I’m off to Maastricht this week for The European Fine Art Fair (TEFAF), which opens on Friday, March 14th. Considered to be the world’s greatest art and antiques fair, the annual event brings the most prestigious art and antiques dealers from around the globe under one roof, offering collectors the chance to purchase an Old Master masterpiece or a 10.47-carat Fancy Vivid Blue diamond.
With roughly 295 exhibitors this year, the rare objects for sale at TEFAF rival the collections at the world’s finest museums. However, I’m most excited to see the jewelry exhibitors. So before I hop on my plane tomorrow, I thought I’d share some of the jewelry highlights to look out for at the fair.
Haute Joaillerie
Buccellati
Buccellati, one of the foremost gold and silversmiths in the world today, will feature an extensive range of the Italian firm´s magnificent hand-crafted pieces.
New collections of jewels, one-of-a-kind pieces in silver and gold, and a series of watches will be displayed at the Buccellati booth, partly refurbished for the 2014 edition.
Gianmaria Buccellati
Ducale Bracelet
Tulle bracelet, yellow gold and diamonds
Chopard
Chopard Chameleon Diamond Ring
The world’s largest chameleon diamond
A rare oval-shaped chameleon diamond weighing 31.32 carats
Graff
Graff Diamonds is known for the most fabulous jewels in the world.
As a vertically integrated business, Graff is involved in every stage of the jewellery making process – from the sourcing of each rough stone, through to the cutting, polishing and final setting of each exquisite jewel. Graff’s workshop and design studio are based in London, and every jewellery piece is created by hand from start to finish.
Throughout its rich history, Graff is said to have handled more diamonds of notable rarity and beauty than any other jeweller. Today, after more than five decades at the pinnacle of the luxury jewellery industry Graff continues to push the boundaries of ever-greater innovation and excellence.
An 10.47ct fancy vivid blue internally flawless briolette diamond pendant set in a delicate frame of white diamonds.
Hemmerle
In today’s world where craftsmanship, individuality and authenticity are increasingly rare, Hemmerle is one of the last pillars protecting a unique family heritage of superior craftsmanship. The tradition was established in the 19th Century when the brothers Joseph and Anton Hemmerle were appointed by the Bavarian Court as purveyors of Medals and ornaments. In 1904 Hemmerle opened its doors on the Maximilian Strasse offering traditional designed jewellery of exceptional quality. 1971 bore witness to the re-invention of the Hemmerle brand under the direction of Joseph’s grandson Stefan, a visionary with a sculpture’s eye.
Today the house remains a fourth generation family business with Stefan at the helm his wife, Sylveli, his son Christian and daughter-in-law Yasmin by his side. The entire family is involved with each intricate design and is immersed in every detail to give a unique stamp of personality to every piece that leaves the Hemmerle atelier.
Hemmerle brooch, ‘Chestnut’
Diamonds, obsidian, gold, silver, bronze
Otto Jakob
Otto Jakob (*1951) is a self-taught artist-goldsmith and jeweler with an academic background in art and art history. Due to his lifelong passion for both art and mineralogy, many of his pieces resemble objects from Renaissance Wunderkammer and feature rare minerals and natural curiosities. Otto Jakob works from his atelier in Karlsruhe, Germany. His works are available exclusively at his atelier and at TEFAF.
Otto Jakob Rojas Earrings
Hoop earrings in the shape of twisted prismatic crystals. The facets are filled with ruby micro pavé, while the raspberry-colored spinels accumulate around the corners.
Partially oxidized yellow gold, 88 Burmese spinels, 652 Burmese rubies
Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels was born in Paris’ Place Vendôme in 1906, following Alfred Van Cleef’s marriage to Estelle Arpels in 1895. For over a century, their names have graced some of the finest High Jewelry ever created.
Over the years, the Maison has remained faithful to a highly distinctive style characterized by creativity, refinement, poetry and enchantment. Whether inspired by nature, couture or the imagination, its collections evoke a timeless world of harmony and beauty.
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Van Cleef & Arpels Pavot de Californie Bracelet
White gold, diamonds and garnets, pink gold, pink sapphires, yellow gold, diamonds and yellow sapphires, 22 cushion-cut Mandarin garnets for 128.64 cts.
Engraved number ‘JH001383’
Paris, 2013
Antique Jewelry
A La Vieille Russie
A La Vieille Russie specialises in European and American antique jewellery, gold snuff boxes, and objets de vertu. Goldsmith and jeweller Carl Fabergé was a client, and today we are recognized as international experts on his works. A La Vieille Russie also deals in Russian decorative arts, including silver, porcelain and enamel, as well as Russian paintings and icons. We maintain a strong exhibition schedule, including the seminal 500-piece loan exhibition of Fabergé in 1983. A La Vieille Russie was founded in Kiev, moved to Paris at the time of the Russian Revolution, and ultimately to New York.
