With record-breaking diamonds already checked off the auction list, Sotheby’s has saved the best jewels for last. Jam-packed with extraordinarily rare jewels and several one-of-a-kind creations, Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels sale in New York next month is the perfect ending to a spectacular year at the world-renowned auction house.
Lot 410 – MAGNIFICENT AND RARE EGYPTIAN-REVIVAL FAIENCE AND JEWELED BROOCH, CARTIER, LONDON
For starters, the sale includes five rare Egyptian Revival gem-set faience jewels by Cartier. These incredible pieces are all coveted collectibles for even the most prestigious jewelry collectors. Another notable highlight is the iconic colorful hardstone bracelet by Boucheron that was exhibited at the Exposition Coloniale in Paris in 1931 with a matching necklace.
Lot 398 – ICONIC 18 KARAT GOLD, MALACHITE, PURPURINE AND IVORY BRACELET, BOUCHERON, PARIS
A collection of superb Schlumberger designs are also worthy of note, particularly the ornate floral necklaces two of which depict morning glories and tulips in sparkling gemstones. Jewels from a distinguished family collection, a handful of gorgeous Art Nouveau pieces, a number of dazzling Art Deco jewels, a rare Tiffany & Co. orchid brooch made by Paulding Farnham and many more highlights make this sale a wonderful grand finale to an exciting year of jewelry.
Lot 353 – 18 KARAT GOLD, PLATINUM, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND ‘MORNING GLORY’ NECKLACE, SCHLUMBERGER FOR TIFFANY & CO.
Here the highlights from the sale:
Lot 410 – MAGNIFICENT AND RARE EGYPTIAN-REVIVAL FAIENCE AND JEWELED BROOCH, CARTIER, LONDON
Estimate: $300,000 – $500,000
Lot 410 – MAGNIFICENT AND RARE EGYPTIAN-REVIVAL FAIENCE AND JEWELED BROOCH, CARTIER, LONDON
Designed as an Egyptian fan, or flabellum, centering an ancient green glazed faience bust of the goddess Sekhmet, depicted with a solar disc and a uraeus(cobra) upon her head, set against a lapis lazuli sky twinkling with diamond stars bordered by a black enamel aureole and repeating diamond-set stylized lotus motif, all surmounting a stylized lotus blossom; set in platinum and 18 karat gold with a total of 11 single-cut and 89 old European-cut diamonds; the back of the brooch fitted with an 18 karat gold crook, a symbol of state power in Egypt when held by the pharaohs in conjunction with a flail, placed as the connecting support element for the faience relic, signed Cartier Londres, numbered S.L 7353; circa 1923. With original fitted box stamped Cartier.
Exhibited
French Industrial Exposition, Grand Central Palace, New York, New York, April 22-May 3, 1924.
Literature
The Illustrated London News, January 26, 1924, “The ‘Tutankhamen’ Influence in Modern Jewelry,” which includes this brooch and indicates the range of pieces incorporating ancient fragments produced by Cartier London in the year and a half since the opening of Tutankhamen’s tomb in November 1922.
Cartier: 1900-1939 by Judy Rudoe, pages 136-138.
The Impossible Collection: The 100 Most Important Jewels of the Twentieth Centuryby Vivienne Becker, plate 20.
Catalogue Note
Deriving her name from the ancient Egyptian word ‘sekhem,’ or ‘powerful one,’ Sekhmet was depicted as a lioness. A solar deity, said to be the daughter of the sun god Ra, she was the warrior goddess and the goddess of healing for Upper Egypt, the protector of the pharaohs, and it was believed that her breath created the desert.
This is one of two brooches depicting the top of an Egyptian fan that were made by Cartier London in 1923. The other was sold at Sotheby’s New York Magnificent Jewels auction on December 4, 2007, lot 273.
