I moved around yesterday like I was a young kid. I refused to give in and take it slow. Putting in that corner cabinet really pissed me off. I flew up and down the cellar stairs getting tools and whatever else I needed. Later on that night about 2000, my right leg (with the metal hip) starting hurting. I also had trouble walking and I couldn't take a full stride.
I didn't think much of it and thought that after a good night's sleep, life would be wonderful in the morning again. I went to bed and before 2100 I was in agony. My hip had never hurt this much before. Not even when I built the garden shed a few years ago. I got up to get some motrin and that was trip through hell and back. Constant stabbing aching pain, and a 10 second round trip that took me 10 minutes to do.
My wife looked up something on her cell phone and she told me take some motrin. Duh! I just took that. I somehow managed to get back into bed without passing out. She put a heating pad on my hip and that felt wonderful. The pain started to subside and I fell asleep. I woke up a few hours later and I was pain free. I'm not complaining but the previous couple hours are ones I don't ever want to revisit.
Today I kept in mind what I did yesterday and took it easy. I'm having a plumber come in and do the water pipes. I may call him back and have him do the sink hook up too. I spent the rest of the day trying to finish up the rehabbing of the #3. That shouldn't involve a lot running around.
Siegley iron and chipbreaker
I forgot these pics from yesterday. This is the condition I got these two in. Ready to go as is and I did use them as is.
back of the iron has been flattened
I'll take that because I dislike flattening the backs of irons and chisels.
this needs some work
The chipbreaker had a bit of daylight between it and the iron. I didn't get any shavings jammed up under it when I used but I'll fix it anyways.
this side is off a bit
This is the side/end that I saw the daylight on. It won't take but a few minutes to get this flat and even end to end.
prepped my sanding belts
I cut the belts last night before I left the shop. I put them underneath the marble threshold to flatten out the hump in them.
#3 sanded with 180
The marks on the bottom edge I had to hand sand out. I was getting anywhere trying to sand them out on the threshold. I have no plans to use this on shooting board so I'm overly concerned with getting or maintaining square.
#4
The sole of this plane had some paint on it from the boards I used it on. Overall, the plane looks grungy so I decided to do a full sanding of the sole and the cheeks. I had to put the 80 and 120 grit belts back on and start there with this plane.
changed where I cut them
I cut the blue belt on the round part of the belt. That put the splice almost in the middle of the threshold when laid down on it. Every stroke with the plane back and forth went over the splice. On the other belts I cut it on the splice and put that part under the clamp. That left me with prime, uninterrupted sanding real estate.
sanding do-dad
This is the eraser I use to clean my 12" sanding disc and I tried it here. The heavier grits (80, 120,etc) stay relatively clean but the smaller grits (220 and up) clog up quickly. Even with frequent vacuuming, they still clog quickly. I tried the eraser after each time I vacuumed and it seemed to make a difference. I could see and feel the sandpaper cutting better than when I just vacuumed it.
look at what I found
I thought I had a set of smaller torx screwdrivers but when I didn't find them in my electronics toolbox, I assumed I didn't have any. I didn't think to look at where my workshop screwdrivers are kept.
finish polishing with 600 grit
I'm not a fan of this 3 in-a-row sandpaper but I didn't have a choice here. I took it slow and I only lost 2 pieces. I think that is pretty good as I used this setup to polish three other planes besides the #3.
all 600 grit
I've had this paper for over 23 years. I got it before I left the Navy in 1994. I was stationed on a boat that was being decommissioned and the last sea trip we made on her was a dump run. We went to sea for the express purpose of throwing everything not needed overboard. I saved this pile of 600 grit paper. I have maybe used an inch over the years. I just missed getting a pile of 400 grit at the same time.
I think readers know that I like shiny
#3 sanded and shined up
the 4 hand planes I did today
I did my other #3, the #4 that had paint on it's sole, and the 4 1/2.
doing a plane iron inventory
2 of the four LN irons I have. One A-2 and three 0-1s'. I have two LN planes, a 51 and a 4 1/2 and both of them have 0-1 irons. I'm good on LN irons but I would like to replace the one A-2 with another 0-1.
10 1/2 and # 8 irons
I had bought a replacement frog for a 10 1/2 and it had an iron and chipbreaker too. This one is sharp and ready to go. I now have three #8 irons. The one in the #8 now is a Record iron that fits and works perfectly. I should only have two irons for the #8 but I bought an iron/chipbreaker thinking it was for the 4 1/2 but I had mind farted on the size of the two. Now I have three and I'm good on these too.
2 5/6" wide irons
These are for my 4 1/2 but they will also fit the #6 and #7. The #6 has a cambered iron and I don't need a replacement for it but I do need a back up for the #7. The iron on the left is from Tools from Japan I got it because it is the only aftermarket iron I can find that is close to the size of the OEM Stanleys. The iron/chipbreaker on the right is the Siegley I just got. It is looking like I don't need any more irons for the 4 1/2 or the #7.
#4 and #3 irons and extra chipbreakers
I have three #4 planes but only one back up iron for them. I have two #3 planes and I have 2 backup irons for them. I need to get a couple of more #4 irons and at least one backup #4 chipbreaker.
