By Editors
There’s a stretch of road in our city that has something for every type of connoisseur – from food, to art, culture, heritage, fashion, décor and history. If you’re a birding enthusiast, it has something for you too! Walk underneath a canopy of trees and take in the beauty of what surrounds you; despite being in the heart of Delhi, and catering to cultural hustle-bustle, there’s a sense of calm and quiet about this neighbourhood.
If you haven’t already guessed, we’re making our way to Lodhi Road, digressing a little towards Meharchand & Lodhi Colony Market for a bite, and ending up on a walk through Lodhi Gardens. And we’d like you to join us! Explore monuments from the early 15th century, attend a screening of a French film or a documentary about the Himalayas, carry a camera and shoot the domes and jaalis in Humayun’s tomb, or spend an evening shopping for artisanal and handcrafted creations at one of the neighbouring markets.
The area we’re covering in this neighborhood guide is the stretch from Safdarjung’s tomb to Humayun’s tomb, taking a few lefts and rights here and there. If you do end up wandering slightly off course, remember – ‘All those who wander aren’t lost.’
A WALK THROUGH HISTORY
What sets Delhi apart is its lush, manicured gardens, sprinkled in and around monuments and heritage sites. This part of the city, especially, has plenty on offer for the explorer.
Lodhi Gardens | This manicured garden is host to yoga sessions, curated walks, couples and migratory birds. An ideal spot to read a book or just wander around, you can sight some of our city’s movers and shakers.
Humayun’s Tomb | The tomb is almost like a postcard picture that’s come alive. Apart from the remains of Humanyun and his wife Bega Begum, a history enthusiast will tell you that the tomb also has the grave of Dara Shikoh, the son of Shah Jahan, and other late Mughal emperors. Peacocks, and beautifully lit fountains and gardens make it a photographic paradise.
Safdarjung Tomb | This garden tomb was built by Mughal emperor Mohammed Shah for his Prime Minister, the Viceroy of Awadh. There is also a Madarsa on the premises and The Archeological Survey of India maintains a library over the main gateway.
Nizamuddin Dargah | The setting of Nizamuddin transports us to a whole other universe! Narrow alleyways, hole in the wall restaurants and stores, and a labyrinth of alleys lead you to the gates of the dargah of Hazrat Nizamuddin; spend a Thursday evening here, soaking in the melodies of qawwali.
KHAANA-KHAZAANA & BEYOND
We usually associate Lodhi with International offices, embassies, grand residence and Lodhi Garden, but you will be surprised at the numerous culinary delights on offer here. There’s something for everyone – whether you want to sit at a café, enjoy a huge spread or are looking for a simple budget meal.
Lodi- The Garden Restaurant | A fine dining restaurant with an extensive wine list, and a picturesque ambience amidst the Lodhi gardens. We’ve tried and enjoyed their mezze platter, quinoa salad, and grilled vegetables. Also, they often host events such as film screenings, stand up comedy nights and gigs.
Where | Opposite Mausam Bhawan, Near Gate No 1, Lodhi Road; Price | INR 2500 for two {approx.}
MI Food Center | Serving food for over 50 years now, this landmark in Meharchand Market offers mouth-watering Chicken Tikka - one of the best in town. Read more about them here.
Where | 43 Meharchand Market; Price | INR 200 for two {approx}
All American Diner | Drop in for decadent milkshakes, pancakes, waffles and hotdogs! Though service is not as quick and efficient as it used to be, it will remain a Delhi favorite, and the Sunday brunch is totally worth the long queues.
Where | India Habitat Centre, Lodhi Road; Price | INR 1000 for two {approx.}
New Madras Hotel/Chidambaram | A modest and budget eatery hidden in Khanna Market, this 60 year old establishment offers delectable South Indian food. Try the 3-in-1 idli and Mysore masala dosa.
Where | 7 Khanna Market, Lodhi Road; Price | INR 300 for two {approx.}
CMYK Cafe | If you are looking for a café with Internet, affordable food and good ambience, CMYK is the place to go. They have a collection of books, which one can pick up from and read. Note from the wise – skip the Thai food, and complete the experience with a cut glass of masala chai.
