Strategically located between France, Holland, Belgium, Switzerland, and Germany, the European Fine Arts Fair (TEFAF) in Maastricht functions as a high-end trading station for the world’s wealthiest collectors and most prestigious museums each year. The fair, which officially opened on March 14th and runs until the 23rd, expects record interest and sales this year from visitors hailing from around the globe. Already, this year’s Vernissage on the 13th was the most successful in the Fair’s history, attracting over 10,000 private and institutional collectors.
A fragrant wall of roses greets visitors at this year’s TEFAF Maastricht show
With roughly $2 billion worth of the rarest objects from throughout the history of civilization, the number of jewelry exhibitors makes up a small portion of the nearly 274 exhibitors at TEFAF. However, jewelry accounts for $1.38 billion of the fair, or about half the entire estmated value of the art, antiques and other collectibles on offer at the fair. From six Haute Joaillerie exhibitors and 13 antiques and design galleries offering jewelry, TEFAF offers jewelry connoisseurs a wide range of jewels – whether highly collectible or fabulously functional – from which to choose.
Caught on camera! I am in the center, farthest back, of this photo while chatting with Adam Patrick (not pictured) of A La Vieille Russie in their booth at TEFAF.
The earliest, and perhaps most historically intriguing, jewels on offer can be seen at Deborah Elvira (Stand 267), a Spanish dealer best known for collecting 17th century jewelry. To her has been entrusted the sale of a collection of shipwreck gems recovered from the Spanish trade galleon Nuestra Señora de la Limpia y Pura Concepción that sank off the coast of the Dominican Republic in 1641.
A set of buttons and a jewel. Gold and crystal, some remains of enamel in the jewel. Jewel 4.6 x 3 cm. Buttons 1 x 1 cm. Spain, before 1641. Photo courtesy Deborah Elvira.
Recovered from the Spanish galleon Nuestra Señora de la Pura y Limpia Concepción.
On September 20th 1641 the Spanish galleon Nuestra Señora de la Pura y Limpia Concepción set sail from Havana, heavily armed as the Almiranta of the twenty-one-ship fleet of Nueva España, and loaded with one of the richest cargoes ever to embark from the New World. Eight days later, the fleet met a hurricane, was scattered and many ships sank. The Concepción survived the storm, only to run aground on the Abrojos reef, approximately 70 nautical miles north of the present – day Dominican Republic.
Repeated voyages to locate the wreck site were launched by the Spanish Crown in the following decades but it was found only in 1687 -with its treasures, by William Phips, a young sea captain from New England, with financial support of the English King James II.
In 1978 Burt Weber became the modern-day discoverer of the Concepción, after thorough research in the Archivo de Indias of Seville. It was a spectacular engineering feat, as the ship sank in a very dangerous reef maze. In 1993, Tracy Bowden and his companions received the rights to the Concepción site from the government of the Dominican Republic. In an amazing archeological adventure and with the support of National Geographic, the wreck was found in what is now known as the Silver Bank, in the Dominican Republic territorial waters. This set of jewels was found in an almost obliterated wooden chest, together with 3000 silver coins, a Ming jar and ambergris, and it was probably the personal possession of a lady passenger.
Literature: Tracey Bowden, Quest for Adventure, Miami, 2004; Tracey Bowden, ‘Gleaning Treasure from the Silver Bank’, National Geographic, Vol. 190, no. 1, 1996, pp. 90-105; P.J. Borrell, Pérez Montás, Cruz Apestegui et al.,, Huracán, 1724, Fundación La Caixa, 1996, p.70
Exhibitions: Barcelona, Museo de la Ciencia, 1995-1997; Madrid, CosmoCaixa, 1997-1999; Louisville, The Frazier International History Museum, 15 May- 7 September 2010; Key West, The Mel Fisher Maritime Heritage Society, 1 December 2010-16 July 2012
A selection of Hemmerle jewels at TEFAF 2014
For those in search of something more contemporary, Munich-based jeweler Hemmerle (Stand 141) is a highly-anticipated treat for jewelry collectors worldwide. The fourth generation family-run firm puts on display the most creations one will see by Hemmerle in a single place at TEFAF – more jewels can be seen in Maastricht than at their shop in Munich.
Keeping in tone with this year’s Pantone color of the year, Hemmerle displays some stunning ‘radiant orchid’ hued jewels at TEFAF
An annual jewelry treat, devoted patrons flock to Hemmerle’s booth to snatch up their favorite one-of-a-kind creations before anyone else does during the first days of the fair. And this year, Hemmerle debuted their latest creative series of jewels - Nature’s Jewels - in addition to a myriad of innovative pieces that include a pair of earrings that combine meteorite and 2,000 year old jade (already sold) and another pair made of concrete (yes, you read that right), agate and aquamarines.
The tops of these earrings are concrete, a first for Hemmerle, who is known for using non-precious materials in their jewelry
Across the way from Hemmerle is Graff (Stand 142), where you can find larger-than-life rocks fit for a bling queen, and Van Cleef & Arpels (Stand 140), who mixes its latest high jewelry creations with new additions to its Heritage Collection.
