Linda Gieskes, hair expert and director of Suki Suki Naturals Trading (Pty) Ltd, gives us a few very important lessons in hair maintenance:
1. Moisture, moisture, moisture
The most important thing for curly/kinky textured hair is to moisturize, and the best way to moisturize your coiled locks is with our old friend: H20. Curly/kinky hair is naturally dry and thus needs constant replenishment with water. However, after wetting your hair, you should always seal the moisture in with an oil or a butter. I love using Unrefined Shea Butter on wet hair – it perfectly seals in the moisture.
2. Never (ever) brush or comb your hair when it is dry
Curly/kinky hair can easily tangle and thus lead to breakage. Before passing a comb through your hair, ensure that your hair is wet and conditioned. You will be able to detangle your hair with more ease and avoid unnecessary breakage.
3. Avoid shampoos that contain Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
SLS is a foaming agent that is contained in many shampoos and acts as a cleaning agent. Basically, it’s detergent for your hair. Although it does indeed get the ‘cleaning’ job done, it is also extremely drying to the hair as it strips it of dirt as well as the natural oils it needs to remain healthy and moisturized. This is particularly harmful to curly/kinky hair textures as these naturally lack moisture and thus cannot afford to be stripped of the little moisture that remains. You should, thus, opt for a shampoo that contains no SLS. My current favourite SLS-free shampoo is the TRESemmé Naturals Nourishing Moisture Shampoo.
4. Clarify
Clarifying your scalp is extremely important in balancing the Ph of your hair and scalp (yes, they have their own Ph) and, if the former is compromised, it could lead to lack of shine, dullness in the hair and overall poor hair health. Clarifying should be done every three weeks with Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV). My favourite is Braggs Organic Apple Cider Vinegar, which can be found in most natural-food stores. Dilute one part of ACV to every three parts of water. It does have a bit of a harsh smell, but it subsides as your hair dries. Clarifying your hair with ACV gets rid of the gunk on your scalp (that has accumulated from using various hair products), closes the hair cuticles, adds shine and balances the pH of the scalp. After clarifying your scalp, rinse off the ACV and proceed with a conditioner.
5. Care for your ends
In order to avoid split ends (and having to trim your hair often), make sure that your ends are always moisturized and protected. My favourite oil to protect and seal my ends is castor oil. Castor oil is thick and works as a perfect sealant for your ends.
6. Avoid direct heat styling
Regularly styling your hair, using direct heat, leads to split ends, dryness and breakage, which probably means you need to cut your hair more often than one who steers clear of heat. If your hair has undergone a chemical process, it is even more prone to breakage than natural hair. A great way to style relaxed hair, without exposing it to direct heat, is by setting your hair in curlers and sitting under the dryer. Although there is some heat exposure, it is not direct like a flat iron or blow-drying, which is the lesser of the two evils. The best approach is to not expose your hair to any heat, and let your hair air-dry.
7. Know and listen to your hair
Whether we accept it or not, our hair speaks to us one way or another. If you’re experiencing abnormal shedding or breakage, you know something is either wrong with your diet, your hair regimen or your health. Either way, your hair (like your skin) will react, and this serves as a sign that should not be not ignored. You should, therefore, learn to listen and develop a sense of familiarity with your hair; it may be trying to tell you something you are overlooking. Continuous use of detrimental products or a regimen that is not suited to you can lead to breakage. What works for one may not work for you, our textures are so diverse. Learn more about your hair and it will reward you for it.
8. Do your oil treatments
Doing an oil treatment once a week really goes a long way, whether you wear your hair in locks, braids, twists, a weave or an Afro. I recommend doing your oil treatments on days that don’t require you to be out and about. I love doing my hair treatments on Saturday mornings, I call them my ‘Spa Saturdays’. After washing your hair with a SLS-free shampoo, add a couple of drops of your favourite oil (extra-virgin olive oil is great as it penetrates the hair shaft) to your hair masque. I love Organics Root Stimulator Hair Mayonnaise. Once you’ve covered every strand of your hair, put on a plastic cap and keep it on for at least one hour. For extra penetration, wrap your head in a hot, wet towel. This will open the cuticles of your hair and it will allow the hair treatment to better penetrate your hair. Once you’re done, rinse your hair with warm water.
9. Low manipulation and protective styling
Protective styling is an excellent way to retain length in your hair, as brushing and combing your hair too often can lead to shedding. Sometimes putting your hair away in braids or twists for a couple of weeks (never exceeding six weeks), can be extremely beneficial in giving your hair a break from often being manipulated.
10. Stock up on omega 3 essential fatty acids (EFAs)!
There is no doubt that a healthy diet is probably the most important way to maintain healthy hair and skin. Certain foods, however, are extremely beneficial in allowing our hair to grow well and long and omega 3 EFAs are one of them. Omega 3 EFAs can combat dry and brittle hair, hair loss, dry, flaky scalp and reduced circulation to the scalp. The benefits of omega 3 EFAs include adding lustre, sheen and elasticity to your hair. Foods that contain omega 3 EFAs are avocados, pumpkin seeds, walnuts and salmon.