Saturday, May 17, 2014.
A Long Ride On A Bunch Of Bayous. Then An Atomic Burger.
Chuck Billeaud invites us to the Broussard, Louisiana headquarters of his family’s corporation, which celebrates a hundred years in business today. Aside from being the dad of two girls–classmates of our Mary Leigh–Chuck is chairman of the board of an enterprise that began by growing sugar cane in the vast fertile prairie south of Lafayette. Oil was discovered under the canefields, and that shifted the company’s interests. In recent years it moved its focus again into real estate. The growth of Lafayette requires lots of lots for malls, offices, and industrial uses, and the Billeaud Company has plenty to lease.
It’s a good party on a very pleasant day. A big tent has a Cajun band playing while the usual bayou refreshments circulate. I stay busy talking to some two dozen people who engage me in conversation about my Topic A. Mary Ann does the same thing, but with different people who have much to say on her favorite subject: politics. I keep my distance and stick to food.
Among the people I know here is fellow food writer Marcelle Bienvenu. Her best-known book is Who’s Your Mama, Are You Catholic, and Can You Make A Roux?, but she’s done a lot of other good stuff, notably co-authoring what I think is Emeril’s best cookbook, Real & Rustic. She teaches in Nicholls State University’s superb culinary program these days. I’ve known Marcelle since I was a college student myself. Our paths have crossed many times, most notably when she and Dick Brennan, Sr. and I held a ten-year series of monthly dinners a trois at Commander’s Palace during the reigns of Emeril and Jamie Shannon. If I had been keeping a journal like this during those times, the reports on those dinners would have made a great book.
The Billeaud Company’s old safe. Rumors that boudin is aged inside are false.
The main office of the Billeaud outfit has its own connection with Marcelle. She operated a restaurant in the very building in the 1970s. The place still looks sort of like a restaurant. It has a bar, for example. But that would be more or less normal in Cajun Country, wouldn’t it?
When the party begins winding down, Mary Ann and I head back to town via US 90. It’s a good deal longer than the I-10 route, but much more interesting. I haven’t been that way by car in a long time (although the Sunset Limited train takes more or less the same corridor.
She even lets me drive–until she gets tired of not being in control. The weather remains beautiful.
As we cross the Huey P. Long Bridge, MA says she’s hungry, and suggests a stop at Atomic Burger. She’s been once and liked it. The premises are in a too-modern strip mall space, with long bars with stools instead of tables or booths. (I’m seeing this a lot lately, as the fast-food business continues milking bigger numbers out of their properties.
Stand back! This is an Atomic Burger.
The burger is unusual in that the meat patty is so loosely packed that it comes close to falling apart. Neither of us can decided whether we like that. On the other hand, we both remember having had something like this in the past. The fries are fresh-cut and well above average.
The atomic aspect of the place involves the way they serve ice cream. They pour a mix into a glass, then shove a hose pushing liquid nitrogen through the creamy stuff. This freezes it immediately. I found it good enough, but what will they do when the novelty wears off? Or will there by a Space Age Trick Du Jour?
Sunday, May 18, 2014.
A Taxing Day.
I have an extension for my tax return, but I owe a pretty good number to the IRS this year, and I’d better get on the job to keep the interest under control. There is no task in the world I find less pleasant than this. But once I get going I keep going, all day long, with only a break for a walk with the dogs and an hour-long nap to rest my eyes. Even in that, I can’t escape the project: I dream the Feds are after me.
The health benefits of doing taxes are interesting. First, it kills your appetite, so you lose weight. Second, it relieves constipation.
Monday, May 19, 2014.
Copeland’s On A Bad Night.
Dogs are an endless entertainment. Now that Barry and Susie no longer take hours-long treks on the rural roads around the Cool Water Ranch (we have finally fenced them in) they look forward to joining me on my daily walk. They get so excited that they start mock-attacking and racing one another, as if there were a limited quantity of running around with Daddy. Are they showing off to me which one has the most hyperactivity?
The Marys bid adieu to the last of The Boy’s family, as they return to Baltimore. For a graduation present, The Boy’s parents gave him a (or, depending on how you pronounce the acronym, an) SUV. It’s his first car, well used, but good-looking. Now he will not have to rely on Mary Leigh to do all the driving. He will put it through its paces next week when, his college days over, he moves out of the dorm and heads home–sort of. It’s complicated, but somehow the Florida beaches and a bachelor party for a friend are involved.
Sheepshead off the grill at Copeland’s.
