India has a glorious History of Rulers, Kingdoms, Foreign invasions, Battles and Socio Economic changes with the passage of time. Today, India is a culturally rich state in spite of different castes and religions. Every state in India can boast of it’s many magnificent tourist attractions. Earlier, people used to travel from one place to another for trading but in modern times, they travel to break away from strenuous, demanding and hectic daily life. Tourists from all corners of the world visit India to explore and see the rich heritage sites.
All of us have traveled to many states in the quest for seeing wonderful tourist spots. However, sometimes in life, one just continues to miss something till one fine day, one gets to visit a series of tourist destination out of the world, beyond ones imagination. That is the time when one utters the word “Eureka” – meaning I have found it. This is exactly what happened to me when i went for a week long trip to Chhattisgarh (city of 36 forts)- courtesy Chhattisgarh Tourism Board (CTB). I felt that nature has come down to mother earth. In other words, it was simply– Paradise on Earth.
History
The state of Chhattisgarh was carved out of many states on 01 Nov 2000 with Raipur as it’s capital. It is 
10th largest, 16th most populous and one of the fastest developing states in India. Madhya Pradesh, AndhraPradesh, Telangana, Maharashtra, Jharkhand, Uttarpradesh and Odisha are the neighboring states.
In ancient times, it was known as Dakshin Kosala, history of which dates back to 4th century AD. It is also believed that Lord Rama had spent sometime here during his 14 years exile. Later, Devi Sita had given birth to Luv and Kush on this sacred land. Over the years, there had been an influx of Mughals and Marathas rulers in the region. In the medieval period, the region was known as Gondwana. Vir Narayan Singh, a land lord was martyred by Britishers during First War of Independence in 1857.
Today, Chhattisgarh is fast becoming a prosperous state while retaining it’s glorious history, tribal culture, and rich heritage.
12 Reasons to Visit Chhattisgarh
Although, I have traveled widely in India and abroad, i had never come across such a beautiful state which has a happy mix of attractions for all age groups. Any tourist destination must attract a tourist with challenges and attractions to serve as reasons to undertake a visit. These could be grouped under Wild life, Adventure, Eco, Tribals, Religion and so on. Therefore, let us first list out everything which vibrant, beautiful and diverse state of Chhattisgarh has to offer to tourists.
National Parks and Wild Life Sanctuaries.
Ancient Hindu Temples and Buddhist Monuments.
Traditional Art, Sculpture and Local Fascinating Handicrafts
Rich History and Religious beliefs.
Unique in many ways- No Sea, no Himalayas yet, it has hills, mountains and big rivers.
Diversity in Climate, Soil, Forests, Plateaus, Natural vegetation.
Mini Tibet, Shimla of Central India, Rice bowl of India, Niagara of East
Unique Tribal Heritage, Dances and Practices.
Majestic Water Falls and Beautiful Nature.
Archaeological Treasures.
Hill Stations and Caves.
Trekking Routes.
My Endeavour
After my fabulous trip, it is now my earnest endeavor to present a candid picture to all my readers so that they can plan to visit Chhattisgarh at the earliest. Plenty of literature is available on the net describing famous tourist spots/places to visit. But, i believe that the views expressed by some one who has been on ground to such places hold more value and truth for others to believe in and follow.
I always go by my favorite quote- “A Journey Begins With Questions And Ends With Stories”. I do not pick out lines from internet and write in my blogs. No way. I travel on ground, observe, clarify my doubts while mixing with people/guides and then express my true feelings and comment on a place from a tourist’s point of view.
With that as the back drop, I assure my readers that the contents of this post will inspire you plan a worthwhile trip to Chhattisgarh with ease.
Best Time To Visit
The best time to discover Chhattisgarh is in winters Nov- Feb. During monsoons Jul-Sep, greenery awaits eyes. Avoid summer months Apr-Jun.
Travel Links
By Air. Swami Vivekanand Airport in Raipur is connected to all metropolitan cities- Delhi, Kolkata, Chennai, Mumbai. Regular flights operate from Bhubaneshwar, Nagpur, Ranchi, Vishakhapatnam. Air India, Jet Airways, JetKonnect and IndiGo are the airlines operating flights to Raipur.
By Road. Bus services connect all cities. However, traveling in bus is time consuming and tiring. Local bus service within the city is rare. It is advisable to hire cabs or use own car. Charges for cabs (Innova)- Rs 14/- per Km. Compare rates of cab service providers before hiring.
By Rail. Raipur is well connected to cities in north, east and central India. It is on Howrah-Nagpur-Mumbai line. Mahasamund is on Raipur -Waltaire line.