Lot 406 – RARE AND IMPORTANT 18 KARAT GOLD, PLATINUM, FAIENCE, DIAMOND, COLORED STONE AND ENAMEL ‘SEKHMET’ BROOCH, CARTIER, PARIS
Estimate: $200,000 – $300,000
Lot 406 – RARE AND IMPORTANT 18 KARAT GOLD, PLATINUM, FAIENCE, DIAMOND, COLORED STONE AND ENAMEL ‘SEKHMET’ BROOCH, CARTIER, PARIS
Egyptian goddess Sekhmet brandishing a fan of stylized lotus blossom motifs, highlighted by a diamond-set bracelet and arm band, fitted at the waist with two gold belts of zig-zag patterning set atop a plinth backed by a hemisphere with a sun disk above, all decorated with black enamel highlighted by diamonds and accented by rubies and emeralds, signed Cartier, Paris, numbered 8758, with French assay marks; circa 1925.
Lot 407 – PLATINUM, GOLD, DIAMOND, FAIENCE AND COLORED STONE ‘PYLON’ BROOCH, CARTIER, LONDON
Estimate: $50,000 – $70,000
Lot 407 – PLATINUM, GOLD, DIAMOND, FAIENCE AND COLORED STONE ‘PYLON’ BROOCH, CARTIER, LONDON
Designed as the entryway to an Egyptian temple, the glazed faience plaque framed with round, old European and single-cut diamonds, accented by channel-set and calibré-cut rubies, sapphires, citrines, emeralds, and amethysts, further set with cabochon rubies and onyx segments, the faience plaque backed with gold, with enamel accents, mounted in platinum, signed Cartier, Londres, faintly numbered S.L7358; circa 1923.
Literature
For a complete description and discussion of this piece see Cartier: 1900-1939 by Judy Rudoe, pages 136-137.
An illustration of Lady Abdy wearing the piece suspended from a necklace is featured in American Vogue, December 8, 1928, page 192.
Featured in a Cartier London illustration of ‘The ‘Tutankhamen’ Influence in Modern Jewellery,’ Illustrated London News, January 26, 1924.
Lot 409 – GOLD, PLATINUM, FAIENCE, DIAMOND, JADE, LAPIS, CORAL, IVORY, ONYX AND ENAMEL PENDANT-NECKLACE
Estimate: $30,000 – $50,000
Lot 409 – GOLD, PLATINUM, FAIENCE, DIAMOND, JADE, LAPIS, CORAL, IVORY, ONYX AND ENAMEL PENDANT-NECKLACE
A rectangular faience plaque with intaglios of birds ‘en filade’ in three registers, with a gold frame bordered by blue enamel, reversing to an openwork zig-zag plaque of black enamel, bordered by green, red and black enamel, the sides of the case dotted with black enamel, suspended from a platinum, diamond, lapis, jade and coral stylized lotus blossom, attached to a necklace of ivory, onyx and coral beads highlighted by eight platinum and diamond rondelles, necklace length 28 inches, partially numbered 57351; circa 1925.
Lot 408 – PLATINUM, FAIENCE, CORAL, DIAMOND AND PEARL ‘ISIS’ STICKPIN
Estimate: $15,000 – $20,000
Lot 408 – PLATINUM, FAIENCE, CORAL, DIAMOND AND PEARL ‘ISIS’ STICKPIN
Featuring a faience bust of the Egyptian goddess Isis, her right hand covering her left breast, the left arm truncated at the wrist and covered with rose-cut diamonds; the bust resting on a platinum and rose-cut diamond base atop a trapezoidal coral plaque, bracketed at both ends with rectangular box-shaped coral and pearls, the pin stem numbered S.L 7201; circa 1923.
Catalogue Note
This pin is strikingly similar to the one in a Cartier London illustration titled ‘‘The ‘Tutankhamen’ Influence in Modern Jewellery,” featured in the Illustrated London News, January 26, 1924. This illustration is reproduced and discussed in Cartier 1900-1939 by Judy Rudoe, pages 136-137. Similarly, the pin stem is numbered S.L, as are lots 407 and 410; these letters typically appear on pieces by Cartier which were sold in London.
Lot 398 – ICONIC 18 KARAT GOLD, MALACHITE, PURPURINE AND IVORY BRACELET, BOUCHERON, PARIS
Estimate: $150,000 – $250,000
Lot 398 – ICONIC 18 KARAT GOLD, MALACHITE, PURPURINE AND IVORY BRACELET, BOUCHERON, PARIS
The flexible bracelet of African inspiration, centered by purpurine tablets accented by half-moon-shaped ivory segments, framed by carved malachite panels and rondelles, spaced by polished gold beads, internal circumference approximately 7 inches, signed Boucheron Paris; circa 1931. In original signed and fitted box.
