Today, I decided I would stop shit posting (temporarily), and try to actually contribute to the community. For a long time, I’m sure most of you have been looking for a competitive gaming experience that could scratch the itch that MGO2 left on all of us (except me, I’m busy getting pussy lol). For a while, I took up playing different games from different genres (ie; racing/MMOs/indie games/etc) but, I never really found something that could hold my attention. I eventually would go on to try Counter Strike:Global Offensive, and while it’s not a direct transition over from MGO2, it certainly is a great game that I’m sure most people posting here could appreciate with a little time investment. While I know some of you are thinking “You’re a fucking idiot, it’s not even third person rofl”, I assure you that the high skill ceiling, the emphasis on headshots, the deep strategy involved, and GP all translate over. For the sake of keeping a focused discussion in place, I’m only going to touch on the basic/beginner subjects since there’s a lot of depth to CS. The fact is, the game (in it’s first form) was released in 1999. Since then, the level of strategy/depth/skill continues to evolve, and it would simply be too much to cover, at least for now.
The main difference between CS and MGO is that CS is a First Person Shooter, while MGO was/is a Third Person Shooter, which in turn affects how the game meta is developed. At a higher level on MGO, holding corners/angles was pretty important, especially when you were going against 96k POLLEGO ass people. Though lag isn’t as significantly overpowered in CS as it was in MGO, holding angles/checking angles is much more emphasized in CS, as it’s a first person shooter, and in turn requires smarter approaches. By methodically clearing angles when taking a site/portion of the map, you’re much more likely to catch an enemy holding an angle, and in turn, more likely to survive the encounter. As you play (and progressively get better at the game/maps), you’ll become more accustomed to common spots to check, and be much more confident in your pushes.
Modes
Deathmatch - Not an actual Deathmatch, but Team Deathmatch. Good for beginners, I’d suggest FFA (free for all) browser maps when you get to higher skill groups.
Demolition - Just don’t do this. It’s stupid.
Arms Race - Gun Game. Mostly lower leveled players, good for beginners.
Casual - This is a terrible mode after you unlock competitive. It’s good for getting a general idea of how the game plays out, but really it’s a huge unorganized mess, and I hate it.
Competitive - Do this.
The main aspect of the game is competitive 5v5 matchmaking. Two teams are paired up, assigned either the role of Terrorist or Counter Terrorist, and face off in a series of rounds up until either a team reaches 16 Round wins or 30 rounds of play have concluded. The role of the Terrorist team (or T) is to bring a bomb to one of two sites, successfully plant the bomb, and defend said bomb for 40 seconds. The Objective of the Counter Terrorist Team (or CT’s) is to defend both sites from the T’s, and prevent a bomb plant, or successfully defuse a bomb plant within the allotted time. It’s a one life mode, so either team can win by completely eliminating the other team as well. Halftime takes place after 15 rounds have taken place, and both teams switch sides (T’s become CT’s, vice versa).
Ranking
There’s really not much to say here. CS:GO Rankings work off a modified Glicko System, which is covered in this article on Wikipedia. While I never cared about GP as it didn’t directly affect the game (PLEASE VALIDATE MEEEE), the ranking system actually does have “SOME” affect on the gameplay. The distribution of the ranking is based on a bell curve, which essentially means most people will sit in the middle of the rankings, while only a small group of people will hold the very highest/lowest ranks. The way the ranking actually affects the game is that it will pair you up with people according to your ranking/ELO. This, in theory, prevents significantly higher ranking people from facing low level babies, and allows for a challenging, yet rewarding experience.
”Bbb-b-b-but I wanna get better fast, and playing the best will get me better”
That’s great and works to a degree but, the simple fact is that there are nerds that have been playing for 10+ Years. Simply playing people at the top of the ladder won’t make you better instantly (or at a faster rate), as there’s simply too much to learn as you progress along the way through the rankings from playing the game. Accept it, and move on.
Generally Good Advice
DON’T USE A CONTROLLER, LEARN HOW TO USE A MOUSE AND KEYBOARD
Seriously.
IF YOU'RE UNSURE ABOUT SOMETHING, ASK
This game has a high learning curve, and the only way you’re going to learn is by getting over your crippling social anxiety, grabbing your mic, and asking a question if you’re unsure about something. If that’s too much pressure, Google it. With the game as old as it is, there’s a variety of guides available with significant depth, and the only reason I’m writing this up is because I do believe this is a game a lot of this community could enjoy, and it’d be cool to have community 10 man scrims.
LEARN TO AIM
You have to actually aim this time around ladies and gents. There’s no AR2 in this game, you need to learn how to aim. Most of the guns in game have a recoil pattern, and it’s important to learn them at higher levels of play.
This website has all of the recoil patterns available for you to see. Additionally, there are community made workshop maps that can help you train your recoil as you get more comfortable with the game.
