2014-10-01

For years we’ve heard the saying “you are what you eat”, but what’s more accurate is “you are what you absorb.” The far reaching implications of this is now becoming ever more apparent from the mounting evidenced-based research studies that are linking the importance of the healthy state of a person’s gut microflora to one’s total overall heath. Our gut, and its microbiome – the aggregate of all human gut bacteria, provides a metabolic diversity that, among other benefits, aids in the digestion of foods and the development of the immune system. An imbalance of beneficial-to-pathogenic bacteria and yeasts can disrupt a person’s delicate intestinal barrier, which constitutes the body’s first line of defense against harmful bacteria or virus that can cause illness.

Considered our second brain, our gut’s microbiome plays a central role in a myriad of physical interrelationships, which when disturbed or imbalanced can become the root causes of diseases exhibiting as everything from inflammatory disorders throughout the body, digestive disorders, cognitive issues, mood disturbances, diabetes, autoimmune disorders, to even cancer, as well as opportunistic infections such as C. difficile colitis.

Recent discoveries continue to show we have opportunities to make significant differences in our overall health by our daily food choices. Researchers knew that a person’s diet influences the structure and function of the gut microbiota in the long term, but a study published in in the journal Nature (December 2013) suggested that depending on what kinds of food you eat, the types of bacteria in your gut today may be different within just a single day.

The reintroduction of beneficial bacteria to improve digestive function and rebalance the intestinal flora with a “food first” approach is a “whole systems” or integrative approach, and then as needed additional supports in diet, probiotics, supplements. Additionally we’ve learned even more about the importance of a “food first” approach with the increased research in the field of “Epi (above) – genetics,” which involves genetic control by factors other than an individual’s DNA sequence. One of Epigenetics’ concepts, albeit oversimplified, is that “Food contains information.” Studies have shown that “the nutrient signature (of our foods, through epigenetic tags) imprints our cells with information.” Nutrients don’t work in isolation, but synergistically. “Food ingredients act as signaling substances to alter genetic expression, by turning it either “on” or “off,” which results in health or disease.” (Journal Sci Food Agric)

A History of Benefits – Fermented Foods

Did you know that before the modern use of and interest in probiotics and gut health, that almost every civilization and global culture has had at least one fermented food in its culinary heritage? Links between fermented foods and health can be traced as far back as ancient Rome and China. Besides easier digestion and assimilation, one of the important outcomes of food fermentation is the enrichment of food with essential amino acids, vitamins, mineral and bioactive compounds. Beyond flavor, it can also improve product shelf life, ensures food safety, enriches nutritional supplements, and increases the probiotic functions in some foods.

A Few Examples of Therapeutic Fermented Foods:

* Kefir, traditionally a dairy-based fermented drink but now also non-dairy versions, is easily digested and provides the human body with beneficial micro-organisms that contribute to a healthy immune system.

* Kimchi, Korea’s famous accompaniment reportedly helps to prevent constipation and colon cancer and reduce serum cholesterol, as well as possessing anti-stress effects and the ability to help depression, osteoarthritis, liver disease, obesity and atherosclerosis.

* It’s been noted in Indonesia that consumption of Tempeh reduces cholesterol levels. Another study involving postmenopausal women from Malaysia provided results that calcium from tempeh was determined to be as equally well absorbed as calcium from cow’s milk. FYI: regarding any Soy product, due to health concerns about GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms) foods, please consider buying “Organic.”

It’s estimated that there’s been roughly 5000 varieties of fermented foods and beverages prepared and consumed worldwide, however continuing eating these time-honored uniquely crafted foods are on the decline due to traditional food systems losing ground to the growing influence of a western diet and fast foods. You probably already enjoy many fermented food and drinks, like: Sauerkraut, Kimchi, Miso, Soy Sauce, Vinegar, Yogurt, Kefir, Kombucha, Cheese, Wine, Beer, Mead, Cider, and Pickles. However for optimum health benefits and a quality product, lacto-fermented foods work best when produced in small batches, versus large-scale mass production.

