I have had a number of requests for organic wines of late, and the timing couldn’t be better, as I recently attended a tasting of 30 organic wines available at the SAQ. This is a drop in the bucket in terms of what is available. A quick check on SAQ.com reveals that there are more than 400 wines, ciders and other products that are classified as organic. When you include wineries that aren’t certified, the number easily doubles or triples.
Organic wine consumption worldwide is growing faster than wine consumption as a whole. According to the SAQ, sales rose from $29.4 million to $34.7 million between 2014 and 2015. So while wine sales have essentially flattened out, organic wine sales rose 18 per cent.
This has led to more vineyards being converted from conventional to organic, or biodynamic, growing methods. According to the Research Institute of Organic Agriculture, Spain is No. 1 in organic vineyards, followed by France and Italy. These are not just small-time growers that are converting: large-scale and renowned wineries like Torres and Alvaro Palacios in Spain, and Chapoutier and Cazes in France, have either converted all, or are in the process of converting, their vineyards to organics.
I have been a proponent of organic wines since the 1990s. To me, it just makes sense. From an environmental perspective, chemical-based viticulture — and agriculture, for that matter — left soils barren, and there is increasing evidence that it made vineyard workers sick with certain illnesses being linked to pesticide and fungicide spraying.
While protecting the environment and worker safety should be more of a priority for consumers when purchasing any type of product, on a qualitative level, it just makes sense to me that growing fruit and vegetables from healthy soils will result in better produce.
The vast majority of wines I drink are grown organically, and with minimal additives in the winemaking. This is not to say organic wine isn’t without perils. Organic viticulture is more labour-intensive, thus more costly. Certain regions, especially those with cooler temperatures and lots of humidity, are in constant threat of fungal attacks. Infestations of insects like leaf hoppers that spread such lethal vine diseases as Flavescence dorée continue to threaten vineyards all over the world.
How growers deal with these issues is their choice. I am not dogmatic about my desire for organics, especially when growers are facing vintage-threatening attacks. But part of the foundation of organic and, even more so, biodynamic agriculture is that healthy vines and proper biodiversity in the vineyard will allow vines to defend better against such attacks.
So for those who have inquired about organics, here is a mini guide to some quality organic wines. But first, I’ll answer the two most common questions about organics.
Do organic wines contain sulphites?
Yes, they do. While it does impose lower limits on the amount of sulphites and other additives that can be added to a wine, organic certification is primarily concerned with grape growing, not vinification. All wines do contain some sulphites, as it is a natural product of vinification.
How are organics and biodynamics different?
Biodynamics is an approach to grape growing that views the health of the vine in a more unified ecological way. Those who practise it believe that the health of the vine is dependent on a number of “life forces” — the soil, the vine, the people who work in the vineyard, and all the other plants and animals that are a part of the ecosystem. Biodynamics is concerned with the subtle manipulation of these life forces, or energies, and aims to work in harmony with the rhythms of nature.
It’s often lumped together with organic farming, but there are some important differences. While both rely on organic materials for enriching the soil and do not use synthetic pesticides, fertilizers and herbicides, biodynamics embraces a much more holistic perspective.
On a practical level, biodynamic farmers use homeopathic doses of dried and ground-up plants, rocks and manure when treating their plants and the soil. There are also astrological influences. Many biodynamic farmers will work their fields, pick their grapes and bottle their wine following a calendar that is loosely based on the position of the moon, the stars and the constellations.
Rosés
Gard, Sable de Camargue 2015, Le Pive Gris, Maison JeanJean, France rosé, $16.45, SAQ # 11372766. Organic. More fruit than previous vintages, as well as a sexy floral component. You can sense the ripeness of the vintage, but also the same finesse and freshness that have made the Pive a stalwart in the annual rosé offer. Residual sugar: 1.5 g/L. Serve at: 10 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, spring rolls, tomato and goat cheese salad.
Coteaux Varois en Provence 2015, Château La Lieue, France rosé, $17.30, SAQ # 11687021. Organic. Like previous vintages, a model of finesse and nuance, with floral notes and stone fruits. Acidity is perfect. More floral and fruity than the excellent 2014. Residual sugar: 1.3 g/L. Serve at: 10 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, shrimp brochettes, grilled salmon.
Côtes de Provence 2015, Pétale de Rose, Régine Sumeire, France rosé, $21.65, SAQ # 425496. Organic. While staying true to its barely pink colour, the 2015 Pétale shows a richer texture and more powerful fruit and floral aromatics than recent vintages. I love it. Enjoy this not only on its own, but with most lighter fare. Residual sugar: 2 g/L. Serve at: 10-14 C. Drink now-2017. Food pairing idea: apéritif, cold lobster and seafood.
White/sparkling wines
Cava, Brut, Parés Baltà, Spain sparkling, $17.95, SAQ # 10896365. Organic. Like biting into a fresh apple, but there is much more here. Very floral, dried pungent flowers with notes of almond. Residual sugar: 4.9 g/L. Serve at: 8 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, smoked fish.