To dinner with MA and I at Copeland’s. I keep thinking that Copeland’s–at least the one we mainly patronize, in Covington–is getting better. One interesting new development is its use of sheepshead for blackening and grilling. Both those dishes–typically made with redfish or black drum–have long been among the best eats at Copeland’s. Using sheepshead is a great idea, because unlike the usual fish, it’s wild caught. And despite the unappealing name, it’s a great local fish.
Or it has been, lately. But not tonight. Overcooked and tepid fish, in a one-dimensional, buttery sauce. Underneath the fish are a bunch of soggy, limp vegetables. The red beans I asked for as a side were dessicated nearly to a solid, with way too much salt as a result. And when did Copeland’s stop bringing out their great biscuits automatically? (Or did the waiter just forget?)
Crabmeat and shrimp remoulade salad.
Mary Ann had a shrimp and crabmeat remoulade salad, The crabmeat wasn’t what I’d call the best around, but at least there was a lot of it–something that could not be said about the shrimp.
Bananas Foster at Copeland’s.
One dish was an unarguable victory. When they serve bananas Foster here, they don’t go through the flaming ritual at the table, but it’s still as good as any I’ve had. And served in a bowl big enough to take care of four adults.
It is widely supposed–often by their managements–that chain eateries are more consistent than free-standing restaurants. My experience says otherwise.
Surrey’s
Uptown: 1418 Magazine. 504-524-3828. Map.
Uptown: 4807 Magazine, 504-895-5757. Map.
Very Casual.
Cash only
Website
WHY IT’S NOTEWORTHY
Surrey’s reminds me of the first restaurants opened by people my age in the 1970s, full of innocent natural wholesomeness. A closer look at the menu reveals all the fat, bacon, red meat, and butter of any other neighborhood restaurant. However, that’s like the steak on a seafood restaurant’s menu: it’s there so you can bring friends with limited appetites. What charms Surrey’s regulars are the fresh juices, vegetables, whole grains, and all the rest of that eating culture. So it works for everybody.
WHAT’S GOOD
Despite the low prices (few entrees pass $10), Surrey’s buys fresh products of fine quality, many sourced locally. Many ingredients are made in house–smoked salmon and bagels, for example. About half the menu is available in vegetarian or vegan forms. The menu is imaginative, without going too far from conventional American breakfast (eggs, grits, biscuits, grilled meats) or lunch (sandwiches and salads).
BACKSTORY
Greg Surrey opened in a converted Lower Garden District house in 2001, at first focusing on the juice bar, salads, and offbeat breakfasts. The place caught on to a near-cult degree almost immediately, and that encouraged the growth of the menu. A number of now-major chefs passed through Surrey’s kitchen over the years, leaving their imprints. Surrey’s made a lot of friends by reopening quickly after Katrina, when its sort of food made people feel good.
DINING ROOM
The premises in the Lower Garden District are a bit cramped, with small tables lining the walls of a narrow room illuminated with naked light bulbs and stirred by ceiling fans. The tall ceilings help, as do the sidewalk tables. There’s a bit more space in the juice bar section. At the Uptown location, things are a bit breezier and open, although there are not many open spaces left unused.
ESSENTIAL DISHES
Basic breakfasts
»Crabmeat omelette, avocado, Brie cheese
Eggs; ham, sausage or bacon; grits or hash browns; toast or biscuit
Montana eggs (as above, with sausage gravy)
»Scrambled eggs, smoked salmon, cream cheese, capers
Roasted veggie omelette
Barbecue shrimp & grits
Biscuits with sausage or mushroom gravy
Tofu breakfast platter (vegan)
»Sausage breakfasts, with choice of maple-cured sausage, chorizo, boudin patties, with biscuits
»Banana pancake, organic maple syrup
Fresh fruit plate
House made granola, with milk and fresh fruit
Old-fashioned oatmeal
~
Specialty breakfasts
»Migas (eggs hard-scrambled with chorizo, onions, tomatoes, poblano, cheese, corn tortilla chips, pico de gallo, tortillas
Costa Rican breakfast (eggs, over white or brown rice, cheddar, pico de gallo, fried plantains, avocado)
»Huevos rancheros (tortillas, black beans, eggs, cheddar, molé, pico de gallo
»Huevos rancheros deluxe (with cured salmon, goat cheese, capers)
»Corned beef hash, boudin, andouille, hash browns, eggs
Breakfast burrito (tomato-basil tortilla, bacon, onion, tomato, poblano peppers, cheddar, eggs, tomato salsa, sour cream)
Breakfast sandwich (eggs, cheddar, breakfast meat, on biscuit or toast)
»Pain perdu (New Orleans lost bread, made traditionally or with soy milk for a vegan version)
»Bananas Foster french toast
~
Sides
»Organic yard eggs
Avocado
Vegan avocado mash
Brown or white rice
Black beans
Cheddar, swiss or meunster cheese
»Balsamic roasted veggies
Pico de gallo
Sour cream
Yogurt
Tortillas
Toasted multi-grain, rye, sourdough, white, or bagel
FOR BEST RESULTS
Go for breakfast during the week. It’s tremendously crowded on Saturday and Sunday. Avoid the tofu dishes, unless you eat that sort of thing all the time.
OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT
The service staff has a touch of attitude. The cash-only policy is a ridiculous inconvenience, adding a hidden charge (if you use the ATM) that most restaurants absorb.
FACTORS OTHER THAN FOOD
Up to three points, positive or negative, for these characteristics. Absence of points denotes average performance in the matter.
Dining Environment -1
Consistency +1
Service
Value +1
Attitude -1
Wine & Bar
Hipness +2
Local Color +1
SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES
Sidewalk tables
Quick, good meal
Good for children
Easy, nearby parking
Shrimp And Red Bean Salad With Arugula
This was a fantastic appetizer created by Annie Roberts, who was at the time I had the dish the chef of Robert Mondavi Winery. It was served at a picnic on Mondavi’s then-newly-planted Carneros vineyards, in the early 1990s. I like it so much that we make it often when the great Louisiana shrimp appear. Pretty good with big crawfish tails, too.
1 Tbs. olive oil
Zest of 1 lemon, chopped
1 shallot, sliced
1 Tbs. chopped Italian parsley
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1/2 serrano chile, seeded and minced
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. fresh ground pepper
1 lb. (16-20 count) large shrimp, shelled and deveined, tails on
1 Tbs. olive oil
1 small yellow onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 small fennel bulb, cored and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 carrot, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 1/2 tsp. finely chopped thyme
1/2 tsp. minced garlic
2 cups red beans, soaked overnight and drained
1 bay leaf
Vinaigrette:
2 Tbs. balsamic vinegar
1 Tbs. sherry vinegar
1/2 tsp. lemon zest
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/4 tsp. fresh ground pepper
1 shallot, minced
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
~
Aioli:
1 small roasted red pepper, peeled and seeded
1 small egg
1 1/2 tsp. lemon juice
1/2 tsp. minced garlic
1 cup olive oil
1 basket mixed cherry tomatoes, halved
2 cup loosely packed arugula
1. Combine the olive oil, shallot, parsley, thyme, zest, chile, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Add the shrimp and toss to mix well. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least four hours.
2. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion, fennel, carrot, thyme and garlic. Cook until the onion becomes soft.
3. Add five cups of water, the beans and the bay leaf. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the beans are tender, about two hours. Let sit until the beans absorb the remaining liquid and are cool. Remove the bay leaf.
4. For the vinaigrette, whisk together the balsamic vinegar, sherry vinegar, zest, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Add the shallot. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Set aside.
5. For the aioli, place the egg in the bowl of a food processor and blend until light and fluffy. Add the red bell pepper, lemon juice and garlic and puree. Gradually add the oil until completely blended, with the motor running. Add the salt and pepper and pulse to combine. Set aside.
6. Just before serving, heat a nonstick skillet over high heat. Add the shrimp and cook until browned, about five minutes, turning once. Let cool.
7. Transfer the beans to a large bowl. Add the shrimp, tomatoes, arugula, and vinaigrette. Toss to mix well. Top each serving with a dollop of the aioli.
Serves eight.
Pad Prik King @ Thailicious
This is an exceptionally good, thick-soupy stir-fry of meat (pork is the classic, but you can have it with chicken, beef, etc.) with green beans, bell pepper, carrots, cucumbers, and red curry. It sounds like many other Thai dishes, but has a unique flavor I think comes from ginger. There’s also a little muskiness (I know that’s an unappealing word, but it’s the one that fits) that I find alluring. Pad (or paht) prik king (or khing) is on many Thai menus, but this version sets the standard. The restaurant is spartan, but Chef Cathy cooks at the highest levels of Thai flavors.
Pad prik king at Thailicious in Slidell.
Thailicious. Slidell: 2165 Gause Blvd W. 985-649-8900.
This dish is ranked #200 in NOMenu’s list of the 500 best dishes in New Orleans restaurants.
June 2, 2014
Days Until. . .
