I’m so jazzed that April is finally here, I mean it took you long enough, for real! And April means National Serger Month again, holla! Always enthusiastic when it comes to all things serger, you know I love me some knit sewing. Last year I did my gathered basket weave pillow cases, which I love but was a bit more time-consuming than my typical serger project. This year I wanted to show you one of the many tricks I use with a serger that eliminates steps in the sewing process, because that’s the way I use my serger the most. Whenever I’m sewing a knit project I usually try to minimize having to use my sewing machine or switching to coverstitch (which really isn’t bad, but I’m real lazy). That’s why I love adding bands to finish off sleeves and cuffs, because they give a nice finished look without hemming. I often use my sneaky f aux band technique as well (last technique under Finishing Sleeves and Hems), which makes it like don’t-blink-or-you’ll-miss-fast. But this little bow cuff is such a sweet little detail, and I feel like it takes ho-hum leggings into real-cute-land, which really is the place to be if you haven’t heard. And they’re fast, which is really (let’s be honest) why they’re my go-to legging finish.
Begin with your fave legging pattern, I used one of Ottobre’s many varieties (which is incidentally, is where I first saw the bow cuff!). When cutting out, shorten your pant length by about 3 inches, and then cut a rectangle that is the width of your bottom pant edges and has a length of 6″. Also cut a strip that is 2 3/4″ by 7″ or so.
Assemble however you want, I usually zip up the inseams, and then nest leg into leg (right sides together), and sew the crotch.
Fold your cuff pieces in half right sides together and lengthwise, and serge down the sides (be careful you get this right, you should be sewing the edge that is 6″). Now with your tubes, fold the bottom edges up the top edges, wrong sides together, creating a cuff.
Now grab your strip and fold it in half, right sides together and length wise, and then serge down the side, leaving your tails. Turn right side out, and finger press the seam so that it’s fully on one side. Cut tab in half into two lengths (not pictured).
Slide one cuff over pant leg RST, and pin the raw edges making sure to match the inseam of the legs to the seam of the cuff.
Now slip one tab between leg and cuff on the OPPOSITE side of the inseam, and pin. Make sure that your tab is facing seam-side out towards you. Serge around beginning an inch before your tab, making sure to catch all layers. Upon completing the round, stop, but leave your work under the pressure foot, needle down.
Reach in between leg and cuff and pull your tab out and around (scrunching and cinching the cuff) and then pin, creating a loop around the cuff. You want the the loop to be almost as tight as you can make it. Align this tab end to the first tab so they are right on top of each other, and carefully continue serging so you’ve caught ALL six layers at that point. Continue serging for an inch or so after that point and then serge off.
Flip right side out and make sure you haven’t missed any layers (so cute!)Finish legging waist as per your instructions, I always do an elastic waistband with coverstitch topstitch (or zig zag).
And that’s a wrap. You’ll notice I used sweatshirt fleece which although it worked ok, was much harder to work with than regular knit which is a cinch. Just FYI so you know and have been warned. I’ve only ever sewn this detail for my girls, but if this is your flava, it would be famous on grown-up sized leggings too!
Be sure to head over to the NSM’s blog and check my project and so much more amazing serger spectacularness there!