Where | 15 -16 Meharchand Market; Price | INR 600-800 for two {approx.}
Alliance Café | Their in-house café – reminiscent of a Woody Allen film with its seating and French windows – has delicious pastas and sandwiches. Quick service and budget friendly, this a great choice.
Where | Alliance Francaise, KK Birla Marg, Lodhi Estate; Price | INR 250-400 for two {approx.}
IIC Café {members only} | The preferred sitting spot of former Prime Ministers and Presidents, this café still hosts some of the political stalwarts of the years gone by. If you are a member and are looking for a quiet simple lunch, then this is the ideal place.
Where | 40 Max Mueller Marg, Lodhi Estate; Price | INR 400 for two {approx}
Eatopia | This food court covers Indian and Italian and everything in between, along with desserts. Situated in India Habitat Center, this place attracts families because of delicious street food, especially chaats and hearty North Indian food, on offer.
Where | Habitat Center, Lodhi Road; Price | INR 450-600 for two {approx.}
Café 88 | The place boasts of a 5 star style décor, comfort food selected from across cuisines, and gorgeous terrace seating. We recommend the laksa, club sandwich, Vietnamese salad, and cold coffees. Still waiting on their liquor license!
Where | 132-134 Meharchand Market; Price | INR 2000 for two {approx.}
Chez Nini | From its artistic ambience, to the red velvet cupcakes, carrot cake, and flaxseed and walnut breads, Chez Nini’s established itself as a destination populaire for mindful, soulful food. Chef Nira is always switching up the menu – make sure you ask for the specials.
Where | 79 – 80 Meharchand Market; Price | INR 2000 for two {approx.}
Sugar Blossoms | Meharchand Market’s bespoke dessert destination! From cupcakes in innovative flavours, to cake pops, and customized cakes, Sugar Blossoms has got plenty for you to choose from.
Where | 132 Meharchand Market; Price | INR 400 for two {approx.}
Elma’s Brasserie | The popular Hauz Khas Village eatery opened its doors in Delhi’s new It-destination recently, with an extensive menu which goes beyond desserts and sandwiches. We’re yet to visit this branch- drop us a line if you have any recommendations.
Where | 73 Meharchand Market; Price | INR 1200 for two {approx.}
Ploof | Great place for sandwiches and grills, Ploof also has an in-house Deli for gourmands looking to pack cuts of meat in different marinades.
Where | 13 Main Market, Lodhi Colony; Price | INR 2000 for two {approx.}
Tres | Chef Julia Desa and Chef Jatin Mallick come together to create Delhi’s most coveted destination for European & Continental cuisine. Must try – trio of croquettes, anything seafood {always fresh and beautifully seasoned}, and the champagne risotto.
Where | 17 Main Market, Lodhi Colony; Price | INR 2000 for two {approx.}
Kunafa | It’s turned out to be a premiere destination for cashew baklava, dates with orange rind, and an array of desserts made with crisp phylo pastry and dollops of honey. While we’ve been a fan of Bateel dates, Kunafa’s are fantastic as well. It’s not cheap, but it’s worth the spend and the calories.
Where | 70 Meharchand Market; Price | Depends on what you purchase.
Steakhouse | A popular department store amongst residents, it also has a wonderful range of fresh cheese and meats, and condiments and seasoning for every need.
Where | 13/8 Jor bagh Market; Price | Depends on what you want to buy
Devan’s Coffee | Established in 1962, Devan’s is a popular destination for coffee connoisseurs in our city. They source their coffee from South India, and roast it freshly for their clientele.
Where | 131 New Khanna Market; Price | Depends on weight of coffee
AU NATUREL | ORGANIC PRODUCTS, GALORE
If you are looking for organically produced and packed cookies, cream, tea, food, masalas, peanut butter or anything under the sun, the following organic stores in Meharchand market are going to come in handy.
Nourish Organics | Besides the health bars and breakfast cereals, this organic store also has a raw-food menu that features shakes and pastas. Read more, here.
