such as a sea parasite) becomes lodged inside the mollusk, which attempts to eliminate the trespasser. Since this intruder cannot be eradicated, the mollusk begins to coat the parasite in a substance called conchiolin, aimed to coat the trespasser. Additional layers of nacre, a whitish substance, are then secreted and bind to the conchiolin. This continuous nacre coating process results in the formation of a beautiful, white pearl.
But what most wearers nowadays aren’t aware of is that the majority of pearls are farmed rather than naturally grown. The jewelry business requires perfectly round pearls and as such, overfishing has led to the tiny treasure not being available. Since jewel makers were forced to keep up with high demand, during the 20th century, a new process was developed. Cultured pearls are the result of this process. Though the process is the same, the irritant is artificially inserted into the oyster and the mollusk is cared for until the pearl is fully developed.
Pearl Types Used in Jewelry
Different oysters create different pearls and you will find, when shopping for the perfect pearls that they come in various shapes, sizes and colors. The post popular pearl varieties are:
Akoya: these classic pearls are known for their relatively small size but perfect round shape and highly reflective luster. With rose, creamy or silver overtones, the Akoya pearl’s origins date back to the early 1900’s. These pearls are cultured in the Pinctada fucata martensi, the smallest pearl-bearing saltwater oyster.
Cortez: they are available in a multitude of colors, including shimmering black.
Mabe: also known as blister pearls, Mabe pearls are half-pearls which developed against the inside of the oyster’s shell. The most popular varieties are grown in the Ptera penguin, Ptera sterna and Pinctada maxima mollusks. They are not only highly colorful but also sought after because of their lustrous appearance.
South Sea: these pearls are widely known for their quality and beauty. Growing notably larger than other pearls, with silvery-overtones and stunning smoothness, South Sea pearls are some of the most extraordinary treasures to be found in jewelry. South Sea pearls can also bear golden hues, ranging from champagne to 24k gold tones.
Tahitian: these beautiful pearls first appeared during the 1970’s, when the first harvest of Tahitians numbered a total of 71 pearls. They soon gained massive popularity because of their natural black hues and overtones.
The Various Forms of Pearl Jewelry
Pearl jewelry is a classic and never-aging piece. A must-have for any elegant lady, pearl necklaces, earrings and bracelets carry an intrinsic elegance. Since 1961’s release of Breakfast at Tiffany’s, when Audrey Hepburn captured the planet’s imagination with her one-of-a-kind pearl necklace, these jewels became a part of pop culture history. The various types of pearl necklaces include:
The Bib: Bib necklaces represent pearl necklaces considering of several strands of pearls of varying lengths.
Princess: Widely recognized as the classic pearl piece, the Princess lies slightly below the neck. Fashion icons such as Grace Kelly often turned to Princess necklaces, which are 17 to 19 inches long.
Collar: Collar necklaces also consist of numerous pearl strands. They became famous during the Victorian era and are worn high on the neck. Collar pearl necklaces measure 12 to 13 inches in length.
Choker: A variation of the Collar, Chocker necklaces are worn a bit lower on the neck and are 2-4 inches longer than their shorter counterparts.
Matinee: Longer pearl necklaces, such as the Matinee, are perfect for elegant occasions. It measures 20 to 24 inches in length.
Opera: This necklace falls under the bust line and is worn mostly at formal occasions. It is usually 30 to 36 inches long.
Rope: Rope necklaces are the longest of all pearl necklaces, measuring over 36 inches in length. It can be doubled or knotted to add a refined touch.
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