Tremblant diamond peony spray brooch, mounted in silver and gold.Diamonds total circa 29 cts – Russia, circa 1870
This jewel symbolizes prosperity, strength, and plenty, and features an ear of wheat and oak leaf that recall the Greater Coat of Arms of the Russian Empire.
Tremblant diamond and peridot dragonfly brooch, mounted in silver and gold – England, circa 1890
A natural pearl and diamond cluster necklace, mounted in silver and gold – England, circa 1890
A. Aardewerk Antiquair, Juwelier b.v.
A. Aardewerk Antiquair.Juwelier is a family-owned company specialising in superb quality antique Dutch silver dating from the 16th century onwards, as well as in antique and period jewellery.
With its traditions firmly rooted in the city of The Hague, the company’s history goes back to the turn of the 20th century. In November 1970 Abraham and his wife Magdie opened the current showrooms in Jan van Nassaustraat in The Hague. Emiel and Esther, who were raised with antiques, joined their father in the business in 1995. They are the fourth generation of antique experts in the family and the directors of the company.
Dhalia
A 18 karat yellow gold, citrine and demantoid garnet flower brooch.
The design by Juliette Moutarde, designer for René Boivin from 1931 to 1970
Paris, 1959
Accompanied by a certificate of authentication from Françoise Cailles dating the brooch to 1959.
Véronique Bamps
A specialist in antique jewellery, Véronique Bamps has devoted herself for more than twenty-five years to European and American jewellery dating from the early 19th century to the 1950s. Based in Monaco, this internationally renowned expert reveals her discoveries, both signed and anonymous, which she selects for their style, originality, striking aesthetic qualities and techniques, at major international antique fairs.
René Boivin
“Tassel Necklace” in 18K yellow gold set with brilliant cut diamonds.
18K yellow gold, brilliant cut diamonds with total +/- 80 cts, signed RENE BOIVIN PARIS, Paris 1945
Provenance: Princess Irene of Greece
Didier Ltd.
Since 2006 Didier Ltd has specialized in jewels designed by leading Modern Masters, painters and sculptors who are recognized internationally for their art, while the fact that they also created jewels often comes as a surprise.
These jewels can be very intimtate expressions of their art, made either as unique pieces, often as personal gifts for family and friends, or produced in small limited editions. They are regarded by their creators as valid expressions of their art, small sculptures that were designed to be worn.
Currently the gallery has over 300 jewels by over 150 different artists that date primarily from the 1940s to 1980s. With this historical perspective, the gallery is uniquely placed to acquire only the finest examples and does not deal in re-issues or pieces produced by artists’ estates. After being neglected for fifty years this overlooked expression of the artists’ oeuvre is now regaining international recognition.
Marisol Escobar
“Self Portrait”, heavy 18ct gold ring of a female face set with ruby eyes, the hair coiled over her ears, designed by Marisol as a self portrait and produced in an edition of 100
Circa 1973
Deborah Elvira
The gallery is situated in a charming little town in the Mediterranean coast, between Barcelona and Valencia. We deal in Spanish and European historic jewellery, from early Medieval to the 18th century, with a special attention to the Spanish Golden Age, the 17th C.
Pendant
Gold filligrée and pearls
Spain, circa 1670
Epoque Fine Jewels
‘EPOQUE FINE JEWELS’ was founded in 1958 by Mrs. Nicole Verschuere and is today one of the leading companies dealing in high quality antique and period jewellery.
The company specialises in the very finest jewels from the 19th and 20th century with a predilection for Art Nouveau and Art Deco.
The collection shows the work of such famous jewellers as Cartier, René Lalique, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron, Mauboussin, Fabergé, Tiffany, etc.
Epoque Fine Jewels is located in the heart of Kortrijk, Belgium and exhibits at all major national and international art events , e.g. ‘TEFAF Maastricht’, ‘Masterpiece, London’, etc.
A ruby, diamond and peridot ‘devant de corsage’.
Designed as an articulated foliate spray surmounted by a bird of paradise. Detaches into multiple brooches.
Circa 1885
Van Gelder Indian Jewellery
The prime specialisation of Van Gelder is traditional Indian jewellery. The collection consists of jewellery set with a large variety of fine gems, pearls and decorated with different enamel techniques.
Together with the participation in different high quality national and international fine art and antiques fairs, there is the possibility to view the collection by appointment.
