MarocMama - A Fearless Guide to Food and Travel
Scattered around my website you will find bits and pieces of information about making a trip to Morocco. For the first-timer it can be overwhelming and sometimes even confusing to know what to expect when they arrive. The things that I now take for granted are the things most people have questions about. With a good friend of mine coming to visit for the first time this weekend, I’ve put together this ultimate guide to Morocco for anyone making their first trip.
The Ultimate Guide to Morocco
From North America there are a few flight options to Morocco. The only non-stop flight is from New York JFK to Casablanca. This flight operates daily on Royal Air Maroc/Delta.
Most flights will take you through Europe – almost every major European city has flights into Morocco.
There are also low-cost carriers that connect from European hubs into Moroccan cities such as Marrakech, Fez and Tangier. Once in Morocco traveling around the country on Royal Air Maroc is possible.
Flights go to smaller Moroccan cities such as Oujda, Ouarzazate, Agadir, Rabat, or Essaouira. If your journey is taking you beyond Morocco you will find flights to destinations across the Middle East and West Africa from Casablanca or Marrakech.
Money
The Moroccan currency is a dirham, approximately 10 dirham are equal to $1US
Large cities in Morocco, have ATM machines. Even smaller cities that have branches of the national banks have ATM machines.
Major banks in Morocco include; Atttijariwafa Bank, Banque Populaire du Maroc, BMCE Bank, and BMCI.
Check with your bank about drawing money internationally and what their charges are. In most cases it will be cheaper to withdraw larger sums of money less often (fewer charges)
Make sure that you alert your bank that you will be traveling overseas and using your debit and/or credit card. Many banks will immediately lock your account if a transaction is made out of the country.
If you travel with your national currency you can exchange money for dirhams at any of the national banks, they may restrict the amount that can be done at any one time depending on how much cash they have on hand. Unlike American or European banks, Moroccan banks do not hold unlimited quantities of cash.
You CAN NOT take Moroccan currency out of the country, nor can you exchange your dollars, euros, etc for Moroccan currency in your home country ahead of time. Take this into consideration as you wind down your journey.
Credit cards can be used at hotels, some restaurants and higher end shops. However the majority of the economy runs on cash. If you plan to make any big purchases (rugs, jewelry, etc) plan to have enough cash on hand for this transaction, or seek out a shop that you can use credit (you should know however if this is your only option, and the seller knows this, you most likely will end up being charged more!)
Most visitors will not need a visa to visit Morocco. You should however double check to make sure you will not depending on your passport country. Visitors are typically permitted to stay in Morocco up to 90 days. When you arrive in Morocco you will be asked to fill out a white landing card. It looks like this.
Fill it out completely including the flight number and the address of where you are staying. Not filling this out can lead to delays. Also when you land plan to wait in line for 15 minutes and up to an hour or more depending on how many flights have arrived with you. If you can get seats towards the front of the plane and don’t waste time getting in to the immigration line especially if you have another flight to catch or someone waiting for you. You also need to fill one out when you are leaving Morocco.
The Moroccan climate is very similar to California from north to south. Depending on where you’re staying, the weather may vary dramatically. The Atlantic coast is much cooler in general than the interior of the country. Northern Morocco is more temperate than the south. Generally spring and fall are the most moderate times of year with an average temperature around 70F. Summers can be very hot, well over 100F in the southern parts of the country, and even the northern parts quite warm. Winters can drop down around 40F. This is also the rainy season. It is important to keep in mind that most Moroccan homes and riads do NOT have central heating. Even if 60F sounds like a warm winter day, it’s not so warm when it’s rainy and there’s no interior heating! Most riads and hotels however will have heating and cooling systems.
This will partly depend on what time of year you are visiting, where in country you are going and type of activities you have planned. For the everyday traveler who will be engaging in a typical tour of Morocco some of the items you might want to have on hand are;
clothes that can be layered, think cardigan sweaters, tank tops, lightweight t-shirts, or long undershirts. Pants that can be worn comfortably and worn a few times without needing washing or pressing. Plenty of underwear and socks.
A good pair of sturdy walking shoes – you’ll need them! I love shoes that can be worn everyday but fit with a nicer pair of pants and shirt. Women – you can always buy a pair of low-cost cute sandals in the markets if dressier shoes are called for!
Swimsuit for summer months – note you likely will NOT swim in Morocco in the winter, it’s simply not THAT warm!
A light weight jacket. You may want a warmer jacket if you will be in the mountains or desert during winter months.
For women; one longer shirt (tunic) and a scarf to have on hand in case needed to visit holy/religious sites.
Hand sanitizer or baby wipes to keep on hand.
If you’re traveling off the beaten path you may want to bring some small roles of toilet paper or tissue with but it is more and more common now to find paper in most bathrooms.
A few small gifts for hosts, friends you make along the way. Though not necessary, I like to have them just in case.
