Delmonico
Uptown 1: Garden District & Environs: 1300 St Charles Ave. 504-525-4937. Map.
Dressy.
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Website
ANECDOTES AND ANALYSIS
Delmonico is the best restaurant directly on a Mardi Gras parade route–even though it’s closed on Fat Tuesday and Monday. The rest of the year, it’s my kind of restaurant. Its menu is dominated by classic French-Creole dishes updated with current ingredients and kitchen techniques. They play the same game with the dining rooms, enclosed in a century-old building that nevertheless has a decidedly contemporary feel.
If you happen to find yourself at Delmonico in the week before Mardi Gras, you will enjoy a half a great dinner, go outside to watch the parade, then come back in for dessert and after-dinner libations. Great fun.
Charcuterie board at Emeril’s Delmonico.
WHY IT’S NOTEWORTHY
If your taste runs to the more traditional side of Chef Emeril Lagasse’s culinary provinces, you may prefer Delmonico to Emeril’s flagship restaurant. While the menus are different, the general style is the same. So are the customers: When full, Emeril’s directs its overflow to Delmonico. The food at Del’s (the house nickname for the place) has a non-ironic retro quality that fits right into the restaurant. Delmonico’s has had its highs and lows, and always seems to be in a state of flux. More than a few locals call it their favorite of Emeril’s three New Orleans establishments.
Crabmeat Remick.
WHAT’S GOOD
After an unsuccessful some years ago with a menu of mostly small plates, Del’s has returned to a more traditional, mostly Creole offering, orchestrated by Chef de Cuisine Tony Scanio. Although Emeril was one of the first chefs here to put heavy emphasis on the origins of its ingredients–you are told where everything came from, for instance–the kitchen does know how to cook, and isn’t afraid to revive a great old dish. For a time, Delmonico leaned heavily in the steakhouse direction. It still buys prime beef and dry-ages a lot of it in house, this has become less of a specialty in recent years. The wine list keeps up with the one at Emeril’s flagship restaurant in its distinction.
BACKSTORY
Delmonico turned 100 the year before Emeril Lagasse bought it in 1998. Founder Anthony Commander–whose brother founded the restaurant of the same name–came to New Orleans after working in Delmonico in New York City. There never was a connection between that restaurant and this, but the name was synonymous with grand dining in the 1800s, and Commander borrowed it. For most of its pre-Emeril history, Delmonico was managed by the La Franca family. Their restaurant was in the same category with Galatoire’s and Arnaud’s, but because it was well away from the French Quarter, it was less formal and expensive. People who remember dining in the old Delmonico knew it as an old-fashioned, excellent Creole restaurant run by the hospitable Angie Brown and Rose Dietrich, whose father made the restaurant what it was. When Emeril bought it, he performed a deep and expensive renovation, much of which had to be done all over again after Katrina, for as much money.
In the bar at Delmonico.
DINING ROOM
The front dining room’s lofty ceilings create rich spaces, and its windows allow diners to keep track of the streetcars. On the other side of a large open door are more tables, the bar, and a piano–sometimes with a pianist. The Cornstalk Room is the most atmospheric room in the house, one section of it skylit. (You pass through the kitchen to get to it.) The service staff is a bit less formal and skillful than before the storm, but that’s true all over these days. On this other hand, Delmonico remains literally a white-tablecloth restaurant. Ron Jones plays a very fine piano and sings in a bluesy way in the bar on weekends.
REVIEWER’S NOTEPAD
More ruminations appear in our Dining Diary. Click on any of the dates below for those reports, each written a few days after a meal at Delmonico.