Exhibited
Exhibited at the Exposition Coloniale in Paris, 1931, with a necklace of similar design.
Literature
The Impossible Collection: The 100 Most Important Jewels of the Twentieth Century by Vivienne Becker, plate 20.
Art Deco Jewelry ed. by Laurence Mouillefarine and Évelyne Possémé, pages 100-101.
Boucheron: Four Generations of a World-Renowned Jeweler by Gilles Nérest, pages 112-113.
Lot 419 – MAGNIFICENT PLATINUM, 18 KARAT GOLD, EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING
Estimate: $1,000,000 – $1,500,000
Lot 419 – MAGNIFICENT PLATINUM, 18 KARAT GOLD, EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING
Centering a square emerald-cut emerald weighing 61.35 carats, within a mounting accented by marquise and pear-shaped diamonds weighing approximately 17.00 carats, size 6¾.
Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 57163 stating that the emerald is of Classic Colombian origin, clarity enhancement: minor, type: traditional.
Lot 458 – AN IMPORTANT 18 KARAT GOLD, EMERALD AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, CARTIER, LONDON
Estimate: $600,000 – $800,000
Lot 458 – AN IMPORTANT 18 KARAT GOLD, EMERALD AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, CARTIER, LONDON
The fringe necklace of Indian inspiration, set with 30 oval, cushion, emerald and step-cut emeralds weighing approximately 105.00 carats, accented by round, old European, old mine-cut and pear-shaped diamonds weighing approximately 46.50 carats, internal circumference 13 inches, signed Cartier, London; special order, 1947. With signed and fitted box.
Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 40640 stating that the emeralds are of Colombian origin, clarity enhancement: Insignificant to Faint, type: Canadian Balsam.
Lot 420 – PLATINUM, RUBY AND DIAMOND BRACELET, FRANCE
Estimate: $400,000 – $600,000
Lot 420 – PLATINUM, RUBY AND DIAMOND BRACELET, FRANCE
Designed with a delicate openwork pattern set with numerous old European and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 24.80 carats, accented by three oval-shaped rubies weighing approximately 6.75 carats,length 7¼ inches, numbered 1627, with French assay marks; circa 1930.
Catalogue Note
Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 55892 stating that the rubies are of Classic Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.
Although unsigned, the foliate motifs and quality of the workmanship and stones evoke the work of Van Cleef & Arpels during the Art Deco period. For similar bracelets by Van Cleef & Arpels, see Sotheby’s New York, December 6, 2006, lot 326 or Sotheby’s London, July, 16, 2009, lot 236.
Lot 413 – PAIR OF PLATINUM, EMERALD AND DIAMOND EARRINGS
Estimate: $400,000 – $600,000
Lot 413 – PAIR OF PLATINUM, EMERALD AND DIAMOND EARRINGS
Of flexible design, anchored by two round emeralds weighing 16.97 carats, framed and suspended by round and baguette diamonds weighing approximately 7.90 carats.
Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 13097005 1 and 2 stating that the emeralds are of Colombian origin, with indications of minor clarity enhancement.
Lot 195 – PLATINUM, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND ‘TROMBINO’ RING, BULGARI
Estimate: $400,000 – $600,000
Lot 195 – PLATINUM, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND ‘TROMBINO’ RING, BULGARI
Centered by an oval-shaped sapphire weighing 28.09 carats, the mounting set with round and baguette diamonds weighing approximately 8.35 carats, size 8½, fitted with inner sizing band, signed Bulgari.
Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 55223 stating that the sapphire is of Classic Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. The report also states that, “The unusual combination of size, provenance, absence of treatment and quality factors present in this material contributes favorably to its rarity and desirability.”
For a ring of similar design, see Bulgari: 125 Years of Magnificence, by Amanda Triossi, pages 278 and 279.
