One of the most popular decorating ideas of the last year has been using flooring planks to decorate a wall. You’ve probably seen these ideas on Pinterest or many home decorating TV shows. And whether it is a rustic, distressed barn wood look or a more formal dark wood like mahogany, laminate flooring is an affordable, easy way to go.
You can add creativity and style to any room by placing laminate flooring on an accent wall. In fact, some decorators are even designing walls that mix more than one laminate floor design into a single wall. For example, this photo shows a single wall that is actually made from more than one of our laminate flooring collections.
If you want to spice up a room yourself with laminate mounted on your wall, read below about how to install laminate on your wall. Or you can click here to open and print our installation instructions.
Wall Mounting Installation Instructions
Limited Warranty for laminate planks on walls: When using this product on walls, we warrant to the original purchaser that the planks will not stain, wear or fade when you follow our installation, cleaning and care instructions.
IMPORTANT: Do not open immediately. You must first acclimate your planks for 48 hours. For example, if you buy your planks on a Sunday, you’ll want to install on Tuesday. Start the acclimation process by laying each box horizontally (flat on their backs) in center of room where they will be installed.
For wall applications, laminate flooring must be at least 10mm thick in order to prevent damage to the locking system caused by brad nailer.
CAUTION: Always use safety glasses and a mask. Sawing, sanding or machining wood products can produce wood dust. If that dust gets airborne, it can cause respiratory, eye and skin irritation. Wood dust has been classified as a nasal carcinogen in humans by The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC).
Precautionary measures if power tools are used:
Please follow a manufacturer’s safety instructions and practices when using power tools. The power tools must be equipped with a dust collector. If you encounter high dust levels, use the appropriate NIOSH-designated dust mask. Avoid dust contact with eyes and skin.
First aid measures in case of irritation:
For 15 minutes you should flush eyes and skin with water. Seek medical attention if irritation persists.
Proposition 65 Warning:
This product contains chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer and/or reproductive harm.
Drilling, sawing, sanding or machining wood products generates wood dust, a substance known to the state of California to cause cancer. Use respiratory protection and other safeguards to avoid inhaling wood dust.
IMPORTANT HEALTH NOTICE FOR MINNESOTA RESIDENTS:
THESE BUILDING MATERIALS EMIT FORMALDEHYDE. EYE, NOSE, AND THROAT IRRITATION, HEADACHE, NAUSEA AND A VARIETY OF ASTHMA-LIKE SYMPTOMS, INCLUDING SHORTNESS OF BREATH, HAVE BEEN REPORTED AS A RESULT OF FORMALDEHYDE EXPOSURE. ELDERLY PERSONS AND YOUNG CHILDREN, AS WELL AS ANYONE WITH A HISTORY OF ASTHMA, ALLERGIES, OR LUNG PROBLEMS, MAY BE AT GREATER RISK. RESEARCH IS CONTINUING ON THE POSSIBLE LONG-TERM EFFECTS OF EXPOSURE TO FORMALDEHYDE. REDUCED VENTILATION MAY ALLOW FORMALDEHYDE AND OTHER CONTAMINANTS TO ACCUMULATE IN THE INDOOR AIR. HIGH INDOOR TEMPERATURES AND HUMIDITY RAISE FORMALDEHYDE LEVELS. WHEN A HOME IS TO BE LOCATED IN AREAS SUBJECT TO EXTREME SUMMER TEMPERATURES, AN AIR-CONDITIONING SYSTEM CAN BE USED TO CONTROL INDOOR TEMPERATURE LEVELS. OTHER MEANS OF CONTROLLED MECHANICAL VENTILATION CAN BE USED TO REDUCE LEVELS OF FORMALDEHYDE AND OTHER INDOOR AIR CONTAMINANTS. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS REGARDING THE HEALTH EFFECTS OF FORMALDEHYDE, CONSULT YOUR DOCTOR OR LOCAL HEALTH DEPARTMENT.
