Iceland Highlands 2013
Blog by Phil Freeman
Day 1:
Wow, first a geysir, then a waterfall and then the moon. The landscape is incredible off the beaten track of Iceland. Prepare yourself for some sand, some water crossings and the feeling of awe.
Day 2:
The day started off challenging from the start. We knew that the highlands would be rough, but we had no idea....
First off, we needed to retrieve the motorcycle with the flat tire left down the road a few miles.Then, the gasoline pump at the remote hotel we stayed at would not work - something to do with no internet connection....a problem that could take up to 5 hours to fix. So, instead of waiting, we opted to travel down the road 50 K to another gas station in the opposite direction to gas up and then return past our original location towards the highlands. By 11 AM, we were finally on dirt roads, heading for the interior. Gradually, the road went from dirt to rocks then a little sand, and then mostly back to rocks. It was one of the roughest roads we had traveled and it stretched on to the infinite distance. On the horizon, spectacular creeped up on us as the foot of glaciers spilled out, distant snow capped mountains crept by and the lunar landscape seemed to engulf us whole.
As the road was full of large rocks, you had to keep a watchful eye on it, so you did not have the luxury to take in all the scenery as you went. If you did..."BAM!" a rock would challenge the suspension and tires. Standing of the pegs, with velocity up, and watchful eye, we motored on. Around lunch, the problems started.
The first casualty was the front rim of the Triumph Tiger: split and useless. It has hit a rock hard and the cast metal could not take the punch. It sat split and unusable. We did not have a spare front tire, so we loaded it in the van, and I gave up my bike so that the rider could continue.
After lunch, the second stream crossing swallowed up one of the bikes and the totally submerged BMW refused to start after we fished it out of the river. So, we spent the better part of 2 hours in the open, chilled wind taking out the spark plug, draining the water out of the cylinder and getting it back together.
As we were doing this, one of the riders arrived to announce that another rider, while crossing a river ahead of us, was swept downstream and the bike and the rider were stranded on the other side!!
So, the Iclelanders made a plan to get some park guards with their beefed up 4x4 and trailer to give us a hand, and rescue the rider. The original submerged bike was put back together and was running, the chill wind was chilling, and we were half way back to getting on the road. We followed the Rescue 4x4 to the next river, and they loaded his bike into their trailer and we rendezvoused back at the crossroads where we had set up a temporary bike shop. The rivers at this time of the day we rising at an alarming rate. These glacial rivers are on the move, and the later in the day, the more difficult it is to cross them. Unfortunately, considering our late start, we just could not, as a group make it past this river. The rider was ok, but when you put the key in the ignition, the horn went off. Indeed, after 30 minutes of being submerged, it was toast.
We watched some locals cross the same river from the other side, and they walked the river first, then used the current to their advantage by going downstream as they crossed. Even so, they were on the brink of losing it when they crossed.
So, now two bikes in the support van, gear up to our ears, and three in the truck. We had to change our plans at this point, and find another place to stay, as the rivers would not allow us to continue. We chose a route that avoided the rivers and this late in the day, we started off.
20 K down the road and another front tire went as a casualty. This time another Triumph front tire, split at the rim. I had warned the riders to take it easy, but.....
We tried to take off the tire, but as we found out later, that precise tool was taken out of the tool kit and was back in Reykjavik! So we left the bike in the middle of a vast desert and continued on into the night to our lodge.
We finally arrived at our rented farm house by midnight after a crazy day of motorcycle triage.
As we arrived we went about preparing a meal of BBQed beef, boiled potatoes, and cole slaw. Beer started to flow and laughter started to rise and by 2 in the morning everyone was either in bed or singing happy. This farm house turned out to be the saving factor of the tiring day, as everyone could relax and socialize in the spacious rooms, or just step out to enjoy open country side. Peaceful is a great way to put that place.
Day 3:
As a bike was down and a full 2 hours away, our Icelandic team procured the right tool from a nearby farmer and raced off to bring it back. As Murphy's law would have it, they forgot to get the key to that bike, so when they got there, they were forced to load a 3rd bike into the van. They gingerly returned on the rocky road and the group waited patiently until they were back. At 1:30 PM, the van arrived with two tired Icelanders, three bikes and some work to do. The entire group went to work: putting gas in bikes, changing tires, loading and unloading what was necessary from the van...it was something to look over 13 people working in unison without any one of us directing. We all knew what we had to do.
Fortunately, we had short day ahead of us, and it could not have been planned out better. The gravel road north turned to pavement, and we had already successfully crossed the highlands of Iceland the first time. We arrived at a gas station next to Godafoss - a beautiful waterfall.
Gassed up, we took off down the road. At that moment, another Biking Viking van arrived with two spare bikes for us. They were to take the two inoperable bikes off our hands and give us ones that would put us back on the road. What a service, as we were all the way across the other side of the island!!
And, as we made our way down the highway, one more flat tire happened! Even on the tarmac, flat tires were getting us!
The group went on as we waited for the truck to come save us. We arrived at our hotel and repaired the bikes, as the rest of the group went on to Dettifoss waterfall, the grand daddy of them all. When they arrived back to the hotel, they were all smiles and that waterfall can have that effect on people.
Day 4:
This was to be the easiest day of the trip, as we had to take mostly paved routes across the top of Iceland west so we could set up for another run at throughout the Highlands the next day. We tried to pick as many dirt surfaced roads as possible along the way.