Lot 399 – AN ELEGANT PLATINUM AND DIAMOND BROOCH, CARTIER, FRANCE
Estimate: $300,000 – $500,000
Lot 399 – AN ELEGANT PLATINUM AND DIAMOND BROOCH, CARTIER, FRANCE
Suspending an articulated pendant of geometric design, the top centered by an antique cushion-cut diamond weighing approximately 5.30 carats, the top and fringes accented by five pear-shaped diamonds weighing approximately 6.50 carats, further set with numerous old mine and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 22.00 carats, signed Cartier, Made in France, numbered 5904C; circa 1925.
Catalogue Note
For a shoulder brooch and sautoir of similar design, please see Cartier: 1930-1939 by Judy Rudoe, pages 274-275.
Virginia Holben Rogers was born in rural Illinois in 1911 and after attending Millikin University in Decatur, Illinois, courageously moved to Chicago during the depths of the Great Depression. Virginia soon met and married Ward C Rogers, and after his death in 1977, headed the company that he founded; Rogers Radio Communication Services, Inc. The communication and paging company prospered under her leadership, ushering in the early phases of the emerging cellphone business. Her intellect, charm and drive endeared her to customers and business peers alike, with whom she frequently shared the philosophy “A deal is a good deal only when it is good for all concerned”. She sold the business to Metromedia, Inc in 1982 and began the more philanthropic phase of her life.
Ginny, as her friends called her, was an early pioneer of The Committee of 200, a group of prominent businesswomen devoted to fostering opportunities of women in business. She was also extensively involved in many arts, education, handicapped rehabilitation and children’s needs charities in the Chicago area until her death at age 101.
The proceeds from the sale of this brooch will benefit eight prominent charities in Illinois.
Lot 459 – GOLD, EMERALD, DIAMOND AND RUBY BROOCH
Estimate: $200,000 – $300,000
Lot 459 – GOLD, EMERALD, DIAMOND AND RUBY BROOCH
Of Indian inspiration, centering a cushion-cut emerald weighing approximately 41.20 carats, accented by numerous round, baguette, pear-shaped, old European and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 11.55 carats, decorated with two stylized birds, further set with round and hexagon-shaped emeralds and five cabochon rubies, unsigned; circa 1945. With fitted Cartier box.
Catalogue Note
Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 56438 stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, clarity enhancement: insignificant, type: traditional.
Although unsigned, this brooch is reminiscent of Cartier jewels inspired by the Indian aesthetic dating from between 1913 and the late 1940s. Other jewels by Cartier from the same Distinguished Family Collection utilize similar techniques, combining an array of vibrant colors, stones of unusual shapes and intricate metalwork to create pieces that are highly stylized and contemporary in nature, despite being inspired by visual traditions hundreds of years old. After Jacques Cartier’s first voyage to India in 1911, Indian-inspired jewels emerged from the design house as the Maharajas and the Indian elite started to ask for their traditional jewels to be re-set and re-worked to fit the new Parisian styles they so admired.
This brooch is a lovely complement to lots 455 and 458 from the same collection, both in style and technique. Like the two additional lots signed by Cartier, the present brooch capitalizes on the regal power of the emerald. Similar to lot 458, the emerald and diamond necklace by Cartier London, this brooch encases the 41.20 carat Colombian emerald in a delicate but ornate diamond frame. Many of the Cartier jewels of Indian inspiration pull their designs from the flora and fauna of India. One can see intricate floral designs in pieces such as lot 455, the ruby and emerald earclips. In this particular brooch, two exotic birds with their necks elegantly craned hover over and around the emerald-set center.
Lot 382 – PLATINUM, YELLOW DIAMOND, DIAMOND AND SAPPHIRE BRACELET-WATCH
Estimate: $125,000 – $175,000
Lot 382 – PLATINUM, YELLOW DIAMOND, DIAMOND AND SAPPHIRE BRACELET-WATCH
The octagonal dial set with a cut-cornered rectangular portrait-cut Fancy Intense to Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond measuring approximately 13.7 by 9.1 mm, with two emerald-cut sapphires measuring approximately 5.0 by 3.2 mm, the dial and bracelet further set with round, baguette and old European-cut diamonds weighing approximately 6.25 carats, mechanical movement, length 6 1/8 inches, partial signature for Pickslay & Co, the mechanical movement signed Girard-Perragaux.; circa 1930.
Accompanied by GIA report no. 2155492845 stating that the diamond is Fancy Intense to Fancy Vivid Yellow, Natural Color.
