First up - what is
mineral makeup? Mineral makeup traditionally refers to foundations, eye
shadows, blushes and bronzers comprised of crushed minerals taken from the
Earth and used in loose, dry, powder form.
In recent
years, the range of mineral makeup products has expanded to include pressed
powder makeup, cream and liquid foundations, along with lipsticks and mascaras.
These formulas may include things like oils, butters and waxes and, unlike the
loose powders mentioned above, they require some type of preservative.
Although
the popularity of mineral makeup has risen dramatically in recent years - with a
multitude of brands flooding the market - it is important to remember one thing:
not all mineral makeup is made the same. Not it isn't! When it comes to
loose mineral powder foundation, for example, true mineral makeup need only include a few key ingredients.
What are the basic ingredients
loose powder mineral makeup?
Titanium
Dioxide - an
inorganic compound used in a range of body care products, including makeup. It
provides excellent coverage & helps the make-up adhere to your skin. It
also offers sun protection as it reflects the Sun’s rays.
Zinc
Oxide - an
inorganic oxide used as a colourant and sunscreen agent. It is known to calm
irritated skin & can therefore assist with skin conditions such as rosacea.
It also provides good coverage & offers sun protection.
Mica (Serecite) - a type of highly brittle silicate mineral which, when
crushed into tiny particles, refracts light. It is typically used as a
colourant. It reduces the appearance of enlarged pores and fine lines.
Iron Oxides - inorganic oxides used to produce beautiful earthy colours.
Iron oxides must be purified to a certain quality and grade before they are
used in cosmetics.
Tin Oxides - inorganic oxides that are naturally found in mineral form.
They are used as colourants.
Ultramarines - mineral-derived blue pigments used to cool down the
colour of foundations.
That’s
pretty much all you need. Some brands may also include Kaolin Clay which offers
high absorption, great adhesion and a creamy texture. It is often used to
reduce shine on the skin and is popular amongst people with oily skin, although
those with dry skin may find it a little too drying.
Which ‘not-so-nice’ ingredients should
you look out for?
Many
popular mineral makeup brands found on supermarket and pharmacy shelves contain
additional ingredients to those listed above, particularly pressed, liquid and
cream formulations. While some of these ingredients may merely be considered
cheap but otherwise harmless fillers, other ingredients may not be quite so
innocuous. Here’s just a few
ingredients to be wary of:
Bismuth
Oxychloride - a
naturally occurring mineral. However, as it is quite rare, in order to create
the large quantities needed by manufacturers, it is also produced as a
by-product from refining lead, tin, copper, silver and gold ores, after which
it goes through a long refining process. It is listed as a colouring agent and can
come in either a pearl or diamond finish and is used in cosmetics to create a
shimmery look, give a silky feel and also to help the minerals adhere to the
skin – that’s why it’s so popular. However, many people, particularly those
with sensitive skin, acne or rosacea, find this heavy ingredient very
irritating – probably because its crystalline structure means that the crystals
can ‘poke’ at your skin and also clog your pores.
Parabens - preservatives used by the
food, pharmaceutical and personal care industry. Common parabens include
Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben and Ethylparaben. Parabens have been
found to mimic oestrogen and so can act as potential hormone (endocrine) system
disruptors. There have been concerns about a possible link to breast cancer.
Traditional loose powder mineral makeup should not require preservatives.
Silicones like Dimethicone – these are included to give the makeup a silky feel
but are often responsible for clogging the pores and ‘suffocating’ the skin,
leading to redness and breakouts.
FD & C Dyes – these colourants have been shown
in studies to have a neuro-toxic effect on the brain.
Phthalates - a phthalate is a salt or ester
of phthalic acid and is a chemical plasticiser used to soften plastics and make
them flexible so they’re not so brittle. It’s almost impossible to avoid
phthalates in our modern world. Phthalates can be found in a vast array of
products around the home: toys, electronics, insecticides, flooring, furniture,
plastic containers - and the list goes on. And evidence shows that they can
continuously leach out of products into the air, food or liquid. As binding
agents, phthalates are often used in cosmetics to stabilise the fragrance and
enhance absorption. So what’s the harm? You’d be hard-pressed to find a major
health concern that has not been associated with phthalates – breast cancer,
obesity & type II diabetes, neurodevelopmental issues, low IQ, behavioural
issues, autism spectrum disorders, altered reproductive development and male
fertility issues. Phthalates are not required to be listed on the packaging of
products.
Talc - a powdered native, hydrous
magnesium silicate sometimes containing a small portion of aluminium silicate. Many
cosmetics, including foundation and other powders, use talc in their
formulations. There has been much debate about talc recently with concerns that
some talc can be contaminated with asbestos-like fibres, posing risks for respiratory
toxicity and cancer. According to the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, talc should
be avoided in powders and other personal care products, unless it is known to
be asbestos-free.1
Nanoparticles – these are particles sized
between 1 & 100 nanometers. (A nanometre is equal to one-billionth of a
metre.) Nanoparticles are most commonly used in titanium dioxide and zinc oxide
found in sunscreens but some makeup brands have also been found to use
nanoparticle sized titanium dioxide or zinc oxide in their makeup products.
There is concern that nano-sized particles may pose a serious health risk if
inhaled or absorbed into the body.
So, when
it comes to mineral makeup, as with other cosmetics and personal care
products, the important thing is to check the labels. Once you've learnt which ingredients are best avoided, it's easy to scrutinise and compare
those pesky ingredients lists.
1 As for the safety of talc in
personal care products in general, there have been a few high–profile court
cases in the US in 2016. These specifically relate to the use of talc in women's hygiene – but that’s a topic for another day.