Over the counter medication; Tylenol (acetomenophin) , Advil (ibuprofen), antacid, anti-diarrheal medication, band-aids, Benadryl or another allergy medication.
Prescription medication in ORIGINAL containers – this is especially important if flying. Also make sure to include contacts, lense solution and extra glasses/contacts for the trip. If you have any allergies and use an EPI pen – carry it with you at all times. These are hard to find in Morocco. Check out these suggestions for a travel emergency kit.
A small duffle or carrier bag that can be used for small trips or to bring home items you may not have room for in your luggage.
Copies of your travel documents, flight itineraries, and where you are staying. It might also be helpful to keep a detailed list of what is in your suitcase (and receipts if you have them) in case luggage is lost, broken or stolen. Keep one with you, one in your suitcase and leave one at home with a family member or friend. Make sure to include bank card numbers with this information.
You can see my detailed lists on what to pack for women, men, and children if you would like more suggestions.
It is possible now to find almost anything you would want or need in Morocco. That being said you should be sure to bring with you any medications or specialty products that you need or use. If you have a special diet (gluten-free/dairy free etc) you may want to bring along some snacks that can hold you over. While people are beginning to understand what this means in Morocco your options are really limited.
What to Pack in Your Carry-On
Your airplane tickets, travel documents, and trip itinerary
Snacks/food for the airplane, esp. important if you are a picky eater or have dietary restrictions
Reading material, a journal, Arabic or French phrase book. (I like this one).
A pen (you’ll need to file out an immigration card before landing!)
A pair of flip flops or socks to get comfortable on the plane.
Headphones (with or without mp3 player depending on your wants/needs).
Any prescription medications you need for the trip.
OTC medication that might help on the flight (don’t bring the whole bottle in your backpack just a few!)
You may want to bring a sleeping mask, a small blanket or inflatable neck pillow.
Money and bank cards/credit cards.
Language
Moroccans speak many different languages however the lingua franca is Darija, a dialect of Arabic. It’s comparable to West African creole; a combination of several different languages (predominantly Arabic, French, Spanish and Berber). In fact it’s such a blend of languages that most Arabic speakers outside of Algeria and Tunisia can’t even understand Moroccan! It is helpful to learn a few words in Darija to get by during your stay.
Many Moroccans also speak French, though not all. In tourist cities like Marrakech, Fez, Tangier etc you will feel lik people can speak every language in the world. It’s (almost) true. Many Moroccans do speak multiple languages.
Lonely Planet Moroccan Arabic Phrasebook. This book will come in handy especially if you find yourself off the beaten path and only speak English. We have a copy that is falling apart. When I met my husband we used this book constantly to communicate when our French faltered!
la – no
afak – please
labas – how are you?
alhamdulilah – thank god
inshallah – god willing
shukrun – thank you
la, shukrun – no thank you
mafmtsh – I don’t understand
tkalam ingles? – do you speak English?
mitsharfin – it’s nice to meet you.
mashi muskhil – it’s not a problem
zwin or bneen – it’s good/delicious
fin toilette? – Where is the bathroom?
Want more? Read my posts on Introductions and Useful Expressions and Telling Time.
Electronics | WIFI | Cell Phones
Morocco uses the same electrical system as Europe, 220v – make sure you have an appropriate converter for your electronics
Telephones; if you have a GSM compatible phone you can have your phone unlocked before traveling (making sure your cell phone will work abroad). You can then purchase a pay as you go GSM card in Morocco to make and receive calls with (swapping out your GSM card).
If you want to travel with a computer, I highly recommend a netbook or a iPad, something small, compact, and lightweight.
Cyber cafe’s are incredibly common even in small Moroccan cities and are relatively inexpensive, though the connection may not be the high-speed quality you are accustomed to. If you’re only looking to send a few emails, check in on Facebook, or call a family member on Skype this might make more sense than carrying a computer along.
Morocco recently has blocked VOIP calls with cell phones. Calling apps like What’s App, Skype, and Tango WILL NOT WORK over 3G networks via cell phone. Skype does still work via computers.
Morocco is very tourist friendly, DSLR cameras, video cameras etc are very common on the streets. Just be cautious to keep expensive valuables such as these secure.
There are many ways to travel around Morocco. For budget travelers train tickets are cheap, service fairly reliable, and major cities are on the route. There are several bus companies that run throughout the country. If getting to smaller cities that are off the beaten path is part of your itinerary a bus is likely to be the most economical and efficient way to reach your destination.
Many people try to see Morocco in a week or 10 days. This is impossible. If you want to see a lot of the country with little time for travel consider flying point to point. Royal Air Maroc (RAM) flies throughout the country and tickets are relatively inexpensive. Just be aware that RAM struggles with reliability and service standards.