Tools you’ll need to install your new laminate floor:
Laminate flooring
Tape measure
Caulk gun
Premium urethane construction adhesive
Stud finder
Chalk line
Air compressor
Air hose
Brad nailer
Miter saw
Table saw
Jig saw
Drill
Spacers
Installing your new laminate floor over various surfaces:
Our laminate product can be installed over the following wall substrates: drywall, painted drywall, plywood, OSB, cement board. All substrates must be sound, clean, dry, smooth and flat. Do not install over greasy/oily surfaces, loose paint or surfaces with extraneous debris.
Arranging your planks:
For standard installations of laminate on walls, the product can be installed horizontally, diagonally and as a wainscoting. For best results, layout the planks on the floor prior to installing on the wall. Identify the tongue side and the groove side. The tongue side goes against the beginning wall. You’ll recognize it because it has the smaller extension without a ridge on it. Planks can be cut prior to installing on the wall. To maintain a random visual, keep end joints of adjacent rows at least 8” apart.
How to install your planks horizontally on a wall:
Use a stud finder to find wall studs. Mark the studs with a pencil.
Snap chalk lines on the wall along the length of the studs.
Snap a horizontal chalk line on the bottom of the wall to maintain a level installation (for uneven subfloors).
Measure the distance from floor to ceiling and the length of the wall. These measurements will help you to determine both the amount of laminate needed for wall installation AND the spacing of the first and last row of a horizontal installation.
Open at least three cartons of laminate to work from.
Lay out laminate planks on the floor to arrange and see the desired plank visuals and pattern.
Determine if the installation of laminate planks needs to be balanced between the floor and ceiling. This may require lengthwise cutting of the first and last rows of planks.
Maintain a 3/8” expansion space around the perimeter of the wall.
Connect the brad nailer to the air compressor and turn on the air compressor.
Use 1 1/2” to 2” long brads.
Place a premium urethane construction adhesive in the caulk gun and cut open the tip of the adhesive tube to achieve a 1/4″ wide bead of adhesive. A premium urethane construction adhesive is required. We recommend you apply the adhesive to the back of individual laminate planks in a serpentine pattern, which is the shape of an “S.” Use a spacing of 3 to 4 inches between serpentine elements.
Apply the adhesive bead width of approximately ¼” to the back of the initial plank of the first row. For a horizontal install, the first row is the bottom row.
Starting from right to left, place the first plank on the wall at the bottom right corner of the wall. Ensure that the groove side of the plank is facing up and the plank lines ups level with the horizontal chalk line.
Face nail the plank at the stud locations in an area where wall base trim will cover the plank. Also nail the plank through the groove (at the stud locations).
Apply adhesive (in serpentine manner) to the second plank and place the plank on the wall to the left of the first plank. Lock the first and second planks together.
Then brad nail the second plank in the same manner as initial plank.
Complete the first row by repeating the glue, lock, brad nail process.
After completing first row, use a cut plank from first row (if longer than 8”) to start the second row.
Angle the first plank of the second row into the adjacent plank(s) of the first row and fold the plank into place. Remember to go from left to right on the second and subsequent rows.
Do not face nail second row or subsequent rows. Instead, only blind nail into the side groove (at the stud locations).
Using this angle and fold method (with accompanying blind nailing) continue installing planks on the wall. To achieve a random appearance, keep end joints of adjacent rows at least 8” apart throughout the installation. Beginning on the second row and continuing through subsequent rows, you may find it beneficial to use a tapping block on the long side of each plank to help the plank lock into the previous row.
If necessary, the last row of planks may need to be ripped with a table saw.
Remember to maintain a 3/8” expansion space. How to adjust for a diagonal installation: A diagonal installation of laminate on walls is very similar to a horizontal installation, except that the entire installation is done at a 45-degree angle from the floor. Simply snap your initial chalk line at this 45-degree angle and proceed. For a diagonal installation of 45 degrees, the planks that meet the perimeter of the installation will need to be cut on a 45-degree angle.