1/22/2016 ~
FULL ONLINE MENU
BEST DISHES
The menu undergoes sweeping changes with the seasons, but the style remains steady. The checkmarks ✔ indicate recommended dishes
Starters
✔ House made charcuterie
Artisanal cheese board
✔ Mussels and fries
Chaurice sausage, ancho chile broth, lemon aioli
Stuffed mirliton with shrimp and crabmeat, Chisesi ham, and roasted red pepper butter
✔ Fried oysters bordelaise, fettuccine, sun dried tomatoes, parmesan, garlic butter
✔ ✔ Emeril’s barbecue shrimp, baked grits cake
✔ ✔ Crispy pork cheek, dirty rice, scallions
Stuffed boudin balls, Louisiana cane pepper jelly
✔ Jumbo lump crabmeat Remick, bacon, parmesan, toasted French bread
Sweet basil gnocchi, Italian sausage, artichoke, pecorino, lemon, oregano breadcrumbs
✔ Baked oysters Rockefeller and Bbienville
Conch beignet, avocado remoulade, red onion, cilantro, habenero gastrique
Gumbo
✔ Turtle soup with sherry
Mixed lettuce salad, tomato, cucumber, fresh herb vinaigrette
Romaine-heart Caesar salad, boiled egg, anchovy, parmesan
✔ Iceberg lettuce wedge, bacon, grape tomato, croutons, buttermilk dressing
✔ New Orleans “Guappo” salad, salami, olive salad, aged provolone, young arugula, romaine, extra virgin olive oil
Roasted beet salad, arugula, satsuma, spiced dates, pistachio crème fraîche
New York strip steak, dry-aged.
Entrées
✔ Glazed Duroc pork chop, red beana and rice congri, lime mojo
Louisiana Drumfish meuniere, artichoke, fingerling potatoes, local blue crabmeat, arugula, grape tomatoes
Crisp duck leg confit, sweet potato and pecan waffle, braised collard greens, Steen’s cane jus
Gulf shrimp Creole, okra and rice, plantain fritters
Panneèd swordfish, pancetta, asparagus and shiitake mushroom risotto, fennel, roasted tomato vinaigrette
Creole braised lamb shank, roasted poblano grits, mirliton
Pan roasted salmon, andouille, mustard greens, black eyed peas, green tomato chow chow
✔ Chicken breast Clemenceau (ham, portobello mushrooms, sugar snap peas, brabant potatoes, béarnaise sauce)
✔ Gulf fish of the day, shrimp, grilled vegetables, mirliton pickle, bouillabaisse broth
✔ Steaks with herb butter, Emeril’s worcestershire, béarnaise and chimichurri sauces:
✔ Shoulder filet
Filet tenderloin
✔ New York strip, dry-aged 14 days
Bone-in ribeye, dry-aged 21 days
Sides
Slow cooked collard greens, pickled pork, Steen’s cane vinegar
✔ Rum-glazed yams
Candied pecans
✔ Caramelized brussels sprouts, guanciale
Whipped Yukon Gold potatoes
Black-eye peas and mustard greens
Baked macaroni and cheese
✔ Mushrooms bordelaise
Garlic butter, lemon
✔ French fries
Lemon aioli
Green beans amandine
Poblano and cheddar grits
Dessert
Salted caramel doberge cake
Apple-cranberry compote, brown butter crumble
From the oven chocolate chip cookies, ice cold vanilla milk
Warm sweet potato and bacon handpies
Vanilla ice cream, brown butter icing, sweet potato – bourbon sauce
Daily ice cream selection
Daily sorbet selection
Turtle sundae
✔ Dulce de leche ice cream, pecan chocolate brownie crumble, chocolate sauce
✔ Hummingbird bread pudding, cream cheese sauce, banana ice cream, toasted pecans
King cake doughnuts, strawberry compote, toasted walnuts
Coconut-chocolate cream pie
✔ Traditional Bananas Foster, vanilla bean ice cream, salted pecans, prepared tableside
Assortment of cheeses
Starters
✔ House made charcuterie
Artisanal cheese board
✔ Mussels and fries
Chaurice sausage, ancho chile broth, lemon aioli