For Your Health: CULTURED FOODS FOR YOUR KITCHEN:

100 Recipes Featuring the Bold Flavors of Fermentation

Historically fermentation is a means of preserving the harvest, and food safety, but it is also prized for the range of taste sensations it creates. “Once you begin to understand how easy it is to add flavor to any meal with the help of fermentation, the creative possibilities are quite literally infinite. Open this door of enhanced flavor and nutrition and a whole new culinary universe becomes possible,” comments Sandor Katz, author of Wild Fermentation and The Art of Fermentation, DIY food activist, and expert “fermentation revivalist,” as he introduces us to Leda Scheintaub’s book.

Leda gives home cooks—whether you’re a novice or practiced and accomplished pro—expert guidance on the art of fermentation. With chapters covering Building Block Ferments; Breakfast; Beverages; Condiments and Accompaniments; Salads and Dressings; Soups; Starters and Sides; Main Dishes; and Desserts, she’ll take you on an evolving journey from crafted unique flavors like a spicy kick of kimchi, the cooling tang of yogurt, the refreshing effervescence of kombucha, to the umami depth of miso, and beyond.

You’ll discover one taste sensation after another in Leda’s one hundred recipes using ferments and reflecting influences of many world cuisines, including: Chai Spice Yogurt Latte, Cauliflower and Raisin Salad with Preserved Lemon Dressing, Millet Polenta Cakes with Zucchini, Collard Green Wraps with Cashew Cheese & Chutney, Butternut Squash, Sauerkraut, and Hot Sausage Soup, Tempeh in Coconut Chile-Bean Sauce, Shortcut Salt-Cured Salmon, Cardamom Corn Cake, Salty Molasses Coconut Sorbet, Honey-Pickled Fennel (works as a digestive aid), and many more delicious delectable dishes.

If you relish “kitchen projects”, this book shows how to make versatile building block ferments from scratch, but the recipes also use store-bought ferments as time-savers. She gives some vegetarian or some vegan substitutions options, and a few dairy or gluten-free. I also appreciated Leda’s informative narrative, and her overall approach and perspective; it’s not strictly about the amount of fermented foods you eat, but enjoying diversity. She ”enjoys a fermented vegetable with most meals to round out the flavors and textures…great for a quick meal or brightening up yesterday’s leftovers. Adding a side of sauerkraut, for example, brings new excitement to last night’s dinner, and kimchi stirred into reheated rice makes an effortless lunch. Dessert is a cultured scoop of kefir ice cream, granita, or berries in kombucha.”

Here’s to your health and learning a variety of ways to incorporate fermented flavors, with their bushel of benefits, in to your daily meals and snacks!

RECIPES from © CULTURED FOODS FOR YOUR KITCHEN: 100 Recipes Featuring the Bold Flavors of Fermentation by Leda Scheintaub, Rizzoli New York, 2014.

Please find the following deliciously delightful recipes further below:

* Basil-Lime Kombucha Dressing

* Coconut Milk Kefir – 2 varieties – (Dairy & Non-dairy)

* Tangy Coconut Sorbet (very versatile and great to go with other desserts ala mode)

SPOTLIGHT – LOVIN’ LOCAL:

Slow Food – Free Good Food Community Fair – October 5:

As a celebration of Food “Month,” Slow Food Urban San Diego is hosting their second annual Good Food Community Fair on Sunday, October 5, 2014 from 12pm – 3pm at the new Central Library at 330 Park Boulevard, in downtown San Diego. Participation is free and open to anyone in pursuit of good, clean and fair food for all. There will be a wide variety of activities: cooking demos, speakers, film screening, kids’ area, etc. Details www.slowfoodurbansandiego.org

Just in time for Oktoberfest – Sauerkrauts & more!

* Gold Mine Natural Foods Co.:

Their Ceramic Pickling/Fermenting Crocks – high quality, lead-free crocks have arrived; supplies are limited. They’re a long-time provider of many healthful, specialty foods, including macrobiotic and heirloom varieties, sauerkrauts and kimchi, who moved to a new larger space with a beautiful new kitchen for cooking classes and lectures – upcoming soon. www.goldminenaturalfoods.com

Golden Coast Mead & New Product – Tibetan JUN

Golden Coast Mead, in Oceanside, makes gluten free, sulfite free meads, the ancient libation made from honey. Golden Coast Mead recently released its first Jun, an ancient an unfiltered raw probiotic drink that comes from hundreds of years of Tibetan tradition. Made from a fermented mix of green tea, honey and schisandra berry. A special offer to TLC readers: receive 10% DISCOUNT off orders – Use the code “buy local” at checkout on goldencoastmead.com.

