Little Black Book Delhi
By Abhishikta Mallick “Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are.” It is almost appalling how Bengali food is stereotyped into meaning only macher jhol and bhaat. Arre haan, sondesh…Of course, with that, the list is complete. While these are popular favorites, there definitely is a lot more that the culinary scene in West Bengal has to offer. Fortunately for us Delhiwaalas, the scene’s thriving in our city, and C.R. Park is not just an abode for Bengalis, but offers a subtle glimpse of all the cultural offerings of one of the most languidly intriguing parts of our country – one of which is their food. The Bengali style of cooking is one of the most delicately balanced styles; neither too rich nor too spicy, the subtle flavors are unique to the plethora of options Bengali fare has to offer. Anyone who has witnessed Durga Puja celebrations around town probably realizes what a huge part of Bengali life and culture is devoted to food. The first ceremony of a Bengali child is the ‘annaprashan’ or the ‘first rice’, which marks an infant’s first intake of food {other than milk} with the traditional Payesh {Rice pudding}, and with that the love affair with food begins. Being from one of Bengal’s lesser known neighbours, with a similar palate and style of cooking, Bengali cuisine is pretty close to my heart. Here’s an attempt at deconstructing its complex layers. Typical spices | {Image courtesy: en.wikipedia.org} Mustard | Seeds, paste, oil – mustard finds its way into every Bengali dish in some form or the other. Even mashed vegetables are tempered with mustard oil! Turmeric | Called holud, another essential ingredient of all savory dishes across the board. {Also the main culprit for yellow nails, since everyone eats by hand} Panch Phoran | The Bengali five spice – a combination of whole saunf, jeera, methi, sarso and kalonji – roughly in equal proportions – adds an inviting aroma and depth to any dish Posto | Poppy seed paste, locally known as khus khus, is one of the most unique flavours that has hit my palate. Finger licking good! Kasundi | A pungent mustard dipping sauce, widely served with all fried delicacies {easily available in C.R. Park} Popular Street Food | {Image courtesy: www.feminiya.com} Jhal Muri | Translating into spicy puffed rice, and a contemporary of the more popular Bhel, it is usually served in paper cones and is one of the most popular street snacks. Puchka | Punchy potato mash with tangy tamarind water – no, not the same as gol-gappa. The vendor customizes the salt/spice level as per taste till his simple offering hits all the right notes for you – an eating experience made overwhelming {and delicious} with the amount of care put into it! Chop | The perfect tea-time snack, goes well with a steaming cup of tea, chop is basically a desi croquette. Beetroot, egg {devil}, chicken, mutton or fish, the stuffing options are endless; covered with mashed potatoes, deep fried and served with hot sauce. Yum! Cutlet | A remnant of the British era, but different from the continental style cutlet, this is a spiced minced meat mixture, spread thin and flat, crumb coated and fried. Kathi Roll | The Calcutta Kathi needs no introduction, and has fast become Delhi’s favorite takeaway. Read more here. Main Course Favorites | {Image courtesy: whatanindianrecipe.com} Maach | Bengalis are best known for their fish preparations, and for good reason. Popular fresh fish varieties are Chitol, Pabda, Koi, Rohu and Hilsa; and dried fish {shutki} is also relished. Again, there are multiple styles of cooking : bhaja {plain fried}, jhol {ginger and turmeric curry}, kaalo jeerar jhol {black cumin curry} dpi mach {yoghurt gravy}, shorshe {mustard}, kalia {tomato onion gravy} bhapa {steamed fish} and paturi {wrapped in banana leaves and steamed}. The fish head is utilized to make chhanchara {combination of vegetables and fish head}, macher mathar dal {with lentils} and Muri Ghonto {with rice}. Legend is, the fish brain enriches one with high intelligence! Chingri | My favorite kind of seafood, especially the exquisite Prawn Malai Curry {drool} made with a rich coconut gravy. Other traditional dishes are: paturi {banana leaf parcel}, mocha chingri {with banana flowers}, lau chingri {with bottle gourd}, and daab chingri {cooked and served in a tender coconut}. As a rule, rice accompanies fish and prawn dishes. Mangsho | One of the biggest joys in life is to enjoy the delicious kosha mangsho {mutton curry} and luchi {a puri made of flour} with your family on a lazy Sunday afternoon. Cooked slowly over a light flame, the meat is blended in a thick gravy with luscious spices; this is a dish best tasted rather than described. Another favorite is the Rezala, which is a fragrant yoghurt based stew, best eaten with laccha paratha. Don’t be surprised to see potatoes accompanying the meat dishes; it finds a place in their Biryani as well! Shukto | A traditional Bengali meal usually consists of many courses, starting off with something bitter and ending with a dessert. Shukto is the favorite starter; it is a combination of different vegetables {use your imagination!} and a great palate cleanser. Dhokar Dalna | Similar to the Marwari Gatte ki Sabzi, this dish is essentially a fried lentil cake in a simple garam masala gravy. But don’t be deceived by the simplicity of this description – purely satvik {sans any onion and garlic} and using simple ingredients, dhokar is the masterpiece of Bangla cuisine. Chorchori | A medley of vegetables {usually ridge gourd, pumpkin, potatoes, brinjal}, often including greens, this dish is one of the staples in a Bengali household. The quick sizzle of tempered spices, stir fried multicolored assorted vegetables, lightly seasoned with panch phoran – simple and so delicious. Cholar daal | “Cholar Dal {Bengal gram lentil} is the dal with great arrogance. It is a bit of a snob, not the kind you would like to come home to every day, but the kind you […]
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