Stuffed mirliton with shrimp and crabmeat, Chisesi ham, and roasted red pepper butter
✔ Fried oysters bordelaise, fettuccine, sun dried tomatoes, parmesan, garlic butter
✔ ✔ Emeril’s barbecue shrimp, baked grits cake
✔ ✔ Crispy pork cheek, dirty rice, scallions
Stuffed boudin balls, Louisiana cane pepper jelly
✔ Jumbo lump crabmeat Remick, bacon, parmesan, toasted French bread
Sweet basil gnocchi, Italian sausage, artichoke, pecorino, lemon, oregano breadcrumbs
✔ Baked oysters Rockefeller and Bbienville
Conch beignet, avocado remoulade, red onion, cilantro, habenero gastrique
Gumbo
✔ Turtle soup with sherry
Mixed lettuce salad, tomato, cucumber, fresh herb vinaigrette
Romaine-heart Caesar salad, boiled egg, anchovy, parmesan
✔ Iceberg lettuce wedge, bacon, grape tomato, croutons, buttermilk dressing
✔ New Orleans “Guappo” salad, salami, olive salad, aged provolone, young arugula, romaine, extra virgin olive oil
Roasted beet salad, arugula, satsuma, spiced dates, pistachio crème fraîche
Entrées
✔ Glazed Duroc pork chop, red beana and rice congri, lime mojo
Louisiana Drumfish meuniere, artichoke, fingerling potatoes, local blue crabmeat, arugula, grape tomatoes
Crisp duck leg confit, sweet potato and pecan waffle, braised collard greens, Steen’s cane jus
Gulf shrimp Creole, okra and rice, plantain fritters
Panneèd swordfish, pancetta, asparagus and shiitake mushroom risotto, fennel, roasted tomato vinaigrette
Creole braised lamb shank, roasted poblano grits, mirliton
Pan roasted salmon, andouille, mustard greens, black eyed peas, green tomato chow chow
✔ Chicken breast Clemenceau (ham, portobello mushrooms, sugar snap peas, brabant potatoes, béarnaise sauce)
✔ Gulf fish of the day, shrimp, grilled vegetables, mirliton pickle, bouillabaisse broth
✔ Steaks with herb butter, Emeril’s worcestershire, béarnaise and chimichurri sauces:
✔ Shoulder filet
Filet tenderloin
✔ New York strip, dry-aged 14 days
Bone-in ribeye, dry-aged 21 days
Sides
Slow cooked collard greens, pickled pork, Steen’s cane vinegar
✔ Rum-glazed yams
Candied pecans
✔ Caramelized brussels sprouts, guanciale
Whipped Yukon Gold potatoes
Black-eye peas and mustard greens
Baked macaroni and cheese
✔ Mushrooms bordelaise
Garlic butter, lemon
✔ French fries
Lemon aioli
Green beans amandine
Poblano and cheddar grits
Dessert
Salted caramel doberge cake
Apple-cranberry compote, brown butter crumble
From the oven chocolate chip cookies, ice cold vanilla milk
Warm sweet potato and bacon handpies
Vanilla ice cream, brown butter icing, sweet potato – bourbon sauce
Daily ice cream selection
Daily sorbet selection
Turtle sundae
✔ Dulce de leche ice cream, pecan chocolate brownie crumble, chocolate sauce
✔ Hummingbird bread pudding, cream cheese sauce, banana ice cream, toasted pecans
King cake doughnuts, strawberry compote, toasted walnuts
Coconut-chocolate cream pie
✔ Traditional Bananas Foster, vanilla bean ice cream, salted pecans, prepared tableside
Assortment of cheeses
FOR BEST RESULTS
Avoid busy times in the city (holidays, big conventions, etc.). Emeril’s sends its overflow here, and that sometimes overwhelms the place. Arrive early to have a great cocktail in the very appealing bar. A very solid menu plan is to build your own tasting menu out of the large appetizer department.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
They seem to be incapable of serving a really great cup of coffee here. That’s especially true of the espresso deprtments.
