For years, models have been thin, pretty … and conventional. Now a trend for diversity is sweeping the catwalks – and striking a chord with women tired of traditional ideas of beauty
There is a long-held view, encouraged by the airbrush, that beauty has to be flawless. But the latest round of fashion weeks, which began in New York last week, is already showing a distinct trend towards a new type of model good looks.
Quirky, it seems, is chic. Perfection is out and kooky is in, say observers, and to stand out on the catwalk now you need more than a conventionally pretty face and a stick-thin physique.
Companies ranging from Alexander McQueen and Yves Saint Laurent to M&S and Debenhams are choosing to work with models who are quirkier, curvier, older and more racially diverse. And London is leading the way for change before the capital's fashion week, which begins on 13 September.
Perhaps led by street fashion and the ever-growing success of fashion bloggers, who have been pushing back to the art-student-meets-festivalgoer look for some time, designers are following suit and demanding quirky models to showcase their clothes.
Caryn Franklin, co-founder of the fashion diversity campaign All Walks Beyond the Catwalk, thinks women are fed up with the uniform look. "Women are now looking for fashion role models with attitude, flair and individuality. They want more personality and a version of femininity that has more attitude," she said. "We have had the classic docile, obedient, feminine look and we are all sick to the back teeth of it."
Some of the most successful models of the moment have unconventional charms. For Cara Delevingne, it's thick eyebrows, pulling funny faces and doing the Harlem Shake. Georgia Jagger's gap teeth are her signature asset, and her profile is helped in no small way by her rock star heritage. Odd hair colours and styles are more and more acceptable, while style role models include the far-from-bland Chloe Sevigny and Alexa Chung. No one "wants the cookie-cutter model" anymore, according to one Los Angeles makeup artist.
Since the supermodels of the 90s – the likes of Elle Macpherson and Claudia Schiffer – retired their bronzed Amazonian limbs, the favoured look has been vacant and waif-like: an ethereal type, easily made bland and identikit for the catwalk after hair and makeup.
But now the fashion industry is making the most of the Far Eastern market and there are lots more Asian women on the runways. Ming Xi, Xiao Wen Ju and Soo Joo are the faces everyone wants to shoot and slightly curvier models such as Kate Upton are occasionally appearing in place of the typical edge-of-starvation look.
"Whether you're a consumer or a model, a style blogger or a front-row figure, being individual is now integral to the industry," said Hannah Almassi, fashion editor of Grazia. "Years of mass production and copycat trends have created a huge yearning for truly personal style and looks, without the boundaries of supposed perfection."
Displaying other talents, or having a unique selling point – whether that means being kooky and cute, showing a rare openness on social media like Delevingne, or taking on a different persona outside of modelling, such as Jourdan Dunn and her baking – helps audiences around the globe to connect, encouraging brands and designers to seek out and employ these women.
"Social media gives them a much better space in which to operate, using short sentences, fun, catchy, interactive and conversational moments – and they still don't have to use their voice," said Franklin, who has been in the industry for over 30 years. "Delevingne has done it with a variety of silly faces – and everyone has adored it."
Tumblr-loving runway model Kelly Mittendorf is trading on her unique look and rising star Lily McMenamy, the daughter of supermodel Kristen McMenamy, is gaining recognition for her Beetlejuice-inspired style. The trend is such that even traditional beauties are trying to jump on the bandwagon – deliberately changing their looks to make themselves stand out. Burberry model Edie Campbell recently underwent a drastic makeover, trading her long brown hair for a dyed-black mullet, and 31-year-old US model Erin Wasson has numerous tattoos.
London stylist Pandora Lennard has set up an agency to cater for this demand. Anti-Agency looks for women who have talent, style and presence rather than perfect good looks.
"The casting of these 'antimodels' is a great way to convey the mood and inspiration behind a collection," said Almassi. "It's much more effective than just clothes, hair, makeup and music, as it's not just about how they look, but who they really are. Using different-looking people in campaigns and shows can bring people a step closer to the core ethos of a brand. Diesel are great at this. Their current Reboot campaign features a line-up of characters with interesting background, skills and cool personal style to boot."
Opting for alternative models is not a new idea. In the 80s, many models had an effortless confidence and energy, and designers such as Giles Deacon and Jean-Paul Gaultier have been known for street casting and unexpected choices for a long time. Sophie Dahl and Kate Moss made headlines for breaking the mould. But the idea is becoming more mainstream, and it is growing.
Sarah Raphael, deputy editor of i-D, which gave Moss her first cover, thinks it is still a slow process. "Most models remain of the 5-foot-10, size-nothing variety, but they are certainly more diverse now than ever before and fashion's idea of beauty has definitely expanded," she said.
"There are still typically 'pretty' girls – and there always will be – but for i-D, anyway, a girl with a really different, interesting and unconventional face is the one that gets us really excited."
Reported by guardian.co.uk 4 hours ago.