Van Cleef & Arpels debuted the Maharaja of Rewa Colombian emerald necklace at TEFAF this year
The historic French jewelry Maison unveiled two magnificent necklaces, among many other jewels, one old and one new. From the Heritage Collection, the Maharaja of Rewa Colombian emerald necklaced premiered at TEFAF alongside a Peony Mystery Setting brooch and foliate necklace combination that literally just came out of the Van Cleef & Arpels workshop.
The Peony Mystery-Setting Necklace fresh from the Van Cleef & Arpels workshop premiered at TEFAF.
The stunning peony with Mystery-Set rubies can be worn as part of the necklace or on its own. Other highlights from the Heritage Collection included an number of mid 20th century jewels from the Maison.
The Buccellati Ducale bracelet at TEFAF
Over at Buccellati (Stand 144), the Italian jewelry firm’s headlining Ducale bracelet was shown together with the rest of the stunning suite, including a magnificent necklace to match.
The matching Ducale suite by Buccellati
Following the continued success of the Buccellati’s Hawaii line, a new addition featuring interlocking rings of white, yellow and pink gold in the signature style debuted at TEFAF.
For antique jewelry and Fabergé collectors, A La Vieille Russie (Stand 110) of New York brought a number of Fabergé silver and hardstone animal sculptures, an enameled snuffbox given to the Imperial family doctor by Czar Nicholas II on occasion of the birth of his daughter, a bonbonniere once owned by the powerful London banker, Leopold de Rothschild, and a number of other significant jewels.
The 1920s Chaumet diadem at A La Vieille Russie
Waiting to unveil at TEFAF, A La Vieille Russie has on offer a 1920s emerald and diamond diadem made by Chaumet as well as a Belle Époque cascading diamond, demantoid garnet and natural pearl leaf necklace, American, circa 1900.
The Belle Époque diamond and demantoid garnet foliate necklace, a highlight at A La Vieille Russie at TEFAF
Front and center at Hancock’s (Stand 243) was one of the most exciting vintage jewels at TEFAF: a superb Retro rose gold bangle set with calibre cut sapphires the links are decorated with brilliant cut diamonds set in platinum and hung with two tassels set with brilliant cut sapphires by Boucheron, Paris circa 1944.
The impressive retro Boucheron bangle bracelet available at Hancock’s at TEFAF
Other notable pieces at Hancock’s include: a beautiful and rare enameled minute repeater clock in the Chinese style by Marcus & Co., New York circa 1925; an exquisite Art Deco Chinoiserie desk clock by Lacloche Frères, Paris circa 1925 with dial decoration by Vladimir Makovsky; an Art Deco finely pierced diamond ‘Flowerhead’ necklace/bracelet with detachable velvet band French circa 1925; and a superb double row diamond and winded round ‘Ribbbon’ motif set with baguette cut diamonds by Pierre Sterle, Paris circa 1960.
The ‘Ribbbon’ motif necklace with baguette cut diamonds by Pierre Sterle, Paris circa 1960 at Hancock’s at TEFAF
The beautiful and rare enameled minute repeater clock in the Chinese style by Marcus & Co., one of many exquisite clocks at Hancock’s at TEFAF
Opposite Hancock’s, fellow London dealer Wartski (Stand 242) also brought their best to TEFAF. A renowned dealer in Fabergé, Wartski displayed an Imperial gold portrait presentation case centered by an oval portrait miniature of Tsar Nicholas II. The case was presented by the Tsar to Secretary of State Nikolai Mansurov and was later owned by Frank Sinatra, a Fabergé collector and frequenter of Wartski.
A true highlight at Wartski this year at TEFAF, an Imperial gold portrait presentation case centered by an oval portrait miniature of Tsar Nicholas II
Another notable piece is a pair of sapphire and diamond-set dress ornaments in the form of ears of wheat and cornflowers, circa 1750, two of a set of twenty made for Empress Elizabeth Petrovna (1709-1761), daughter of Peter the Great and his second wife, Catherine I.
Wartski also offers at TEFAF a pair of sapphire and diamond-set dress ornaments in the form of ears of wheat and cornflowers, circa 1750, two of a set of twenty made for Empress Elizabeth Petrovna (1709-1761), daughter of Peter the Great and his second wife, Catherine I.
At S.J. Phillips (Stand 114), a number 18th century jewels up through the 20th century examples demonstrate the wide variety of pieces available at TEFAF. Among the highlights and newest acquisitions is this early 20th century rectangular gold and gem set box case with owl design by Lacloche Frères, Paris, circa 1907.
Early 20th century rectangular gold and gem set box case with owl design by Lacloche Freres, Paris, with 18ct gold London import marks for 1907,
the cover embossed in low relief with a perched owl, viewed straight on, with cabochon cat’s eye and calibre ruby cluster eyes, diamond set beak and claws, the reverse similarly embossed with the back of the owl, the tail feathers overlapping the end the box, signed and stamped serial number within 13060
With only one full day to make the rounds, it was difficult for me to take in everything TEFAF has to offer – and not just jewelry. Regardless, the experience was unforgettable. If you have not yet attended this spectacular fair, I highly recommend making a vacation of it in the future. It’s like visiting one of the world’s foremost museums, however everything that you see is actually for sale.
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