Where | 30 Meharchand Market; Price | INR 150 onwards
Kirana Shop | Recently opened, this store has everything organic under one roof. The variety of dips, syrups and condiments will leave you spoilt for choice. Read more here. (link)
Where | 131 Meharchand Market; Price | INR 150-800 {depending on what you buy}
Altitude Store | Buy their organic nut butters {available in cashew, peanuts, and almonds}. Their range of cured meat {think charcuterie} will knock your socks off. We also love their free-range eggs and chicken.
Where | 110 Meharchand Market; Price | INR 150- 800 {depends on what you want to buy}
NOT JUST WINDOW SHOPPING
Meharchand Market, especially, is a boutique shopper’s paradise. While we’ve listed quite a few of our favourites, please make sure you check out each little store in every nook and corner. You never know what you’ll find!
CMYK Bookstore | They get brownie points for their mind-blowing selection of coffee table books, and funky stationery on offer. Don’t forget to walk up the stairs to the café; enjoy a book over a cup of masala chai.
Where | 15-16 Meharchand Market; Contact | 011 24641881
Play Clan | Kitschy, eclectic, India inspired prints find a home in Play Clan. We’ve gifted many a Play-Clan cup, diary and boxers to friends visiting from other cities. Read more, here.
Where | 17 Meharchand Market ; Contact | 011 24644393
Pia Pauro | If Goa’s on your mind, Pia Pauro’s for you. Bright colours, prints, and drapes call out to you instantly – with her fun and effervescent take on fashion.
Where | 40 Meharchand Market ; Contact | 011 4905 2282
En Inde | Rajesh Pratap Singh, Laurence Dolige, Citrus, Pero, and En Inde’s artisanal chic collection - you have plenty of India based and International brands to choose from. They’re adding elements of home/décor to their collection as well!
Where | 125-126 Meharchand Market, 1st Floor; Contact | 011 49050832
Nappa Dori | This is our favourite spot for handmade Indo-uber-chic accessories. A mix of leather and canvas, Gautam Sinha’s Nappa Dori is a testament to contemporary designs that support traditional styles and crafts. We’d spend on a Nappa Dori trunk, Artists Bag and an inch tape {which looks like a macaroon}.
Where | 25 Meharchand Market; Contact | 011 24622599
Artisan Luxe | Curating charming décor items and furnishings from Jaipur and beyond, Artisan Luxe is a great spot for cushions, rugs and chairs for both home and office spaces. We’ve picked up crockery from here in the past, and animal shaped glass {owls and birds}.
Where | 56 Meharchand Market; Contact | 011 49051158
Shades of India | All textile junkies – you’re going to love exploring Shades of India! You’ve probably spent hours browsing through their home and apparel collection at the Good Earth in Khan Market. The SoI collection in Meharchand is obviously more extensive. Don’t leave without picking up a two-tone bedspread, and ladies make sure you check out their tunic collection.
Where | 127 Meharchand Market; Contact | 011 49053333
Citrus | From tunics and dresses in bright colours, to sarees and evening wear, Shibani Malhotra’s label has got much to offer ladies looking to brighten up their wardrobes. We’d spend money on one of her assymetrical dresses {available in a deep blue and orange}. Very contemporary, very cool.
Where | 119 Meharchand Market; Contact | 011 46109217
Taramay | If you’ve been a regular reader, you know we love our Taramay flats! The store also retails the designer Nayantara Sood’s new handbag collection. What’s on our wishlist? Taramay wedges and the teal and tan travel bag.
Where | 39 Meharchand Market; Contact | 011 24648939
Almirah | This is one of our favourite spots to shop for kidswear! They have a collection of clothes, blankets, totes and more, made from organic cottons, mulmul, ikat weaves, linens and wool, for boys and girls between 0-10 years.
Where | 38 Meharchand Market; Contact | 011 4905022
Crazy Daisy | We really liked their collection of hand-painted mugs {by in-house designers} and TATA’s “rosette” mugs, magazine baskets which come in dual tones, mirrors, and mini bird cages, which make for great room accessories.