My Journey
My trip was confined to tourist attractions in Southern part of Chhattisgarh. Only major attractions have been covered. Besides these, there are many more places to be seen which can be added in the individual’s list while planning.
I traveled from Delhi by flight on 07 Aug as part of Travel Wizards Club (TWC). Thereafter, on reaching Raipur, we traveled together for the next 7 days.
7 Days- Itinerary
Day wise coverage of places of Interest is given below. The time indicated is time taken to cover distance on road and does not include time spent in sight seeing/halts for food.
Day 1– Raipur-Hareli Eco Resort Mohda- Barnawapara Wild Life Sanctuary- 148 Kms, Travel time-3 hours- Night stay at Hareli Eco Resorts.
Day2– Hareli Eco Resorts- Turturia- Sirpur- 20 Kms , Travel time- 30 minutes, Night halt at Hiuen Tsiang Tourist Resort, Sirpur.
Day3– Sirpur-Kanker- ChitraKote- 275 Kms Travel time- 5 hours, Night halt at ChitraKote huts.
Day4– ChitraKote-Barasur- Dantewada-100 Kms one way , Travel time- 2Hours 20 minutes. Bastar Haat on return. Night halt at ChitraKote.
Day5– ChitraKote- Village Maula Padar near Jagdalpur-TirathGarh -35 Kms , travel time-30 minutes, Night halt at ChitraKote
Day6– ChitraKote- Raipur- 280 Kms, travel time-5 hours 45 minutes, Night halt Wood Castle Restaurant, Raipur
Day7– Departure for New Delhi By Flight in the afternoon.
Day Wise Travel
Day 1
We landed at the airport at 9.30 AM and were welcomed by Officials of CTB at the information center. After a brief halt at a hotel, all of us reached CTB office for a meeting with Mr Santosh K Misra, IAS, Director Tourism CTB. He welcomed us and briefed us on tourism efforts in state. We hit the road and set course for our first destination.
Hareli Eco Resorts, Mohda. This is located in Barnawapara Wild life Sanctuary next to a lake in calm surroundings. It has 12 rooms which are very comfortable and nicely done up. It is an eco tourism destination which provides visitors many nature trails, cultural attractions and adventure activities. This place is ideal for Honey moon couples and those who want to break away from daily noisy, hectic routine and provides ample opportunities for Meditation, Yoga, Trekking and Jogging. Early morning walk to the nearest village is an eye opener. Interacting with young and old villagers is very informative and gives an insight into lives of villagers.
Barnawapara Wild life Sanctuary. Located in North Mahasumund District, it is a flat, hilly area with jungles full of Saal, Bamboo, Teak trees. Safari in an open jeep was very exciting and refreshing. During peak season, one can see Tiger, Wild dogs, Cinkara, Bison, Jungle cat, Hyena, Deer, Langoors. We were lucky to get a glimpse of Bison, Deer Jackals and langoors. At places, one can climb towers (Machans) to get a good view of lakes and surrounding areas. Ideal for photographers.
The tribal dance in the evening was a treat to watch. Tribals attired in colored costumes dancing around a bon fire in unison to the melodious beat left everyone gaping. I too danced along with them and tried my hand at playing the drums.
Tired, fatigued but contented, i retired to my room to sleep and wake up fresh for another exciting day.
Day 2
Turturia: This was our first halt. A small village of Anthropological and Archaeological importance. Devi Sita stayed here after Sri Ram left her. Luv, Kush were born here and learnt skills from Maharishi Balmiki. Budhist remains of 8th Century can be seen here. Walk up to the temple is easy and washing face in flowing water is very refreshing.
Enthusiasm of Shiva devotees at the base of the temple really impressed me.
Sirpur: Reached around noon. It was earlier called Shripur (City of Wealth) and was the capitol of Somvanshi kings. Remains of ancient temples and Buddhist monasteries were found as a result of excavations by Archaeological Survey of India. Many statues belonging to Shaiva, Vaishnava, Jain and Buddhist religions were unearthed. Now it is a Hub of Buddhism. Most of the sites are within walking distance. Yet, it is better to have own car/cab.
Sirpur National Dance and Music Festival is held in January every year with the aim of getting artists from all over the country to perform against the back drop of Laxman temple. We did not want to miss out any place so quickly started visiting sites.
Laxman Temple. Built in 7th century AD and devoted to Lord Vishnu, it is one of the finest Brick temples of India. The main temple is intact and only the pillars of mandap remain. The entire temple was built on a stone platform to prevent it from flooding. Carvings of Lord Vishnu and Krishna Leela can be seen. A museum at the rear holds all the artifacts collected as a result of excavations.
