As the last jewelry sales wrap up for the year next month, Christie’s rounds out the autumn season with its final Magnificent Jewels auction in New York this December. On the heels of the successful Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale, where “The Orange” diamond sold for more than $35.5 million, the New York sale is loaded with several impressive diamonds and rare precious gemstones with a smattering of historically important jewels.
Highlights of the sale are led by an exceptional 52.58-carat D flawless, Type IIa, rectangular-cut diamond (est. $9.5 to $12.5 million), the auction’s highest estimated lot.
Lot 496 – A Diamond Ring
Set with a rectangular-cut diamond, weighing approximately 52.58 carats, flanked on either side by tapered baguette-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum
With report 1132889310 dated 3 October 2013 from the Gemological Institute of America stating that the diamond is D color, Internally Flawless clarity
With report 13090169 dated 22 October 2013 from the Gübelin Gem Lab stating that the diamond is D color, Internally Flawless clarity
Accompanied by a supplemental Appendix from the Gübelin Gem Lab stating that the diamond has been determined to be a Type IIa diamond and displays the outstanding colour and appearance for which the term “Golconda” is so famous
The final four lots of the sale offer a sampling of the extraordinary diamonds of Leviev, one of the world’s most exclusive diamond jewelry brands that specializes in large, rare and colored diamonds. A spectacular suite of diamond jewels includes an impressive wide bracelet (est. $500,000 to $700,000) set with 88 rectangular-cut diamonds, a magnificent 26.72-carat D Flawless cushion-cut diamond ring (est. $4 to $6 million), an important pair of diamond ear pendants (est. $2 to $3 million) with pear-shaped diamond drops weighing 10.31 carats and 9.94 carats suspended from cushion-cut diamond surmounts weighing approximately 2.60 and 2.56 carats, and a superb diamond pendant necklace (est. $2.5 to $3.5 million) featuring a 22.12-carat pear-shaped diamond pendant.
While large diamonds dominate the high estimated jewels, other top lots include the catalogue cover-star, an Art Deco Cartier “Tutti Frutti” bracelet, circa 1930, (est. $300,000 to $500,000) set with a series of oval shaped jade cabochons amid a buffet of carved ruby and sapphire leaves and old European-cut diamonds; a rare Belle Époque sapphire and diamond ring (est. $1.5 to $2.5 million), circa 1910, featuring a stunning 21.27-carat Kashmir sugarloaf cabochon sapphire; and a marvelous antique sapphire and diamond necklace by Biedermann (est. $400,000 to $600,000), circa 1850.
Here are the highlights as well as my favorite pieces from the sale:
Lot 492 – AN ART DECO DIAMOND AND MULTI-GEM ‘TUTTI FRUTTI’ BRACELET, BY CARTIER
Estimate: $300,000 – $500,000
Lot 492 – AN ART DECO DIAMOND AND MULTI-GEM ‘TUTTI FRUTTI’ BRACELET, BY CARTIER
The old European-cut diamond band set with a series of oval shaped jade cabochons with carved ruby and sapphire leaves, enhanced by black onyx vine detail, joined by an old European-cut diamond plaque set with a star sapphire, mounted in platinum, circa 1930, 7 ins. in a Cartier red leather case
Signed Cartier, no. 2818791
With report CS 57543 dated 24 October 2013 from the American Gemological Laboratory stating that there is no gemological evidence of impregnation present with the four jade cabochons
Lot 335 – A RARE BELLE ÉPOQUE SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING
Estimate: $1,500,000 – $2,500,000
Lot 335 – A RARE BELLE ÉPOQUE SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING
Set with an oval-shaped sugarloaf cabochon, weighing approximately 21.27 carats, to the single-cut diamond gallery and shoulders, circa 1910, mounted in platinum
With report CS 57128 dated 25 September 2013 from the American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of this material would be classified as Kashmir. No gemological evidence of heat. Clarity enhancement: None
With report 71400 dated 15 October 2013 from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute stating that the sapphire’s origin is Kashmir. No indications of heating
Lot 473 – AN ANTIQUE SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, BY BIEDERMANN
Estimate: $400,000 – $600,000
Lot 473 – AN ANTIQUE SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, BY BIEDERMANN
Designed as a graduated series of ten cushion-cut sapphire plaques, each with a pendant hook for suspension, set with rose-cut diamonds, within an old mine-cut diamond surround, spaced by detachable old-mine cut diamond links, mounted in silver-topped gold, circa 1850, 8½ ins. (plaques detach and may be worn as a bracelet)
Signed Biedermann