* Happy Pantry: They received The Good Food Award (2014) for their winning sauerkraut! Made in Carlsbad, CA, you’ll find their Raw, Organic, vegan, hand-crafted small batches, sugar free, unpasteurized, probiotic deliciousness at local Farmer’s Markets and a few other spots. www.happypantrysd.com.

Jennifer Joe, Master Degree of Integrative Health (MIH), CFSP, focuses on health and healing for the people & planet, “all things food,” and sustainability. She’ll be giving a free talk “Nourish Your Whole Self with Food & Spirit” at Pharmaca Integrative Pharmacy in La Jolla, CA Oct. 25th, pre-register-Pharmaca (858) 454-1337. Contact her at jjoe@eco-creation.us.

RECIPES from © CULTURED FOODS FOR YOUR KITCHEN: 100 Recipes Featuring the Bold Flavors of Fermentation by Leda Scheintaub, Rizzoli New York, 2014.

Basil-Lime Kombucha Dressing

Featured ferment: kombucha

Makes just over 3/4 cup (180 milliliters)

Kombucha, with its tart taste and slightly astringent qualities, has been likened to cider vinegar, and in fact can take the place of vinegar in any number of dressings. This dressing works with fresh-from the-bottle store-bought kombucha, and it’s also a clever way to make use of overly sour kombucha. When you’ve let a batch of kombucha go a little too long, when it turns from drinking-ready to pucker your-mouth vinegary, don’t toss it: Bottle it, label it kombucha vinegar, and add it to your DIY fermentation repertoire. This dressing is perfect with any green salad.

1/4 cup (60 milliliters) plain kombucha, homemade (page 44) or store-bought

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice, or to taste

1 tablespoon unpasteurized honey (optional)

1 garlic clove, cut into quarters

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt, or to taste

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup (120 milliliters) extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup (20 grams) finely chopped fresh basil leaves

In a blender, combine the kombucha, lime juice, honey, garlic, salt, and pepper and blend until the mixture is combined and the garlic is minced. With the machine still running, slowly add the oil through the hole in the lid and blend until emulsified. Add the basil and blend for a few seconds, until well incorporated (don’t over blend or the basil will lose its vibrant green color). Taste and add more lime juice and/or salt if needed. It will keep in a covered jar in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days.

Kefir: The “Feel-Good” Cultured Milk Drink

Makes 1 quart (1 liter)

FYI: This recipe is page 40 in her book, which she references in some of the following recipes.

Kefir, a probiotic beverage made by adding kefir grains to liquid, traditionally milk, was one of the first ferments to come out of my kitchen as I began to dabble in the craft of culturing. This tangy and slightly effervescent cultured milk beverage is often referred to as a drinkable yogurt. Yogurt plus might be a more accurate description, as kefir contains a greater variety of strains of probiotics and beneficial yeasts than yogurt, and the probiotics in kefir work to directly colonize your gut. The Turkish translation of kefir, “to feel good,” is a fitting description

Kefir originated in the Caucasus Mountains centuries ago, and some say it’s kefir rather than yogurt that’s responsible for the longevity of these people. This super drink has recently made its way into natural food stores, and it’s catching on in a big way. As with dairy yogurt, there is little or no lactose remaining in dairy kefir, making it an option for some lactose intolerant people. For completely dairy-free kefir, make it with coconut milk, coconut water, or almond milk. Water kefir, which uses a completely different starter (see page 42), is another nondairy kefir option (and you can also use the Water Kefir grains or some finished Water Kefir to culture your nondairy milk).

Kefir is the base for some of my favorite frozen desserts (pages 174 to 176), I use it to make a

spreadable cheese, and a glass of kefir straight up makes an energizing between-meal snack. Kefir requires a kefir starter, also referred to as kefir grains or kefir culture, which you’ll reuse with each batch (see opposite on the difference between kefir grains and powdered starter). With proper upkeep, the grains can last indefinitely, and they multiply, so you can share them with friends and family. Note that plain, whole milk kefir is assumed for all recipes that call for dairy kefir.