Lot 191 – SILVER, GOLD, EMERALD AND DIAMOND BROOCH
Estimate: $100,000 – $150,000
Lot 191 – SILVER, GOLD, EMERALD AND DIAMOND BROOCH
Centered by a square emerald-cut emerald weighing 5.01 carats, framed by old mine and old European-cut diamonds weighing approximately 7.15 carats; circa 1890.
Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 12055287 stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with indications of minor clarity enhancement.
Lot 353 – 18 KARAT GOLD, PLATINUM, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND ‘MORNING GLORY’ NECKLACE, SCHLUMBERGER FOR TIFFANY & CO.
Estimate: $100,000 – $150,000
Lot 353 – 18 KARAT GOLD, PLATINUM, SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND ‘MORNING GLORY’ NECKLACE, SCHLUMBERGER FOR TIFFANY & CO.
The front suspending five fanciful flowerheads set with numerous round sapphires, spaced by sculpted flower buds, set with round diamonds weighing approximately 12.75 carats, gross weight approximately 196 dwts,length 16 inches, signed Tiffany & Co., Schlumberger Studios, scratch number 16572543. With signed and fitted box.
Literature
A necklace of similar design dating from 1955 is illustrated on the cover and interior ofThe Jewels of Jean Schlumberger by Chantal Bizot et al, pages 42-43.
Lot 350 – 18 KARAT GOLD, PLATINUM, AMETHYST, EMERALD AND DIAMOND ‘VIGNE’ NECKLACE, SCHLUMBERGER FOR TIFFANY & CO.
Estimate: $80,000 – $100,000
Lot 350 – 18 KARAT GOLD, PLATINUM, AMETHYST, EMERALD AND DIAMOND ‘VIGNE’ NECKLACE, SCHLUMBERGER FOR TIFFANY & CO.
The entwined meandering vines of graduated design, suspending 11 oval-shaped amethysts measuring approximately 26.1 by 21.0 mm to 17.7 by 14.1 mm, decorated with diamond-set flowers and leaves set with round diamonds weighing approximately 7.75 carats, the leaves accented by cabochon emeralds, length 15 inches, signed Tiffany & Co., Schlumberger; accompanied by an additional link set with an oval-shaped amethyst measuring approximately 18.3 by 13.1 mm, with six cabochon emeralds and round diamonds, length 1¼ inch. With signed and fitted box; the extra link with a signed pouch.
Literature
A necklace of similar design dating from 1960 is illustrated in Bijoux de Jean Schlumberger edited by Franco Maria Ricci, pages 74-75.
Lot 351 – 18 KARAT GOLD, PLATINUM AND DIAMOND ‘TULIP’ NECKLACE, SCHLUMBERGER FOR TIFFANY & CO., FRANCE
Estimate: $75,000 – $100,000
Lot 351 – 18 KARAT GOLD, PLATINUM AND DIAMOND ‘TULIP’ NECKLACE, SCHLUMBERGER FOR TIFFANY & CO., FRANCE
The articulated clusters of textured gold tulips, decorated with diamond-set insects, leaves and gold bows, set with round and pear-shaped diamonds weighing approximately 4.30 carats, gross weight approximately 247 dwts, length 16 inches, signed Tiffany & Co., Schlumberger STD., France, scratch number 1824382. With signed and fitted box.
Literature
A necklace of similar design dating to 1959 is illustrated in The Jewels of Schlumberger, by Chantal Bizot et al, page 34.
Lot 322 – PLATINUM AND DIAMOND ‘SNOWFLAKE’ BROOCH AND EARCLIPS, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
Estimate: $90,000 – $110,000
Lot 322 – PLATINUM AND DIAMOND ‘SNOWFLAKE’ BROOCH AND EARCLIPS, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
The brooch designed as a snowflake with a bombé center, set with numerous round, old European and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 20.10 carats, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered N.Y.7402;with earclips of similar design, set with numerous round and baguette diamonds weighing approximately 9.85 carats, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered N.Y.7401.
