As San Francisco gears up to honor the men and women serving in our Navy and marine services with Fleet Week 2015—which takes place Oct. 6 – 12 in and around the Naval base—we thought it might be fun to take a look at how the military has inspired hairstyles over the years.
In the armed forces, hair has always been about utilitarianism and ease of maintenance, with the hair worn very short for the men and off the face for the women.
“Today’s hairstyles are influenced by many different factors, including military-style haircuts,” says Woody Michleb, International Artistic Director for Cut & Style at Keratin Complex®.
Here’s a rundown of several favored military styles, and how to wear some of these looks in a modern, updated way.
Military haircuts for men
When men first enlist, they are given what’s known as an induction cut—clipped one length, very close to the head (also known as a “buzz cut” in civilian parlance). This short style is required in boot camp and also for soldiers in combat, as the hair cannot possibly get in their way or stick out of their helmets as they fight. Variations on this cut are called the burr cut (slightly longer) and the butch cut (even longer, but still very tight to the head).
FOLLOW REGULATIONS
Variations of the regulation cut on Matt Damon and Brad Pitt.
Officers and others not on front-line duty typically favor the regulation cut, which also was the most common style for men during the first and second World Wars. This cut allows up to two inches of hair on the top of the head, with the hair tapered shorter down the sides and back of the head. Examples from films include Matt Damon as the titular Army paratrooper in Saving Private Ryan and Brad Pitt’s Army tank commander of Fury.
“This is a versatile look that can be styled many different ways to suit the face and head structure,” Woody says. “At Keratin Complex, we have specific products for specific hairstyles. For instance, if you like a wet finish, I recommend Iconic Polish on wet or dry hair; if you prefer a dry finish and texture, then MoldMe cream would be my choice.”
Other styles in this family include the brush cut, with the hair cut so that it can be styled upward on the top (think Tom Cruise’s Top Gun Naval pilot, above), and the undercut, which is currently a popular style for men because of its versatility.
The regulation cut does need regular maintenance to keep it looking good, Woody warns. However, its versatility makes the trips to the barber worth it!
“I have a similar haircut that I change to many different styles,” he says. “I sleek my hair back; I spike it; I texturize it. I’ll have it combed high and back or to the side. Be versatile and daring!”
FADE AWAY
The fade cut on Jake Gyllenhaal and Will Smith.
The fade is a more pronounced version of the regulation cut, with the hair tapered shorter and shorter to the skin. It can come in three versions—regular, high and low—depending on where the super-short hair is visible on the head. This cut is especially good for men of color and those with thick or curly hair, as it keeps the hair under control while also allowing individual personality to come through.
This haircut has been seen on movie characters such as Jake Gyllenhaal as an Army Ranger in Jarhead and Will Smith as a futuristic military commander in After Earth.
Regular trims and a hair-care regimen that helps keep the scalp in tip-top shape are necessary for this type of haircut. Try Keratin Complex Keratin Care Shampoo and Conditioner and/or KeraWhip® Hydrating Cream Conditioner to nourish hair and scalp.
HIGH AND MIGHTY
Denzel Washington and Orlando Bloom wear versions of the high and tight.
The high and tight is essentially a cross between the regulation and the fade, with very short hair across the sides and back of the head, and some length (usually about an inch) at the very top—worn to follow the round of the head or cut straight across in a flat-top effect (as on Denzel Washington’s Army lieutenant colonel in Courage Under Fire.)
An extreme version of this cut, called the recon, is popular with Marines and other macho types. It features an almost-bald head with a fringe of hair along the top that is often referred to as a “landing strip.” Orlando Bloom is one of several characters sporting this cut in the film Black Hawk Down.
Military hairstyles for women
Even though women serving in the military did not see actual combat until very recently, there have always been strict rules regarding their hair. They are permitted to have more hair length than men, but they must wear it in ways that allow for proper fit of headgear and protective equipment.
The general guidelines for women have been expanded in all branches to give more leeway for curly and textured hair, while still emphasizing “the need for a neat and professional appearance.”
Regardless, female military-inspired hairdos are definitely making their way to the mainstream. “A lot of Army-style hairstyles have been brought to the runways during Fashion Week,” notes Woody.
SHORT AND SWEET
Rihanna and Demi Moore, sporting variations on the bob.
Not surprisingly, the short bob is prevalent among military gals, because of the wearability and ease of maintenance of this cut. It can be done in various flattering styles—all one length or in layers—depending on hair type and facial structure.
Examples from films include Demi Moore’s short, upswept bob as a Navy lawyer in A Few Good Men and Rihanna’s choppy bob as a Naval weapons specialist in Battleship.
For women with extremely textured hair who would like to wear a sleek bob, try getting a Keratin Complex smoothing treatment—which in addition to taming curl and frizz will also have the added bonus of making hair easier to maintain for up to five months.
ROCK A BUN
Michelle Monaghan and Jessica Biel wear a bun to go with their uniforms.
Women in the military who prefer to wear longer hair must put it back when in uniform. Typically, they wind it into a tight bun worn low in the center of the back of the head (so as not to interfere with caps or helmets). Regulations state that these buns must not be larger than 4 inches in diameter and 3 inches in depth.
This style can be seen on Jessica Biel as a Naval fighter pilot in Stealth and on Michelle Monaghan as an Army medic in Fort Bliss.
“The best way to achieve this look,” says Woody, “is to spray Sweet Definition from Keratin Complex throughout the hair, run your fingers across the hair to gather it and wrap it with an elastic band. Twist the hair and wrap it all into a bun. Pin it into place with hairpins, and spray with Flex Flow hairspray for a soft finish.”
PLAIT IT STRAIGHT
With the new rules that accommodate women with very thick or textured hair, braided styles are becoming a popular option in the military. These include neat cornrows and two-strand braids (a type of twist). While films have yet to feature a character wearing this style, the cornrows on Jada Pinkett Smith (above) are a good example of how to wear braided hair.
Braids also are big on the runways and on city streets, Woody says—and for good reason. “Braiding is very interesting, because it comes in many creative shapes and sizes. And it can be customized to suite and flatter different people and personalities.”
Military styles on the streets of San Francisco
If you plan to tour the Navy ships or attend events during the celebration (such as the Parade of Ships on Oct. 9 or the Air Show on Oct. 11), don’t be surprised to see variations of the regulation cut, the fade, and the high and tight; or the short bob, the bun, and the braid—on servicepersons and civilians alike!
And if you’d like a military-inspired haircut of your own, as well as the keratin-enhanced products to keep it shipshape, head on over to a Keratin Complex salon!