With the fourth season underway in the U.S., the fascination with Downton Abbey shows no sign of cooling. Season 4 starts at the dawn of the Art Deco era, in 1922, with fantastic period costumes to match. Gone are the constricting corsets of the Belle Epoque, replaced by the loser-fitting, straight-line gowns with flowing sleeves iconic of the decade – a style that forever transformed women’s fashion from then onward.
Downton Abbey Season 4 Cast Photo
What’s more, the jewels worn by Downton Abbey’s ’upstairs’ leading ladies grow ever more splendid. A wonderful mix of Edwardian and early Art Deco pieces adorn the female characters throughout each episode, ranging from more simple jewels during the day to more opulent choices for the evening dinners and parties. With the help of Clive Kandel, 1stdibs Fine Jewelry Curator, and his excellent eye for period jewelry, we have compiled a selection of fabulous estate jewels inspired by Downton Abbey’s superlative period costumes of Season 4.
Lady Mary Crawley, Lady Rose MacClare and Lady Edith Crawley wearing 1920s-style dresses and jewelry in Season 4.
For Lady Mary, who begins the season in deep mourning over the tragic loss of her beloved husband Matthew, jewelry plays second fiddle to her tears and black attire in the premiere episode. After enough time passes, Mary finds the strength within to carry on with fortitude, thanks in part to an opulent house party in the second episode which lifts her spirits. The festive party beckons her, along with the other lady guests, to don a handful of fine frocks and magnificent jewels.
Lady Mary wearing a tiara quite similar to the one she wore on her wedding day.
The Downton Abbey Georgian Diamond Floral Tiara worn by Mary on her wedding day to Matthew Crawley
An Important Georgian diamond tiara, the tiara in the form of a garland spray of leaves and floral clusters, pave-set throughout with old-cut diamonds, weighing an estimated total of 45 carats, cutdown collet-set in silver to a yellow gold mount, convertible to two brooches, gross weight 75.5 grams on frame, circa 1800.
Available at Bentley & Skinner via 1stdibs
According to Clive Kandel, the Bentley & Skinner Georgian tiara is typical of what the Grantham family would have considered a family heirloom, having been a family possession since new. Most tiaras belonging to the aristocracy were sold at auctions during the 1950s through to the 1970s as the English gentry were forced to sell their jewels, as well as other valuable possessions, to satisfy the socialist tax structure and keep up their stately homes.
Lady Mary on her wedding day in Season 2, wearing the Georgian diamond tiara from Bentley & Skinner.
Lady Mary rethinks the Art Deco brooch as a chic hair accessory while donning a matching Art Deco long necklace in the Season 4 Christmas Special episode that aired in the UK in December 2013.
Art Deco Diamond Brooch
This period Art Deco platinum brooch radiates with approximately 15.00 total carats of Old Mine and European-cut diamonds. These sparkling gems are set within the brooches geometric openwork design, which centers around the bezel-set European-cut diamond weighing approximately 4.00 carats. This magnificent period piece comes complete with its original leather case, signed “Casa Weil, Santiago.”
Available at M.S. Rau Antiques via 1stdibs
Extraordinary Art Deco Onyx, Moonstone & Diamond Locket
This one of a kind locket is composed of onyx, the back detailed by a platinum leaf design on top and bottom, the front with a platinum bead-set diamond leaf design on top and bottom and centering 1 round cabochon moonstone in an engraved bezel, extending diagonally from either side is a platinum garland motif plaque with 2 rows bead and bezel-set with diamonds, the inside of the locket is brushed platinum. The locket is suspended from 1 bezel-set round cabochon moonstone and 1 bezel-set old mine-cut diamond, both in pierced galleries, attached to a platinum and diamond-set bale and swivel. The necklace is composed of an original black cord which is separated on either side by linked pierced plaques bead and bezel-set with diamonds and small diamond-set bits. All settings on the locket have millegrain edging. Total diamond weight for the locket and cord is approximately 6.88 carats, the 2 cabochon moonstones weighing approximately 5.20 carats. The cord measures 12 inches long and the locket measures 3 inches long.
Available at Sheila Goldfinger via 1stdibs
Onyx became a very popular color starting at the beginning of the Great War in 1914 due to its suitability for those women in mourning, says Clive Kandel. Over a million men were killed in the First World War.
The lady guests of the Downton Abbey house party fashioned in fabulous gowns and their finest jewelry for the weekend occasion.
Antique 5-Strand Natural Pearl Necklace with Diamond Clasp
5-strand natural pearl choker necklace, the pearls ranging from approximately 2.85mm to 3.60mm, with pierced diamond-set clasp in platinum, circa 1920 (recently, re-strung by Betteridge with the antique diamond clasp). Accompanied by GIA certificate, indicating the pearls are natural with no indication of treatment.
Available at Betteridge
The abrupt departure of her Lady’s maid O’Brien was upsetting for Lady Cora, Countess of Grantham, but didn’t hinder her from wearing her finest jewels to match her latest dinner party dresses during episode two’s weekend house party at Downton Abbey. The American-born countess relies on her optimism and forward-thinking attitude to keep her family’s spirits positive in the wake of all the tragedy from past seasons.