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
Dining Environment +3
Consistency
Service+2
Value
Attitude +3
Wine & Bar +3
Hipness +1
Local Color +2
SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
Live music some nights
Romantic
Good view
Good for business meetings
Many private rooms
Open Sunday dinner
Open Monday dinner
Open some holidays
Historic
Good for children
Free valet parking
Reservations honored promptly
Quail With Dried Cherries And Pinot Noir
Susan Spicer is one of New Orleans’ most celebrated chefs–and it’s not merely because she’s one of the handful of accomplished female culinarians in America. I find her imagination to be most fertile, and it’s tempered by uncommonly accurate good taste. This dish plays the cherrylike aspects of California Pinot Noir wine against real cherries. Dried cherries, which might be a little hard to find, are to cherries what raisins are to grapes. (You could probably get away with using fresh cherries in this.)
Quail with sun-dried cherries and Pinot Noir.
8 quails, partially deboned
2 oz. dried cherries
1 1/4 cup Pinot Noir
1 French dried shallot, chopped
1 sprig fresh tarragon, chopped
1/2 cup strong quail or chicken stock
2 Tbs. currant jelly
2 Tbs. butter, softened
Salt and pepper
10 oz. bag fresh spinach
1. Plump the dried cherries in 1/4 cup of the wine for 2 hours.
2. In a small saucepan, reduce the wine with the shallots and the tarragon to about half its original volume. Add the quail stock and currant jelly. Reduce until somewhat syrupy. Whisk in the butter and add salt and pepper to taste. Remove from the heat and keep warm.
3. Season the quails with salt and pepper and grill or saute until done–about four minutes, depending on size.
4. With the water clinging to leaves after washing, wilt the spinach in a large pot over medium heat. The leaves should keep a little bit of body.
5. Place the spinach on a plate. Top with two quails per person. Surround the plate with the sauce, making sure everyone gets a few cherries.
Serves four.
Crepes With Crabmeat Florentine @ La Crepe Nanou
This is the hybrid of two kinds of savory crepes on the menu at the city’s longest-running crepe specialist. The crabmeat crepe is good enough, but add a little of the well-seasoned creamed spinach from the florentine version, and you really have something. Make a good appetizer or light entree. All you have to do is find an open table. The place is very popular, for the best of reasons: the French cooking is terrific, and the prices moderate.
La Crepe Nanou. Uptown: 1410 Robert. 504-899-2670.
This is among the 500 best dishes in New Orleans area restaurants. Click here for a list of the other 499.
February 4, 2016
Days Until. . .
Mardi Gras–5
Valentine’s Day–10
Annals Of Sandwich Making
Today is the birthday (in 1902) of Charles Lindbergh. Beyond his obvious claims to fame, he was the inspiration for a nearly-extinct sandwich. The Lone Eagle is a grilled turkey, ham and cheese sandwich on white bread. After it’s assembled, two of the corners are cut off, rotated ninety degrees, and cheese gets melted over the whole thing. It is supposed to look like an airplane.
Chronicles Of Candy
Today is the disputed birthday (although we’re sure the year was 1930) of Snickers, the biggest-selling candy bar in the world. Two billion dollars’ worth are sold every year. It was Frank Mars’s second major creation in what would become an immensely successful line of candy bars. Like the Mars Bar (later renamed Milky Way), Snickers consisted of layers of nougat and caramel, covered in chocolate. The magic touch was the addition of peanuts. Snickers was named after one of the Mars family’s horses. It reached a low point when people started deep-frying them. All that’s left now is to crumble bacon and blue cheese on top of it. Then the world will end.
Today’s Flavor
Today is Stuffed Mushroom Day. The impulse to stuff a mushroom is strong. You pull the stem out and it leaves a gaping pocket begging to be filled. The range of stuffings is matched by the variability of the results. The best stuffed mushrooms are fantastically tasty tidbits. The worst are murky, soggy blobs in which it’s hard to tell where the mushroom ends and the stuffing begins.