With report CS 57304 dated 8 October 2013 from the American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of these sapphires would be classified as Ceylon (Sri Lanka). No gemological evidence of heat
Lot 182 – AN IMPORTANT SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND PENDANT NECKLACE
Estimate: $800,000 – $1,200,000
Lot 182 – AN IMPORTANT SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND PENDANT NECKLACE
Suspending a cushion-cut sapphire, weighing approximately 91.38 carats, from horizontally-set graduated baguette-cut diamonds, to the baguette-cut diamond neckchain, joined by a circular-cut diamond clasp, mounted in 18k white gold
With report CS 81948 dated 25 September 2013 from the American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is of the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of the sapphire would be classified as Burma (Myanmar). Heat Enhancement: None
With report 71001 dated 8 September 2013 from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute stating that the analysed properties confirm the authenticity of the transparent sapphire. No indications of heating. Origin: Burma (Myanmar). Accompanied by a supplemental letter from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute attesting to the rarity and prestige of the sapphire
Lot 206 – A SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING
Estimate: $725,000 – $925,000
Lot 206 – A SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING
Of bombé design, set with a cushion-cut sapphire, weighing approximately 14.54 carats, within an old European and old mine-cut diamond surround, mounted in platinum
With report CS 42693 dated 30 July 2010 from the American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of this sapphire would be classified as Kashmir. Heat enhancement: None
With report 12055254 dated 11 May 2012 from the Gübelin Gem Lab stating that gemmological testing revealed characteristics consistent with those of sapphires originating from Kashmir. No indications of heating
With report 5151389025 dated 15 April 2013 from the Gemological Institute of America stating that the origin of this sapphire is Kashmir. No indications of heating
Lot 356 – A Pair of Emerald, Diamond and Natural Pearl Ear Pendants
Estimate: $650,000 – $850,000
Lot 356 – A Pair of Emerald, Diamond and Natural Pearl Ear Pendants
Each suspending a pear-shaped emerald, weighing approximately 18.98 and 16.75 carats, from a pearl to the old-mine and cushion-cut diamond surmount, each weighing approximately 2.00 carats, mounted in platinum
With reports 12020009 and 12020010 dated 06 February 2012 from the Gübelin Gem Lab stating that gemmological testing revealed characteristics consistent with those of emeralds originating from Colombia. Indications of minor clarity enhancement
With reports 57739 A and B dated 31 October 2013 from the American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of these emeralds would be classifed as Colombia. Minor clarity enhancement, modern type
With report 2145484890 dated 26 March 2012 from the Gemological Institute of America stating that the old-mine cut diamond, weighing approximately 2.00 carats is G color, VS1 clarity
With report 1142736458 dated 26 June 2012 from the Gemological Institute of America stating that the cushion-cut diamond, weighing approximately 2.00 carats, is G color, VS2 clarity
Lot 198 – A SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, BY DAVID WEBB
Estimate: $120,000 – $180,000
Lot 198 – A SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, BY DAVID WEBB
Set at the front with an oval cabochon sapphire, within a circular and baguette-cut diamond two-tiered surround, to the five-strand sapphire bead neckchain, intersected by two plaques and joined by a clasp of similar design, mounted in platinum and 18k gold, 16 ins., in a David Webb black leather box
Signed Webb for David Webb
With report CS 57102-1 dated 1 October 2013 from the American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is of the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of the four cabochon sapphires would be classified as Ceylon (Sri Lanka). The largest cabochon sapphire and the cabochon sapphire in the clasp: No gemological evidence of heat. Two other cabochon sapphires: Heat
With report CS 57102-2 dated 1 October 2013 from the Americn Gemological Laboratories stating it is the opinion of the Laboratory that numerous polished beads (an excess of 50 tested at random) would be classifed as a combination, with a minority from Ceylon (Sri Lanka) and a majority originating from Burma (Myanmar). A majority of the sapphire beads: No gemological evidence of heat. A minority of the sapphire beads: Heat
Lot 304 – AN ANTIQUE EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING, BY TIFFANY & CO.
Estimate: $100,000 – $150,000
Lot 304 – AN ANTIQUE EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING, BY TIFFANY & CO.