Lady Cora wearing an elegant tiara and Art Deco tassel sautoir at the house party dinner in episode two of season four.
Diamond and Pearl Tassel Necklace
Available at Jeri Cohen via 1stdibs
Tassels, sautoirs, long ropes of pearls and long chandelier earrings were meant to accentuate the new long, soft, languid look of the 1920s fashions.
1.08 Carat Diamond and Natural Pearl Edwardian Twin Ring
A sparkling, ice-white European-cut diamond, weighing 1.08 carats and a lustrous white natural pearl snuggle up together in this exquisitely beautiful Edwardian twin stone ring, delicately crafted in platinum – circa 1915. The diamond and pearl are minimally enhanced with a glistening wave of tiny diamonds and they are both accompanied with GIA certificates stating: F color – VS2 clarity and Natural Saltwater Pearl respectively. A truly rare, ravishing and enduring antique jewel.
Available at Lang Antiques via 1stdibs
Lady Cora and Lord Grantham in Season 4 of Downton Abbey
Tiffany & Co. Platinum, Diamond and Blue Enamel Belle Epoque Pendant Watch with Chain
Belle Epoque pendant watch with chain, with an ivory-colored dial and painted black Arabic numerals, in an elegant guilloche light blue enamel platinum case with rose-cut diamond-set and hand-engraved melee fringe, mounted in platinum, the case with fringe measuring approximately 36mm in diameter, the dial marked Tiffany & Co and Switzerland, suspended from a matching chain necklace with barrel-shaped patterned blue enamel station links on a platinum cable chain, the chain necklace measuring approximately 24″ in length.
Available at Betteridge
Art Deco Oriental Natural Pearl Diamond Chandelier Earrings
An important pair of Art Deco pearl and diamond fringe drop earrings, the two natural saltwater pearls measuring approximately 8 x 12mm and weighing a total of 10.04 carats, accompanied by Gem & Pearl Laboratory certificate, each suspended within a brilliant- and french-cut diamond-set openwork flexible surround, with a fringe of five tassel drops beneath, the diamonds estimated to weigh a total of 2.5 carats, all rub-over set in white, with peg and scroll fittings, circa 1920.
Available at Bentley & Skinner via 1stdibs
An Art Deco diamond bracelet with alternating open and pave diamond rectangular links, in platinum.
Available at Kentshire
Whenever Lady Cora needs to summon one of the servants or her Lady’s maid, she may very likely use a bell push quite similar to this one:
Faberge Enamel, Chalcedony and Gold Bell Push
An important Faberge chalcedony, gold and enamel bell push, enamelled translucent blush and pearl grey with sunburst guilloche background, with circular cabochon-cut blue chalcedony pushpiece set within beaded border, varicolour gold arabesques and paterae, and chased laurel leaves with rosettes at intervals raised upon oval green chalcedony base with four compressed reeded feet, measuring approximately 8 x 5 cm, signed by workmaster Johan Victor Aarne, St. Petersburg, 1899-1908, 56 standard, gross weight 113.7 grams
Available at Bentley & Skinner via 1stdibs
The new, electircally wired bell-push gave scope for jewelers such as Faberge to create elegant electric household tools that replaced the common silver table bell. The Louis XVI-style Faberge bell push would have been one of many used at Downton Abbey, whether laying on a ladies boudoir table, Lord Grantham’s library desk or Lady Mary’s bed side table, says Clive Kandel.
Downton Abbey’s longtime ‘custodian’, Robert Crawley, Earl of Grantham, would probably wear a pair of fine cuff links when dressing formal for dinner, suggest Clive Kandel.
Edwardian Rose Diamond and Onyx Cufflinks
Most beautiful rose diamond and onyx double sided cufflinks, set in platinum and 18K gold. Very fine cut-out work. The epitome of elegance!
Available at Alice Kwartler via 1stdibs
Lady Edith emerges from Lady Mary’s shadow as her romance with “Sketch” editor Michael Gregson blossoms into something serious, which lures her periodically to London where she rubs elbows, and fashions, with its bohemian literati.
Lady Edith Crawley looking as divine as ever awash in glittering diamonds in Season 4.
A Pair of Edwardian Diamond and Platinum Ear Pendants, circa 1910
Photo courtesy of FD Gallery
Early-Art Deco Bracelets and Choker Necklace
A stunning pair of late-Edwardian~early-Art Deco bracelets, dating from the first or second decade of the twentieth century, joins hands to create a remarkable all around choker necklace. Each bracelet features eight bright-white collet-set European-cut diamonds, all sixteen of which total 12.00 carats. These are embellished all around with a sparkling array of smaller old mine-cut diamonds and are joined together with circular rose-cut diamond-set links – bringing the total diamond weight of the bracelets/necklace to 24.00 carats. When resting, these rare, ravishing and regal jewels reside in their original fitted box from D&J Wellby Ltd. – ‘by appointment to the late King George V’ – Garrick St. London. Magnifique.