Where | 24 Meharchand Market; Contact | 011 46076566, 011 24645087
Anuradha Ramam | Be it kantha, kalamkari print, hand blocking or Ikat, each piece {sarees, stoles, tunics} from Anuradha Ramam has it’s own story. If you are looking to indulge in something that’s bordering on experimental, yet rooted in Indian tradition – this brand is for you. Pick up an Anuradha stole – a wardrobe must have.
Where | 89 Meharchand Market; Contact | 011 26165401
Masaba | This designer’s brought a much needed sense of nonchalance to Indian fashion. From lipstick prints on blouses, to hand prints on sarees, there’s spunk and personality in her creations, and that’s what makes her a favourite in Delhi’s fashion forward circles.
Where | 103 Meharchand Market; Contact | 011 24622565
Kim Brothers {for leather polishing} | If you spill a drink on your favorite leather bag or shoes, Kim will take care of it. One of the best leather laundries in the city, it also customizes shoes.
Where | 13/38059, Jor Bagh Market; Contact | 011 24645174
The Bookshop | An independent bookstore that has been functioning since 1970, it has been described by NY times as the ‘cosiest bookshop in the country.’ In case the book you want is not available in the store, they will source it for you.
Where | 13/7 Jor Bagh Market; Contact | 011 2469 7102
Wonder Tailor | While many a namesake has cropped up in surrounding areas, the first Wonder Tailor in the row of Wonder Tailors is the place we’d go for alterations and minor fixes. He usually only entertains tailoring jobs for men.
Where | 91-92 Meharchand Market; Contact | 011 24618703
FOR YOUR ENTERTAINMENT
A hub of cultural activity, Lodhi’s cultural centers have lots to offer! Here are the most prominent ones.
India International Center | Joseph Allen Stein, the architect of IIC, has designed IHC too. It’s known for organizing talks, and hosting international musicians and scholars. It has an extensive library, open only to members.
Where | 40 Max Mueller Marg; Contact | 011 24619431
India Habitat Center | Enter via gate 2 to see what the Visual Arts Gallery has on exhibit. Cinema fanatics can join the IHC Film Club, which is one of the most active societies in the city {students get a special discount}. The cultural hub hosts events such as exhibitions, plays, talks, and performances.
Where | Lodhi Road; Contact | 011 24682001
Alliance Francaise | If you wish to learn French, don’t look beyond this institute. The French cultural center associated with the French embassy not only promotes French culture and movies, but also hosts Hindi and English theater shows in its auditorium.
Where | 72 Lodhi Estate; Contact | 011 4350 0200
Islamic Cultural Center | The objective of the institute is to promote Islamic culture, and to do so, it hosts sufi recitals, urdu poetry and talks on religion and tolerance by people across the globe. They also have regular trade fairs. Oh, and do hop into their in-house restaurant!
Where | 87 – 88 Lodhi Road; Contact | 011 43535353
Chinmaya Mission | Started in 1953, the mission has today grown to 243 centers around the world. It organizes seminars and talks by various gurus on various subjects.
Where | 89 Lodhi Road; Contact | 011 24643301, 011 24697848
AND A LITTLE MORE |
One Too Many Salons | Dessange Paris and Affinity have opened shop here. Our go-to place for all mani-pedi dates is 1010 Nail Spa {click here to know more}. There’s also Shampoo 89 that we haven’t tried yet, but will drop by soon!
Artisanal Work and Handicrafts | We highly recommend a long walk through Meharchand Market – new stores are opening their doors every week, some of which are fantastic celebrations of our Country’s heritage and handicraft. From FabIndia and Soma, to Cottons & Satins, Karigiri and more, you’ll find plenty to explore and choose from.
When exploring Lodhi Road & surrounding neighborhoods – WALK | Seriously, get into a comfortable pair of flats and walk from Jor Bagh {pick up a book from The Bookstore, perhaps}, towards Khanna Market, where you can devour plates of idli and dahi vada at Chidambaram’s, and walk across to Meharchand Market to window shop and get a latte in one of the cafes.
Keep up to date with all that’s happening on and around Lodhi Road by bookmarking this page – we’ll be updating it ever so often. And don’t forget to add your own inputs to your Little Black Book.
{featured image courtesy | trekearth.com, indiamike.com}
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