Teevardev Vihar. It has remains of two monasteries and one nunnery. At the entrance one can see carvings depicting Buddhist life and Panchtantras. Chinese traveler Hiuen Tsiang has written a lot about this place in his books. His Holiness Dalai Lama has visited the monasteries twice. A statue of Buddha is placed in the center of a monastery.
Baleshwar Mahadev Temple.The remains of main shrine are in the center stone plinth and on four corner are remains of smaller shrines. King Balarjun had two wives Ambadevi and Ambikadevi- one from local area and another one from area now in Karnataka. Two temples (one for each wife) were built for worshiping Lord Shiva. A third temple was built for the priest. The pillars bear all the stories. The king lived somewhere else and often came to this location only for festivities. I met three advocates from Bilaspur who were very sentimental about this temple and wanted to bring their families to Sirpur to show them all the temples.
Anand Prabhu Kuti Vihar. Constructed by Bhikshu Anand Prabhu to impart education to disciples. It has 14 rooms (to accommodate students) and one big statue of Buddha. Dwarpals guard the entrance.
Surang Tila. It is a pyramid structure which houses ancient Shiva temple. The long steps (over 30) are now inclined as a result of an earthquake. Climbing the stairs is a fun loving exercise. Four shrines are of lingas and one of Ganesha. This place is a photographer’s delight.
MarketPlace. The remains of a 6th century market place with clear cut floor plans, streets layout and plinths remind us of the logical thought process of the people of that era. Granaries and Shops were differentiated by the size of the plinth.
Gandeshwar Temple. Located on the edge of River Mahanadi, the temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. There is a statue of Buddha in the center of temple. The top portion of temple has pictures of Shiv Leela and statues of many deities can be seen in the compound. From the rear of the temple, a path leads to Mahanadi where, on the banks, all devotees can take a holy dip. I, along with my colleagues waded through water and joined all devotees singing Bhajans of Lord Shiva.
The river water was very clear and knee deep. I could not stop myself from taking a plunge in the river along with my colleagues. Wow. all the travel fatigue just vanished in few minutes. Back in the temple, evening Aarti was very enchanting and satisfying.
Day 3
Kanker: Reached around 1 PM. Earlier, it was a kingdom but today, it is an important heritage town. The descendants of last ruling dynasty are respected and treated with dignity even in modern era. The Royal family lives in the majestic palace which was built in 1937.
ChitraKote Waterfall: Reached in the evening. The name ChitraKote is derived from the word Chitra meaning “Deer” and Kote meaning “Jhund”. River Indravati cascades from a height of 100 feet over the rocks creating thunderous noise. It is a horse shoe shaped and the broadest waterfall in India. Also called “Niagara falls” of India. The sight of the gigantic water fall is simply amazing during the monsoons (Jul-Oct). It is a nice place for a family picnic. An early morning swim in muddy water of Indravati river (courtesy Monsoons) along with my colleagues was very refreshing. At a close distance, from the banks of the river, the waterfall looked awesome and gave us a feeling as if it was flooding from the sky.
In the evening, tribal dance by a troupe consisting of men and women in red and white dress was breath taking . The tableau formation was eye catching.
To cater for the tourists, 16 double bed luxury cottages and 13 double bed tents with modern facilities (TV, AC,) have been set up close to the waterfall. Double occupancy will cost just Rs 1500/- per day. Restaurant provides all the essentials of cooking.
Day 4
Barsur. Reached around 11 AM. It has many temples dating back to 11th century.
Ganesh Mandir. Kastia warriors who worshiped Naag were always fighting against each other. They worshiped Ganesh in the form of a warrior. Unique twin Ganeshas are the only kind in India.
Mama Bhanja Temple. The relations between Mama and Bhanja were strained. Bhanja could not stand the sight of warrior mama building a temple for his wife. He beheaded mama and hung his skull atop the temple.
Battisa Mandir. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, it was built in 11-12 century. The idols are worshiped even today.
Danteshwar: The drive to Danteshwar was good with hardly any traffic en route. We had to change into Dhotis to enter the temple.
Danteshwari Mandir. Maa danteshwari is considered as the Kul Devi of Bastar. To commemorate her as the most important Goddess of the region, Bastar Dushehra is celebrated each year. It is considered as one of the 52 Shaktipeeths. The pathway to mandir is lined with giant size statues of Hanuman, Lord Shiva and other deities. During Navratris and Dushehra, thousands of pilgrims visit mandir which is situated at the confluence of two rivers- Shankini and Dankini.
