Next week Bonhams will host its Fine Jewelry sale in New York on April 9th. The 187-lot sale offers selection of beautiful jewels including a number of Art Deco and Belle Époque pieces as well as works from some of the world’s most prestigious fine jewelry houses. Just in time for spring, the sale shines with every color of the rainbow, from verdant emeralds and velvety blue sapphires to stunning pink and yellow diamonds.
A Multi-Colored Sapphire Bracelet, Tony Duquette
the wide bracelet set throughout with oval-shaped blue, yellow and pink sapphires, further detailed with pink, yellow, blue and purple carved sapphire leaves; signed Tony Duquette; estimated total sapphire weight: 305.00 carats; mounted in eighteen karat gold; length: 6 1/2in.
Estimate: $25,000 – $35,000
One of my favorite lots in the sale is a lovely Belle Époque diamond longchain necklace comprising 257 collet-set old European-cut diamonds circa 1910 (est. $40,000-50,000). With an estimated total diamond weight of 53.60 carats, the flowing stream of diamonds a splendid example of the long necklaces fashionable at the time, often layered and draped in abundance around one’s neck. This particular chain was a gift from renowned German novelist Thomas Mann, the recipient of the 1929 Nobel Prize for Literature, to his wife. It has remained within the Mann family ever since.
A Belle Époque Diamond Longchain, circa 1910
comprising 257 collet-set old European-cut-cut diamonds; estimated total diamond weight: 53.60 carats; mounted in platinum; length: 60in.
Estimate: $40,000 – $50,000
Other highlights include a an Art Deco brooch centered upon a 5.88 cushion-cut Kashmir sapphire (est. $125,000 – $175,000), a ruby and diamond bracelet with the majority of rubies of Burmese origin (est. $125,000 – $175,000), an elegant aquamarine and chrysoberyl necklace attributed to Louis Comfort Tiffany for Tiffany & Co., circa 1915 (est. $50,000 – $70,000), and a coral, onyx and diamond Art Deco brooch by Cartier, circa 1925, from the Estate of Patricia Mitau Rhein (est. $15,000 – $25,000).
Here are my favorite lots in the sale.
A Gem-Set, Diamond and Enamel Brooch, Cartier, circa 1925
designed as a coral and onyx bead fan motif, suspending a rock crystal ring, enhanced by circular-cut diamonds; signed Cartier; estimated total diamond weight: 3.50 carats; mounted in platinum; length: 2 1/4in.
Estimate: $15,000 – $25,000
A Ruby and Diamond Bracelet
designed as calibré-cut ruby panels, spaced by pavé and baguette-cut diamond curved links; rubies weighing approximately: 30.00 carats total; estimated total diamond weight: 22.00 carats; mounted in eighteen karat white gold; length: 7in.
Accompanied by AGL report #CS 53733, dated March 20, 2013, stating the majority ruby as: Burmese (Myanmar) origin, with no evidence of heat, minority of rubies: with minor degree of heating residues.
Estimate: $125,000 – $175,000
An Art Deco Sapphire and DIamond Brooch, circa 1925
designed as an openwork pavé-set diamond plaque of geometric design, centering a cushion-cut sapphire, weighing 5.68 carats; estimated total diamond weight: 2.70 carats; mounted in platinum; length: 1 3/4in. (one diamond deficient)
Accompanied by Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF) report #65208, dated October 3, 2012, stating the sapphire as: Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.
Accompanied by AGL report #CS 82347 and letter dated October 16, 2012, stating the sapphire as: Classic Kashmir origin, no indications of heat or clarity enhancement.
Estimate: $125,000 – $175,000
An Aquamarine and Chrysoberyl Necklace, attributed to LC Tiffany for Tiffany & Co., circa 1915
suspending a navette-shaped pendant, set with hexagonal-shaped aquamarines and circular-cut chrysoberyls, from a chain designed as square-cut aquamarine links alternating with pear and circular-cut chrysoberyls; signed Tiffany & Co.; mounted in eighteen karat gold; length of necklace: 23 1/2in., length of pendant: 2in. (one small aquamarine has been replaced)
Estimate: $50,000 – $70,000
Footnotes
Based on the unusual color palette and the design, one would assume this necklace was created by Louis Comfort Tiffany’s head designer Meta Overbeck between 1915-1920. Her creations exemplify a clear understanding of jewelry, color and balance.
It is likely that this sautoir was the culmination of three distinct creative forces at Tiffany & Company, responsible for the outstanding designs during this era. First with George Kunz, the head gemologist for Tiffany & Co. possibly procuring these beautiful and lively coffin-shaped aquamarines, presenting them to Louis Comfort Tiffany. Tiffany would then suggest that these gemstones be incorporated into a Moorish inspired design. Lastly, Meta Overbeck would be entrusted to create designs that transposed these ideas into a piece of jewelry.
The pattern of this necklace together with its color palate of fancy- cut gemstones reflects the classic texture seen in Moroccan architecture and is echoed in the intricately designed gold gallery. This theme was present in many of Louis Comfort Tiffany’s creations as well as seen in his home at Laurelton Hall.
A Multi-Colored Sapphire Necklace, Tony Duquette
designed as a bib of carved leaf and oval faceted sapphires in various sizes and colors; signed Tony Duquette; estimated total sapphire weight: 916.00 carats; mounted in eighteen karat gold; gross weight approximately: 468.4 grams; length: 15 1/2in.
Estimate: $40,000 – $60,000
A Sapphire and Diamond Ring
of bypass design, centering an oval-cut sapphire, weighing 3.45 carats, and an old European-cut diamond, weighing 3.24 carats, with baguette-cut diamond shoulders; mounted in platinum; size 6 1/2
Accompanied by AGL report #CS 59104, dated February 13, 2014, stating the sapphire as: Kashmir origin, no indications of heat or clarity enhancement.
Estimate: $80,000 – $120,000
A Belle Époque Diamond and Seed Pearl Choker, French, circa 1910
suspending a detachable circular openwork pendant set throughout with old-cut diamonds, within a graduating old European-cut diamond surround, enhanced by foliate motifs, suspended from a ribbon bail and similarly designed terminal, to the woven cultured seed pearl chain; with French assay marks and maker’s mark, no. 5936; estimated total diamond weight: 6.60 carats; mounted in platinum; necklace length: 12in.; pendant diameter: 1 1/2in. (pearls untested)
Estimate: $25,000 – $35,000
A Diamond and Seed Pearl Brooch, Marcus & Co., circa 1915
centering an old mine-cut diamond, within an old-cut diamond surround, extending old-cut diamond flower heads, enhanced by seed pearls; signed Marcus & Co.; central diamond weighing approximately 1.50 carats; estimated remaining diamonds weighing: 2.15 carats; mounted in platinum and eighteen karat gold; diameter: 1 1/2in. (pearls untested)
Estimate: $7,000 – $9,000
A Diamond and Carved Emerald Necklace
designed as a series of old-cut diamond-set fleur-de-lis links, suspending a line of graduated carved emerald briolettes; largest emerald weighing approximately: 5.15 carats; estimated total diamond weight: 13.70 carats; mounted in silver and fourteen karat gold; length: 15 1/2in.
Estimate: $30,000 – $40,000
A Sapphire and Diamond ‘Wrapped Heart’ Brooch, Verdura
set with sapphire cabochons, enhanced by pavé set diamond ribbon; signed Verdura; total sapphire weight: 76.53 carats total; total diamond weight: 3.12 carats total; mounted in platinum and eighteen karat gold; length: 2in.
Accompanied by original Verdura invoice, dated October 4, 1999.
Estimate: $15,000 – $25,000