Set with a rectangular-cut emerald, to the single-cut diamond gallery and calibré-cut emerald shoulders, mounted in platinum and gold, circa 1903, inscribed “Edith C. Macy from Editha, April 21st, 1903″
Signed Tiffany & Co.
With report CS 57156 dated 8 October 2013 from the American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of this emerald would be classifed as Classic Colombia. Clarity enhancement: Insignificant to Minor
Lot 325 – A PAIR OF NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB
Estimate: $100,000 – $150,000
Lot 325 – A PAIR OF NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB
Each suspending a detachable drop-shaped natural pearl, measuring approximately 12.57 x 18.37 mm, with a marquise-cut diamond cap, to the surmount set with a natural pearl, measuring approximately 12.09 mm, within a circular-cut diamond and sculpted gold foliate surround, mounted in gold and platinum
Signed Webb for David Webb
With report 71516 dated 30 October 2013 from SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute stating that the analysed properties confirm the authenticity of these four saltwater natural pearls
With report 2155728567 dated 14 October 2013 from the Gemological Institute of America stating that the pearls are natural saltwater pearls. No indications of treatment
Lot 332 – A SET OF DIAMOND AND EMERALD JEWELRY, BY BOUCHERON
Estimate: $75,000 – $120,000
Lot 332 – A SET OF DIAMOND AND EMERALD JEWELRY, BY BOUCHERON
Comprising a necklace, designed as two overlapping circular-cut diamond snakes with marquise-cut emerald eyes; and a pair of ear clips en suite, mounted in 18k white gold, with French assay marks and maker’s marks, necklace 15 ins.
Signed Boucheron, necklace no. P66433; ear clips no. E03022 (2)
Lot 470 – A DIAMOND ‘ESCARGOT’ BROOCH, BY SUZANNNE BELPERRON
Estimate: $60,000 – $80,000
Lot 470 – A DIAMOND ‘ESCARGOT’ BROOCH, BY SUZANNNE BELPERRON
Designed as a series of old European-cut diamond scrolls, centering upon bezel-set old-mine cut diamonds, to the baguette-cut diamond trim, mounted in 18k white gold, with French importation marks and maker’s marks, circa 1932-1940
With maker’s mark of Groené et Darde for Suzanne Belperron
Lot 400 – A RUBY, DIAMOND, EMERALD AND GOLD SAUTOIR, BY DAVID WEBB
Estimate: $40,000 – $60,000
Lot 400 – A RUBY, DIAMOND, EMERALD AND GOLD SAUTOIR, BY DAVID WEBB
Suspending a detachable pendant, centering upon an oval cabochon ruby within a circular-cut diamond surround, to a circular-cut diamond and emerald foliate link, from a neckchain of similarly set links alternating with cabochon rubies and circular-cut diamonds, mounted in 18k gold, 24½ ins., (two segments detach, may be also be worn as two shorter necklaces of 19 and 14 ins.)
Neckchain signed David Webb (3)
Lot 489 – A DIAMOND AND MULTI-GEM CHARM BRACELET
Estimate: $40,000 – $60,000
Lot 489 – A DIAMOND AND MULTI-GEM CHARM BRACELET
Designed as a platinum link bracelet, suspending ten multi-gem charms of various Asian motifs, mounted in platinum and gold, 7 ins.
Lot 471 – A ROCK CRYSTAL AND DIAMOND ‘FEUILLAGE’ BROOCH, BY SUZANNE BELPERRON
Estimate: $35,000 – $50,000
Lot 471 – A ROCK CRYSTAL AND DIAMOND ‘FEUILLAGE’ BROOCH, BY SUZANNE BELPERRON
Of foliate design, the carved rock crystal leaves enhanced with old-mine cut diamonds, to the old European-cut bezel-set diamond cluster detail, mounted in 18k white gold, with French assay mark and maker’s mark, circa 1950
With maker’s mark of Groené et Darde for Suzanne Belperron
Lot 113 – AN ART DECO SEED PEARL AND DIAMOND SAUTOIR, BY RAYMOND YARD
Estimate: $30,000 – $50,000
Lot 113 – AN ART DECO SEED PEARL AND DIAMOND SAUTOIR, BY RAYMOND YARD
Suspending a multi-strand seed pearl tassel, from an old mine-cut diamond cap and a line of pearl and bezel-set diamonds, to a three-strand seed pearl necklace, intersected by bezel-set and old mine-cut diamond openwork plaques, mounted in platinum, circa 1925, 30½ ins.