Vin de Pays d’Oc 2014, Le Canon du Maréchal, Domaine Cazes, France white, $17, SAQ # 10894811. Biodynamic. Superb muscat-based wine that drinks very Alsatian. Richly textured without being heavy. Subtle notes of melon and a precise mineral finish. Excellent and unique. Residual sugar: 1.6 g/L. Serve at: 10 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: Thai curry with coconut milk.
Touraine Mesland 2014, Clos de la Briderie, France white, $17.90, SAQ # 861575. Organic. Shows more typical chenin notes of quince and apricot, mixed with a chardonnay-driven texture. A hint of spice and a vibrant acidity on the finish keep it interesting and fresh. Residual sugar: 1.3 g/L. Serve at: 10 C. Drink now-2018. Food pairing idea: apéritif, smoked salmon.
Alsace 2012, Trilogie, Domaine Barmès Buecher, France white, $21.55, SAQ # 12254420. Organic. A blend of pinot blanc, riesling and pinot gris. A touch drier and more reserved than the 2011, but the same notes of pear with lemony accents. More floral as well. I find it more elegant and finessed. Residual sugar: 3.9 g/L. Serve at: 8-10 C. Drink now-2017. Food pairing idea: apéritif, spicy shrimp and Asian cuisine.
Red wines
Pinot Noir 2015, Organico, Rapel Valley, Cono Sur, Chile red, $16.75, SAQ # 11386877. Biodynamic. Has almost a syrah feel, so as a pinot noir it might disappoint the purists. That being said, for a lighter, less tannic wine, and at this price, very well done. Residual sugar: 3.1 g/L. Serve at: 15 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, grilled salmon.
Molise 2012, Aglianico, Di Majo Norante, Italy red, $19.05, SAQ # 12476591. Organic. One of my favourite grapes in Italy. Such rich fruit, ripe and grippy tannins, minerality on the finish. All is there, and at a very reasonable price. Residual sugar: 5.2 g/L. Serve at: 18 C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: stronger-flavoured meats like lamb and duck, grilled red meats.
Faugères 2013, Château des Estanilles, France red, $19.20, SAQ # 10272755. Organic. So garrigue. You can smell the thyme and rosemary bushes drying in the heat. Powerful and upfront attack, with layers of tannin on the finish. Syrah, mourvèdre, grenache and carignan. Residual sugar: 2.4 g/L. Serve at: 18 C. Drink now-2021. Food pairing idea: stronger-flavoured meats like lamb and duck, grilled red meats.
Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Mendocino County, Bonterra, California red, $20, SAQ # 342428. Organic. Solid cab that shows dark berries and a rich texture, but with just a touch of oak, which adds spice and some tannin. Balanced acids keep it fresh. Well done. Residual sugar: 3.1 g/L. Serve at: 18 C. Drink now-2018. Food pairing idea: stronger-flavoured meats like lamb and duck, grilled red meats.
Toscana Igt 2010, Sangervasio Rosso, Sangervasio, Italy red, $20.60, SAQ # 11201537. Organic. Very classic earthy sangiovese. Aromas of tanned leather mixed with Luxardo cherry. Add to that the satiny merlot texture and those round but firm cabernet sauvignon tannins, and you have a full-bodied and very flavourful red. As easily drinkable as it is interesting. One of those “please-all” wines that you want to be serving at a party. Residual sugar: n/a. Serve at: 16-18 C. Drink now-2018. Food pairing idea: veal Parmesan.
Bordeaux 2010, Château des Seigneurs de Pommyers, France red, $23.35, SAQ # 892695. Quite dark-fruited. For a six-year-old wine at this price, holding up remarkably well. Tannins still bite, but shows the great underlying acidity and freshness of the 2010 vintage. Power and finesse, and for a great price. Residual sugar: 3.1 g/L. Serve at: 18 C. Drink now-2018. Food pairing idea: pork roasts with dark fruit sauce, beet soup.
Chinon 2014, Beaumont, Domaine Catherine et Pierre Breton, France red, $23.95, SAQ # 12517921. Biodynamic. Such a beautiful expression of cabernet franc. Dark raspberries and subtle green pepper notes. The tannins are ripe, but stick to your tongue. This wine has both acidity and a rich texture. So interesting, always. Residual sugar: 1.4 g/L. Serve at: 18 C. Drink now-2020. Food pairing idea: chicken cacciatore, minute steaks with green peppers and onions.
Crozes-Hermitage 2014, Les Meysonniers, M. Chapoutier, France red, $28.50, SAQ # 10259876. Biodynamic. My style of Crozes. While the fruit is a touch dark, the tannins are beautifully layered and thin. Such regal structure mixed with rich blackberry fruit. Residual sugar: 1.2 g/L. Serve at: 18 C. Drink now-2020. Food pairing idea: white meat roasts, stronger fowl like pigeon.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2012, Domaine de Beaurenard, France red, $47.75, SAQ # 11692612. Biodynamic. Beautiful Châteauneuf, and at a very fair price. The florals are there, as well as a pure black cherry note. Tannins are grippy, but ripe and very forgiving. But this is about grenache — such purity, silkiness and minerality. Needs a few more years to show more, but drinking very well at the moment. Residual sugar: 2.1 g/L. Serve at: 18 C. Drink now-2027. Food pairing idea: braised meats.
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Wines of the Week: April 2, 2016