Begin with fresh, firm, mushrooms. Expensive exotic mushrooms should be left to make their own statements. Shiitakes or portobellos are fine, but the basic white mushroom may be the best of all. Buy them a size bigger than you think you need.
For the stuffing, crabmeat, small shrimp, or oysters; a little bacon; bread crumbs; garlic or green onions, and seasonings. The stuffing should be moist but not wet. After stuffing, the mushrooms should go under a hot broiler until toasty, but not so long that the mushrooms start flattening out. The final touch is a small amount of something rich. Melted cheese or hollandaise is the ultimate.
Certain foods are the perfect size for a mushroom cavity. Snails, for example. Crawfish. Big lumps of crabmeat. Whatever you do, be prepared to stuff, bake and sauce your mushrooms immediately before you serve them. Hot mushrooms filled with warm stuffing turn to glop quickly.
Deft Dining Rule #156:
Never order stuffed mushrooms without knowing what they’re stuffed with.
Edible Dictionary
escabeche, [ess-kah-BEH-shay], Spanish, n., adj.–Most fish dishes that are marinated and cooked have those processes performed in that order. This approach reverses the order. The fish (it can be made with other foods, but fish is most common) is first fried or (less commonly) grilled. Then it’s marinated in a combination of vinegar, herbs, pepper, and salt, and served cold. Variations on the idea are found throughout the Mediterranean countries, but it is most popular in Spain. In New Orleans, we’re most likely to see it in Caribbean cooking. A Jamaican cousin to escabeche–“escoveitched fish”–is a little different. The fish is marinated first, then grilled.
Gourmet Gazetteer
Fishville is nineteen miles north of Alexandria, in the center of Louisiana. It’s in the Kisatchie National Forest, and has long been a casual spot for outdoor recreation in the long summers. Many swimming holes are in the area, fed by numerous creeks, all of which are running streams with fish to be caught. Fishville is old enough to have once had a French name: Poissonville. The place to eat some fish is nine miles south of Fishville in Ball: Paradise Catfish Kitchen.
Music To Go Hungry By
Today in 1983, Karen Carpenter died of starvation at age thirty-two. She suffered from anorexia nervosa–the mental illness that makes a person believe that she’s too fat, and must not eat, even though in fact she’s already dangerously undernourished. That this should happen to the extraordinarily successful singer–she and her brother were The Carpenters, whose records still sell briskly–got the word out that it could happen to anybody. Once I overheard a young woman sigh and say, “Sometimes I just forget to eat!” I said, “Are you crazy?”
Annals Of Food Writing
Alexis Benoit Soyer was born in France today in 1810. He was a chef who moved to London and became famous for, among other things, inventing the soup kitchen. With a portable setup and with the help of the British government, he fed thousands of starving Irish during the Potato Famine there. He is well remembered in the United Kingdom. He was an extraordinary culinarian, inventing kitchen equipment and writing a number of books.
Annals Of Dessert
In Brussels today in 1998, Microsoft’s Bill Gates had a pie thrown in his face. A cream pie with a lot of whipped cream. Was it lemon? It should have been. And renamed “Pie 8.0.”
Food Namesakes
This is the brithday (1947) of Dan Quayle, the Vise-Presodant during the first Bush Admonistrition. . . British comic actress Hylda Baker came out of the oven today in 1905. . . Noodles, the guitarist with rock group The Offspring, was born as Kevin Wasserman today in 1963.
Words To Eat By
“Life is too short to stuff a mushroom.”–Shirley Conran, British restaurateur and author. (This quotation is also credited to many other sources. And it’s not even true. Stuffing a mushroom is a lot less work than boning out a quail, for example.)
Words To Drink By
“You must be careful about giving any drink whatsoever to a bore. A lit-up bore is the worst in the world.”–Lord David Cecil, English writer in the mid-1900s.
He must have been drinking when he said this.
Preparing the Whole Flounder For Eating.
Some people don’t mind the bones. Others freak out at the sight of even a tiny bone. What is a waiter to do?
Click here for the cartoon.