Bastar Haat. Visiting well laid out, noisy, crowded and colorful Haat was a unique experience. Fish, fruits, vegetables, baskets, household goods, garments, ropes and toys were being sold at a very reasonable price. Loved drinking Mahua and Salfi.
Day 5
The last four days had made us more inquisitive about abundance of attractions in the area. We all were very keen to spend a day with the tribals and today, we got an opportunity to do so.
Bastar . Bastar is a lush green region inhabited by almost 40 tribes cozily tucked in their villages. Flora, fauna, wildlife and ancient culture provide enough incentive for a tourist to explore this beautiful region. Age old traditions and customs appeal to everyone who mingles with the tribals. Bastar is well known for its traditional handicrafts made out of Bamboo, Sisal, Wrought Iron, Shells and Stones. Kosa silk, Tumba Art and Godna paintings are just a flair for the Adivasis. The tribal communities have maintained their unique identity.
Visit to Mauli Padar. The best part of my tour was a visit to this village not very far from Jagdalpur. While the ladies were busy preparing food, we all went into the jungle to collect red ants which are used to make curry. On our return, the food was ready and we all sat on the ground to eat that sumptuous food. It was traditional dining which we all liked very much.
Here, we met a man who narrated that after 10 days of intensive night pooja, Kul Devi on the 11th day directed him each year to paint murals. This man sits in a building and for the next fortnight, paints murals (whatever comes to his mind) as per directions of Kul Devi . This is strange but true.
Next, I cycled down to the school with two of my colleagues. We distributed candies in school and spoke to students of Class 12 who appeared studious, keen and well motivated to do well in life. Playing cricket with the school boys gave me immense pleasure and satisfaction. I shall cover more about this village in my subsequent posts.
Tirath Garh. The waterfall is located in Kanger Valley National Park. The calm, shallow Mungabahar stream culminates into a very noisy, thunderous waterfall. There are 7 falls in steps at various heights.The water droplets hitting the face is very soothing and refreshing. One has to be careful climbing down 211 steps to the waterfall. The view of the falling water from top of the cliff is awesome.
Day 6
En route from ChitraKote to Raipur, we halted at Kondegaon to witness artisans indulging in various kinds of art.
Bell Metal. Handicrafts made out of Brass and Bronze. Also called as Dhokra art. “Nandi” is a tourist’s pick.
Wrought Iron. The material used is scrap wrought iron to create dark forms of artifacts which include deities, candle stands, lamps etc. Also called Loha Shilp.
Terracotta. Pottery out of Terracotta depicts rituals and customs of tribal life.
Besides the above, there are other forms of arts- Wood Craft, Godna (painting traditional motiffs on textiles) and Tumba (of hollow gourd shells to make vessels to store water and salfi which are very commonly practiced.
On our way back to Raipur, we had a quick bite at a famous road side Dhaba- Makri, 20 Kms short of Kanker. Paratha with butter, Kheer and Lassi was a yummy treat for the day.
A brief halt at Anthropological Survey Of India, Jagdalpur was very informative. We were shown pictures, implements, artifacts related to tribals of the region.
Debrief
We reached Raipur in the afternoon and headed straight to CTB office for a detailed debrief with the Chief Secretary of State Mr Vivek Dhand, IAS. The meeting ended on a successful note.
Day 7
Partings are always sad. I realized it once again. It was time to head back home with fond memories of a wonderful trip to beautiful Chhattisgarh. One by won everyone peeled off from the group for their permanent destinations- sweet homes.
Suggested Tours
Based on my experience of traveling in the southern part of State, I would suggest all readers to break down the tours into shorter duration in order to spend more time at each site. The guides provide useful information and must be hired. The duration excludes the journey period from place of residence to Raipur by any means of transport selected.
Two day Tour:
Day 1-Raipur-Barnawapara Wild life Sanctuary.
Day 2– Sirpur- Raipur (lunch, dinner and night stay at Hareli Eco Resorts on both days)
Three day Tour:
Day 1– Raipur- Barnawapara Wild Life Sanctuary. Night Stay at Hareli Eco Resorts.
Day 2– Sirpur. Night stay at Hiuen Tsiang Tourist Complex Sirpur.
Day 3-Chitrakote- Raipur.
Various combinations can be made based on an individual’s choice and convenience. Guidance must be sought from Chhattisgarh Tourism Board.