A pair of gold child bangles, Bal Kadas
With magara (mythical sea creatures) head finials, set with diamonds and rubies and enamelled in the traditional Champlevé technique, with a scroll of red flowers and green leafs on a white ground, with red and green parrots all executed in safe chalwan enamel, the outside with green enamel, kachnar ki patti.
India, Rajasthan, Jaipur, 19th century
Hancocks
Hancocks, founded in 1849 and still family owned, is one of London’s oldest and finest specialist dealers buying and selling rare and collectable jewels.
Lacloche Freres
Art Deco Chinoiserie desk clock, with a rectangular dial of mother-of-pearl, floral and bird decoration enhanced by carved coral, applied rose-cut diamond Arabic chapters and pave-set diamond hands. By LaCloche Freres, Paris c1925, with dial decoration by Vladimir Makovsky
van Kranendonk Duffels
van Kranendonk Duffels has been specialized in the finest European and American antique jewellery for over forty years. Aimée and Fleur, together with their father Jan van Kranendonk Duffels select each piece of their collection with a passion for exceptional quality, craftsmanship, and authenticity.
The collection embraces a unique array of fine and rare pieces of jewellery from the world’s greatest designers dating from the late 19th and first half of the 20th century. Designers like Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Boucheron, Tiffany, Raymond Yard and Oscar Heyman are only a few of the many jewellery houses to be found in the collection of van Kranendonk Duffels.
van Kranendonk Duffels participate in national and international fine art and antiques fairs but also receive by appointment.
A gold bracelet watch with three flowerheads by Cleef & Arpels
Designed as three tubogas bands gathered by three flowerheads, set with blue and yellow sapphires and rubies mounted in 18 carat gold. The watch-face hidden beneath the hinged flowerhead.
Signed and numbered
France, circa 1940
S.J. Phillips Ltd
S.J. Phillips Ltd celebrated their 140th anniversary in 2009 and have an extensive stock of antique and modern jewellery, English and Continental silver, sundry snuff boxes and precious objects. They have what is probably the largest collection of Continental silver available for purchase in the UK, and the largest display of antique jewellery practically anywhere. The company is managed by the Norton family (great-grandsons of the original S.J.) and, together with a loyal and dedicated staff, provide a service which is second to none.
Van Cleef & Arpels
Invisibly set sapphire and diamond leaf brooch
Sapphires, baguette diamonds and gold
1960/70
S.J. Shrubsole
Marjan Sterk Antique Jewellery
Marjan Sterk has been one of the most important dealers in antique jewellery and silver in the Netherlands for many years. Her shop is located at Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 63, in the antiques centre of Amsterdam. In her collection you will find jewellery from around 1800 until 1980 and everything in between: early rose cut diamonds, elegant Art Nouveau, strong Art Deco and swinging designs from the 1940′s, ’50′s and ’60′s. Many pieces bear the signature of one of the important jewellers such as Cartier, Boucheron, Van Cleef et Arpels or Tiffany & Co., but also of great designers such as René Lalique. Besides jewellery, the collection also includes important silver. Marjan’s special focus is on the international Art Deco silver of, for instance, Josef Hoffmann (the Wiener Werkstätte), Georg Jensen (Denmark) and Puiforcat (France).
Two rings
An invisible set sapphire and navette diamond ring
Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris
An invisible set diamond ring
Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris
Wartski
Wartski is a family owned firm of art and antique dealers, specialising in fine jewellery and works by Carl Fabergé. The firm was founded in Llandudno, North Wales in 1865 by Morris Wartski, maternal grandfather of the gallery´s late Chairman A. Kenneth Snowman. The business thrived under the patronage of King Edward VII and a colourful clientele including the Marquis of Anglesey known as the ´dancing Marquis´ with his penchant for emerald set ping-pong shirts, and the nocturnal Mr Blair who questioned the spirits in his walled garden before deciding on a purchase.
The two branches of the firm in Llandudno were augmented by a third in London, opened by Emanuel Snowman, the son in law of Morris Wartski in 1911. Emanuel was the first to venture to Russia in 1925 to purchase from the industrialising Soviet Union treasures confiscated in the years following the revolution of 1917. His trips continued until the outbreak of World War II during which time many seventeenth and eighteenth century objects including the gold chalice designed by Catherine The Great were acquired together with numerous Fabergé pieces. These included no fewer than eleven of the Imperial Easter Eggs, establishing a tradition of dealing in fine works of art which continues to this day.
Van Cleef & Arpels
A two row diamond bracelet
set with rows of baguette cut diamonds punctuated by pentagonal cut stones. New York, c1939.
René Lalique
An Art Nouveau carved opal and engraved glass pendant
mounted in gold, presented in its original gilded leather case. Paris, c1900. Height (pendant): 8.8cm