How to install your planks on a diagonal:
Install a thin sheet of plywood over existing drywall.
Use your tape measure to measure the width of your wall to come up with a balanced layout. You may have to cut the width of the first and last rows to maintain a balanced layout.
Then measure the width of your starting plank; add a 1/4˝ to maintain your expansion space. Place a pencil mark onto the wall at the top and bottom of the starting wall.
Snap a chalk line along the starting wall.
Open at least 3 cartons of laminate to work with initially.
Lay out your planks on the floor to arrange and see the plank visuals and pattern.
Connect the brad nailer to the air compressor and turn on the air compressor.
Use 1-1/2˝ to 2˝ long brads.
Use a premium urethane construction adhesive in the caulk gun. Cut open the tip of the adhesive tube to achieve a 1/4˝ wide bead.
In a serpentine pattern, apply the adhesive to the back of the initial plank of the first row (for a horizontal install the first row is the bottom row).
Place plank on the wall such that the side groove of the plank is facing right and the end groove of the plank is facing up.
Face nail the plank in an area where trim will cover the nails holes the plank.
Also nail the plank through the groove at several locations.
Apply adhesive (in serpentine manner) to the second plank and place the plank on the wall such that the end of the plank can be folded to lock into the groove end of the first plank installed.
Then brad nail the second plank in the same manner as initial plank.
Repeat glue, lock, brad nail process to complete first row.
After completing first row, use a cut plank from first row (if longer than 8˝) for start of second row.
Angle the initial plank of the second row into the adjacent plank(s) of the first row and fold the plank into place.
Do not face nail second row or subsequent rows. Instead, only blind nail into the side groove (After applying adhesive to the back of the plank).
Using this angle and fold method (with accompanying blind nailing) continue installing planks on the wall. To achieve a random appearance, keep end joints of adjacent rows at least 6˝ apart throughout the installation.
The last row of planks may need to be ripped with a table saw.
Remember to maintain a 1/4˝ expansion space.
How to adjust for a wainscoting installation:
Measure the width of your wall to begin coming up with your ideal layout. You may have to cut the width of the first and last rows to maintain a balanced design.
Measure the width of your first plank, then add a 1/4˝ to maintain the required expansion space. Use a pencil mark on the wall at the top and bottom of the wall.
Wainscoting is usually 36” in height. Use a chalk line both vertically and horizontally to ensure that the planks are cut the same length and your installation is straight.
Apply construction adhesive to the back of your starting plank in a serpentine pattern (see horizontal instructions for more about this). Place onto the wall at your chalk lines. The groove side of the plank should be placed at the vertical chalk line.
Use a finish nailer to secure the plank in place. Continue applying urethane construction adhesive to the back of each plank. Lock the side tongue into the previous groove. Secure the plank with finish nails into the groove.
After the installation of all your planks is completed, you should add your trim pieces.
Your base molding should go on first. Then add your chair rail trim to the top of your planks. Place the inside and outside trim pieces onto the wall.
How to install around light switches or power outlets:
We recommend a jig saw or coping saw can be used to cut laminate planks. This will allow proper fit of the outlets or switches. Begin by removing the outlet covers so you can cut the planks to fit around them. Then reinstall the faceplate, which may require a spacer between the outlet and the mounting box or a plastic washer beneath the cover and a longer screw to hold the faceplate to the outlet. You could also use spark rings or box extenders in some situations
How to complete your installation:
When installation is done, clean any excess adhesive that may be on the surface using mineral spirits or acetone. Then clean the surface with a commercially available laminate cleaner. Fill any holes with the appropriate blended filler. We recommend that you control humidity levels in the room within the 35-55% range because your wall can be affected by varying humidity levels in your house.
Distributed by:
Swiss Krono LLC
810 Technology Drive
Barnwell, SC 29812
(800) 777-5145
www.SwissKronoUSA.com