Terroir and choice of grape make every wine region unique. Beaujolais is no exception. The grape variety is gamay, the perfect choice for the predominately granitic soils of the northern part of the region. However, one other factor helps mark its identity: how the wine is made.
Most red wine is made by crushing the grapes and allowing the juice to macerate (soak) in the skin and seeds as it ferments. The goal is to allow the grapes to pick up as much colour and tannin as possible.
But the bulk of wine made in Beaujolais is vinified via “semi-carbonic maceration.” For this process, whole bunches of grapes are put in closed fermenters. The weight of all the grapes crushes some of the bunches at the bottom of the tank, whose juice will start to ferment like other reds. One of the byproducts of fermentation is carbon dioxide, which rises through the tank. This stimulates fermentation within each grape. Eventually, the grapes burst and the juice ferments as a normal wine would, but the juice is often removed from the skins rather quickly.
Light and fruity
Thus, Beaujolais wines tend to be lighter in colour and have less tannin than most other red wines. But this type of winemaking also tends to produce wines of much more vibrant fruit and, at times, subtle aromas of banana. While some winemakers, like Jean-Paul Brun, use the more conventional style of vinification, most Beaujolais is carbonic. Beaujolais is the poster wine for light and fruity.
The other factor in the Beaujolais fruit-driven wine style, and what helps explain the difference between different Crus, is a basic understanding of the soil. I mentioned in last week’s column the gamay grape was driven out of much of Burgundy in the 14th century, and that it might have been a wise decision. The region was too cold and the soils were too rich.
Gamay, when grown in richer soils, especially with lots of clay, tend to produce lots of grape bunches. Combined with the cooler temperatures, they didn’t ripen enough. But farther south in the warmer Beaujolais region, the grape found a home in the hillsides that are now the 10 “Crus” of Beaujolais.
Many of these names are familiar to us Quebecers. Brouilly is no doubt the best known, thanks to the bowling-pin-shaped bottle of Georges Duboeuf. There is also Fleurie, Morgon, Saint-Amour, Côte de Brouilly, Julienas, Chiroubles, Chenas, Moulin-à-Vent and Régnié. What they have in common, aside from Julienas, is that the soil is predominately granite.
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From the archives: Beaujolais Crus are serious wines
A quick study of these Crus shows how important the soil is in shaping the final wine. Granite is not a common soil in the wine world. My last encounter with it was in Alsace, where I was tasting through the region’s pinot gris.
What I found was once I knew the characteristics of granite-grown grapes, the wines stood out like a neon rainbow. Granite has a tendency to produce wines of bright, almost sweet, fruitiness. The wines have much less body as well. I have used a ballerina comparison at times: delicate and nimble. Unlike wines grown in limestone and clay, which require years to come together, you can drink these wines young.
Unique character
The same argument goes for the Crus of Beaujolais. In the northern part of region, the hillsides were formed by an underground dome of magma, essentially a volcano that never erupted, which turned into granite. This granite comes in various colours ranging from blue, and grey to pink, depending on the minerals trapped in the rock. Over time, depending on their altitude and slope, and the type of granite, each of these hillsides degraded in different ways.
Some formed clay deposits, while others became sand and pebbles. The result is each of these Crus has a unique character. Those with the highest percentage of granite and less clay are the ballerinas: delicate, floral and fruity, and not meant for long-term aging.
The Crus with a higher clay component tend to produce sturdier wines, with more tannin and body, and can age for much longer. This is the key, and why I love this region so much. Aged Beaujolais Cru tends to “pinotte,” or acquire more pinot noir characteristics after five to eight years. Considering the price one has to pay for decent pinot noir these days, these Crus are a bargain, as well as being delicious.
Here’s a quick rundown of how I see the Crus and when they start drinking their best.
Chiroubles, Régnié, Brouilly, Fleurie
Lighter wines, for immediate drinking or short-term cellaring (2-4 years)
These are predominately very poor, granite and sandy soils. The result is wines with more floral notes (especially Fleurie and Chiroubles), less body, but with bright and delicious fruit, and at times a pepper note. Brouilly is the largest of the appellations and has the most diverse soils, so you might find some have more texture and tannin.