Kefir Grains Versus Powdered Starter

The traditional way of culturing milk into kefir is with a starter in the form of a kefir culture, also known as kefir grains. They aren’t made of actual grains but rather a combination of yeast and bacteria, and they look like tiny heads of cauliflower. These grains are strained from every batch and can be used over and over again to keep you flush with kefir for a lifetime.

Powdered kefir starters are a recent popular option, marketed for convenience as they are added directly to the milk, stirred, left to sit, and the kefir is ready for drinking, no straining or extra jars required. They may be a good choice for occasional kefir drinkers, but the downside is that they contain far fewer strains of bacteria, so you’re getting fewer of the incredible benefits kefir has to offer. And because they are less potent, they last for only a few rounds and then you have to buy more.

I like the independence traditional fermentation affords and the community of sharing that it fosters, so I’ll stick to my kefir grains. Next time you’re in southern Vermont, stop by and I’ll set you up with a jar!

Tools for kefir making:

1-quart (1-liter) wide-mouth jar or pitcher:

Ingredients:

4 cups (1 liter) raw or pasteurized organic whole milk (see Live Yogurt Start to Finish, page 36)

About 1 tablespoon kefir starter, more if you’d like your kefir tangier.

* Leda has a variety of suggested companies for all things related to fermentation in her Resources Section. To purchase ferment starters, both dairy and non-dairy, a couple companies are: Cultures for Health and GEM Cultures.

Pour the milk into a wide-mouth jar or pitcher. Add the kefir starter. Cover the jar with a clean dishtowel or cloth napkin and secure it with a rubber band.

Leave at room temperature away from sunlight for 12 to 48 hours, depending on the season and kitchen temperature, until thickened and tangy to your liking.

Strain your kefir into another jar, stirring with a spoon to extract all the liquid. Cover and place your finished kefir in the refrigerator, where it will keep for several weeks. Take the grains left in the strainer, put them in a new jar of milk (no need to rinse them first), and make another batch of kefir in the same way. If you aren’t ready to make another batch of fresh kefir, store the grains covered in milk in a small jar in the refrigerator for up to a week; change the milk once every week or two until you’re ready to start making kefir again.

Note that if a batch of kefir goes off, toss the liquid but keep the kefir grains; rinse them and they’ll be good to go again.

Shortcut: Instead of the kefir grains, add a small amount of finished kefir to your milk. It will act as your starter without the extra step of straining; you can repeat this several times before the culture weakens and then go back to culturing with a starter. This kefir-without-cleanup method is a good option for when you’re traveling.

NON-DAIRY KEFIR OPTIONS

Coconut Water Kefir, Coconut Milk Kefir, and Almond Milk Kefir

FYI: This recipe is page 41 in her book, which she references in some of the following recipes.

Make your kefir using the instructions on page 40, substituting an equal amount of coconut water, coconut milk from the can (use two 14-ounce/400-milliliter cans), or almond milk (page 38). Coconut Kefir Cream, made from just the cream part of the coconut milk can (page 165), makes a slightly tangy, supremely rich dessert topping.

Here are some tips for nondairy kefir making:

The standard dairy kefir starter works well for your nondairy kefir, but purists might not wish to use it because it’s based on dairy. An alternative is to add 1/2 cup (120 milliliters) Water Kefir (the finished Water Kefir, not the grains; see page 42) to your 4 cups (1 liter) liquid

(for coconut milk use two 14-ounce/400-milliliter cans and proceed with the recipe; the Water Kefir will act as your starter. Note: www.gemcultures.com is a resource for Water Kefir starter.

Whisk coconut milk until smooth before adding kefir grains to make it easier to strain out the grains.

Your dairy kefir grains can be used repeatedly for nondairy kefir, but they will not multiply. To preserve their longevity, culture them in dairy milk for 24 hours every few batches to revitalize them.

Coconut Water Kefir also can be used as a starter to make coconut milk or almond milk kefir: add 1/4 cup (60 milliliters) for each can of coconut milk or 2 cups (480 milliliters) almond milk.