Lot 376 – 18 KARAT GOLD, PLATINUM AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, DAVID WEBB
Estimate: $90,000 – $120,000
Lot 376 – 18 KARAT GOLD, PLATINUM AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, DAVID WEBB
The bib-style necklace designed as a meandering flowering vine, decorated with stylized acorns, set with numerous round diamonds weighing approximately 24.50 carats, gross weight approximately 154 dwts,length 17 inches, signed Webb; with two detachable links measuring 1 inch each; also accompanied by three additional links, gross weight approximately 5 dwts, length 2 inches, signed Webb; circa 1973; together with an 18 karat gold tiara fitting, gross weight approximately 38 dwts, with maker’s mark for Carvin French.
Lot 344 – GOLD, ENAMEL AND DIAMOND ORCHID BROOCH, TIFFANY & CO., DESIGNED BY PAULDING FARNHAM
Estimate: $80,000 – $120,000
Lot 344 – GOLD, ENAMEL AND DIAMOND ORCHID BROOCH, TIFFANY & CO., DESIGNED BY PAULDING FARNHAM
Designed as the variety of orchid ‘oncidium varicosum rogersii,’ the petals decorated in vibrant yellow and faint orange enamel, accented by the lip with yellow, ochre and cream-colored enamel bordered by rose-cut diamonds, the descending curled sepals of chartreuse and orange-hued enamel supported by a column of rose-cut diamonds, signed Tiffany & Co., two diamonds missing; circa 1890. With original fitted brown leather and green velvet case signed Tiffany & Co., New York, Paris, London.
Catalogue Note
The orchid offered here is of the variety Oncidium Varicosum Rogersii. This variety was one of those mentioned in the Paris Herald of September 30, 1889 among the twenty-four orchids designed by Paulding Farnham and made by Tiffany & Co. for the Paris Exposition Universelle in 1889. So popular were the orchids that by April 1890 Tiffany’s increased the number of varieties from twenty-four to forty-one. As of the publication in 2006 of the exhibition catalogue Bejewelled by Tiffany, 1837-1859, it is stated on p.202 that “A number of these orchid brooches exist today, seven of which are in the Tiffany & Co. archives along with three enameled flower brooches and a floral lapel watch”.
Tiffany & Co. received the Gold Medal for Jewelry at the Paris Exposition Universelle in 1889 largely due to the success of the enameled orchids which were praised by French and American jewelers and critics alike. The New York Times wrote on March 13, 1889: “Tiffany & Co (has) been studying for two years to bring about a satisfactory result in this direction (enameling) and the outcome thoroughly justifies the labor.” The orchids were also praised in a Jeweler’s Weekly article of June, 1889: “so perfectly copied after nature as to inspire unqualified admiration…such fidelity is manifested as temporary to deceive the observer into a belief that real flowers have been placed in the showcases with the jewelry.”
Paulding Farnham, born in 1859 to a prominent New York family, is first recorded as working for Tiffany’s around 1885. Although the orchids were not the first of his designs, they were the first objects that could be safely attributed to him. Farnham was made artistic director of Tiffany’s entire display of gems in Paris in 1889. Despite the exotic nature of the orchids, he made a special effort to keep Tiffany’s exhibition American in character by using materials and workmen from the United States whenever possible. The orchids, as well as other works by this talented designer are mentioned in an article by Janet Zapata entitled: ‘The rediscovery of Paulding Farnham, Tiffany’s designer extraordinaire, Part 1: Jewelry, from The Magazine Antiques, March 1991.
Lot 314 – 18 KARAT GOLD, PLATINUM, COLORED STONE AND DIAMOND BROOCH, CARTIER, FRANCE
Estimate: $80,000 – $120,000
Lot 314 – 18 KARAT GOLD, PLATINUM, COLORED STONE AND DIAMOND BROOCH, CARTIER, FRANCE
The fanciful flower arrangement set with four carved sapphire leaves accented by 24 cabochon emeralds, within a frame of black and red simulated lacquer, further set with old European and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 2.35 carats, signed Cartier, numbered 1842, with French assay and workshop marks, small portion of simulated lacquer; circa 1930.With signed box.