Morgon, Saint-Amour, Côte de Brouilly
Mid-weight wines that can be drunk young, but are best after a few years of cellaring (3-6 years)
These are predominately granite-based, though more decomposed soils have turned to shale and clay. The wines tend to have slightly darker fruit notes, more body, and can have more tannin. Certain “lieu dits,” like the Côte de Py or Les Charmes in Morgon, have richer soils and less granite and produce more powerful wines that can age longer.
Julienas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent
More concentrated wines that require longer aging (5-10 years)
These are the big boys, but for different reasons. Moulin-à-Vent is granite but has high levels of manganese, which is poisonous to vines, restricting yields — thus, producing very concentrated grapes. Julienas and Chénas are considered the bridge between Beaujolais and the north, with high clay and limestone content.
As the holiday season is around the corner, and turkey is to be gracing many a table, a good Beaujolais Cru will be the perfect wine choice.
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Tasting notes: Cru Beaujolais
A few great suggestions, good right now or for your cellar:
Morgon 2014, Fontcraine, Loron et Fils, France red, $20.70, SAQ # 412023. Has an interesting poppy note, suave texture. Fresh, juicy, with dynamic fruit. Delicate tannins. While it doesn’t show the depth of many a Morgon, it’s great value for the price. Ideal apéritif. Grape variety: gamay. Residual sugar: 1.9 g/L. Serve at 16C. Drink now-2018. Food pairing idea: Apéritif, grilled salmon, charcuterie.
Chiroubles 2012, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine des Marrans, France red, $23.10, SAQ # 11153934. Full of lively fresh red fruit and acidity with a subtle mineral note. The tannins are razor thin and delicate, but still grip enough to prolong the long, equally juicy finish. Hidden power. Grape variety: gamay. Residual sugar: 1.6 g/L. Serve at 16C. Drink now-2018. Food pairing idea: Apéritif, roast turkey with cranberry sauce, grilled salmon.
Morgon 2015, Terres Dorées, Jean-Paul Brun, France red, $24.30, SAQ # 11589746. As Brun works with a more conventional vinification, this might be more accessible to those who don’t normally drink Beaujolais. Firm tannins, but stays light and fresh. The fruit is less up front and with more body than you mighty expect. Carafe if drinking now. Grape variety: gamay. Residual sugar: 1.5 g/L. Serve at 16C. Drink now-2022. Food pairing idea: Roast turkey with dark sauce, filet mignon.
Brouilly 2014, Georges Descombes, France red, $25.90, SAQ # 12494028. Cooked strawberry on the nose. In the mouth, gets fresher, juicer, richer, finishing with a hint of lead pencil and smoke. Beautiful Brouilly with fresh and suave texture in perfect balance. Grape variety: gamay. Residual sugar: 1.2 g/L. Serve at 16C. Drink now-2019. Food pairing idea: Apéritif, roast turkey with cranberry sauce, liver and onions.
Moulin-A-Vent 2014, Les Trois Roches, Domaine du Vissoux, France red, $28.55, SAQ # 11154427. Iris flowers, moist humus and hint of morello cherry and raspberry. Mouth filling, with a sensuous texture; rich for a gamy. Will be better in a few years, but already drinking nicely. Grape variety: gamay. Residual sugar: 1.4 g/L. Serve at 16C. Drink now-2021. Food pairing idea: Leaner meats, charcuterie, gamier fowl.
Chiroubles 2015, Christophe Pacalet, France red, $27.95, SAQ # 12847831. Bright and chirpy, with pretty florals. Tannins are delicate and fine. Touch of peppery spice on the finish. This is a wine that is hard to stop drinking. Simple and straightforward, a model for the appellation. Grape variety: gamay. Residual sugar: 1.5g/L. Serve at 16C. Drink now-2018. Food pairing idea: Apéritif, charcuterie, hard cheeses like cheddar.
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