Eat Club Dinner @ Tujague’s 9
Father’s Day 13
Today’s Flavor
Today is Bean Salad Day. Here in New Orleans, the tradition of eating a steaming plate of red beans and rice wanes a little–even on Mondays–when the heat of summer settles in. (As it has.) Its summer replacement is served cool or cold, marinated in the usual salad dressings. And they’re good that way, even with rice. The beans have to be undercooked a little and allowed to stand with the olive oil, vinegar, lemon juice and herbs for at least a few hours. Beans are healthful in many ways, and adding them to a salad obviates the need for the grilled chicken or fried shrimp on top for protein. A red beans and rice salad garnished with herbs and baby lettuces, and perhaps even thin slices of a dense, smoky, spicy sausage hits the spot.
The Old Kitchen Sage Sez:
The best beans for making salads are fresh beans. But fresh beans are only around when they want to be, not when you want them to be.
Edible Dictionary
navy bean, n.–A medium-size, off-white bean, closely related to other white beans like the Great Northern, but smaller. They went by a variety of other names, and were particularly popular in New England. Navy beans are the variety used for Boston baked beans and canned pork and beans. They got the name because the U.S. Navy specified it for its ships’ galleys in the early 1900s. Here in New Orleans, navy beans are more often called just white beans, and served as an alternative to red beans. White beans and shrimp are a distinctive and popular dish, particularly in Cajun country.
Gourmet Gazetteer
Bean Settlement is a country crossroads in the eastern panhandle of West Virginia, 118 miles west of Washington, DC. It’s in a mix of farm fields and woods, in a pocket of gently rolling hills in the midst of some serious Appalachian folds. It’s a good area for hunting and fishing. The little community includes the historic Asbury Church. (The town was once named Asbury, among other things.) It’s been settled since the mid-1700s. The nearest restaurant is eight miles away, on the other side of the hills, in Moorefield. It’s called the Stray Cat Cafe.
Music To Eat Beans By
The Paul Biese Trio recorded the jazz number Chili Bean today in 1920, in New York City.
Eating Around The World
Today is the national holiday of Italy. On this date in 1946, a national referendum decided that the wreck of the Fascist state should be rebuilt as a republic, not a monarchy. (The king voted the other way.) Governmental chaos has continued ever since, but Italy functions reasonably well, in its own way, with a lot of the business world flying below the government’s radar. It’s the world’s best eating country, if you ask us. It’s all about taste. Very little about mind games.
The Physiology Of Eating
Max Rubner, a physiologist, was born today in 1854. His discovery was that the energy potential of food was the same whether an organism ate it or whether it was just set on fire. Same number of calories released. He did not determine how heartburn works into the equation.
Tirophilia Today
On this date in 1928, the Kraft Cheese Company (that was its name then) rolled Velveeta out to a waiting world. What is Velveeta, anyway? The Kraft web site is silent on the matter. The package says it’s “pasteurized prepared cheese product.” Which is. . . what? Apparently the invention was not so much the cheese as the package: a foil-wrapped oblong of soft, rubbery, day-glo yellow cheese inside (originally) a wooden box (now it’s cardboard). Before that there were cheese spreads, but sold in cans. Canned cheese. Now there’s something that reminds us that those were not the good old days.
Food And The Law
Today in 2003, the Department of Agriculture said that, for dietary purposes, batter-coated frozen French fries were to be considered fresh vegetables. Once again, dietary considerations diverge widely from those involving taste. Fries made from freshly-cut potatoes are clearly more enjoyable to eat–although so many people have only eaten frozen that they sometimes reject fresh ones the first time they taste them.
Annals Of Teetotaling
Maine became the first state in America to ban alcoholic beverages, on this day in 1851.
Music To Rot Your Teeth By
And your brain, too. Today in 1972, Sammy Davis Jr. had a number one hit with [Wait! Before I tell you, don't let the song start playing your head, lest it stay for days!] The Candy Man. To his credit, Sammy didn’t like the song and didn’t put much into it.
Food Namesakes
Lydia Lunch, a writer and experimental performer in many media, was born today in 1959. . . Tim Rice-Oxley, keyboard player for British rock group Keane, was born today in 1976. . . Today in 1910, Charles Rolls became the first person to fly a double crossing of the English Channel. He co-founded Rolls-Royce.
The Saints
This is the feast day of St. Erasmus, also known as St. Elmo. He lived in the third century. St. Elmo’s fire–the discharge of static from your body–is named for him. He is a source of intercession if you’re troubled with abdominal or stomach pains, or colic.
Words To Eat By
“I’m a McDonald’s girl; several times a week. Usually the two-cheeseburger combo meal.”–Nikki Cox, actress, born today in 1978.
Words To Drink By
“An alcoholic has been lightly defined as a man who drinks more than his own doctor.”–Dr. Alvan L. Barach.
Some People Ask For Extra Gluten.
Either way, it drives the kitchen a little nuts.
Click here for the cartoon.