Stay And Eat
Besides the resorts and accommodation being provided by CTB which may be costly for some, there are many small hotels and rest houses available in Raipur, Jagdalpur and Sirpur which rent out double bed rooms at a price ranging from Rs 500 to Rs 15oo per day. Keeping the comfort in view, it is advisable to stay in cottages and huts of CTB. For visiting southern areas, it will be convenient to stay at Jagdalpur.
Raipur has good eating places. Dhabas on the highways offer good snacks/food.
Souvenirs
Everyone wishes to carry home some souvenirs for relatives and friends. CTB has established an Arts and Crafts Emporium in Raipur where one can get a variety of souvenirs made of Bell art, Bamboo and other art work.
Stack Up In Car/Taxi
It is advisable to carry the following in your car during travel. The list can be inflated based on individual preferences and experience during travel.
Personal- Clothing as per weather.
Guidance- Route maps, Tourist maps.
Food Snacks, Biscuits, Snacks, packed meals, Water.
First Aid Box- including medicines for adults and children.
Help line numbers. Of CTB information centers, guides, cab services,.
Contacts of hotel bookings/reservations.
Car Accessories- Puncture repair kit, spare Tyre and tube, jack.
Carry On Person
Moving out without adequate preparation will reduce the charm of visiting lovely places. Always carry:-
An Umbrella/raincoat.
Mobile phone with two sims on different networks.
Additional back up storage for mobile phone.
Torch- Electricity may not be available in all places.
Drinking water.
Camera, Sunglasses.
Sunscreen lotion, Mosquito repellent.
Candies/Biscuits.
Comfortable walking shoes with thick soles- snakes in jungles.
Guidelines
Prior to visiting any place, it is mandatory to read all the instructions given out clearly in all the manuals and handouts issued by CTB in the form of Do’s and Dont’s. Violation of the instructions or casual behavior and poor attitude may tarnish the image of tourists in general as well as of CTB. One should not cut a sorry figure in front of tribals.
Few guidelines:
People of Chhattisgarh are very simple, shy and will interact freely only if one is polite and dressed in an orderly manner.
Request tribals (particularly women folk) before taking their photograph. They will nod or smile giving their acceptance.
Show them the photograph to induce confidence.
Be modest and speak softly in Hindi with gestures to establish communication with them.
Take the help of your guide to interact with tribals. They may respond in Gondi (local dialect)
Decorum must be maintained.
Chhattisgarh Tourism Board Office
CTB travel booking office is located at Paryatan Bhawan, GE Road in Raipur where anyone can walk in and with the help of travel experts, plan out their itinerary. Experts will guide in all aspects related to cabs, guides, travel, stay, hotels, bookings, visas, insurances and so on.
Contact Number- +91-771-4224600, 4224611. 4224612
Toll Free Number-1-800-102-6415
email- contactus@chhattisgarhtourism.net
web- www.chhattisgarhtourism.net
Tourism Information Centers are set up at the Airport as well as Railways Station to provide assistance to needy persons.
Appreciation
I would like to thank Mr Santosh K Misra, IAS, Diector Tourism CTB and the entire staff for giving us an opportunity to have an access to such a beautiful state full of art, culture and heritage. Our Liaison Officers Mr Ankur, Mr Anand and Mr Rohit too need a special mention for their splendid efforts in guiding us all through our journey and making our stay comfortable.
At this juncture, I wish to thank Mr Toppo, Mr Ali and all other guides who went out of their way to brief us at every site with interest and zeal.
A big thanks to all the drivers who drove us around the state. They were well behaved and cooperative.
Conclusion
Tourism is a global Industry which is growing at a fast rate. For Chhattisgarh, a boom in this field is very much on the cards because of the massive efforts being made by CTB to promote tourism in the state.
Bastar Dushera Festival (Aug-Oct) and Sirpur National Dance and Music festival (Jan) will serve as a launch pad to attract domestic as well as international tourists. All this will assist in development of local infrastructures and will help in sustaining tourism.
My trip to this culturally rich state has left a lasting impression on my mind. One question is continuously bothering me-Is there any other state in the country so rich in tourist attractions of all kinds? The answer is a big NO. I am now convinced that in the near future, Chhattisgarh is the only state which will come up very high on the Tourism map of World. It will impact tourism all over the world in a big way. And i shall always be part of the drive to enhance the status of this state at all levels in the sphere of Tourism.
My time tested quote holds good even after the journey. Today, i have many stories to tell- all taken out of the pages of my journey to Chhattisgarh- Paradise on Earth. This trip certainly was a Rejuvenating Experience.
I am sure, my readers would take a plunge and head for this Paradise soonest.
Good Luck and Best Wishes CTB- Your efforts will pay off.
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