Stanley block plane iron
I offered this for free with the block plane but had no takers last year. The block
plane failed the bounce test with Mr Concrete Floor but I saved the iron.
spare iron for my Lee Valley rabbet plane
toothing iron for my LV BU Jack
iron from Tools from Japan
#8 iron in front, Tools from Japan iron in the back
There is a slight difference in the thickness of these two. The iron from Tools from Japan is only about 2 frog hairs thicker than the #8. I shouldn't have to go nutso pushing the frog back to the heel to get it to fit. I checked the Tools from Japan website and this is the only Stanley bench iron replacement I saw on it.
The only plane I haven't actively sought to get a replacement iron for is my #5. I don't use it that often and it's the same size as the #4 irons. So if I get more #4 irons, I will have a spare for the #5. I use my Lee Valley BU Jack more than the Stanley.
an old tapered iron
modified chipbreaker
This came in a wooden Jack I bought and it was modified by the previous owner.(?) Whoever did this also squared off the slot in the iron.
won't fit in any metal plane I have
The bevel side
The bevel of this looks like crap. It looks like it was hacked at but with a bit of work it'll be redeemable.
offered up for sale
The far left iron is a freebie to whoever wants one of the others and asks for it. The second from left iron is the tapered one and it is 2 1/16" wide. $17 including shipping in the lower 48 in a flat rate box. You know blurb to follow, first email with the earliest date time stamp, yada, yada, yada.......... If someone wants it that doesn't reside in the lower 48, $17 plus actual shipping costs to you.
The third iron from the left is a Lee Valley A2 iron and chipbreaker. It's 2 3/8 wide and I had bought it to use in my #7 but it wouldn't fit. With the frog backed up as far as it would go, I had no more adjuster to turn to move the iron in or out. I used it in my LN 51 for over a year before I put a LN 0-1 back in it. $20 including shipping to the lower 48 in a flat rate box. Same blurb as above applies here.
The last one on the right is a Hock iron and chipbreaker that was in my #5. Hock was the only after market iron I bought that didn't need the mouth widened nor involved having the iron shoved back to the heel. I have gone back to using Stanley irons in all of my planes and I intend to stay with them.
Offered up for $20 including shipping to the lower 48 in a flat rate box. Same blurb as above applies here. ****This iron has the corners rounded off so it won't leave plane tracks.**** Both the Hock and the Lee Valley iron are sharpened straight across - they are not cambered and neither iron has a secondary bevel.
fixing the chipbreaker
The shiny part was on the stone with the tail on the bench. Moved it up and down the side of the stone, trying to keep it square, until the edge was consistent side to side.
sharpened the bottom edge
The edge right where it lays on the iron, had some rough spots and a couple of minutes on the coarse stone got rid of it. I stropped it after I did the same to the iron.
another 150 year old patent date
I know that this iron and chipbreaker isn't original to the #3 I'm rehabbing. It has the movable bedrock frog and that wasn't even a thought back in 1867.
I'm liking this runway sharpening
I am going to keep the threshold and the 80 grit belt by the sharpening bench. This long distance makes quick work on establishing the bevel and rolling a burr.
trying to remove my fingerprints
I saw the blood on the guide and I had to search for the source. I didn't even feel this nor was aware that I had shaved this fingertip. The iron I'm sharpening now is the OEM #3 I bought a couple of weeks ago. I flattened the back, filed the corners round, and I'm establishing my bevel here.
cleaning up the level cap
got the last of the rust spots
The keyhole circle I did with a dowel wrapped with sandpaper. The wire wheel got the rest of them.
working on my mini anvil
The level cap had bend in it and I was able to tap most of it out on the pointed part of the anvil. I know that the pointed thing in the back is called a hardy and I'm assuming that the pointy blue thing is called the horn. I'll be looking up anvil part names after I'm done writing this blog.
my best friend too
I have used this stuff for years to clean my stainless steel pots and pans. I never knew it would work wonders on brass. I got this tip from Jonathan who blogged about the Chicken Taj Mahal of the Pacific Northwest he built. He also blogged about a plane restoration and he used this to clean the adjuster wheel. I couldn't believe how shiny and bright he got the adjuster. I have struggled on every plane rehab I've done and I never got any of my adjusters to look even half as good as his was.
it's pristine
I drop a bunch of this in a plastic container with water and drop the adjuster in it to soak for a while. After about a ten minutes, I take it out and scrub it all over with a toothbrush. Any stubborn areas I treat with a paste of a little water and a lot of powder and use extra elbow grease with the toothbrush.
where my shop day ended
I scrubbed the inside of the plane, rinsed it out, and then blew it dry with my hairdryer. At this point I am not going to paint this. There is a little lost of some japanning aft of the frog seat and none forward of it. Everything on the plane has been sanded, shined, cleaned, and oiled up. All that I need to call this done, and hear the congratulatory oohs and aahs, is the rear tote.
accidental woodworker
trivia corner
Who was Whitcomb Judson?
answer - he invented the zipper