Lot 156 – PLATINUM, CARVED RUBY AND DIAMOND BRACELET, CARTIER, PARIS
Estimate: $75,000 – $100,000
Lot 156 – PLATINUM, CARVED RUBY AND DIAMOND BRACELET, CARTIER, PARIS
The highly articulated strap set with seven carved rubies depicting flowers measuring approximately 17.5 by 12.8 mm to 14.0 by 10.1 mm, spaced by old European-cut and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 5.20 carats, length 6 7/8 inches, signed Cartier, Paris, Made in France, numbered 03113; circa 1930.
Lot 455 – PAIR OF 18 KARAT GOLD, EMERALD, RUBY AND DIAMOND EARCLIPS, CARTIER, LONDON
Estimate: $75,000 – $100,000
Lot 455 – PAIR OF 18 KARAT GOLD, EMERALD, RUBY AND DIAMOND EARCLIPS, CARTIER, LONDON
The stylized flowerheads centered by two fluted emeralds measuring approximately 12.0 by 11.0 mm and 12.0 by 9.0 mm, framed by 16 oval-shaped ruby beads measuring approximately 7.0 by 5.0 by 3.0 mm, further set with old European-cut diamonds weighing approximately 1.50 carats, signed Cartier London J.C.; circa 1940.
Lot 326 – PAIR OF PLATINUM, INVISIBLY-SET RUBY AND DIAMOND EARCLIPS, ALETTO BROTHERS
Estimate: $75,000 – $100,000
Lot 326 – PAIR OF PLATINUM, INVISIBLY-SET RUBY AND DIAMOND EARCLIPS, ALETTO BROTHERS
Of bombé form, centered by calibré-cut invisibly-set rubies framed by marquise-shaped diamonds weighing 10.48 carats, signed Aletto Bros., numbered 61213.With signed box.
Lot 118 – GOLD, SILVER AND DIAMOND NECKLACE
Estimate: $75,000 – $100,000
Lot 118 – GOLD, SILVER AND DIAMOND NECKLACE
Designed as graduating laurel leaf motifs, set with one old European and one old mine-cut diamond weighing approximately 1.45 and 1.00 carats, respectively, further set with numerous old mine, old European and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 30.50 carats, length 17½ inches, with French import marks; breaks into five sections measuring 5½, 5, 2½, 2½ and 2 inches; a bracelet measuring 7 inches may also be formed; late 19th Century. With fitted box.
Catalogue Note
The laurel leaf style necklace, inspired by the wreaths worn as symbols of victory in Ancient Greece and Rome, was highly fashionable in the last quarter of the nineteenth century. The most well-known examples were executed by Boucheron, appearing in a variety of configurations: as single or double strands, highlighted by pearls or colored stones, and occasionally supporting pendants. The present necklace may be worn as either a necklace or a bracelet and is of very similar construction to those made by the great French firm.
Lot 174 – PLATINUM, 18 KARAT WHITE GOLD AND DIAMOND ‘STAR’ BANGLE-BRACELET, CHANEL
Estimate: $70,000 – $90,000
Lot 174 – PLATINUM, 18 KARAT WHITE GOLD AND DIAMOND ‘STAR’ BANGLE-BRACELET, CHANEL
Designed as two shooting stars set with numerous round diamonds weighing approximately 25.00 carats,internal circumference 6 inches, signed Chanel, numbered 7E441, with French assay marks.
Lot 170 – 18 KARAT GOLD, COLORED DIAMOND AND RUBY SNAKE JEWEL, MICHELE DELLA VALLE
Estimate: $60,000 – $80,000
Lot 170 – 18 KARAT GOLD, COLORED DIAMOND AND RUBY SNAKE JEWEL, MICHELE DELLA VALLE
The highly flexible and easily-coiled snake with diamond-set scales, the head set with a modified pear-shaped yellow diamond weighing 3.50 carats, the body set with numerous round yellow diamonds weighing 32.93 carats and numerous round rubies weighing 8.70 carats, each scale set with an old mine-cut diamond of yellow hue weighing a total of 17.25 carats, with two cabochon ruby eyes, gross weight approximately 144 dwts, length 36 inches, signed della Valle, with maker’s mark.
