I keep in mind many years ago I was component of a thread on a single associated with popular view forums. we said that it was too poor we weren’t alive throughout the 40s-60s, everything I had regarded as the “Golden Age” of mechanized watches. It seemed like right back then, of course, all watches were physical, and most seemed quite affordable, even considering rising cost of living. But another poster rapidly set myself proper. The guy pointed completely that were were living in the Golden Age of mechanical watches suitable now! After a few occasions of factor I realized he was absolutely correct.
A very good discussion could be made that we all live in a Golden Age of mechanical watches now. We have the ultra-high-end brands such as MB&F, Patek, Lange, De Bethune, etc. We now have independents these as Roger Smith, Parmigiani, Peter Speake-Marin, Kari Voutilainen, Richard Mille, and F.P. Journe. And this is perhaps all in addition to the usual suspects like Rolex, Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and dozens of other individuals. But for those without strong pockets there are other choices. A fan of mechanical watches can pick-up a Russian Vostok automatic for well under $100. And there are a seemingly endless wide range of Seiko Diver options under $300 and Seiko 5 choices for under $75. And don’t forget, the Vostok and Seiko (don’t forget Orient) automatics are generally true in-house movements, something that many of the mid-tier Swiss brands can only claim the help of its fingers crossed behind their backs and a wink.
Where I’m moving with all of this is the fact that the 2011 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (sometimes referred to as the “Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix”) prizes were recently completed. This event is a type of business gathering at which the Swiss watch industry fetes its very own. It’s not rather clear for me how much associated with the event is marketing self-promotion by the industry, and exactly how much is more “pure.” irrespective, for us watch followers, it’s another possibility to glance at the products and makes we enjoy.
The awards are selected by a section harvested by, well, I’m not totally certainly just how a person becomes chosen to be in the panel of judges. I will picture a Swiss castle with Pascal Raffy at the door, and puffs of white and black colored smoking coming away from a chimney as candidates tend to be picked.
“Developed in 2001, and as of this 12 months 2011 beneath the aegis of the Geneva Watchmaking great Prix Foundation, this event is intended to salute the excellence of worldwide horological production, and annually benefits the finest creations and by far the most vital figures in the watchmaking world. It therefore contributes to promoting horology and its perfect beliefs – namely innovation …”
The 2011 awards were held on November 19th. Cutting towards the chase, the leading prize champion was the De Bethune DB28, which took home the coveted Aiguille d’Or award. As I’ve pointed out before, I think that De Bethune provides the slickest looking moonphase complication. The brand is actually an air of clean air in a world of Rolex Submariner homages plus the similar. Maybe not that I dislike the Sub, it’s just that it’s wonderful to see some different new designs. Therefore the prizes are given in large part predicated on advancement, both technical and layout.
“The intercontinental jury of this 11th edition, made up of watchmaking professionals, awarded the “Aiguille d’Or” great Prix, the supreme award honouring the greatest watch of the 12 months, to the DB28 design by De Bethune.”
The Best Men’s view award went to the Hermès Arceau Le Temps Suspendu. I really didn’t expect this; a lot of us don’t think of Hermès when we all think of great Swiss/French watchmaking. Carry out read Ariel’s analysis of this watch from previous in the entire year.
“The watch itself comes in a 43mm wide case in metal and also as a limited release of 174 pieces in 18k rose gold. The Arceau design case features a more pronounced lug structure on the top and suavely curved numerals that seem to run around the control. … The retrograde date dial is surprisingly easy to review and I like the way the arms looks to come out of nowhere. Inside the watch is an automatic mechanized movement with the special time suspended module that was specifically designed for any watch.”
The greatest Design Watch prize was awarded to one of my favorite brands, Urwerk, with their spectacular UR-110.
Skipping the technical details, the UR-110 is however another crazy-cool development through the geniuses inside Urwerk. Comparable to De Bethune, they keep on being iconoclasts and shake-up the watch industry. Urwerk describes this watch …
“The UR-110 indicates time by method of a revolving satellite complication on planetary gears featuring three parallel hour/minute modules resembling torpedoes. Enough time is displayed in the right side of the watch, with the satellites following a vertical line – 0 to 60 minutes – in a downward motion. The ingenuity of this format lies in allowing the person to view the time discreetly and elegantly without the need to pull back a cuff.”
And one of the most extremely slick features? The dial side Control Board features an “Oil Change” signal to notify the user when it is time for a service. Amazing. The activity is actually automatic with 46 jewels and a single barrel. Urwerk again implements their air turbines included in the wandering system. Perform not miss Ariel’s hands-on look at this watch with pics. Additionally the endorsed Urwerk video clip? In addition worth your time.
The Best Complicated Watch Prize had been awarded to Zenith for their amazing Academy Christophe Colomb Equation of opportunity. It’s good to find out the Zenith ship back on a reasonable training course after a significant management shake-up and the sunset on the Theirry Nataf era. The Christophe Colomb is another over-the-top creation, and I really like every little bit of it. Undoubtedly, there might still be some good Nataf DNA in the toubillon of this piece, to his credit. At first look it looks muck like the Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon. And given the bubble housing the complication, owners should be INCREDIBLY mindful when going right through doorways! 
Ariel’s review of this watch describes the make-up on the tourbillon: “An escapement on gimbals that moves around such that the escapement more or less is always positioned the same position. … At the bottom of the “gear ball” is a shiny gold fat that will keep the entire thing pointed in the right direction. … the “tourbillon” during the Christophe Colomb moves only with the power of gravity.”
Very what are the unexpected situations right here? There are three surprises in my situation:
I must admit that I never ever could have likely to see anything from Hermès here, they’re seriously perhaps not among the typical suspects.
It had been a bit of a shock to see TAG Heuer displayed here. They’re typically considered the high-end of this mall watch world, rather away from place with the sleep of the group as a brand name. TAG Heuer does do a little cutting-edge work with innovation, yet not much of it appears to make it out of the lab (think Monaco V4 and strip drives)
And rather conspicuous by their absence? Greubel Forsey, MB&F, and Harry Winston.
As an aside, I often wonder if Rolex get’s not enough credit for its slow but especially helpful and practical innovations? The Parachrom hairspring for instance? Though a development like that certainly isn’t flashy and has essentially no aesthetic appeal.
And while I on the whole love the choices, I nevertheless get the Hermès choice a bit of a head-scratcher. It was chosen during the Laurent Ferrier Galet Micro-rotor together with Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle business Time? I actually do wonder just how a lot pressure, implicit or direct, the judging panel is under to make their choices either prominent or in-step with “approved” choices. When reading different watch magazines one wonders why all of us can go years without reading a bad review, and why excuses are often produced for the periodic poor group rating. We of training course ask yourself in the event that fear of offending an advertiser (current or potential) will be the cause. I have no idea what forces are at play in these honours, but I think it could be naive to assume there are none at all.
Regardless of my nit-picky statements, awards and events like the large Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève are indeed fun for all of us watch enthusiasts. They keep us entertained throughout the year, hopefully holding us over until we get to begin discussing Basel 2012 in only a couple several months. And in inclusion to becoming good entertainment, they’re also good for clients. These kinds of events keep competitive pressure on the watch manufactures to continue to innovate and introduce new systems and products. Buyers win in the long run.