Signed Yard for Raymond Yard
Lot 52 – A PAIR OF SAPPHIRE AND CITRINE FLOWER BROOCHES, BY TAFFIN
Estimate: $30,000 – $50,000
Lot 52 – A PAIR OF SAPPHIRE AND CITRINE FLOWER BROOCHES, BY TAFFIN
Comprising two flower brooches, each centering upon a cushion-cut sapphire, to the pear-shaped cabochon citrine petals, mounted in platinum
Each signed Taffin, nos. 317 and 318
With report CS 57542 A and B dated 24 October 2013 stating that it is the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of this material would be classified as Ceylon (Sri Lanka). No gemological evidence of heat
Lot 369 – ~A PAIR OF CORAL AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB
Estimate: $30,000 – $50,000
Lot 369 – ~A PAIR OF CORAL AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB
Each suspending a detachable pear-shaped cabochon coral drop, within a graduated circular-cut diamond surround, swinging within a detachable graduated circular and baguette-cut frame, to the sugarloaf cabochon coral surmount, within a circular-cut diamond surround, mounted in platinum, in a David Webb brown suede pouch
Signed Webb for David Webb
Lot 468 – A SET OF CITRINE AND GOLD ‘MELON SLICE’ JEWELRY, BY RENÉ BOIVIN
Estimate: $30,000 – $50,000
Lot 468 – A SET OF CITRINE AND GOLD ‘MELON SLICE’ JEWELRY, BY RENÉ BOIVIN
Comprising two cuff bracelets, each set at the top with rectangular-cut yellow and orange citrines, to the sculpted 18k gold bracelet; and a brooch en suite, mounted in 18k white and yellow gold, with French assay marks, brooch with maker’s mark (partially indistinct), circa 1935, one citrine deficient
Brooch with maker’s mark for René Boivin (partially indistinct) (3)
Lot 369 – A GROUP OF TWO CHALCEDONY AND DIAMOND ‘EDELWEISS’ FLOWER BROOCHES, BY SUZANNE BELPERRON
Estimate: $30,000 – $50,000
Lot 369 – A GROUP OF TWO CHALCEDONY AND DIAMOND ‘EDELWEISS’ FLOWER BROOCHES, BY SUZANNE BELPERRON
Comprising two flower brooches, each centering upon a bezel-set old mine-cut diamond cluster, to the sculpted chalcedony petals, mounted in 18k white gold, circa 1950, with French assay mark and maker’s mark
One with maker’s mark of Groené et Darde for Jean Herz – Suzanne Belperron (partially indistinct)
With certificate of authenticity from Belperron
Lot 490 – AN ART DECO DIAMOND AND ROCK CRYSTAL BANGLE BRACELET, BY CARTIER
Estimate: $25,000 – $35,000
Lot 490 – AN ART DECO DIAMOND AND ROCK CRYSTAL BANGLE BRACELET, BY CARTIER
Designed as a carved rock crystal hinged bangle, set at the top and hinge with openwork old Europan-cut diamond bombé plaques, mounted in platinum, circa 1935, 6½ ins., in a Cartier red leather case
Signed Cartier, France
Lot 411 – A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND GOLD EAR CLIPS, BY JAR
Estimate: $20,000 – $30,000
Lot 411 – A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND GOLD EAR CLIPS, BY JAR
Each single-cut diamond and sculpted 18k gold hinged scroll designed to extend from behind the ear to the front, mounted in 18k gold, with French assay mark and maker’s mark, in a JAR pink leather case
Signed JAR, Paris
Lot 480 – AN ART NOUVEAU GOLD, ENAMEL AND PEARL BROOCH, BY RENÉ LALIQUE
Estimate: $20,000 – $30,000
Lot 480 – AN ART NOUVEAU GOLD, ENAMEL AND PEARL BROOCH, BY RENÉ LALIQUE
The pierced gold plaque, with the sculpted profile of two faces and enamel birds, suspending a baroque pearl, mounted in gold, circa 1900
Signed Lalique for René Lalique
Lot 69 – A PAIR OF CITRINE AND DIAMOND FLOWER EAR PENDANTS, BY RENÉ BOIVIN
Estimate: $15,000 – $20,000
Lot 69 – A PAIR OF CITRINE AND DIAMOND FLOWER EAR PENDANTS, BY RENÉ BOIVIN
Each designed as a flower blossom, extending a circular-cut gradated yellow and orange citrine tassel, to the circular-cut diamond and citrine petals, mounted in 18k gold, with French assay marks and maker’s mark
Signed R. Boivin for René Boivin
Lot 54 – AN ENAMEL AND GEM-SET FROG BROOCH, BY DONALD CLAFLIN, TIFFANY & CO.
