Being a successful fashion designer is no easy feat. For those who aspire to be one, they should know that the fashion industry, behind its glamorous veneer, also operates with all the nitty-gritty of a big business. Hence, more than being adept at designing and dressmaking, designers should also be keen on the marketing and business side of the garments trade in order to thrive.
Here in the Philippines, there are a number of aspiring designers who look to the Center for International Trade and Expositions and Missions (CITEM) for support when it comes to honing their business acumen. For the past few years, CITEM has hosted Manila Wear, a segment in Manila FAME, a design and lifestyle event held every March and October, dedicated specifically to fashion.
Vivienne Westwood checks out some of the items exhibited at the recently concluded IFS event in London
Clutch by Amina Aranaz-Alunan
Cuffs by Lally Dizon
Malou Romero's necklace of varying chains
Budji Layug and Rosvi Gaetos
A Lulu Tan-Gan dress made with piña fabric
Embellished necklace by Ken Samudio
An intricately designed accessory by Joyce Makitalo
Twinkle Ferraren's tribal-inspired, beaded accessory
Artisanal shoes by Maco Custodio
Contemporary, Filipino-inspired dress by Len Cabili
Sequined and beaded purse by Nicole Whisenhunt
Gilded accessories by Natalya Lagdameo
Jun Artajo's deconstructed dress
Adante Leyesa's elaborate neckpiece
Anne Marie Saguil's dresses in tropical colors
Carissa Cruz-Evangelista's structured clutches
Sheer details can be seen in this dress by Joel Escober
According to Rosvi Gaetos, CITEM executive director, Manila Wear reflects the organization’s efforts in unifying the local fashion industry. With the help and supervision of fashion designer Josie Natori, Manila Wear aims to help designers with an eye for detail and a nose for commercial trade.
“When we launched Manila Wear in March 2012, we really had this idea to train designers to stop producing garments that you simply can’t wear,” says Gaetos. “We wanted to promote fashions that are wearable and are commercially viable. The designers’ products should also reflect the Filipino-style sensibility of tropical-inspired items.”
Manila Wear provides a learning arena for, preferably, a fresh breed of fashion designers who are willing to learn the ins and outs of fashion retailing, exporting, production, and marketing. More than providing design advice, CITEM also orients Manila Wear’s participants through training sessions on entrepreneurship and trend spotting. In a nutshell, it’s about shaping not only a designer’s aesthetic, but also his/her sensibility as a professional artist and entrepreneur, simultaneously.
Being involved in Manila Wear seems to be advantageous for its participants, especially for those who want their creations to reach a more global market, given CITEM’s connection to organizations like the British Fashion Council and the Philippine Embassy in London. Just last month, six Manila Wear designers presented their products—both accessories and clothes—in this year’s edition of the International Fashion Showcase (IFS) in London. A fashion capital known for its warm reception to talents outside the United Kingdom, London seemed to provide an ideal setting for Filipino designers Jun Artajo, Tipay Caintic, Olivia d’Aboville, Joel Escober, Adante Leyesa, and Ken Samudio to display their world-class creations.
Coinciding with the run of London Fashion Week, the participating designers interacted with international press, fashion buyers, and retailers. Reportedly, some of the items that the Philippine contingent exhibited at the IFS caught the attention of esteemed British fashion designer Vivienne Westwood and veteran fashion journalist Suzy Menkes. In fact, Westwood was said to have found one of Samudio’s clutches “interesting” when she visited the exhibit at 180 The Strand in London.
For the past few years, Filipino fashion designers have so far impressed foreigners in events like the IFS. However, Gaetos clarifies that Filipino buyers have been receptive as well when it comes to patronizing local designs and outputs. In relation, CITEM reports that the garment export industry had a 1.98 percent growth rate from 2012 to 2013, proving that the country’s clothing industry “is on the rise.”
Actually, Gaetos shares that in recent years, Filipino buyers who visit Manila Wear’s exhibition at the SMX Convention Center have become a varied bunch—from trade buyers, representatives from department stores, exporters, and even just the single shopper who happened to fancy a particular item to his/her liking.
Thus, when Manila Wear rolls out this year’s upcoming Manila show at the SMX Convention Center on March 14 to 17, CITEM will have specific divisions dedicated to different types of shoppers. “We’re going to have areas where one can just buy something or a few pieces off the rack,” says Gaetos. “However, we will also have exhibitors who will solely cater to exporters that are going to place big orders.”
Gaetos observes that while Filipinos are talented in design, a recurring problem is how local materials can accommodate mass production. “Of course, if a designer uses something imported, the price of the merchandise will increase,” says Gaetos. To make do with limited resources, Gaetos says that designers can focus on niche marketing, where they can create limited-edition pieces that can entice people on the lookout for unique, well-made items.
For 2014, Manila Wear tapped the expertise of design guru and Manila FAME creative director Budji Layug to help interpret the theme of “Urban Resort” to Manila Wear’s roster of designers, which includes the six aforementioned designers along with Amina Aranaz-Alunan, Carissa Cruz-Evangelista, Maco Custodio, Lally Dizon, Natalya Lagdameo, Joyce Makitalo, Malou Romero, Nicole Whisenhunt, Twinkle Ferraren, Anne Marie Saguil, Lulu Tan-Gan, and Len Cabili.
“This year, we want to hone fashion designers to produce more modern products with a global appeal,” shares Layug. “Design, as a whole, plays a pivotal role in everyday living, including the world’s business sectors, for it sparks creativity.”
During the March show, these designers will have access to various people, which could help them market their goods better and raise the bar for Philippine fashion. “Going global is a huge undertaking,” relates Gaetos. “Designers have to know how to create their own brand and sensibility. They should be aware of what their target market wants.”
For more information about Manila Wear at Manila FAME, go to www.manilafame.com