We left the lakeside town of Reykjahlíð and our comfy hotel and sped west. First, we sped through a lava garden, then past some old volcanic cones and then by a breathtaking waterfall. Typical Iceland: amazing geology around each bend.
We stopped in the University city of Akureyri to do some shopping. We would be entering the highlands again, and would not have any restaurant...so we had to pack a lunch for the day, and have something for us to prepare and eat for the night. Lamb loin, potatoes and salad were decided on and we loaded the truck and we were off. We left town to the north and entered a tunnel like no other: one way with pull outs for our side every 200 meters so we could let oncoming cars pass...this was both exciting and a little scary!
We took a short gravel pass road in to the mountains. The scenery was stunning, snow, sheep, steep mountains and unadulterated rivers charmed us as we sped by. Back on the coast and mountains to the see, and large, jutting rocks bursting out of the ocean.
Rain came as went as we finally pulled into our farm stay, right on a world class Atlantic Salmon stream. That night, we were served lamb, cabbage salad, potatoes with an extremely yummy cream-based sauce, and chocolate cake with a butterscotch syrup. Wine and beer flowed as the canadians told bigger and bigger tales. Gradually all of us drifted to sleep, but not after some of the worlds problems were either solved or created.
Day 5:
The rain came on steady as we rode a loop along the coast. We visited an old fort, ate lunch out of the rain and prepared for another campaign into the Highlands. After the rain shower everyone learned whether or not their gear was up for the task. Most were wet all the way to the boots. The real key to motorcycle touring is to stay dry, and after trying all sorts of gear, I found that you need a rain suit that covers you from head to toe. I have been using a set made by Olympia Moto Sports and it has kept me 100% dry, even in the most heaviest of downpours. Boots and gloves are also key, and if you don't have waterproof boots, waterproof socks are a good alternative. After 15 years of adventure touring, I finally broke down to using a rain suit, and I have never regretted it!!
The second part of the day was fantastic. The clouds cleared, and we took some back roads towards the highlands. Clear water streams, farms poca-dotted with white, plastic-wrapped hay bails, and Icelandic horses lined the way.
The farms melted away and we climbed to a lava plateau that stretched out before us. The road turned to gravel. Far in the distance, a glacier oozed its way out of the clouds. No traffic, nobody: we were back in the highlands. The riding was fun on the gravel. Not having much traffic and the open spaces made it peaceful.
We pulled into our accommodations for the night, it was something out of adventure travel show. Steaming vents hissed as we checked into our room. Yes room! We were a party of 13, and they had a small house for us to stay in - all of us with just a bunks, a simple kitchen, and 5 to 8 european backpackers staying upstairs! The bathrooms were all the way across the parking lot and there were a garden of tents growing in the distance.
I could not believe that we would be putting the entire group (some of which had paid for single occupancy) into just one room!!
Indeed, this was a scouting trip, so I had told the group that not all would go as planned, and their expectations needed to be low. By this time in the trip, to my surprise, they were happy with this arrangement.
On the deck, there was a brood barbecue, and we had brought all the food we would need for the evening: marinated lamb loin and steaks, potatoes (to be cooked with feta cheese, garlic, onion, and hot peppers, and several types of salad. Yes, we would survive. The most amazing part of this whole place was the thermal hot spring that was right beside the house! As we arrived, several people speaking different languages lounged around in the outdoor rock-made pool. Two pipes delivered the goods: one was hot water, the other was cold. Quickly, the group got into action: they grabbed their towels, some grabbed beers and they were in the pool lounging.
Smiles, laughter and thermal steam...what a combination! All the while, the thermal vents next door threw their clouds of geologic heat into the air and it drifted past us. Off into the distance, you could see the foot of the glacier. Indeed, this was a very special place.
Later that evening, the barbecue was on, the potatoes were cooking and the steaks were grilled....a great ending to a world-class day of adventure.
Day 6:
This was our last day of the ride and it seemed to be over so quick! Fog and drizzle clung to the ground as we headed out. Seeing was a challenge as we zig-zagged our way over the moonscape. After a short while, it lifted and large glaciers appeared on both sides of us in the distance. This landscape never stops to fascinate: large slabs of crusted lava, vast lunar plains of sand and rock, enormous glaciers reaching out to us from the sky...Not a patch of green in sight. The gravel road was littered with large rocks and mud puddles.
After over an hour, the gravel road descended into a green valley and turned to pavement.
We stopped for gas and lunch at the Geysir, the sun heated us up and we headed out for one last adventure. Toggi, our Icelandic Guide, picked out one of his favorites. We spent an hour riding along a power line across the moon with glaciers peering at us.
A couple of water crossing and sand traps later, we were all smiles as we made it back to pavement for the last time.
As we entered Reykjavik, it seemed so strange to see so many cars and building. We had gone to the very center of the highlands where no man lives and now we were going through the reverse shock of being back in civilization.
We checked in the bikes, the hotel and met for dinner that evening. We sat at a fish restaurant overlooking the harbor and enjoyed a fantastic meal as the riders recanted the adventure they had just shared.
Perhaps never again this same group would be together at the same table. They came from all walks of life but shared one thing: a love for the sense of adventure. We had gone to highlands and had survived unscathed. We now would part to the four winds and all there was left to do is look back with a smile and look forward to the next adventure! What next?