There are two options if a road trip is more your style. Rental cars are available in major cities across Morocco. That being said they are nearly all manual transmissions and expensive to rent. If you decide to go this route, check with your car insurance carrier to see if they cover rental vehicles, it’s also worth checking with your credit card company as some do offer rental car protection. If neither is the case, it’s highly advisable to take out insurance when you are renting a car. Morocco recognizes drivers’ licenses from most countries but beware when driving. The police are quite vigilant, especially if they notice you’re not Moroccan and an inflated ticket price to pay may be likely. You also will be sharing the road with all kind of vehicles. From overloaded transport trucks, to motorcycles, donkeys, and horse drawn wagons.
If you’re not ready to take the driver’s seat, grand taxis’ run throughout the country. In most cities there is a central gathering place for these large long-haul taxis and you can negotiate with the driver about the price for the destination you would like to go. While negotiating make sure you let them know if you want a private taxi or not. If not, don’t be surprised if there’s 4 of you in the back seat and 2 up front, and that the taxi might make stops between your departure point and destination to let off and take in passengers.
Finally, keep in mind that distances on a map appear closer than they really are. Driving through mountain ranges, which cut through the country, takes a lot more time than a straight stretch of road. 200 kilometers through the mountains can take double or triple the time it would on a regular road.
Getting from the airport to your hotel or riad
It is advisable to arrange transportation for your first day in Morocco. Getting from the airport to your accommodation can be confusing and frustrating. Many riads and hotels have transfer services available. Sometimes it is included as a perk of staying and other times there is a charge. Even if you feel like the price of the transfer is high, my advice is truly to book it. You will have less of a headache and will be more at ease on your arrival than trying to sort things out with a taxi driver.
Last year I wrote a long post about 10 tips for women visiting Morocco. Most of my advice on what women should keep in mind are in that post but a few other questions that I am regularly asked include;
How covered do I need to be and is it the same for all regions in Morocco?
This depends where you’ll be. In most large cities you’ll find women who are completely veiled and women who are wearing revealing tops and skirts with 4″ heels – and everything in between. In rural Morocco, dressing more conservatively is advisable.
As a general rule of thumb, I feel that it’s most respectful to cover up a bit. Short shorts and crop tops are not the way to go unless you want to draw the stares of everyone around you. Shirts that will cover your behind and have at least a small cap sleeve are a better options. Loose fitting pants or a skirt may make you feel more comfortable though I regularly wear skinny jeans with tunic tops. I also would avoid shirts that show too much cleavage.
If you plan to swim at a hotel pool, it is completely fine to wear whatever swimwear you want – be it a bikini or otherwise. If you are going to swim on a public ocean beach you can technically wear anything but know that the less you wear the more stares you’ll attract. Also walking around town, even in beach towns, wearing a bikini or a bikini top and pants is really not advisable.
How should I respond to annoying men?
I touch on this a bit in my post on tips for female travelers so jump over there to get the full details but as a general rule don’t engage. Ignore them. If you feel threatened or uncomfortable then find the nearest police officer and tell them. If you are somewhere with a lot of people, don’t shy away from yelling back at the person. If at anytime you are touched then immediately make a scene and if the police are nearby alert them. The sad fact is that many young men feel that they are actually complimenting you when they act this way. While in an ideal world we could take a timeout and show them how wrong they are, it’s not really practical or possible.
I briefly touched on currency above but here is some more advice for dealing with money and shopping.
Are there many ATM’s?
Yes, there are many ATM’s just about everywhere in Morocco. In rural areas you’ll be more limited to options and may discover some are out of money especially on weekends. If you plan to go to more remote areas, plan ahead and get enough cash in the city before you go.
Is it a good idea to just withdraw cash from an ATM?
You can typically withdraw 2000 dirham in a single transaction and will be given 100 and 200 dirham bills. The largest Moroccan bill is 200 dirham. You will want to have change whenever possible. Coins come in 0,20dh, 0,50dh, 1dh, 2dh, 5dh, and 10dh quantities. Bills as 20dh, 50dh, 100dh, and 200dh. Having smaller coins and bills is very helpful as most purchases are done in smaller quantities and vendors hate breaking 100 or 200 dirham bills. You can go into a bank branch to get change for larger bills.
Should I have cash with me to get to the center when I arrive?
There are currency exchanges at all airports. If you need money right away (for taxi fare etc) exchange a small amount of money up front and then use an ATM to get more. Airport exchanges charge a high exchange fee.
Bargaining
Morocco is a cash society and bargaining is a way of life. When you are making purchases you should be prepared for this. Whatever price they give you, cut it by 2/3. Then work from there to get to a point you both agree on. Don’t appear to interested in any one object. This really is a game! If you really don’t want something don’t start the process and walk away. If you do want it but aren’t willing to pay the final price you’ve been given walk away. Many times they’ll come after you and agree to your price. If not, you probably can find it somewhere else.
Moroccan Souvenir Tips
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