STOP LOOKING AT THE GROUND
Crosshair placement is key. As there’s no scoping in for most of the guns, it’s important to get acquainted, and get in the habit of keeping your crosshair at head level at all times. This will take time to get used to but, it’ll pay off in the long run.
TURN DOWN YOUR MOUSE SENSITIVITY
It’s highly likely that your mouse sensitivity is too high. There’s a small group of people who will play with high sensitivity, and that’s fine but, shooting in CS is about making small adjustments, methodically taking firefights, and controlling your aim. The fact is, the maps are designed in such a way where if you coordinate with your team, it’s very unlikely you’ll be killed by an enemy flanking, and you should assume that firefights you’ll be taken will fall within your field of view, which is where having a lower sensitivity makes all the difference. The generally accepted rule is that it should take over 10 inches to turn 360 Degrees (yep, that is correct).
This is a tool that can assist you in finding your sens.
Additionally, turn on RAW INPUT in your settings, and turn Mouse Acceleration off.
LEARN THE MAPS
This will obviously come with time, it’s important to learn the callouts as well. You’ll pick these up as you go, and most maps tend to share the same or similar callouts. This will also in turn help you learn common spots for enemies, and allow you to make decisions based on that.
MONEY IS EVERYTHING
Economy is everything. There’s a huge post made on another forum about this, and I’ll simply throw it in spoilers if you want more information on the economy (I wouldn’t worry about it so much as a beginner, it’ll come with time). Long story short, your choice in weapons is based on your economy, and there’s an important system/strategy in place that will become much more apparent as you get better. Source from Jezzno and Spaeno on the something awful forums.
Spoiler: [+]
Pistol Round
CT:
- Pro-team player: Nade, Flash, Smoke, or as a bitch, kit and smoke.
USP is a one shot kill to no helmet and is better than a glock. Nade utility or survivability is preferable to upgrading your pistol. Especially if you are playing as 5, or with some mates.
These days kits are less useful, but probably still worth it to have one. Good luck finding somebody on MM to do that.
- Standard: Kevlar
The best way to play with the USP is from far long range. With Kevlar it takes around 10 body shots to kill you, and vitally for the USP, mitigates aim punch, giving you the time to hit that one-tap.
- Help I can’t hit headshots??: P250, Smoke, Flash
P250 decent armor pen unlike the USP, meaning you can dick shot incoming rushing glocks to your heart’s content.
Deagle and dualies is mostly trolling. 5-7 is a marginal, probably redundant and worse than having another nade, but maybe in the right position better.
T:
- Standard: Kevlar
Your glock is a pile of shit at taking aim duels. Your mission is to soak up bullets and overwhelm enemies without getting one to the dome. I buy something other than Kevlar literally never unless I am playing with five and there is a set pistol strat that needs nades.
- Bonus Raidboss: Kevlar, dropped Tec-9
Got a good player on your team who owns bones? Drop them a Tec-9 (or get one dropped for you). Combined with Kevlar, the running accuracy makes the Tec and Kevlar a disgusting combo. This person spearheads your rush usually by jumping and headshotting the CT’s and shitting over game balance.
Person who drops Tec gets a smoke or flash.
- Weird idiot with need to be different: Tec-9, smoke
Maybe the best of the rest. Kevlar is just so important that it is hardly worth it.
Second Round
CT:
Win Pistol Round
Did T’s plant the bomb?
Yes: Mix of decent SMGs and FAMAS and nades.
You may want to spend more on premium weapons because it is likely the Ts will pick up AKs next round or even force that round. Keeping these weapons makes it more competitive and saves you money compared to buying an MP9 then buying an M4 the next round.
No: Probably more efficient to pick up only SMGs.
To farm cash for your economy, you want as many SMG kills as possible. Also it is important to bear in mind that if you buy a premium rifle, losing it into T hands can dismantle your round. Losing an SMG is not nearly such a disaster. SMGs lower your risk of throwing the round away.
Lose Pistol Round
Map dependent. On a heavily CT biased map, it is almost always better to force up. Helmet + P250 or 5/7 + Flash, depending on whether you scored a kill. A scout if you have the position for it.
On a balanced map, it depends on your confidence. If you think you are better than your opponent, by all means. If you think they are better or it is close, it is probably worth it to save for a full buy on the 4th round. Naked P250 is fine
T:
Win Pistol Round
Bomb down or not doesn’t really matter.
- SMGs of any kind. Don’t force the issue with an AK. Galil is “ok”.
Personally I believe buying a rifle is unnecessary and can give away your round if you happen to die to a pistol. A CT with a galil and helmet vs your team of Mac-10s/UMPs is suddenly quite scary. Mac-10 not so much.
Lose Pistol Round
No bomb plant.
- Helmet & Tec-9
This is where buying kevlar pays dividends, because if you buy all nades you can’t force up like this if you lose. You do this pretty much no matter what, because it is so effective, and a full buy up as T is cheaper than it is for CT.
The only exception is if you main the AWP, in which case Tec-9 without helmet is OK.