Lot 154 – PLATINUM, CARVED COLORED STONE AND DIAMOND BRACELET
Estimate: $60,000 – $80,000
Lot 154 – PLATINUM, CARVED COLORED STONE AND DIAMOND BRACELET
The three panels of foliate design centered by fluted emeralds, further set with carved ruby and sapphire leaves, accented by numerous baguette, old European and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 14.80 carats, length 7½ inches; circa 1930.
Catalogue Note
Although unsigned, bracelets of similar design have been found in the archives at Oscar Heyman & Brothers.
The tutti frutti style, incorporating carved colored stones into geometric diamond-set mountings, was made famous by Cartier in the 1920s. Other esteemed French houses—Mauboussin and Van Cleef & Arpels included—followed suit, creating pieces that married the vibrancy and exoticism of the East with contemporary Western jewelry-making techniques. Fewer attempts at the style were made in America, with the brooch offered as lot 152 being the only known example by Tiffany & Co. The present bracelet is of similar rarity and importance.
Lot 189 – 18 KARAT TWO-COLOR GOLD, COLORED STONE, DIAMOND, PEARL AND ENAMEL BROOCH, VERDURA
Estimate: $50,000 – $70,000
Lot 189 – 18 KARAT TWO-COLOR GOLD, COLORED STONE, DIAMOND, PEARL AND ENAMEL BROOCH, VERDURA
The whimsical hot air balloon with a male passenger highlighted in enamel, the balloon set with a cabochon brownish red spinel weighing 157.69 carats accented by round diamonds and cabochon emeralds, the basket decorated with step-cut emeralds and round diamonds, decorated with an articulated anchor and three pearls measuring approximately 4.8 by 4.7 mm to 4.5 by 4.1 mm, with the three pivoting flags set with two triangle-shaped diamonds and one triangle-shaped yellow sapphire, signed Verdura.
Catalogue Note
A hot air balloon brooch of similar design is illustrated in Verdura: The Life and Work of a Master Jeweler by Patricia Corbett, page 46. According to Verdura, this brooch of unique design was only made once by the firm.
Lot 321 – PLATINUM AND ‘TAVEEZ’ DIAMOND CLIQUET, CARTIER
Estimate: $40,000 – $60,000
Lot 321 – PLATINUM AND ‘TAVEEZ’ DIAMOND CLIQUET, CARTIER
Of Indian inspiration, the shield-shaped cliquet brooch of openwork design centering a 19th Century ‘taveez’ diamond briolette weighing 6.11 carats, completed by a fan-shaped terminal, set with round, baguette and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 3.25 carats, signed Cartier, numbered 3760; circa 1925. With signed box.
Catalogue Note
In most cultures, jewels have not only been considered visible symbols of wealth and the ultimate in personal adornment, but have also been imbued with special powers, worn as talismans to ward off bad luck. Similar in shape to that of amulets worn in India regardless of caste, creed or region, the 18th Century diamond gourd-shaped beads covered with tiny facets are known as ‘taveez or amulet-shaped. In Mughal India, multi-strand necklaces would be composed of such beads. Taveez drops often formed a fringe suspended from rows of pearls forming elaborate turban ornaments. Here, a taveez diamond bead is incorporated in an Art Deco Cartier design dated circa 1925.
For additional information see Jewels of the Nizams by Usha R. Bala Krishnan.
Lot 320 – PLATINUM, JADEITE AND DIAMOND BRACELET, JANESICH
Estimate: $40,000 – $60,000
Lot 320 – PLATINUM, JADEITE AND DIAMOND BRACELET, JANESICH
Set with five carved and pierced split jadeite beads, spaced by geometric motifs set with numerous old European and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 7.20 carats, length 7 3/8 inches, signed Janesich, with French assay marks; circa 1930.
Lot 161 – PLATINUM AND DIAMOND BROOCH, DAVID WEBB
Estimate: $40,000 – $60,000
Lot 161 – PLATINUM AND DIAMOND BROOCH, DAVID WEBB
Designed as a rose blossom centering three old European and old mine-cut diamonds weighing 4.63 carats, further set with numerous round, old European and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 22.00 carats, signed David Webb, two diamonds missing; stem detaches for variety of wear; circa 1962.
Lot 387 – PLATINUM AND DIAMOND TEMPLE BROOCH, CARTIER, FRANCE
Estimate: $30,000 – $50,000
<a href="http://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/eca