Heating coconut water, coconut milk, or almond milk gently to 90°F (32°C) before adding the kefir grains can help to jump-start fermentation (higher temperatures will compromise the grains). A shortcut is to pour boiling water into a jar, pour the water out, let cool briefly, then add the coconut water.

Avoid coconut milk and almond milk that contain additives or sweeteners.

Coconut milk kefir is extremely rich (perfect for coconut sorbet); dilute it with water if you’re drinking it straight or adding it to a smoothie.

Almond milk will culture quicker than other milks, normally in less than 12 hours. It will be thinner than dairy or coconut milk kefir and it will separate; give it a good shake before drinking.

Tangy Coconut Sorbet

Featured ferment: coconut milk kefir

Makes 1 quart (1 liter)

Heavenly rich cultured coconut milk makes for a sorbet that’s both creamy and slightly tangy. Coconut cultures are some of the easiest to make at home, as they can be set up in seconds (patience is required only while your coconut ferments on the counter overnight), making this dessert doable for both dedicated DIY fermenters and those just dabbling in the craft of culturing. The rum is included here for flavor, yes, but it also helps to keep the sorbet smooth by preventing the formation of ice crystals. It can be omitted for those avoiding alcohol.

One of the things I like most about making frozen cultured desserts is that every batch will be unique, based on the amount of culture you use, how long you’ve fermented it, and the individual nature of your starter’s bacteria. Sometimes it will be a little more tart, sometimes a little sweeter. Taste your kefir, and use the larger quantity of sugar if it’s especially tangy, keeping in mind that your sorbet or ice cream will taste less sweet once frozen.

If you don’t have an ice cream maker, see page 169 (listed below) for information about making your sorbet without one.

2/3 to 3/4 cup (80 to 180 grams) unrefined sugar

2 cups (480 milliliters) cold Coconut Milk Kefir (page 41)

1 tablespoon coconut rum or other light rum (optional)

1/3 cup (30 grams) fresh shredded or desiccated coconut (optional)

In a medium saucepan, combine 1 cup (240 milliliters) water and the sugar, place over medium heat, and bring to a simmer. Simmer for about 5 minutes, until the sugar has dissolved. Cool to room temperature, pour into a container, and refrigerate until cold, about 2 hours. Whisk in the coconut milk kefir, add the rum, if using, pour the mixture into the frozen container of an ice cream machine, and churn according to the manufacturer’s instructions; if using the shredded coconut, add it 5 minutes before the churning is completed. Transfer to an airtight container and freeze for at least 2 hours before serving.

Ice Cream Without an Ice Cream Machine

FYI: This recipe is page 169 in her book, which she references in these recipes.

It’s possible to make ice cream (and sorbet, too) without an ice cream machine; all that’s needed is a food processor or a simple baking pan, some cleared-out space in your freezer, and a little at-home time. Your ice cream may be slightly less creamy than that made in a machine, but it will be pretty darn close.

In a food processor: Pour the cold ice cream base into the bowl of a food processor, place in the freezer, and freeze for 1 hour. Take the bowl out and scrape the frozen mixture from the sides of the bowl. Run the food processor for a few seconds. Scrape the sides again and run the machine for a few more seconds. Return the bowl to the freezer and freeze again. Repeat, now freezing for 30 minutes at a time and processing and scraping, until a very soft ice cream is formed, 3 to 4 hours total. Transfer the ice cream to a freezer-safe container and freeze until fairly firm, at least 4 hours or overnight.

In a baking pan: Pour the cold ice cream base into an 8-inch (20-centimeter) baking dish, place in the freezer, and freeze for 1 hour. Take it out, scrape the mixture from the sides of the pan, and vigorously whisk with a hand whisk or immersion blender. Return the pan to the freezer and freeze again. Repeat, now freezing for 30 minutes at a time and whisking and scraping, until a very soft ice cream is formed, 3 to 4 hours total. Transfer the ice cream to a freezer-safe container and freeze until fairly firm, at least 4 hours or overnight.

© CULTURED FOODS FOR YOUR KITCHEN: 100 Recipes Featuring the Bold Flavors of Fermentation by Leda Scheintaub, Rizzoli New York, 2014.

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