Bomb plant
- Full eco, perhaps a flash or P250 if you want to just rush to get another plant.
This is because you want to force up rifles one round early and have an equipment advantage over the CTs.
- Surprise force with SMGs, or Tec-9 with full nade utility.
Sometimes this is worth it, but it is high risk/high reward. You are at a slight disadvantage equipment wise. Ecoing for a full buy is the safer option, but many opponents are not expecting to face SMGs after winning the pistol.
Warning! Effort post approaches!
General buying rules of thumb:
As a CT, do not have less than $1900 after buying on the third round. This is the minimum to buy up an M4, kevlar, and a smoke/flash.
If by the 5th round you have not had one single full weapon round, you fucked up bad.
It is acceptable to skip helmet as CT for more grenades against what should be a full buy, but if you have the money, you should always get one.
It is much much more acceptable to force a bad buy if your opponent wins one round after a string of lost rounds. This is because it is crippling to their economy and they are unlikely to be able to have a proper buy themselves. This applies mostly as Ts against CTs.
When in doubt, assume Ts can scrounge together a buy round.
Try to follow the majority decision. If 3 people force, don’t hold out on principle’s sake or you will end up in a situation with a money mismatch which will break you pretty fast.
LOOK AT YOUR TEAMMATES’ MONEY BEFORE YOU BUY
NORMAL MID GAME & LATE GAME ROUNDS
NEVER BUY ANYTHING IN THESE ROUNDS WITHOUT LOOKING AT YOUR TEAM'S MONEY FIRST
Full Money buys:Typically you see 3 weapons, AK, M4/M4A1-S, and AWP. This is because the 2 main rifles have the best value for their cost for each side, as far as accuracy, shooting power, etc. And the AWP of course for it's one shot one kill power. Most other purchases are considered gimmicks, but some players really feel better with an AUG, or like to use an autosniper for example. The bad part about relying on vanity weapons is that they are more expensive, if you are spending another 500 or 1000$ on a rifle that you feel more in tune with, in the long game you'll have a round or two where you can't afford a rifle, because of that AUG or SIG(lol) purchase you made earlier in the game. This is why I always buy an AK or M4A1-S, simply the best bang for your buck, and you'll have more money in the future.
As for the AWP, since it costs almost double than a typical rifle, be mindful of your money when you purchase it, as powerful as it is, it could leave you broke next round, when your teammates are full buying and you have to get a pistol+armor just to keep up.
Half buys/Watch your team:Usually if one player on your team has a massive amount of money and other players are broke, he/she should be buying weapons for teammates, but when you can't buy out for all teammates, or if a couple teammates saved weapons from last round, you should communicate as a team and decide if some players should force buy a pistol + armor, or galil/famas + armor. Knowing when to do this is tricky, but becomes more clear with experience.
Eco Rounds:Rounds where almost all of you are broke. Similar to starting round 2, but usually you have more money to play with. If you are CT side, make sure at least 1 player on each bombsite has bought a kit. Always Always Always at least buy a P250. If you get the jump on someone with a P250, you should be able to kill them, thus earning you a free gun. Mix in some grenades if you can afford them and still full buy next round.
Grenades:Grenades are essential and you should be forcing yourself to buy them and use them, even if you are terrible with them, as you will get better with time. Just don't blind your teammates. Smoke grenades are amazing in CS:GO, especially compared to the smokes in source and 1.6. Two smoke grenades thrown by 2 players defending a bombsite can lock it down for most of the round. Similarly, smoke grenades thrown by attacking players can section off parts of bombsites, making them much much easier to take. For example, smoking off CT spawn when taking A site from Long A on dust 2 makes life much easier for T's, as you won't get sniped from there, and pushing the remaining players in A site is way easier.
Flash grenades are also must-buys, and knowing when/where to use them is somewhat of an art. There are many video guides on youtube on where best to use them, as well as other grenades, so I would look up those for references, watching better players use them on GO TV or spectating in a Goonman helps too. Force yourself to use them when taking sites, defending after the enemy has flashed, etc. You will get better.
As for HE, Decoy and Fire Grenades, they aren't as good. HE grenades are almost as good as Flash and Smoke, but their use is sometimes map dependent. Decoy grenades are cute, and distracting, but most good players won't be fooled. Molotov/Fire Grenades are pretty much a more expensive smoke grenade, locking down an area for a period of time.
Hope that helps a little with knowing what and when to purchase things. Communication is key, your money is not your own, treat it as a pool of team money and always buy at least a P250.
There’s so much more to cover but, I’ll simply add more info as I get around to it. With the information above, it definitely is enough to at least get you started, and answer some basic FAQs. If you have more questions, I’ll answer them to the best of my ability but, you can likely find your answer on Google as it’s probably been asked 100000 times before.
Stay Frosty. Poz Negholes
Statistics: Posted by Roxies — April 11th, 2016, 11:23 pm