Available at Lang Antiques via 1stdibs
Lady Edith also adorns her hair with a diamond brooch, taking a styling queue from sister Lady Mary.
Art Deco Diamond Platinum Panel Brooch Pin
This magnificent geometric Antique Deco diamond brooch pin is handcrafted in solid Platinum. It centered with one emerald cut diamonds approx: 1.50ct, G color, VS1 clarity. The brooch displays 169 genuine round diamonds of approx: 9.00ct, graded F-G color, VVS clarity, 16 baguette cut diamonds approx: 1.25ct G color VS1 clarity. This item is in excellent condition!
Available at Dover Jewelry via 1stdibs
Downton Abbey’s Dowager Countess, Violet Crawley, retains her sharp wit, and tongue, but dishes less biting remarks as she settles into her role of the gentle grand mama.
Dowager Countess, Lady Violet, decked in diamonds in Season 4.
Edwardian Platinum, Diamond Black Velvet Choker Necklace
A rare and regal original Belle Époque diamond choker – or ‘dog collar’ – necklace, masterfully handcrafted in platinum – circa 1900. Three intersecting oval wreaths fashioned in flower and leaf motifs are gently curved to closely caress your neck. The center of the wreaths sparkle with seven high-quality European-cut diamonds, plus one at the very bottom, for a total weight of 4.25 carats for the eight larger diamonds (9.00 carats total). This magnificent centerpiece is dramatically displayed against a black velvet ribbon outfitted with a newly made diamond clasp. A truly scarce and splendid Gilded Age jewel. The center measures 4 1/8 inches by 1 1/8 inches (excluding the bottom diamond).
Available at Lang Antiques via 1stdibs
Edwardian Diamond Earrings
A pair of Edwardian diamond earrings comprised of shield-shaped open pendants suspending diamond florets, in platinum. Atw 3.10 cts.
Available at Kentshire via 1stdibs
Lady Violet was of a generation where jewels had far more sentimental value than today, says Clive Kandel. Wearing old jewelry given by long deceased relatives would have meant much to her ladyship.
Lady Violet looking lovely in Season 4
Gorgeous Victorian era Amethyst Brooch Garrard London
Garrard London Amethyst And 15 carat gold Brooch circa 1850
Available at Wayne Smith Jewels via 1stdibs
Victorian Ruby, Diamond, Silver & Gold Rosette Earrings
Each earring is backed in 18 karat gold, topped in silver and centers 1 prong-set round mixed-cut *NON HEAT-TREATED BURMA ruby, surrounded by 8 old European-cut diamonds and suspended from 1 smaller old European-cut diamond, completed by a 14 karat gold wire and lever back. Total ruby weight for the pair is approximately 1.14 carats and .88 carats, total diamond weight for the 18 diamonds is approximately 4.56 carats, color: J-K, clarity: VS2-SI2.
Available at Sheila Goldfinger via 1stdibs
The newest, and youngest, female to join Downton Abbey’s well-heeled ladies is Lady Rose MacClare, Lady Violet’s great-niece. Fresh-faced and rosy-cheeked Lady Rose imbues a breath of fresh air with her youthful spirit and lively vigor, a well-bred ingenue with a keen sense of style.
Lady Rose MacClare wearing a jeweled headband, one of her favorite and most frequent accessories, and a delicate emerald drop necklace.
Platinum and Diamond Belle Epoque Bandeau/Headband by Boucheron, Paris, circa 1910.
Photo courtesy of Stephen Russell
J.E. Caldwell 1920′s Emerald Diamond Tassel Chain Pendant
Large drop emerald pendant with a platinum and diamond mount and chain. By J.E. Caldwell, Philadelphia. Necklace length: 12 in.; Tassel length: 1 7/8 in.
Available at A La Vieille Russie via 1stdibs
Dancing the night away, Lady Rose lights up the room with her vibrant smile and sparkling diamond jewels.
Diamond Drop Earrings
Pair of diamond drop earrings set in platinum, with two pear-shaped diamond drops (approximately 2 cts each pear).
English, circa 1920
Available at A La Vieille Russie
Art Deco Diamond and Seed Pearl Chain Necklace in Platinum
Long and beyond luxurious, this Art Deco diamond and cultured seed pearl chain necklace is a sexy sautoire that could have come right out of the gilded world of Gatsby. The palest platinum forms an incredibly long chain – of rope length – set with petite seed pearls of beautiful luster and augmented by bezel set marquise cut diamonds.
Available at Beladora
While there are still four more episodes left in Season 4 for viewers in the U.S., here is a a sneak peak of the gorgeous costumes from the Season 4 Christmas Special episode that aired in December in the UK. The special episode is centered on Rose’s official coming-out and presentation as a debutante in London, to which the Crawley’s extended family and friends attend in spectacular fashion. So, expect lavish attire and dazzling jewels!
Presentation at the Court of St. James at Buckingham Palace before their majesties the king and queen would have signified the formal entry into society for the Grantham girls, says Clive Kandel. Long trains and the three feathers in the hair were required to be worn in order to be presented to their majesties.