Estimate: $12,000 – $18,000
Lot 54 – AN ENAMEL AND GEM-SET FROG BROOCH, BY DONALD CLAFLIN, TIFFANY & CO.
Designed as an enamel frog with a cabochon ruby eye and circular-cut diamond detail, suspending a circular-cut diamond and pear shaped cabochon turquoise from its hand, mounted in platinum and 18k gold
By Donald Claflin, signed Tiffany & Co.
Lot 40 – A PAIR OF JADE, DIAMOND AND GOLD EAR PENDANTS, BY BUCCELLATI
Estimate: $12,000 – $18,000
Lot 40 – A PAIR OF JADE, DIAMOND AND GOLD EAR PENDANTS, BY BUCCELLATI
Each suspending a detachable pendant, set with an articulated carved jade plaque within a collet-set diamond and sculpted 18k gold surround, to the single-cut diamond and gold surmount of foliate design, mounted in 18k white and yellow gold, in a Buccellati gray leather case
Signed Buccellati, Italy
Lot 302 – A RUBY, EMERALD AND DIAMOND DUCK BROOCH, BY CARTIER
Estimate: $12,000 – $18,000
Lot 302 – A RUBY, EMERALD AND DIAMOND DUCK BROOCH, BY CARTIER
Designed as a duck, with carved ruby body, 18k gold and cabochon emerald head to the shield-shaped emerald tail, enhanced with circular-cut diamond detail, mounted in platinum and 18k gold, with French assay marks and maker’s marks
Signed Cartier, Paris, no. 09824
Lot 475 – A LABRADORITE, DIAMOND AND GOLD BIRD BROOCH, BY STERLÉ
Estimate: $10,000 – $15,000
Lot 475 – A LABRADORITE, DIAMOND AND GOLD BIRD BROOCH, BY STERLÉ
Designed as a sculpted labradorite bird, with a circular-cut diamond beak and eye, enhanced by circular-cut diamond and textured 18k gold wings and plumage, circa 1960, with French assay marks and maker’s mark
With maker’s mark for Sterlé and Cie
Lot 425 – A DIAMOND, BLISTER PEARL AND EMERALD GAZELLE BROOCH, BY DAVID WEBB
Estimate: $10,000 – $15,000
Lot 425 – A DIAMOND, BLISTER PEARL AND EMERALD GAZELLE BROOCH, BY DAVID WEBB
Designed as a circular-cut diamond and blister pearl gazelle with a cabochon emerald eye and sculpted 18k gold detail, mounted in platinum and 18k gold
Signed David Webb
Lot 41 – A MALACHITE AND GOLD BRACELET, BY MAUBOUSSIN
Estimate: $10,000 – $15,000
Lot 41 – A MALACHITE AND GOLD BRACELET, BY MAUBOUSSIN
Designed as a series of malachite plaques, trimmed with textured 18k gold, with French assay marks and maker’s mark, mounted in 18k gold, 6¾ ins.
Signed Mauboussin, Paris
Lot 139 – A DIAMOND AND EMERALD HORSE BROOCH, BY CARTIER
Estimate: $8,000 – $12,000
Lot 139 – A DIAMOND AND EMERALD HORSE BROOCH, BY CARTIER
Designed as a circular-cut diamond horse, with circular-cut emerald eyes, mounted in 18k white gold, with French assay marks (partially indistinct) and maker’s mark
Signed Cartier, 849950
Lot 104 – AN ART DECO DIAMOND AND MULTI-GEM BROOCH, BY MAUBOUSSIN
Estimate: $8,000 – $12,000
Lot 104 – AN ART DECO DIAMOND AND MULTI-GEM BROOCH, BY MAUBOUSSIN
Designed as a floral bouquet, extending circular and single-cut diamond leaves with multi-colored pearl buds and calibré-cut emerald and onyx detail, to the moonstone vase, mounted in platinum, circa 1925
Signed Mauboussin, France
Please be sure to check back after the sale as I update each lot with its realized sale price.
All photos (unless otherwise stated), estimates and descriptions courtesy of Christie’s